Nice Portrait Lens for Nikon DX

[realdereal]

Unfortunately my kids wanted me to buy them a house so I sold my 70-200mm 2.8, 17-50mm 2.8, and back up camera to help with the down payment. Now I'm wondering what would be a nice portrait lens for my Nikon D7100? I will be shooting primarily portraits in a natural light studio and also outdoors this next year.

Any recommendations will be appreciated, thank you.
(I do still have a Nikon 50mm f/1.8, Nikon 55-200mm f/4-5.6, Tamron 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3

Not worried so much about what I already have if I can replace with a nice portrait lens I can get rid of a few.
Just interested in a nice portrait lens recommendation : )

Afterthought:
Ooh! And would it be a prime or variable/zoom lens you would be recommending?

[Shadowman]

The Nikon 85mm f1.8 makes a good portrait lens.

[Brev00]

It might depend on what focal length(s) you prefer. The 85 is considered a classic but it is designed for full frame and might be long for your indoor applications (might not). I happen to like my Sigma 17-70 as a zoom that covers the focal lengths I like to use for people. I like 70mm quite a bit for individuals but often like a bit wider for more full body shots. Then, there are environmental portraits and group portraits which both call on the even wider focal lengths. The bokeh might not be that of a prime but I like it fine. Some like the Sigma 50-150 which is a fixed 2.8 and covers some nice focal lengths, too. Many seem to go for the 70-200 type that can be very costly and a bit tight for indoor shooting. So, think about the focal lengths you like and go from there. You can take your 28-300 and fix it to one focal length at a time to explore.

[JR1]

I wouldn't use an 85mm on a crop frame Nikon, I do have the D7100 and D7000 and use my 28-300,

I think that 85mm is a hang over from film days like the 50mm, I would not buy primes now as all you need is in a zoom these days.

Really, is there a "portrait"" lens any more any more than a specific landscape lens.

I use my 14-24 Nikkor for portrait, and Sigma 15mm fisheye, why not a 300mm for great perspective !

Personally I use my Nikkor 70-200 a lot (though I mainly shoot FF)

[realdereal]

I'm almost tempted to switch to full frame but I'm just not that sure what a difference it will make between my D7100 and the D750?

[Dave Humphries]

Hi Kristen,

I'm almost tempted to switch to full frame but I'm just not that sure what a difference it will make between my D7100 and the D750?

Aren't all your remaining lenses DX only?

If you had any that worked (properly - i.e. not in DX mode) on a FF body, their angle of view would be wider than you're used to and you 'gain' about a stop less DoF for any given aperture (again, compared to what you're used to).

On your D7100.
As Jeremy has demonstrated, at a longer focal length, f/5.6 (or so) is sufficient, so you have that covered (with two lenses).

To my mind, the greater practical benefit of a wider aperture (faster glass) to get the subject only sharp (for a portrait), would be at shorter focal lengths, you can already reach f/1.8 at 50mm, but only f/3.5 at 28mm.


I recently shot at a wedding reception and found that for groups, or even full body portraits (if that isn't an oxymoron), my 50mm was too tight, so I have subsequently bought, but not yet 'used in anger', the (DX) 35mm f/1.8 - this has the benefit of being cheap, handy if you're on a budget (as suggested when the thread opens).


OTOH, if you're dreaming of a D750 and the consequent replacement of most/all of your lenses, perhaps that's no longer an issue?


The 35mm at f/1.8 would give you about 2 stops less DoF (e.g. more background blurring) compared to your 28-300 lens at 35mm at f/3.5 - f/4, which is probably worth having.

Of course, if you switch the D7100 to the 1.3x (or 18 x 12) mode, you can 'zoom' a bit (at 15 MP, instead of 24 MP) and 'lengthen' either lens a bit very quickly.

HTH, Dave

[William W]

. . . what would be a nice portrait lens for my Nikon D7100? I will be shooting primarily portraits in a natural light studio and also outdoors this next year.

