Learning to Photograph Mountain Scenery - Continued

[Brownbear]

Following are a few images from the Howe Sound, Blackcomb and Whistler areas in British Columbia. There was lots of haze even in the middle of nowhere (likely due to forest fires in BC) which made things challenging but I think it works in images 3 & 4 (layers).

I just purchased some soft grad ND filters (Lee) to help me with the exposures of the sky in scenes like this. Despite the use of a graduated filter (9ND) I still had to darken the sky by lowering the highlights. I didn't lighten the dark mountains and foreground because it just looked odd.

This is the first time I've used filters so please do tell if anything looks odd around the skyline and mountain lines...

These 1st image is a disappointment to me. I tried taking closer in views of just a few select mountains but they were all out of focus. I couldn't grab focus on the mountains with either manual or automatic focus. I'm not sure if focusing is more challenging when using filters or if the scene was just too dark, or if I just need more practice with scenes like this?

f/8 ISO 100 focal length 24 mm SS 25 and 30 seconds

#1



Backcountry Alpine

#2

f/8 ISO 100 SS 60



A different point of view of the scene trying to minimize the bright water...

f/8 ISO 100 SS 160

#3


Feedback that would be helpful...

Focusing... on scenes like the 1st image

Composition... I also have a feeling that I let myself be captured by the scenery at hand and that the images are too big picture, ie; no clear subject.

Truly any general feedback even if it is just to say why one composition may be stronger than another, etc...

Thank you.

[Stagecoach]

Excellent trial of your new GND filters Christina which certainly gives you an insight of what they can achieve in these situations which is of far greater value than some of the text book opinions that have been bounced around here lately. I do not see anything that immediately sticks out as an odd filter transition area.

With regard to the focusing difficulty on occasions I have simply lifted or removed the filter, focus (using BBF), re-compose as necessary and move the filter back to where I want it.

Whilst all the images are good in their own way I feel a bit of a sit back and play with the PP may be beneficial.

No 3 I feel has a fair bit more potential.

Grahame

[Shadowman]

2nd image for me, least amount of additional PP also. Surprised you couldn't get image in focus manually on the first image, did you try using Live View as a last attempt?

[Brownbear]

Hi Grahame,

Thank you for sharing. Truly apppreciated. I should've tried them out before I headed out to such a special place. Unfortunately the backcountry trails will be closed for the season soon so I will not be able to visit this place again until next summer. However I can get up to the first view point by gondola in the winter during the daytime. It is likely very pretty covered in snow.

However, I will practice on nearby mountains this Fall. To date I've managed to avoid BBF... If I slide the filter up, grab focus and hold my finger on the shutter button, and then slide the filter back down, will the focus stay true?

I've managed better landscapes than these so for now I would just like to learn how to photograph such scenes better.

Also thank you for letting me know that you don't see anything odd resulting from the use of a graduated filter. Good to hear.

Excellent trial of your new GND filters Christina which certainly gives you an insight of what they can achieve in these situations which is of far greater value than some of the text book opinions that have been bounced around here lately. I do not see anything that immediately sticks out as an odd filter transition area.

With regard to the focusing difficulty on occasions I have simply lifted or removed the filter, focus (using BBF), re-compose as necessary and move the filter back to where I want it.

Whilst all the images are good in their own way I feel a bit of a sit back and play with the PP may be beneficial.

No 3 I feel has a fair bit more potential.

Grahame

[Brownbear]

Hi John,

Thank you for sharing.

I used Live View earlier in the sunset just to check things out. Then I switched to mirror up and remote release. I think the focus is ok in the 1st image. If you move it around in the lyte box to zoom in on the right hand side without the foreground, ie; just the layers/silhouette of the mountains with the sunset light, that is what I couldn't grab focus on... ie; 1/3 of the way into the scene for maximum dof... Even at the point where the water meets the mountains.

2nd image for me, least amount of additional PP also. Surprised you couldn't get image in focus manually on the first image, did you try using Live View as a last attempt?

[Stagecoach]

To date I've managed to avoid BBF... If I slide the filter up, grab focus and hold my finger on the shutter button, and then slide the filter back down, will the focus stay true?

The answer depends upon how and what you are going to focus on, if using a tripod or not and I suspect some methods may require three hands

If hand holding your method above will work fine for focusing as long as you take account of how your exposure is being controlled.

If using a tripod I use the BBF because I have to take my hands off the camera after focussing to re-compose.

Grahame

[Loose Canon]

Nice work Christina!

Love the god light in #2!

To date I've managed to avoid BBF... If I slide the filter up, grab focus and hold my finger on the shutter button, and then slide the filter back down, will the focus stay true?

Another way to handle this (besides BBF) if you are using auto focus is to lift the filter, grab focus, reset to manual focus and you’re locked in. No fumbling with holding the shutter release.

[Brownbear]

Grahame... Thank you for advising. For these low light shots I use a tripod (1st image)... I will read up on BBF and muster up the courage to try it... Except it seems that Terry may have saved me from BBF...

Terry... Thank you. I also managed a sun star in another image. I will try and capture both again.

Thank you for sharing. I will try just that! Would it not also work with manual focus? I use both depending on my mood.

[Loose Canon]

Would it not also work with manual focus? I use both depending on my mood.

Yes it would.

