I have a Nikon d5200. and it's a little over a year old now. I''d like to buy an affordable telephoto lens to complement the kit lens. Any suggestions as to how to pick one??
I have a Nikon d5200. and it's a little over a year old now. I''d like to buy an affordable telephoto lens to complement the kit lens. Any suggestions as to how to pick one??
To get good advice, you need to tell us a bit more. Two things are particularly important. One is the focal length you need, which will be determined in part by what you want to photograph. For example, for distant candids of people, 200mm is more than enough on a crop-sensor camera, but it is not nearly long enough for most wildlife or bird shots. Second, how fast do you need the lens to be? Long and fast lenses are heavy and very expensive, so this is an important decision. If you are going to use it indoors without flash--for example, events where flash is not allowed--a fast lens may be the way to go. If you are going to use it mostly outdoors or with flash, a slower lens is usually fine.
So tell us a bit more about how you want to use this new lens.
Hi Natasha,
Best place to start would to assess what you currently use and determine what you'll gain with added focal length. Also determine if you want zoom, normal, or supertelephoto. Nikon breaks their lenses down by shooting styles as well. Start by telling us what you have and what you want to capture.
Hi Natasha I have a D7100 and four different lenses. My camera sensor is essentially identical to yours so I can offer feedback on what works or does not work for my shooting needs. What types of scenes do you want to shoot that you cannot currently shoot? Also, are you looking for lenses in the $300-$600 price range or are you willing to drop $2000+ ?
Michael
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by xpatUSA
Digital Cameras & Equipment
Yesterday 12:10 PM
Telephoto Lenses
I have two 1.7 crop Sigma cameras. Currently no prime lenses. I have 8-16mm, 17-70mm and 70-300mm zooms plus a 2X teleconverter. (actual, not 'equivalent') The only point I'm making here is... (100 views, 4 replies)
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-michael
Some of the subjects I'd like to shoot, are the moon, and wildlife (mostly birds), as well as distant candids. But I'm just an amateur, so I'd like a lens that is relatively cheap, but one that I can experiment with. Also, one of you mentioned how I'd need a longer focal length for birds, but the subjects I'm interested in aren't that far, but I'm not able to shoot them from my kit lens. For example, there are a lot of peacocks in this cemetery I visit, but I wasn't able to get the kind of shot I wanted with the kit lens, even though I got as close to them as possible.
Reason I ask is that shots of the moon (the kind that fills the frame and shows the surface in sharp detail) demand a really long lens, at least 600mm, IMHO, pretty expensive. On the other hand, the peacock shots, in all probability, would be satisfied by 200mm, IMHO.
Assuming that your kit lens is something like 18-55mm, perhaps your wide range of interest (peacocks to the moon) could be satisfied with a 150-600mm zoom, not cheap and pretty heavy . . .
Your kit lens is probably the 18-55mm VR II DX. I had a 55-200mm lens but later sold it and got the Nikon 70-300mm DX VR AF-P with which I am very satisfied. You mentioned shooting birds and the moon. I have done both with my 70-300mm lens (the moon photo had to be cropped) and I find it sufficient for my needs as a non-professional. This forum contains many professional photographers for whom my moon and bird photos would be laughable and my recommendation of the 70-300mm lens would seem like nonsense.
One word of caution - the above lens uses Nikon's new AF-P system which is very new. Nikon says that this lens will not work with the D5100 and will work on the D5300 with the latest firmware upgrade. I don't know if your D5200 is compatible. The 70-300mm DX VR AF-P cannot even be manually focussed unless it is on a compatible body.
Michael
From that POV, the Sigma 70-300mm might work correctly on her camera:
http://www.imaging-resource.com/lens...-dg-os/review/
P.S. it's a 'DG' lens, so 105-450mm equivalent on a DX body.
Last edited by xpatUSA; 11th May 2017 at 08:35 PM.
Thanks for answering my questions.
For the birds: you can get an idea of how long a Focal Length that you might require by making a picture of a typical bird at a typical Subject Distance and then reckoning how much of the frame the bird occupies. If you don't know how to do that, then make a picture and post it here (without cropping it) and also indicate the size of the bird.
For the moon: the longer the better, but I agree that a 300mm lens will do a reasonable job. But also note that for the moon you'll be best to have a (solid) Tripod and Head and a Remote Shutter Release - that is a cost worthwhile to be spent if you really want to do the moon justice, especially if using a modestly priced lens around FL = 300mm - (the reason is mainly because you'll probably be using the lens at around F/8~F/11 and thus to keep the ISO reasonably low, you will be moving into a Shutter Speed which would warrant the use of a Tripod so you can then attain as crisp an image file as possible so you can then crop it dramatically).
For distant candids: (I assume Portraits), with your camera you can frame ALL of a person standing at about 20mtrs from your camera using a 200mm lens. (That's termed a "Full Length Shot"). To frame half a person (an "Half Shot") at a distance of about 20mtrs, you'll need a 400mm lens . . . but you could do it with a 300mm lens and a little bit of Cropping in Post Production. (20mtrs is about the length of a Cricket Pitch, stumps to stumps, or a street wide enough for two cars to pass with cars parked at the curb on both sides).
To keep the flexibility up, but the cost down, you will likely be looking at a ZOOM Lens (not a PRIME LENS) which has a VARYING MAXIMUM APERTURE (meaning the Maximum Aperture changes with changes in the Focal Length, the SMALLEST Maximum Aperture will be at the LONGEST Focal Length).