Q:

1. How big is the studio? (i.e. all dimensions of room please and then include max shooting distance length)

2. What types of Portraits? (i.e. Singles; Couples; Family groups including the kids and dog, Corporate Headshots only; mixed bag, etc . . .)

WW

[JR1]

I'm almost tempted to switch to full frame but I'm just not that sure what a difference it will make between my D7100 and the D750?

Don't bother if you don't need it, Full Frame is NOT I repeat NOT an upgrade.

It is like comparing an estate car with a sports car with a motorbike, all have their OWN uses, I shoot D7100 for sports with a long lens because I want the extra reach the crop offers

[JR1]

Oh and here is a lesson for EVERYONE, don't buy CROP lenses, ever, if you ever go FF you have to buy again, I never have and only bought once.

[Polar01]

The reply #9 by Jeremy is so, so wrong. Now Jeremy is a long distance sports shooter that is sports he shoots are those that you just can not get close to, ie: speed boat racing, jet skiing, motor cross, etc., so using a FF lens on a crop camera as he does means he can get that extra reach that he requires.
However what if you want wide, well if you were to follow his advice the best you could do would be the 14-24mm f2.8 which on a crop you give you equal to a 21-36mm. That is not that wide, however if you were to use a 10-24mm DX lens you would not be equal to a 15-36mm. I will tell you that there is a big difference between the field of view of 15mm compared to 21mm.
The lens is a tool to use, you need what you need, if that means a DX lens than so be it, so those that make statements like the one Jeremy did, well that works for them it does not work for me in some cases and it may not work for you.
If you were wondering I have the following 10-20mm Sigma DX, 16-85mm DX, 16-35mm FF, 50mm FF, 70-300mm FF, 80-400mm FF, and a 105mm FF with a D7000, and a D600 I got the tools that I needed at the time.

Cheers: Allan

[realdereal]

Thanks. I do believe what Jeremy was saying is true for my situation though. Go to full frame when you want it and need it and not until you understand why you need it : )
And moving forward I do believe I will be looking at FX lenses as I do want to move into full frame in the future.

What are your thoughts on the Sigma 24-105mm f/4 as a portrait lens? Wondering if the f/4 will give me what I am looking for now that I am truly missing my 17-55mm f/2.8.

[Polar01]

Kristen: as for the 24-105mm I really can not say, I usually shoot landscapes and architecture thus the ultra wide angle. I also started with a cropped camera D70>D90>D7000 before moving to the D600, the D7000 was stolen and it had the 16-85mm DX lens that I just loved. Yes the FF will give you a shallower DOF compared to the DX camera at the same f-stop, but remember it is the distance from the background to the subject that is more important. The greater the distance from the subject to the background is in many ways more important than a shallow depth of field. That is why William was asking those questions which are very important to form a correct answer.

Cheers: Allan

[JR1]

The reply #9 by Jeremy is so, so wrong. Now Jeremy is a long distance sports shooter that is sports he shoots are those that you just can not get close to, ie: speed boat racing, jet skiing, motor cross, etc., so using a FF lens on a crop camera as he does means he can get that extra reach that he requires.
However what if you want wide, well if you were to follow his advice the best you could do would be the 14-24mm f2.8 which on a crop you give you equal to a 21-36mm. That is not that wide, however if you were to use a 10-24mm DX lens you would not be equal to a 15-36mm. I will tell you that there is a big difference between the field of view of 15mm compared to 21mm.
The lens is a tool to use, you need what you need, if that means a DX lens than so be it, so those that make statements like the one Jeremy did, well that works for them it does not work for me in some cases and it may not work for you.
If you were wondering I have the following 10-20mm Sigma DX, 16-85mm DX, 16-35mm FF, 50mm FF, 70-300mm FF, 80-400mm FF, and a 105mm FF with a D7000, and a D600 I got the tools that I needed at the time.

Cheers: Allan

The person asked about "portrait" lenses, I use anything from a 14-24 Nikkor to 150-500 Sigma for portraits, there is no "portrait" lens.

I said nothing about "wide" as this is not what was asked !!!!!!!!

