which mode to use?

[nimitzbenedicto]

My suggestion is before you experiment with any of the Camera Modes – you understand the functionality and uses of ALL the METERING MODES.

It is the TTL meter which CONTROLS the camera when it is in ANY Automatic Mode.
If you use the TTL Meter, then it is this meter which is the key input to YOUR choice of exposure if you choose to use Manual Camera Mode.

I cannot stress this point to much –............... how and when to use the different METERING MODES.

***

– if I am in any Automatic Camera Mode (Av, Tv or P) – then I like the immediate control of being able to override the camera’s choice of only ONE variable – or in the case of P Mode, being able to choose a different combination of Aperture and Shutter Speed and ALSO use Exposure Comp. To change ISO manually is pretty quick to do.

WW

Hi Bill,

If you may share some tips on when to use the different auto-modes. For instance, I read, usually aperture mode is best when shooting portraits and/or when the intent is to control the depth of field. The, shutter-mode when shooting sports/action.

Perhaps, you can expand what result in your photos you're after when you wrote - use of "only one variable..." and " P Mode, being able to choose a different combination of Aperture and Shutter Speed and ALSO use Exposure Comp"

Thanks Bill.

[Mike Buckley]

Someone (I don't remember who) asked about or at least mentioned that they don't know what the purpose of using Auto ISO is. The purpose is to automatically use the lowest possible ISO when shooting handheld (usually without a flash) while also ensuring that all of the other factors are being met. In other words, the ISO is automatically subservient to all of the other pertinent settings.

As an example, when shooting in aperture priority mode, I can set the camera to its lowest ISO. I can turn on the Auto ISO and configure it to shoot at a shutter speed that is no slower than is appropriate for the conditions. I can also configure the Auto ISO to shoot at an ISO that is no higher than I'm comfortable using with respect to noise. When I then set the aperture and the exposure compensation, the camera will automatically shoot at the lowest ISO that is possible when taking into account the other settings (the aperture, the exposure compensation, the shutter speed that would be appropriate when using that particular aperture and exposure compensation, and the minimum shutter speed that is configured in the Auto ISO).

When I'm shooting handheld without a flash, I almost always shoot in aperture priority mode using Auto ISO. That's because my typical style of photography lends to that use.

[Fstop Manalo]

Brother, its up to you. When I started photography, I started HEAD ON to MANUAL. Crazy right? Right now Im laughing at myself why did I start at Manual??? But it wasnt all that bad. I learned because of starting in Manual. I gained a trait to experiment on stuff to find something awesome. You should try it. But remember Shutter and aperture priority should be focused too OK? Just remember, "Experiment, shoot, study, shoot" or ESSS as i like to say. Hope I helped out somehow.

[William W]

. . .If you may share some tips on when to use the different auto-modes. For instance, I read, usually aperture mode is best when shooting portraits and/or when the intent is to control the depth of field. The, shutter-mode when shooting sports/action.

I use Canon DSLRs and I mostly use Manual Mode. A SMALL part of the reason is because I have been using cameras since the ONLY option was Manual: but I stress that is only a SMALL part of the reason.

Certainly my reason is NOT any highbrow etiquette or philosophy suggesting that Manual Mode is ‘superior’.


***


It is dangerous to categorise genres of Photography and then prescribe an all encompassing shooting solution – even making unqualified generalizations about what Camera Mode to use for any particular type of Photography is quite silly and very limiting.


***


As cameras have developed I have maintained a detailed understanding of all the Camera Modes and all the Metering Modes on all of my Cameras.


I choose the Camera Mode to best fit three main criteria:

 #1 To best address the shooting scenario
 #2 For me to maintain maximum control with fewest movements and distractions
 #3 To best suit the Light Metering I am using for the shot(s)


***


On the example of Portraiture:

One of the MAIN reasons I use Manual Mode so often for Portraiture, is because of Criterion #3.

I shoot a lot of Available Light Portraiture and when using the TTL Meter for this genre, I use Spot Metering quite often and manually compute the exposure and I find Manual Mode the quickest for ME to use.

However DO KNOW HOW TO and I COULD use Av Mode for this style of Portraiture and still use Spot Metering, but because I usually, but NOT always use Spot Meter on a Skin Tone - I would also have to ride the Exposure Compensation, if I were using Av mode.

