studying how to do headshots/portraits 2013

[nimitzbenedicto]

Victor,

There's palpable improvement over the course of this thread. I may have missed it but I'm surprised no one has included a link to Neil van Niekerk's website. He is a dedicated wedding photographer and generally works with as few flashes and as simply as he can get away with - generally what you are trying to do. His approach is practical to the nth, he addresses both TTL flash and manual flash - whatever works. It's worth a look, I would think.

Hi Hendrik,

Niekerk's site is amazing. Now going over it ......

aiming for those “aha!” moments......

he mentioned.

It's really more than " worth a look."

Thanks !

[nimitzbenedicto]

Shot against outside sunlight. Used fill flash, manual .
55-200mm @92mm. manual mode: f/8. 1/250, ISO200.
pp/viewNX2, gimp, Helicon Filter 5
Nikon D300, YN560II

[nimitzbenedicto]

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55-200mm @55mm. manual mode: f/8. 1/250, ISO200. fill flash @64. manual
pp/viewNX2, gimp, Helicon Filter 5
Nikon D300, YN560II

[nimitzbenedicto]

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55-200mm @165mm. manual mode: f/8. 1/250, ISO200. fill flash @64. manual
pp/viewNX2, gimp, Helicon Filter 5
Nikon D300, YN560II

[nimitzbenedicto]

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55-200mm @165mm. manual mode: f/8. 1/250, ISO200. fill flash @64. manual
pp/viewNX2, gimp, Helicon Filter 5
Nikon D300, YN560II

[jcuknz]

I only have a basic knowledge of portraiture so the only thing I noticed in #1 photo was the gross distortion I would have said came from using too wide a lens and coming in close ... that you say you used a 165 makes it all very strange. It might have been comfortable for the young lady but definitely not a good thing to pose like that.
You seem to have come a long way since then but except for #44 the subjects are all looking at the camera ... then in #44 the interesting parts of the face [ eyes,nose,mouth ] are just a small part of the picture and we are faced with an large and uninteresting cheek.
My tuppence worth

[nimitzbenedicto]

I only have a basic knowledge of portraiture so the only thing I noticed in #1 photo was the gross distortion I would have said came from using too wide a lens and coming in close ... that you say you used a 165 makes it all very strange. It might have been comfortable for the young lady but definitely not a good thing to pose like that.
You seem to have come a long way since then but except for #44 the subjects are all looking at the camera ... then in #44 the interesting parts of the face [ eyes,nose,mouth ] are just a small part of the picture and we are faced with an large and uninteresting cheek.
My tuppence worth

Thank you very much kind Sir.

I will surely keep in mind your comments for future reference.

Have a nice day.

[nimitzbenedicto]

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Nikon D300, 55-200mm @168mm. manual mode: f/8. 1/250, ISO200.
YN560II manual fill flash @64.
pp/viewNX2, gimp, Helicon Filter 5

[nimitzbenedicto]

.


Nikon D300, 55-200mm @55mm. manual mode: f/8. 1/250, ISO200.
YN560II manual fill flash @64.
pp/viewNX2, gimp, Helicon Filter 5

[Brownbear]

Beautiful image...

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55-200mm @165mm. manual mode: f/8. 1/250, ISO200. fill flash @64. manual
pp/viewNX2, gimp, Helicon Filter 5
Nikon D300, YN560II

[jcuknz]

A little tiip I know from way back ... get your subject to lick their lips

[GuyPhoto]

Manfred, I stopped using my Stroboframe when I purchased Gary's Fong's Lightsphere. Seeing your photo on this thread made me realize that I can benefit from both worlds: handle mount flash, and Lightsphere. Due to my lack of organization skills I found that my equipment was logically placed where it was supposed to be. As a result I could not find it at first. I realize that does not make much sense.
I am now going to use both systems when the situation calls for flash.

Terry, nice portrait of the lady - beautiful work.
I consider any flash mounted off the camera's hot shoe as off camera. As a result using a Stroboframe is to me an off camera flash.
Also, with a simple use of an Allen wrench I can adjust the height of the flash on the Stroboframe.
Thanks guys, you made my day.

Bruce

Sunbounce produces another solution that utilizes a bracket. It will appeal to photographers who are accustomed to finding a wall and bouncing the flash, but for one reason or another (colored walls, high or black ceilings, outdoors) cannot find a suitable wall. Instead of moving the flash away from the camera, it places a reflector card off camera. It's called a bounce wall, and their model has a clever ball head that allows one to quickly position the "wall" for best effect. Unfortunately, it's expensive at 99 euros/125 dollars.

I rigged up a presentable (this is more important to clients and potential clients than some realize) DIY version using the Stroboframe and easily available clamps and bolts. You can find details on my blog here.

I am a studio beast, but that is all the more reason that I hate not having all the tools in my arsenal (Gary Fong, Rogue, reflectors, etc.) to mitigate the limitations of on-camera flash. A rogue grid, lightsphere, and DIY bounce wall all fit in a very small space.

It's as important to use your wits as your gear, though. Art Wolfe simply asks someone with a white or black shirt to stand where he needs them.

[davidedric]

Victor - all your photos have disappeared, at least for me !

[GuyPhoto]

Victor - all your photos have disappeared, at least for me !

Me, as well.

[nimitzbenedicto]

So sorry folks.

It's not your set.

Please check later on while we make some minor adjustments.

Meanwhile, we return you to you regular programs.

Thank you for your kind consideration.