For info I also have as I sated the 15mm Siggy fisheye.

NONE are crop sensor lenses remember FF lenses work on crop Crop sensor lenses do NOT work on FF cameras. I suggest anyone buying a crop sensor camera buy FF lenses the images will not alter one iota, just what you can use the lenses on body wise later

[JR1]

If you already have this

Tamron 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3

Then you have the Sigma 24-105mm f/4 covered as at that length you have f3.5/4 anyway, and 4mm at the short end believe me is nothing

[JR1]

The reply #9 by Jeremy is so, so wrong. Now Jeremy is a long distance sports shooter

Cheers: Allan

Hmmm

I better not shoot any more weddings then

[William W]

. . . remember FF lenses work on crop Crop sensor lenses do NOT work on FF cameras. I suggest anyone buying a crop sensor camera buy FF lenses the images will not alter one iota, just what you can use the lenses on body wise later

That depends how one defines a lens “working” because, many lenses designed for use with “crop bodies” do “work” on “FF” bodies but with an optical vignette at some focal lengths.

***

. . .If you already have this Tamron 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3 Then you have the Sigma 24-105mm f/4 covered as at that length you have f3.5/4 anyway, and 4mm at the short end believe me is nothing

That is poor advice.

An extra 4 millimetres of Focal Width, from 28mm to 24mm, might be very important for shooting portraiture, inside a studio, with an APS-C Camera.

This is one of the two shooting scenarios that the OP is specifically asking about.

WW

[JR1]

That depends how one defines a lens “working” because, many lenses designed for use with “crop bodies” do “work” on “FF” bodies but with an optical vignette at some focal lengths.

***



That is poor advice.

An extra 4 millimetres of Focal Width, from 28mm to 24mm, might be very important for shooting portraiture, inside a studio, with an APS-C Camera.

This is one of the two shooting scenarios that the OP is specifically asking about.

WW

I stated that if you read it. FF lenses will work on crop not the other way round,

4mm is virtually nothing. In fact not enough to notice in reality when it comes to shooting, yes there is a difference but not great, poor advice, hmmmm, ALL advice is personal and that is my personal comments NOT ADVICE, a "Comment"

And NOT asked in the first question which is what MY reply was to.

[Black Pearl]

I stated that if you read it. FF lenses will work on crop not the other way round,

Not true:

Crop (DX) lenses will work on a Full Frame (FX) Nikon body as it simply switches into DX mode and crops the viewfinder to show the new framing. Some DX lenses even have a large enough imaging circle to use in FX mode - you simple manually switch the body to force it to use FX.

Not saying this is the best solution but they do work.

[Polar01]

Jeremy again you are right but also wrong with your statements. Yes Kristen was asking about lens for portraits and as you state in your post #13 "The person asked about "portrait" lenses, I use anything from a 14-24 Nikkor to 150-500 Sigma for portraits, there is no "portrait" lens." correct I agree. What I did not agree with was your statement from Post #9 "Oh and here is a lesson for EVERYONE, don't buy CROP lenses, ever, if you ever go FF you have to buy again, I never have and only bought once." That is what was wrong example I used was ultra wide DX lens is better on a DX camera than a FF ultra wide on a DX as the DX will give you a wider field of view. Remember it was you who stated "lesson for EVERYONE", which was incorrect.
"remember FF lenses work on crop Crop sensor lenses do NOT work on FF cameras." from your post #13 is wrong as I can use a DX lens on my D600 and there are others Nikons camera at it will work on also. Once the lens is attached to the camera, it (camera) knows that it is a DX lens and will adjust the view area.

Cheers: Allan

[Polar01]

Jeremy as to you post #15, I have not seen any wedding posted by you here at CIC, only mainly speed boat racing and jet skiing. I did not mean you do not shoot wedding or other events, as I have no knowledge otherwise only what you have posted. Your work with the high speed boats and jet skis is very good, as you say that you also shoot weddings I can only assume that they are just as good.

Cheers: Allan