And also I would have to ride the Av, as I changed the Subject Distance to ensure an adequate DoF for each changing camera position.

So rather than ride two “adjustments” - I find it much easier to make a Spot Meter and set the aperture and shutter speed, manually.

If we add ‘Flash as Fill’ to the equation: then all the more reason (for me) NOT to use Av mode, for location Portraiture.


Here are some typical Available Light Portraits where I would find using Av Mode to be quite restrictive and where Spot Metering and Manual Mode (for me) is lightning fast – as if the Camera were in Av Mode, considering the lighting conditions, then the Photographer would surely need to ride the Exp Comp – whatever Metering Mode was being used and also I would want to change the Av to control the DoF as I changed the Subject Distance as I was moving about the room:



“Athlete in Blue Room”



“Actress Backstage”



“Change Room - Before the Race”



“Italian Passion”


***


Regarding - “use Tv Mode for Sporting Events”:

This generalization also is dangerous.

Let’s take an example of Field Sports early in the morning or late in the afternoon where there are large areas of shadow across the ground. What happens inside YOUR camera when the Light Meter calculates that the Lens has run out of Available Aperture?

I know what my cameras do - they blink the aperture at me inside the viewfinder – but the still let me TAKE THE SHOT . . .

Hmm? Have you ever been looking through a viewfinder (your eyes facing into the sun) and the players are in shadow on the field and you’re looking at the viewfinder aperture reading blinking . . very easy to miss that blinking and one can end up with many underexposed images.

So, IMO, using Tv Mode does NOT best address THIS shooting scenario.

And this is quite a common sports scenario where the EV range might be 5 stops between Shadow and Sun.

I would again use Manual Mode and (assuming no cloud or consistent light cloud) I would have TWO preset exposures – one for the Shadow are of the field and one for the Sunny area of the field.

I understand that I COULD use Tv Mode and set the Tv Mode to ALLOW compass for both “Sun” and Shadow” and just allow the camera to adjust the APERTURE:

But consider a 5 STOP difference in EV between the ‘Sun’ and the ‘Shadow’ areas and I am using an F/2.8 lens . . . in ‘Shadow’ I am at F/2.8 and in ‘Sun’ I am at F/16 . . . and F/16 really doesn’t do it for me for sports action (and neither does F/2.8 for many shots either).


+++

. . . expand what result in your photos you're after when you wrote - use of "only one variable..." and " P Mode, being able to choose a different combination of Aperture and Shutter Speed and ALSO use Exposure Comp"

I do not use P Mode because I am after any particular result in my photos – I would choose to use P Mode for the three same reasons:
 #1 To best address the shooting scenario
 #2 For me to maintain maximum control with fewest movements and distractions
 #3 To best suit the Light Metering I am using for the shot(s)

For example, the shot below was taken using P Mode:

EOS5D + EF50F/1.4:
F/10 @ 1/2500S @ ISO1600, HH, CWA, Centre Point AF, AWB, P-Mode (with Program Shift engaged).


Yes, I was driving and this image was made sans viewfinder.

Hence P Mode best addressed - “the shooting scenario” and allowed me “to maintain maximum control with fewest movements and distractions” and in this particular case I chose the Meter Mode to suit the Shooting Scenario – I used Centre Weighted Average.


+++


The above examples have shown why I might use P-Mode and why I might NOT use Av Mode and Tv Mode for Portraiture and Sports respectively . . . but you asked when me about advice as WHEN to use the different auto modes – and my answer to that question is: 'when it best suits YOU'.


For ME, using Av Mode for Portraiture:

Not often but sometimes – as an example – suppose I am in open shade and it a light cloudy day – I need to take seven-zillion Portraits of Prize-winners at a Sports Carnival and I am not using Flash – or I am at Family Picnic and the same lighting conditions and I want to record Candid Portraits of my friend and family – and I know I will not be any tighter than Half Shot – and I will fill the frame with each person: this is one of MY shooting scenario for “Set and Forget” using Av Mode (F/6.3) plus Evaluative Metering (Exposure Compensation +⅓) and shoot away and let the camera do all the calculations as the Clouds move about and the lighting changes plus or minus a bit.

Certainly if using Flash for Portraiture I don't believe I have ever used Av Mode - except when teaching to show how ETTL and Av Mode mode combined can make 'stuff-ups'


***


As for an example, when I would use Tv Mode for Sporting events – very rarely - but I have done so.

