Yongnuo Flash with Nikon Camera

[judg]

Hell, My name is Pat and I have a question re the use of Yongnuo Flash YN565EX with Nikon D610. I have taken landscape shots for several years and am trying some flash photography. I bought an excellent book "Understanding Flash Photography by Bryan Paterson". However, the book is based on Nikon flash SB900 where the aperture can be dialed in and the distance to subject is shown on the flash. I cannot see a similar way of measuring "Distance to Subject" other than using the guide number chart. Any suggestions are welcome.

[Manfred M]

Welcome to CiC, Pat.

I did a quick read up on the flash you purchased and it looks like it has many of the same features of the SB-900 (I own one). It looks like it does integrate with the Nikon CLS system, which means it can be controlled by your camera's metering system and does communicate with your camera's control system. It does not seem to support high speed synch or some other more specialized features that you get with the SB-900.

I can't comment on your unit as I've never used one. I would suggest that try it and see; the communications between the flash and camera should ensure that the flash understand which aperture setting you have dialed in and adjust the power accordingly.

Read the manual and download the SB900 manual from the Nikon site to see how the two line up. The best way to learn is to get out and use it and become familiar with your gear.

[inkista]

... I bought an excellent book "Understanding Flash Photography by Bryan P[e]terson"...

Just my opinion, but Peterson knows squat about flash. He's mainly a landscape photographer. I'd actually recommend starting with Neil van Niekerk's on-camera flash book, but that's a matter of personal taste.

And of course, there's the Strobist website.

...However, the book is based on Nikon flash SB900 where the aperture can be dialed in and the distance to subject is shown on the flash. I cannot see a similar way of measuring "Distance to Subject" other than using the guide number chart. Any suggestions are welcome.

Yup. The YN flashes don't have distance calculators in them, like the OEM flashes do.

But distance calculation/guide numbers aren't what most of us rely on to set the flash. It was more important back in the days of autothyristors and manual-only flashes or when you use direct flash with the flash on-camera. Most of us prefer to bounce, or to use the flash off-camera. Today, we've got TTL. You may just want to try using iTTL and letting the camera's metering automate the flash power output instead of juggling guide numbers and distance calculations.

[rpcrowe]

I agree with Kathy... I cut my photographic teeth on manual flash (actually on flash bulbs) and I personally consider through the lens exposure metering as the way to go in most situations, Sure there are specialty situations in which manual flash exposure may be the better or even the best way to shoot but, for most photography, TTL flash will do quite well.

What I mean by this is using the flash on automatic and often using the camera on manual exposure is the way to go.

OTOH... Although it will not provide perfect exposure in all instances, using your camera on "P" with the flash on "TTL" will provide usable exposures in many if not most situations. However, I will bounce my flash and use a reflector/diffuser like the Joe Demb Flash Diffuser Pro in almost all cases.

I agree with David (below) in that when bouncing flash, calculating the exposure by using the guide number divided by the distance is not impossible but, it is slower and more difficult...

My aim is to bring back a flash image that doesn't look like flash has been used such as this one...



In fact, for Canon shooters, the old and small 420EX flash is a very good buy on the used market and often runs $50 to $75 U.S. Dollars on USA eBay. It doesn't have manual controls but the TTL exposure is right on and it also has high speed sync allowing its use as a fill flash outdoors at any shutter speed. I have several flash units including an 600EX-RT but, I will sometimes carry the 420EX on quickie shoots because it is smaller and lightweight...

[D L]

I have a YN565EX for Nikon.
It does have a distance calculator (power calculator?). It is at the bottom of the LCD screen (of the flash). You can toggle it between metres and feet as one of the options in the function menu. In TTL mode, the black bars above the distance scale extend to the maximum calculated distance the flash will (should) work for. In M mode I believe a black bar will sit above the single calculated distance. You should see on the right side of the LCD that the flash is detecting your lens aperture, which goes into this distance calculation. I'm not sure if you can manually dial in an aperture setting to the flash in order for it to do this calculation. I don't think so.

I have never used this scale. I am usually either bouncing the flash or firing it through a diffuser. I believe either of these scenarios would make this distance scale practically redundant.

It does seem to work well in TTL mode.
I can't comment on it integrating into the CLS system as I have a D3000, which can't act as a commander in the CLS system. I'm guessing your D610 can do this.

[inkista]

I have a YN565EX for Nikon.
It does have a distance calculator (power calculator?). It is at the bottom of the LCD screen (of the flash)...

Yeah, I was wrong. I'm losing track of the YN models...

[D L]

Yeah, I was wrong. I'm losing track of the YN models...

It was only the fact that I had the exact same model they I had the confidence to reply
So many models swirling around.

[judg]

Thanks very much. Once the flash detects the lens aperture for the calculation, all should be fine as by using the guide number chart and adjusting the power level and / or the mm scale ( 24 to 105) it will be possible to get a flash to subject distance to suit the specific photo situation.

[Manfred M]

Thanks very much. Once the flash detects the lens aperture for the calculation, all should be fine as by using the guide number chart and adjusting the power level and / or the mm scale ( 24 to 105) it will be possible to get a flash to subject distance to suit the specific photo situation.

Pat - the one warning is that you do not get too hung up on the fine details as there are more variable in play than just the distance and aperture. Your subject and shooting location will also impact how your flash impacts the image. Guide numbers and f-stops are only part of what is in play here.

When you do a flash shot, there are often up to three light sources that impact your image (assuming identical subject and setup):

1. The direct light falling on the subject from the flash;

2. Any stray light from your flash that bounces off the walls or ceiling in the room you are shooting in; and

3. Ambient light sources.

The CLS system (which is more than just Commander mode) in theory compensates for this. An integrated flash in iTTL mode fires off a pre-flash which creates a light measurement for the camera to. Your camera will then use this pre-flash information to modify the flash itself to provide you with a properly exposed image. At least it does in theory, whereas in practice, this may not be the result you are looking for.

You can test this by shooting the same subject in different conditions; as an example, take one shot of your subject in a small room and then repeat as the same distance, outdoors at night with the same subject and settings. In theory, your camera and flash should give you identical exposures, but the images may not be the way you want them to look. I ALWAYS do a test shot and look at my histogram as well as the image on my camera's screen when shooting flash. Experience is just as important as automation in getting the exposure you want. Just as I do not shoot in with certain camera modes (I tend to do most of my shooting in Aperture Priority mode, then Shutter Priority and finally fully manual), rather than letting my camera figure out how I want to interpret a scene.

The other important thing to look at when shooting flash, and you get experience is to start looking at getting the flash off your camera and using light modifiers to shape and direct your light. Direct, on camera flash where you mount the flash on your hot shoe rarely gives the best results. Sometimes when shooting in "run and gun" mode, you have to do this, but most of my shots with flash involve some type of modifer (often just bouncing off the ceiling with or without a bounce card).

Flash is an important aspect of photography and once you are good at it, you will wonder how you managed without it. On the other hand, it seems to frighten a lot of photographers and I know quite a few that tend to be "existing light" photographers, because the are unwilling to put in the time to master flash.

[judg]

Thanks for info. I had a look at your work and it's very good. I plan to experiment with flash to become familiar and comfortable using flash(es). As I love landscape photography, I reckon there is plenty of scope for improving foreground presentation by adding flash. I have used nd grads, hdr etc comfortably but want to expand into new areas.