Exposure Compensation (camera)

[nimitzbenedicto]

Thanks for answering.

It’s been several months since I used a D300, but from memory, I am reasonably confident that this list is what will happen in your camera for every possible scenario, where you can initiate Exposure Compensation.

If you are keen to know all of the possibilities you should try them and find out for yourself, you cannot break anything by so doing. Also, as mentioned, I am going on memory so if I have made an error, then I apologize in advance and would appreciate same being drawn to my attention.

Some of the extreme scenarios, when one gets close to ‘the limits’, are unlikely, but are still indeed possible and I have seen some happen and the Photographer's concentration to be thrown into a bit of chaos in an unexpected situation.

A typical scenario which causes concern is in when using a Nikon in Aperture Priority Mode with Auto ISO and the camera ignores the Minimum Shutter Speed for Auto ISO which was selected – this can throw the Photographer’s concentration into a tailspin.

Anyway here’s the list for how EC will work on a Nikon D300:

1. In Aperture Priority Explicit: EC will affect the Shutter Speed. If the limit of Shutter Speed is reached, the camera will allow the shutter to be released and the result will not be suggested exposure.

2. In Aperture Priority with Auto ISO: EC will affect the Shutter Speed – until the Minimum Shutter Speed for Auto ISO (if one is set) is reached then EC will affect the ISO. If the Auto ISO Limit is reached, then the camera will ignore the Minimum Shutter Speed for ISO Limit and will allow the shutter to be released at a Shutter Speed slower than that limit which was set. If both the Minimum Shutter Speed for Auto ISO Limit and the Auto ISO Limit are reached the camera will allow the shutter to be released and the result will not be the suggested exposure.

3. In Shutter Priority Explicit: EC will affect the Aperture. If the limit of Aperture is reached, the camera will allow the shutter to be released and the result will not be the suggested exposure.

4. In Shutter Priority with Auto ISO: will affect the Aperture – until the range of Aperture is reached, then it will affect the ISO. If both the Aperture Limit and the Auto ISO Limit are reached the camera will allow the shutter to be released and the result will not be the suggested exposure. In Shutter Priority Mode the Minimum Shutter Speed for Auto ISO, has no effect.

5. In P Mode Explicit: EC will affect either Aperture OR Shutter Speed OR both as per the parameters of Nikon's program. (* see note 1)

6. In P Mode Explicit with Flexible Program engaged: same as 5, above. (*note 1 also applicable)

7. In P Mode with Auto ISO: EC will affect either Aperture OR Shutter Speed (as per 5 above) AND/OR ISO OR a combination and will also be dependent on the Minimum Shutter Speed for Auto ISO, if one set. (*note 1 also applicable)

8. In P Mode with Auto ISO and Flexible Program engaged: same as 7, above (*note 1 also applicable)

9. In Mode Explicit: EC will affect where the “centre position” of the needle in the Exposure Readout in the viewfinder and it will be adjusted either + or – the amount of EC applied. EC has NO affect on shutter speed Aperture or ISO

10. In M Mode with Auto ISO: EC will affect where the Needle is positioned as above in 9. Also, EC WILL affect the ISO and in so doing Exposure Compensation will function UNTIL by making the Exposure Compensation, the ISO reaches the camera's base ISO and then EC attempts to underexpose or the ISO reaches the maximum ISO and EC attempts to overexpose: in these two cases the EC will stop working at those ISO limits and the Shutter will be allowed to be released. In M Mode the Minimum Shutter Speed for Auto ISO has no effect.

***

*Note 1: P Mode in Nikon DSLRs works slightly differently to Canon’s P Mode functionality and it is with Canon that I am more familiar; suffice to say that it is possible/plausible if you use lenses which transfer FL data to your D300, then the Functionality of P Mode (and thus EC in P Mode) will be slightly different to when you use lenses of the same FL, which do not transmit that FL data.

***

To address some of the generalizations made in other comments in this thread: the devil is actually in all the detail.

Knowing what camera which was being used is indeed necessary to make any detailed comment; generalizations would not be very useful to you, if such generalizations don’t apply to your camera . . .

Certainly the list above will be DIFFERENT, if one is using a Canon DSLR.

Moreover, as well as the list above being different for a Canon DSLR’s; as well as P Mode being slightly different for Canon DSLRs than Nikon DSLR's; Canon DSLR’s have a User Functionality “Safety Shift Av/Tv”, which again places another layer on how EC works at points 1,2 ,3 and 4, in the list above.

There are also other different nuances of EC functionalities between other makes and models of cameras.

Generalizations about the details of any functionality can be just as dangerous as making blanket rules regarding what modes, functions, lenses etc., to use for certain shooting scenarios.

It is far better to understand exactly how each individual camera works - especially the one you are using - and then choose which is the best function to use, for the task that you have at hand.

