Please confirm or correct my use of Nikon built-in flash

[Mike Buckley]

I would appreciate confirmation or correction of my use of my Nikon D7000's built-in flash unit. The situation I'm referring to is when it is configured in Commander mode to control off-camera flash units and the built-in unit is configured not to fire. I realize that it must fire what the camera manual calls "monitor preflashes." My problem is that those monitor preflashes are being reflected in subjects made of glass (glass noticeably reflects everything!) and those reflections are being captured in the photo.

I have placed translucent material over the built-in flash unit. Sometimes that makes post-processing cleanup easier, sometimes more difficult. I have placed opaque gaffers tape over it but doing so prevents the camera from "reading" the monitor preflashes and the end result is that the off-camera flash units don't fire. EDIT: Now that I realize how the system works, doing that prevents the infrared signal being transmitted from the built-in flash to the off-camera flash units.

It might help you to know that my off-camera flash units are the Nikon SB-600 and SB-800.

Is there something else I could do that I have not thought of yet?

[Shadowman]

Look at "how to use in commander mode;.

https://support.nikonusa.com/app/ans...control-remote

May not be ultimate solution but something Nikon is aware of.

[Mike Buckley]

That document, John, is written more clearly than the camera manual, so thank you for providing it. It explains: "To prevent the control flashes emitted by the built-in Speedlight from appearing in photographs, use a low sensitivity/ISO and small aperture (large f/-number) and do not use the rear-curtain sync option."

I'm abiding by all three recommendations but the control flashes still appear in the photo.

[Shadowman]

That document, John, is written more clearly than the camera manual, so thank you for providing it. It explains: "To prevent the control flashes emitted by the built-in Speedlight from appearing in photographs, use a low sensitivity/ISO and small aperture (large f/-number) and do not use the rear-curtain sync option."

I'm abiding by all three recommendations but the control flashes still appear in the photo.

I wonder if the combination works best with specific lens/specific ISO level. Some DSLRs have 200 while others 100 ISO setting and some lenses have minimum aperture f/40 while others f/32.

[Mike Buckley]

I'm using the lowest available ISO (100) and the smallest available aperture (f/22) on a 35mm Nikon lens but to no avail.

[Shadowman]

I'm using the lowest available ISO (100) and the smallest available aperture (f/22) on a 35mm Nikon lens but to no avail.

Possible solution. "But my flash still...".

http://www.scantips.com/lights/awl.html

[Mike Buckley]

Thanks so much, John. I had never taken the time to review the use, cost or understanding of how the SG-3IR Panel works. Now that I've done so, it seems clear that it's the obvious, inexpensive (only USD $12) solution to my problem. I just now ordered it and have put my shoot on hold until it arrives on Monday. I won't need it often but when I do need it, I expect it to be a game changer.

[Shadowman]

Thanks so much, John. I had never taken the time to review the use, cost or understanding of how the SG-3IR Panel works. Now that I've done so, it seems clear that it's the obvious, inexpensive (only USD $12) solution to my problem. I just now ordered it and have put my shoot on hold until it arrives on Monday. I won't need it often but when I do need it, I expect it to be a game changer.

Mike,

Your original question will definitely help me as I get more into flash photography, I've limited my choice of shiny subject's so far and expect to see similar concerns as I move forward.

[Mike Buckley]

Many thanks, John! My SG-3IR panel arrived and works perfectly.

There are no more reflections in the glass because the visible light emitted by the built-in flash's pre-flashes is blocked. Yet the off-camera flashes still fire because the infrared light emitted by the pre-flashes to fire them passes through the filter.

The device is cleverly designed to fit apparently all Nikon SLRs. Its base fits into the hot shoe purely as a stabilizer; there are no electrical connections. An arm extends upward from the base and over the top of the built-in speed light. The filter hangs from that arm on a swivel that makes it easy to position it whether or not the built-in flash is already raised when placing the device in the hot shoe. I suspect that the swiveling capability might be necessary for use with some camera models, whether already manufactured or designed only in the future.

Thanks again!

[Shadowman]

Many thanks, John! My SG-3IR panel arrived and works perfectly.

There are no more reflections in the glass because the visible light emitted by the built-in flash's pre-flashes is blocked. Yet the off-camera flashes still fire because the infrared light emitted by those pre-flashes is allowed to pass through the filter.

The device is cleverly designed to fit apparently all Nikon SLRs. Its base fits into the hot shoe purely as a stabilizer; there are no electrical connections. An arm extends upward from the base and over the top of the built-in speed light. The filter hangs from that arm on a swivel that makes it easy to position it whether the built-in flash is already raised. I suspect that the swiveling capability is needed for ease of use with some camera models.

Thanks again!

Mike,

Glad it worked out, I may as well invest in one now as I know I'll be needing it soon.

[Mike Buckley]

I just now read the device's manual. (I know, I know: I'm supposed to do that before I use the device.) The manual includes a note explaining that when carrying the camera with the device attached, one should hold the camera rather than the device. Duh! Gotta love those lawyers!