[ShaneS]

You have shared some nice compositions here Christina and I really can't decide which one I like best

The first thing that came to mind from a PP standpoint is that maybe some selective LCE on the distant parts of each scene would make them pop a bit more. My thinking was that it would reduce the haze just enough so that the images would really sing but I will leave that to others with more experience using LCE to share with both of us whether that is a good idea or not

[Brownbear]

Terry... Thank you!

Shane... Thank you for sharing. I'm not very fond of these and don't feel like these images are worth the effort of PP. I just want to learn from these so I can do better next time. The water is too bright in #2 and #3 (despite the god beams )...

However, if I could reduce the haze maybe I could crop the water out of #3 and perhaps there is some potential. I have some mountain images (close up) but lots of haze... I just remembered that Mike started a haze thread so I will look that up and try it tomorrow.

[Mike Buckley]

if I could reduce the haze maybe I could crop the water out of #3 and perhaps there is some potential.

That's one heck of a lot of haze and it's mostly back lit. That's the worst possible combination. Even if you did reduce it, the small mountain or rock formation immediately behind the trees gets in the way in my mind.

You've done well to use your filters for the first time. Perhaps just move on to making other images and improving your skill.

When the light is changing rapidly, Terry's suggestion about locking in the focus is the way to go.

[pnodrog]

Why repeat the focusing?

With your lens at 24mm and f8 if you set the focus at 20ft everything between 7 1/2ft to infinity will be in focus. Or focus to 12ft to get everything from 6ft to infinity) When working on a tripod with a wide angle lens I often just set the focus between 5m and 8m at f8 or f11 and do not worry about refocusing unless I am including a feature less then about 3m (10ft) away and then because the close feature is not at either the best focus distance from a DoF consideration and is usually outside the autofocus area anyway I manually focus using DoF preview. In low light focusing using live view may be the best solution.

Unless you significantly alter the focal length being used or are including a close object it is surprising how seldom the focus needs adjusting.

The best approach will depend a lot on how clear the lens scales and markings are.

[Polar01]

Christina I work with grads all the time, either with camera mounted on tripod or hand held. If grad is not too dark camera should autofocus unless the subject matter is too dark that it can not get a lock. In that case remove grad, focus, once done turn off autofocus, replace filter, push button. It does not matter any difference if camera is mounted or hand held, same method, just with hand holding do not move feet before pushing button.

Cheers: Allan

[pnodrog]

The first photograph does not deserve to be a disappointment. Due to the atmospheric conditions and low light it is more likely to be a clarity or camera movement softness rather than focus. I am not sure but you may in some cases get better feedback if you pose a few questions and then wait for others reactions before letting us know your feelings about the images. For technical questions the more information you provide the better but for aesthetic feedback you are best waiting for responses without them being influenced by yours. As the photographer and having been there your assessment could be significantly different a normal viewer. For instance you said lightening the foreground looked odd. I have done a quick adjustment with Photoshop and I do not think it looks odd and I have probably done it a bit too boldly. (middle distance rather than foreground)

[deetheturk]

Beautiful set of images Christina, I love #2 well done!

[Stagecoach]

Hi again Christina,

Following on from the discussions regarding focussing difficulties experienced caused by lack of light due to scene and filters fitted here's some more considerations;

If raising the filter to assist beware that if raised too far they can easily be knocked out if not held, this is the case with my Cokins but something to consider with your system. I learnt this lesson one dark morning whilst trying to reach the AF switch at the camera front (luckily I caught it). Not sure about your Lees but my holder is too easily rotated if touched so another reason I resist touching AF switches at camera front or lens.

The above are the specific reasons that caused me to move to BBF of which I found a major help once convinced the focus was not going to change however many shots I took framed the same until I pressed that button again. It also reduces one extra operation of touching the camera/lens AF switch, a minor thing but when wanting to work fast it all helps.

Allan above mentions 'removing' the grad and if this refers to completely removing it off the camera (unclear) you have to have somewhere safe and clean to put it which needs more consideration.

We will all have our preferred ways of tackling these problems and one of the things I found was that working in poor light, often awkward positions and with a need for speed you soon find the most efficient method for yourself.

Grahame

[Shadowman]

Hi John,

Thank you for sharing.

I used Live View earlier in the sunset just to check things out. Then I switched to mirror up and remote release. I think the focus is ok in the 1st image. If you move it around in the lyte box to zoom in on the right hand side without the foreground, ie; just the layers/silhouette of the mountains with the sunset light, that is what I couldn't grab focus on... ie; 1/3 of the way into the scene for maximum dof... Even at the point where the water meets the mountains.

I can see where your dilemma begins to present itself, only option would be to focus on the land mass to the left, acquire focus, then recompose.

[Shadowman]

Hi John,

Thank you for sharing.

I used Live View earlier in the sunset just to check things out. Then I switched to mirror up and remote release. I think the focus is ok in the 1st image. If you move it around in the lyte box to zoom in on the right hand side without the foreground, ie; just the layers/silhouette of the mountains with the sunset light, that is what I couldn't grab focus on... ie; 1/3 of the way into the scene for maximum dof... Even at the point where the water meets the mountains.

I can see where your dilemma begins to present itself, only option would be to focus on the land mass to the left, acquire focus, then recompose.

[Polar01]

Christina, Grahame makes a comment about if removing the grad completely than you need someplace to put it, it is in my hand. As I use the Lee system, often I just remove the holder with the filters in it, auto-focus then switch auto off, put holder back on all the filters are still in their original places. Easy.

Cheers: Allan