One main point about these facts is: For any chosen ISO when you use the longest Focal Length you will usually need to use a faster Shutter Speed (to arrest Camera Shake), but, with a Varying Maximum Aperture Zoom you'll need to use a faster shutter Speed, again, because of the smaller Maximum Aperture. So this is why many of these zoom lenses have STABILIZATION built into the lens (Nikon's term is "VR" - VibrationReduction).
VR will assist you to NOT get Camera Shake Blur when using a longer Focal Length at slower shutter speeds when hand holding the Lens. So when you go shopping, I think that "VR" (or the equivalent in other brands) is a very important criterion for your purchase choice of any Telephoto Zoom Lens.
Note that "VR" (or equivalent) will NOT arrest Blur caused by Subject Motion - but VR will still be very useful if the Peacock is reasonably settled on a perch or if the Person is standing or sitting reasonably still.
You will have to be very careful about the compatibility and functionality of Nikon Lenses (and various third party lenses) with various Nikon Cameras - for examples see the comments Michael makes in Post #11.
From what you have described and considering your budget, I think that you should be looking at something like a 70 to 300 Zoom Lens. If the budget allows a zoom to 400mm then consider that too, but zoom lenses to 400mm start to get comparatively heavier and more expensive; a 70 to 200 zoom will probably not be long enough for you.
WW
Bill gave a great response.
I just want to emphasize what he said. Nikon makes lenses that are identical except for vibration reduction. They sell a Nikon 70-300mm DX VR AF-P for about $400 and a Nikon 70-300mm DX AF-P for about $350. It is not worth the $50 saving to forgo the vibration reduction in my opinion. If in doubt post here and we will comment. Pay attention to all the features of the lens. All Nikon 70-300mm lenses are not equal.
Michael
I shoot Canon, so I have no experience with Nikon gear in order to recommend any specific lenses. I can however recommend focal lengths because they transcend brands (the difference between the crop sensor 1.6x Canon and 1.5x Nikon is really to small to make a great distance)... Except for my dog portraits which I shoot with a full frame camera, I most often shoot with one of the Canon crop cameras. Lately, I use the 7D Mark-2 and a 7D...
For my general duty telephoto lens which I use for travel, portraiture (of people and dogs), as well as many landscapes and city-scapes is the Canon 70-200mm f/4L IS (Image Stabilized)... These are the types of images I generally shoot with this lens:
People...
173mm
100mm
Portraits of people:
200mm
169mm
Portraits of Dogs
75mm on full frame camera
70mm on full frame camera
Cityscapes
65mm
70mm
Landscapes
121mm
200mm
For longer focal lengths I once used a 300mm f/4L IS Prime but, I have switched to a 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II lens. Both the prime and the zoom are pretty pricey but, there are other lenses...
300mm prime
100-400mm at 220mm - this allowed me to back off a bit to cover the entire flight
If I wanted to get into the moderate telephoto world at a relatively low price, I would investigate one of the Tamron 70-300mm models. I would definitely want one with some sort of image stabilization or shake control. When I switched from a non-stabilized Canon 70-200mm f/4L to the stabilized f/4L IS model, it was night and day. I used the IS lens four times as much as I had been able to use the non-stabilized model. I generally carry a 17-55mm f/2.8 IS normal angle zoom lens and my 70-200mm f/4L IS on trips and on photo excursions in which I don't think I will need a terribly long lens. I shoot at least 1/3 of my travel images with the 70-200mm lens...
As far as a long telephoto lens, many Nikon as well as Canon shooters in my various camera clubs seem to think very highly of their 150-600mm Sigma or Tamron lenses...
Besides focal length, two other extremely important parameters of telephoto lenses are speed and accuracy of auto-focus. Often, this is what you are paying for when you purchase a very expensive lens. The Canon 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II lens has exceptionally fast and accurate auto-focus capability...
Last edited by rpcrowe; 12th May 2017 at 04:17 AM.
According to the Nikon USA website, compatability of various cameras with the 70-300mm DX VR AF-P lens is as follows
"The number of cameras compatible with both lenses is limited. Even for compatible cameras, firmware update may be required*. Fully compatible models: D5500, D5300*, D3400, D3300*, D500 and later models
Compatible models with limited functions: D5, D810 series, Df, D750, D7200, D7100, D5200, Nikon 1 series with the FT1"
Unfortunately it doesn't say what functions are not available for the second category.
You could also consider the AF-S VR 70-300mm IF-ED FX lens. This is a full frame lens and is more expensive than the DX versions but it should work quite well on your D5200. I use one on my D610 and it produces quite acceptable results. It's not one of those long zoom lenses that make you say "wow" but you have to fork out the big bucks for those!
Dave
You have been blessed with an incredible amount of polite, structured, precise and detailed advice from a range of Photographers with many years of broad ranging experience.
It occurs to me this is one strength of CiC.
As a general suggestion, Natasha, at 20 years old and now owning your first DSLR, yet beginning your journey at 16 years old with a Canon A3400, I think that you owe it to yourself to really consider buying the best lens that you can afford, even if that means a short time to save for it.
Good luck with your choice.
WW
i think that everyone that owns a nikon camera should a nikkor 18-200vr lens
its a great all rounder and for the money i dont think you can get better, they go for a couple of hundred on ebay