One reason which comes to mind is to maintain a safe limit on the slowest possible shutter speed useable to give adequate results when shooting in low light.

This is an example from a long time ago just when I was cutting over to Digital: I did not want to shoot under 1/800s and I choose to possibly have an images UNDERexposed, rather than to go slower than that shutter speed limit, so for the set of these Candid Portraits just after these girls made a National Record and they were posing at the edge of the pool where the lighting is quite poor, I changed to Tv Mode and selected Tv = 1/800s:


“Famous”
EF70 to 200/2.8L (at 200mm): F/2.8 @ 1/800s @ ISO3200 HH, CWA, AWB, Tv Mode


***

I have no wish to argue with Photographers using Tv or Av Mode and who never or rarely use Manual Mode. But I do suggest and expect that those Photographers who do use these two Automatic Modes - and consistently attain excellent technical results - will:

 understand ALL the Metering Modes and select the appropriate Mode to use
 will use Exposure Compensation to suit the changing shooting / lighting scenarios
 if using Av Mode will always be aware of the Tv
 if using Tv Mode will always be aware of the Av
 if using Av Mode, will ride the Av, as they change Perspective (especially for Portraiture).


WW

ALL IMAGES © A.J. GROUP P/L AUS / W.M.W. – 1996~2012

[nimitzbenedicto]

I use Canon DSLRs and I mostly use Manual Mode. A SMALL part of the reason is because I have been using cameras since the ONLY option was Manual: but I stress that is only a SMALL part of the reason.

Certainly my reason is NOT any highbrow etiquette or philosophy suggesting that Manual Mode is ‘superior’.


***


It is dangerous to categorise genres of Photography and then prescribe an all encompassing shooting solution – even making unqualified generalizations about what Camera Mode to use for any particular type of Photography is quite silly and very limiting.


***


As cameras have developed I have maintained a detailed understanding of all the Camera Modes and all the Metering Modes on all of my Cameras.


I choose the Camera Mode to best fit three main criteria:

 #1 To best address the shooting scenario
 #2 For me to maintain maximum control with fewest movements and distractions
 #3 To best suit the Light Metering I am using for the shot(s)


***


On the example of Portraiture:

One of the MAIN reasons I use Manual Mode so often for Portraiture, is because of Criterion #3.

I shoot a lot of Available Light Portraiture and when using the TTL Meter for this genre, I use Spot Metering quite often and manually compute the exposure and I find Manual Mode the quickest for ME to use.

However DO KNOW HOW TO and I COULD use Av Mode for this style of Portraiture and still use Spot Metering, but because I usually, but NOT always use Spot Meter on a Skin Tone - I would also have to ride the Exposure Compensation, if I were using Av mode.

And also I would have to ride the Av, as I changed the Subject Distance to ensure an adequate DoF for each changing camera position.

So rather than ride two “adjustments” - I find it much easier to make a Spot Meter and set the aperture and shutter speed, manually.

If we add ‘Flash as Fill’ to the equation: then all the more reason (for me) NOT to use Av mode, for location Portraiture.


Here are some typical Available Light Portraits where I would find using Av Mode to be quite restrictive and where Spot Metering and Manual Mode (for me) is lightning fast – as if the Camera were in Av Mode, considering the lighting conditions, then the Photographer would surely need to ride the Exp Comp – whatever Metering Mode was being used and also I would want to change the Av to control the DoF as I changed the Subject Distance as I was moving about the room:



“Athlete in Blue Room”



“Actress Backstage”



“Change Room - Before the Race”



“Italian Passion”


***


Regarding - “use Tv Mode for Sporting Events”:

This generalization also is dangerous.

Let’s take an example of Field Sports early in the morning or late in the afternoon where there are large areas of shadow across the ground. What happens inside YOUR camera when the Light Meter calculates that the Lens has run out of Available Aperture?

I know what my cameras do - they blink the aperture at me inside the viewfinder – but the still let me TAKE THE SHOT . . .

Hmm? Have you ever been looking through a viewfinder (your eyes facing into the sun) and the players are in shadow on the field and you’re looking at the viewfinder aperture reading blinking . . very easy to miss that blinking and one can end up with many underexposed images.

So, IMO, using Tv Mode does NOT best address THIS shooting scenario.

