2:1 macro from Venus !

[JR1]

http://nikonrumors.com/

[Dave Humphries]

Hi Jeremy,

This lens came up a short while ago here: Micro Lens Suggestions for Nikon D5100?

... from Post 10 onwards, it gets quite a bit of discussion and other links (not this one though).

In future, this link may persist better (and more relevance) than the one to Nikon Rumours home page.

Thanks, Dave

[DanK]

For many uses, particularly for static subjects, this may well be a good lens, but for work with bugs, I would never buy a fully manual lens. The lack of AF would not be that big a deal, but the lack of automatic aperture control and E-TTL flash would be. It's hard enough to focus at macro distances with the lens wide open, and I use E-TTL flash for 80-90% of my bug shots. My default is:

--1/125, f/13 or so, diffused flash set to E-TTL
--ISO 100-400, depending on how much I want ambient light to affect the shot
--sometimes, use AF for an initial rough focus
--move the camera body slightly to achieve fine focus.

This wouldn't work with a lens like the one in the post. I would rather put tubes with electronic connections on an automatic macro lens.

[Inkanyezi]

Of course a lens like this is more suitable for mirror-free systems. Perhaps it might come also with other mounts. Otherwise, adaption is easy.

[DanK]

Of course a lens like this is more suitable for mirror-free systems.

You have me stumped. Why is this more suitable for mirror-free systems? It seems to me that the drawbacks of a fully manual macro lens (noted in the review as well) have nothing to do with the body used, unless you are saying that focusing quickly in very low light is easier with mirrorless.

[Dave Humphries]

For many uses, particularly for static subjects, this may well be a good lens, but for work with bugs, I would never buy a fully manual lens. The lack of AF would not be that big a deal, but the lack of automatic aperture control and E-TTL flash would be. It's hard enough to focus at macro distances with the lens wide open, and I use E-TTL flash for 80-90% of my bug shots. My default is:

--1/125, f/13 or so, diffused flash set to E-TTL
--ISO 100-400, depending on how much I want ambient light to affect the shot
--sometimes, use AF for an initial rough focus
--move the camera body slightly to achieve fine focus.

This wouldn't work with a lens like the one in the post. I would rather put tubes with electronic connections on an automatic macro lens.

Absolutely - the need to achieve focus (aperture wide open) by moving fore-aft or twisting the focus ring, then stop down to the necessary working aperture by manually turning the lens ring, all the while not moving the camera by the tiniest amount, would rule it out for anything but tripod working - and that kinda mitigates against shooting mobile bugs.

Then add on the issues already mentioned in the other thread (linked above) and it becomes far less attractive for insect shooters.

[Inkanyezi]

/.../ unless you are saying that focusing quickly in very low light is easier with mirrorless.

It is.

OTOH, I have had the possibility to focus from infinity down to about two times life size for a couple of years, so I can appreciate the concept.
At first I thought that this might be a good acquirement, but on second thought, I won't need it, as I already have a lens that performs the task.

[Stagecoach]

I'll put a different perspective on this one which I touched on in a previous thread regarding the Venus 2:1 and based upon bugs.

When taking real close up I never use the AF function but manually pre-set the lens magnification to what I know I will need. This is based upon size of subject, the framing I want, 1/2 to 2/3 of the frame filled with subject which may be just its head or full body, and knowing my sensor size.

Focusing is undertaken by my physical movement of the camera, back and forth, never AF.

Focusing by eye through the viewfinder with the lens stopped down to say f/11 really is not that difficult in that all I am looking for is the 'relative' sharpness of the generally domed eye, knowing the DoF the decision is made as to whether to aim for getting the front, mid or rear of the eye appearing sharpest. At times there are reflections in the eyes and you can concentrate on these.

With the lens stopped down you can use additional light on your subject to help if felt necessary, one of those cheapo LED headlights is great for wrapping round your rig to aim at the subject.

If using flash, onboard or to the side the same cheapo LED headlight can be used and my lens front fitting SB-R200s have a useful modelling light.

The old 105 D macro I have which is now without any electronics inside allows me full TTL flash use with any of the three flash rigs I use so I would assume this would be the same for the Venus 2:1 unless I'm missing something.

So whilst I have the easy ability to shoot at 2:1 now with the 105VR with all the bells and whistles the advantage of the Venus would be its size (reduced length) and of course the simple option of going to 4:1 with less rig length.

[rpcrowe]

Low priced macro alternatives.

You can often find fully functional used Tamron 90mm f/2.8 AF SP Macro lenses on eBay USA for around $150 which, IMO is one of the best macro deals available. The lens produces a 1:1 image bare and can be combined with extension tubes or extension tubes and a teleconverter for greater ratio images...

They are generally available in various mounts, Canon, Nikon, etc... Sometimes it takes a bit of looking but they often pop up. When they do, they generally get snapped up fairly quickly so you need to be prepared to buy when you find one...

Additionally, there is a Phoenix 100mm macro sold under several different names that is reputed to produce very good image quality and sells in the area of one hundred U.S. Dollars, new.

[ScreaminScott]

While it is interesting, I don't like that it doesn't offer auto aperture. It's kinda like using an older pre-set lens.... I use older manual focus lenses macro lenses on my D300 & D7100 & I normally shoot hand held, full manual with either a ring light or a speed light with a soft box attached...I own 6 different AF & MF macro lenses, but my go to macro is a Lester Dine 105mm F2.8 lens from the mid 1980's in Nikon mount...


https://www.flickr.com/photos/screaminscott/sets

[Inkanyezi]

Now this is a first from a new company. I wish them luck. The macro lens a niche product, so it takes something more to become a serious player in the field. We have seen a few niched companies, as Araxfoto and Hartblei, and i guess Venus is a new kid on the block.

I wouldn't expect this particular item to catch a lot of new customers; there is far too much competition, and the competitors have much to offer.

Anyway it is rather impressive that a new company would arise with such a competent product, actually introducing a new idea, which also is easily copied. So the question naturally is: What more could they have up their sleeve?

[JR1]

Absolutely - the need to achieve focus (aperture wide open) by moving fore-aft or twisting the focus ring, then stop down to the necessary working aperture by manually turning the lens ring,.

Just like pre-set lenses of the 60-70s then everything from 50mm to 500mm

[jcuknz]

Absolutely - the need to achieve focus (aperture wide open) by moving fore-aft or twisting the focus ring, then stop down to the necessary working aperture by manually turning the lens ring, all the while not moving the camera by the tiniest amount, would rule it out for anything but tripod working - and that kinda mitigates against shooting mobile bugs.
.

Not macro lens but the older Takumar lenses had the A-M slider which once you have found focus [ moving camera in and out, not with focus ring ]makes closing down the aperture very easy and quick and suitable for all but except the most agile of buggies I have the 50 and the 135 with extension tubes to suit ... though of course prefer to use my regular zoom with a CU lens which suffices or most subjects. The 35 works in a similar manner but never really got the feel of its lever. From memory it is press to open and release to close aperture.