***

On another related but slightly different topic, in so far as P Mode in your Nikon has the availability of Flexible Program: P Mode is no more or less taking creativity and control out of your hands and assigning a preset than you choosing to use either Shutter Priority or Aperture Priority Modes.

P Mode and the functionality thereof, is the most misunderstood and misrepresented of the Camera Modes.

WW

Thanks for the detailed explanation Bill.

(I'll copy this and test it out in my D300. )

[pnodrog]

haha! The yes I want one: the master option button . . .

Meanwhile . . . on the other side of the fence . . . Canon "invents" their AUTO ISO . . . [loud applause from Canonytes] . . .

They think, "WOW! I can now do M Mode and Auto ISO - very cool - I can stop motion and also keep shallow DoF and let Auto ISO handle the little ups and downs - I am king" . . .

OK the playing field today is in a lighting variance one end to the other . . . no problem . . . I'll just put my feet up and ride the EC . . .

!*%$#)@*^ . . . where is the EC ?

EC can't be done with a Canon Camera in the configuration: M Mode and Auto ISO - as all the knobs and buttons are already used up and there's none remaining for EC !


WW

Simple = just in front of you set up a large (about 20cmx 80cm) neutral graduated filter in landscape with the light end to towards the dark end of the field and take your photograph through the appropriate part.

Of course you will need to practice with it if you plan to run up and down the sideline. But for your feet up style it should work a treat. I can send you some #8 wire to help with the construction.

[William W]

Simple = . . .

Haha!

How do you KiWi guys come up with such brilliant practical solutions to the world's biggest issues . . . and yet still are defiantly abject that "chilly bins" and "jandles" are appropriate words to use . . . well at least you appreciate that “Hockey” can be played on grass!


***

On a more serous note . . .

(I'll copy this and test it out in my D300. )

Can you let me know please, if there are any errors, thanks.


WW

[rpcrowe]

Auto & Programme, are both taking creativity and control out of your hands and assigning a preset. Only Manual will let you truly control all the elements.

While that is totally true about Auto mode it is not necessarily true about programmed mode. When using the programmed exposure mode (at least with the Canon DSLR cameras I have used) I have complete control over my aperture and shutter speed (as well as ISO) and can control these as I am shooting. I can also control the total amount of exposure by using plus or minus exposure compensation which is also quite easy.

It is the same when using aperture or shutter speed priority exposure mode, the way to increase/decrease the total amount of exposure is by selecting exposure compensation. Simply changing the shutter speed or aperture in any of these modes will result in a compensatory change in the other parameter. However, using exposure compensation is as easy and as efficient for me as switching shutter speed, aperture or ISO in the manual mode.

IMO, the big difference between manual and any of the three semi-auto modes (P, A, or T in Canon speak) is not necessarily the control I have over the three exposure parameters (aperture, shutter speed and ISO) but, in that once I have selected an exposure, it will not change until I physically change it. I will use manual mode when shooting with studio strobes, when shooting panos, ocasionally when using E-TTL flash, and for some night shots. Most of the other times, I use P, A, or T modes. Note: I have not played with manual exposure mode plus auto ISO since I installed the new firmware in my 7D with which I can select a maximum ISO. I have selected the ISO manually for so long, I tend to be jealous in giving over that control to my camera. I can, however, see the value of auto ISO in certain situations and with certain cameras.

http://www.dpreview.com/articles/020...for-canon-slrs

Of course, the only way in which changing the shutter speed or the aperture alone will modify the exposure is when using manual mode.

A final thought... Auto Exposure Compensation (AEB) is available on most cameras. However, I am only familiar with Canon models in which you can select A. T, or P exposure mode, burst shooting and AEB. This will enable you to fire off three exposures with exposure compensation (1/3 to 2-stops) between each exposure and then stop firing until the next time you press the shutter. AEB was first used by film photographers who shot with Kodachrome film having an extremely narrow exposure latitude (especially the ASA 10 Kodachrome first used). The AEB would ensure a good exposure in quite chancy situations. That was too expensive for most amateur photographers because it used up 3x the amount of film and cost of processing. However for today's digital photographer, it is quite a viable option in chancy exposure situations since there is no cost to digital images after the equipment and memory cards are purchased. The AEB is excellent for shooting images planned for HDR conversion and is far easier and more efficient than shooting the individual shots and changing exposure between the shots.

[Ady]

Just a quick vote for M + auto ISO (with an acceptable upper limit).

I use M + auto ISO quite a bit on commercial shoots where there are (for whatever reason) rapid changes in light levels or shooting in a large area with very uneven lighting. I don't tend to use EC much in these circumstances so the fact it's not available in this shooting mode isn't an issue for me. I do however swap between metering modes quite a bit and will manually dial in a bit of fill flash to suit.

It's not necessarily the best or only approach but it works well for me.

Cheers,
A