And this is quite a common sports scenario where the EV range might be 5 stops between Shadow and Sun.

I would again use Manual Mode and (assuming no cloud or consistent light cloud) I would have TWO preset exposures – one for the Shadow are of the field and one for the Sunny area of the field.

I understand that I COULD use Tv Mode and set the Tv Mode to ALLOW compass for both “Sun” and Shadow” and just allow the camera to adjust the APERTURE:

But consider a 5 STOP difference in EV between the ‘Sun’ and the ‘Shadow’ areas and I am using an F/2.8 lens . . . in ‘Shadow’ I am at F/2.8 and in ‘Sun’ I am at F/16 . . . and F/16 really doesn’t do it for me for sports action (and neither does F/2.8 for many shots either).


+++




I do not use P Mode because I am after any particular result in my photos – I would choose to use P Mode for the three same reasons:
 #1 To best address the shooting scenario
 #2 For me to maintain maximum control with fewest movements and distractions
 #3 To best suit the Light Metering I am using for the shot(s)

For example, the shot below was taken using P Mode:

EOS5D + EF50F/1.4:
F/10 @ 1/2500S @ ISO1600, HH, CWA, Centre Point AF, AWB, P-Mode (with Program Shift engaged).


Yes, I was driving and this image was made sans viewfinder.

Hence P Mode best addressed - “the shooting scenario” and allowed me “to maintain maximum control with fewest movements and distractions” and in this particular case I chose the Meter Mode to suit the Shooting Scenario – I used Centre Weighted Average.


+++


The above examples have shown why I might use P-Mode and why I might NOT use Av Mode and Tv Mode for Portraiture and Sports respectively . . . but you asked when me about advice as WHEN to use the different auto modes – and my answer to that question is: 'when it best suits YOU'.


For ME, using Av Mode for Portraiture:

Not often but sometimes – as an example – suppose I am in open shade and it a light cloudy day – I need to take seven-zillion Portraits of Prize-winners at a Sports Carnival and I am not using Flash – or I am at Family Picnic and the same lighting conditions and I want to record Candid Portraits of my friend and family – and I know I will not be any tighter than Half Shot – and I will fill the frame with each person: this is one of MY shooting scenario for “Set and Forget” using Av Mode (F/6.3) plus Evaluative Metering (Exposure Compensation +⅓) and shoot away and let the camera do all the calculations as the Clouds move about and the lighting changes plus or minus a bit.

Certainly if using Flash for Portraiture I don't believe I have ever used Av Mode - except when teaching to show how ETTL and Av Mode mode combined can make 'stuff-ups'


***


As for an example, when I would use Tv Mode for Sporting events – very rarely - but I have done so.

One reason which comes to mind is to maintain a safe limit on the slowest possible shutter speed useable to give adequate results when shooting in low light.

This is an example from a long time ago just when I was cutting over to Digital: I did not want to shoot under 1/800s and I choose to possibly have an images UNDERexposed, rather than to go slower than that shutter speed limit, so for the set of these Candid Portraits just after these girls made a National Record and they were posing at the edge of the pool where the lighting is quite poor, I changed to Tv Mode and selected Tv = 1/800s:


“Famous”
EF70 to 200/2.8L (at 200mm): F/2.8 @ 1/800s @ ISO3200 HH, CWA, AWB, Tv Mode


***

I have no wish to argue with Photographers using Tv or Av Mode and who never or rarely use Manual Mode. But I do suggest and expect that those Photographers who do use these two Automatic Modes - and consistently attain excellent technical results - will:

 understand ALL the Metering Modes and select the appropriate Mode to use
 will use Exposure Compensation to suit the changing shooting / lighting scenarios
 if using Av Mode will always be aware of the Tv
 if using Tv Mode will always be aware of the Av
 if using Av Mode, will ride the Av, as they change Perspective (especially for Portraiture).


WW

ALL IMAGES © A.J. GROUP P/L AUS / W.M.W. – 1996~2012

Hi Bill,

I have saved this to my "tutorials" folder under your name. I have been reading and re-reading it.
It's so full of helpful ideas and beautiful pictures. Theory und Praxis said Nimzovitz.

Thanks Bill.

[William W]

It is very gracious of you to mention me in the same paragraph as Grand Master Nimzowitsch.
Thank you.

WW