A night shot..

[bnnrcn]

C&C appreciated


41 mm,F8,60 sec,ISO 100

[Wavelength]

Another masterpiece from you Binnur. The ash colored tree adds a challenging break to the subject Excellent

[bnnrcn]

Thank you Nandakumar,did you really like it? No one seems to be interested except from you...

Another masterpiece from you Binnur. The ash colored tree adds a challenging break to the subject Excellent

[Kyle]

Excellent shot. The tree really adds depth to the picture. I like the reflections on the water as well.

[bnnrcn]

Thanks for your encouraging comment Kyle

Excellent shot. The tree really adds depth to the picture. I like the reflections on the water as well.

[Wavelength]

Thank you Nandakumar,did you really like it? No one seems to be interested except from you...

There need not always be a proportionate connection between the number of critiques and the quality of images; make sure you too regularly comment on other images

[Shadowman]

Very nice.

[bnnrcn]

Thank you John

[Sergio M.]

I also like the image, Binnur. The only thing I find a little confusing is the water line. It seems to be sloping (could be me). Other than that, I like the lights, colors, and reflections in the glassy water.

Sergio

[Stagecoach]

Hi Binnur,

Nice image. As already mentioned regarding the waterline/sloping I suspect the only way to ensure 'correctness' is to get the reflections vertical.

Interesting to note the star effect of the lights as I was under the impression small apertures were required to achieve this, something I have not experimented with.

Grahame

[FootLoose]

The bright rock in the bottom l/h corner distracts me a bit, Binnur. Could you clone that out and maybe lower the lighting on the lhs of the tree?

[bnnrcn]

Hi Greg I will keep your comment in mind because I don't know how to do it for the time being,I'm learning Digital Photo Professional at the moment.When I get experienced in PP,I can start learning more complicated PP tools such as photoshop.Thank you very much for viewing and commenting.

The bright rock in the bottom l/h corner distracts me a bit, Binnur. Could you clone that out and maybe lower the lighting on the lhs of the tree?

[bnnrcn]

Thank you Sergio and Grahame,I will give it a go to correct the sloping water line ,if it works fine I will post the edited image.

Grahame-for the star effect of lights,although the aperture is f/8 and not very small,my exposure is 60 sec.which is quite long.May be that's why I was able to get the star effect.

[bnnrcn]

Sorry about the spelling mistake Sergio..

Thank you Sergio and Grahame,I will give it a go to correct the sloping water line ,if it works fine I will post the edited image.

Grahame-for the star effect of lights,although the aperture is f/8 and not very small,my exposure is 60 sec.which is qu

ite long.May be that's why I was able to get the star effect.

MOD EDIT - easily fixed

[bnnrcn]

I tried correcting the waterline but I'm afraid it didn't work very well,because by adjusting the waterline ,I lost the trunk of the tree So,I think it is better to leave it as it is,that place is very close to my house,I'm sure I will be posting some more photos of the same place from time to time and I will be more careful while shooting

[rpcrowe]

Binnur...

I like this shot quite a bit! I might add some contrast to the shot which will make the sky darker and give more definition to the shoreline.

Getting a curving shoreline level is sometimes difficult to judge. I enlarged your image as much as I could (until the small file fell apart) and the vertical lines of the buildings appear to be vertical. The minaret towards the center of the image would be a good target to ensure that your shot is level.

Another way to ensure that a shot is level is to use a leveling device for the camera. Some cameras, such as the Canon 7D, have a built in leveling system which is quite handy to use.

In as much as you mentioned that you are fairly new to post processing and that you use the software supplied with the camera so I did not do any complicated PP on this image; simply a global increase in contrast and a tiny reduction in brightness...



If you get more accomplished in PP, you could make some local adjustments in this image; such as reducing the brightness of the lights along the left of the image and increasing brightness a bit for the boat at the end of the pier towards image right...

I have found that over exposure, not under exposure is the greatest problem with night cityscapes like this one. A quick fix while shooting is to have your camera in aperture priority exposure mode and auto exposure bracketing of one stop. Combine this with a 1-stop exposure compensation and you will end up with a series of three shots. One shot at what the meter read, one shop at 1-stop below the meter reading and one shot at 2-stop below what the meter reads.

I can almost guarantee that one of these three shots will have exposure that is correct. Additionally, after you get more experience in PP and have a program such as Photoshop Elements, you can combine the three shots (if you wish) into an HDR image.

Since you are shooting with Canon gear (I deduced this because you are using Digital Photo Professional) you can set your camera for burst mode and then it will fire a burst of three auto exposure compensated shots and stop until the next time you press the shutter button...

I keep my RAW images (they are non destructive) and will often return to them when I get a new editing program or when I learn new techniques for photo editing.

[bnnrcn]

Thank you Richard,with your edit although grey colour and details of the tree have lessened,buildings and wooden piers stand out more.I have read about HDR already but it will take some time for me to apply because I'm new to PP.First I have to learn Digital Photo Professional.When I tried to correct the shoreline it looked really odd to me to make it a horizontal straight line and I lost the tree trunk and I had a strange image,because it is really a curving line.Vertical lines of the buildings are good for leveling,thank you for the advice

Binnur...

I like this shot quite a bit! I might add some contrast to the shot which will make the sky darker and give more definition to the shoreline.

Getting a curving shoreline level is sometimes difficult to judge. I enlarged your image as much as I could (until the small file fell apart) and the vertical lines of the buildings appear to be vertical. The minaret towards the center of the image would be a good target to ensure that your shot is level.

Another way to ensure that a shot is level is to use a leveling device for the camera. Some cameras, such as the Canon 7D, have a built in leveling system which is quite handy to use.

In as much as you mentioned that you are fairly new to post processing and that you use the software supplied with the camera so I did not do any complicated PP on this image; simply a global increase in contrast and a tiny reduction in brightness...



If you get more accomplished in PP, you could make some local adjustments in this image; such as reducing the brightness of the lights along the left of the image and increasing brightness a bit for the boat at the end of the pier towards image right...

I have found that over exposure, not under exposure is the greatest problem with night cityscapes like this one. A quick fix while shooting is to have your camera in aperture priority exposure mode and auto exposure bracketing of one stop. Combine this with a 1-stop exposure compensation and you will end up with a series of three shots. One shot at what the meter read, one shop at 1-stop below the meter reading and one shot at 2-stop below what the meter reads.

I can almost guarantee that one of these three shots will have exposure that is correct. Additionally, after you get more experience in PP and have a program such as Photoshop Elements, you can combine the three shots (if you wish) into an HDR image.

Since you are shooting with Canon gear (I deduced this because you are using Digital Photo Professional) you can set your camera for burst mode and then it will fire a burst of three auto exposure compensated shots and stop until the next time you press the shutter button...

I keep my RAW images (they are non destructive) and will often return to them when I get a new editing program or when I learn new techniques for photo editing.