Izzie asked that I explain the rig I use for bugs, so I am posting pictures and and explanation here for anyone who is interested. There are lots of different ways to do this, but some of the principles are the same regardless.
This is what I use for magnification from somewhat less than 1:1 to 2:1 or so. I most often shoot a bit under 1.5:1, which is how this is set up in the photos. For full-body shots of large bugs, like butterflies and some larger dragonflies, some people simply use a close-focusing telephoto rather than equipment like this. To make these numbers concrete, here is a shot I took with the equipment as shown:
Here is a top shot of the equipment, with the flash on the side. (I sometimes put it more to the top.)
The camera is my old 50D. Even though I own a much newer FF camera, I usually use this crop-sensor camera for work like this, for several reasons. It is lighter and smaller, which is an advantage in doing this kind of work. Shooting with a flash, the inferior high-ISO performance is irrelevant. Ditto AF, because I don't rely on AF for this kind of macro. Finally, it has a higher pixel density than most FF cameras. At minimum working distance, the image size is independent of sensor size. A 10 cm x 4 cm bug will cast a 10 x 4 image on any sensor. Higher pixel density means more pixels on the bug.
The lens is a 100mm macro, with a 38mm extension tube. Among the bug-chasers I know, there are two camps: the 100mm camp and the 150-180mm camp. The latter gives you more working distance, at a higher price and with more weight. I've never used the longer ones. There are lots of alternatives to a macro lens, but if you are serious about this, I would get one. It is the only sizable expense in the entire setup. You don't need IS/ VC for this sort of work, BTW, because of the flash and monopod. Regular IS doesn't help much at macro distances anyway.
The flash is a 430 EX II, not a specialized macro flash. Ring flashes give more even light, but a lot of macro photographers don't use them for this sort of work because the lighting is flat. If you are choosing from regular flashes, more power than this isn't necessary at these distances, and more power would mean more weight, but if you already have something like a 580, it should work just fine.
The flash has to be diffused. This diffuser is a particularly messy version of Brian Valentine's "coke can diffuser" (there are instructions on the web), made from two sliced-up soda cans and a lot of duct tape. (Hint: do not use duct tape to attach the diffuser to the flash, because it leaves a mess. The masking tape I was experimenting with in this picture doesn't work. Gaffer's tape is the best, I think.) Lots of things can be used for the actual diffuser surface. Paper towel works very well. This one is two sheets of baking parchment paper. I later added a third layer of Manfrotto diffusing plastic, which makes it more water resistant.
Here's the flash bracket:
I copied this design from one posted by a much better macro photographer. The bottom is a $7 aluminum bracket from which I knocked off the cold shoe. I put in a screw for the bottom miniball and then attached a second. One hint: If you use a Novoflex, as I did for the bottom, buy one that doesn't have a separate panning control. Under this load, it often comes loose.
Here's the front, with the flash more to the top, to give you an idea of the size of the diffuser.
Finally, I use a monopod. Bugs rarely wait for a tripod to be set up, and hand-holding without support is harder at this magnification than under other conditions.
The monopod has a tilt head (rotates in only one direction), set to rotate top to bottom. I find this essential--it allows you to move the focus up and down if the monopod is not exactly the right height, and there is rarely time to adjust it to just the right height. You can also hold the monopod at odd angles, e.g., at an acute angle braced against your shoe, if there is no time to adjust. This tilt head is a Kirk, which I bought because it is one of the only arca-swiss compatible ones I could find, but you can make do fine with a less expensive (and lighter) one. E.g., I used a Benro for awhile. Any adjustable monopod will do; just decide whether screw locks or flip locks are faster for you.