Nightmoves - Dancing in the Light

[Chrisclick]

Trying to show these pesky little birds in a way that may help them to be appreciated as handsome little aerobatic experts.

Also a chance to use the new flash head. Dialling-in the corect exposure is still a challenge under these conditions, although it is getting easier with practice.













CC welcome.

[Shadowman]

Nice series.

[Wavelength]

Well illumined bird; really well captured

[Geoff F]

Very good fine detail from such a difficult subject.

[Chrisclick]

Thanks for looking and commenting, John, Nandakumar, and Geoff.

Yes, a tricky subject and lighting. One day.......

[Rainforest]

Splendid series...I can't even decide which I like best! The detail is amazing.

[Dave Humphries]

Great shots Chris, having done some remote bird shooting last year, I can appreciate the issues.

I was shooting with a 300 mm (450 mm FFE) telephoto from a significant distance, but these look to be closer and shot with a wider angle lens.

May be the answers were in the other thread, but I was wondering how you're capturing these Chris?

e.g.

Focus; AF or fixed at a set distance (also the 'correct' subject-flash distance for exposure)?
Shutter tripping; manual by eye, or something more technical?

Thanks, Dave

[bje07]

If you open wider your aperture, the BG will seem lighter and the final photo more pleasant. It's only my opinion

[bnnrcn]

Very nice set Chris

[IzzieK]

Beautiful set, Chris...Why shoot in the night? I don't believe I have seen these in Oz...can you ID these?

[Chrisclick]

I was wondering how you're capturing these Chris?

e.g.

Focus; AF or fixed at a set distance (also the 'correct' subject-flash distance for exposure)?
Shutter tripping; manual by eye, or something more technical?

Thanks, Dave

Hi Dave, thanks for your interest.

Firstly, a little about the set-up: The Lorikeets in the previous thread and the Myna birds from this one, were captured by shooting through an open window that has a sill that is approximately 3.6 mtrs above the ground. Attached (hooked on) to the sill of the window is a bracket that holds a feeding platform. The platform itself is only 15cm x 45cm and is held around 80cm from the house by the bracket and is positioned about 5cm lower than the window sill. This enables me to shoot just across the top of the sill without including the platform in the frame.

The camera (Canon 7D Mkii), is mounted on a tripod about 3 mtrs from the window. Sometimes I attach a 70-300mm lens, sometimes 70-200mm.

Distance and Focusing

If we take the 3 mtrs from the camera to the window sill, and add the 80cm from the sill to the front edge of the platform, plus the width of the sill itself (20cm), we end-up with a subject distance of very close to 4 mtrs. I usually focus (manually) a little beyond the front edge of the platform so as to catch birds both approaching and leaving the platform.

The shots in this thread were taken at 70mm. The 7DMkii has a sensor with a crop factor of 1.6. So, that would mean approximately 110mm FFE focal length for these shots.

Flash

Flash power and distance from the birds is still a 'work in progress'. While recent results have been better than previously achieved (especially with the Lorikeets), it seems that bringing the ambient light under control has been the major factor and not 'mastering' the flash! Because of the variable nature of ambient light, it pays to establish an acceptable/desirable ambient exposure for the background before turning the flash 'ON'.

For these shots, the flash head (complete with 17" beauty dish and diffuser sock) is positioned up against one side the window frame and occupies about 35% of the window opening. This means of course, that framing is within the remaining 65% of the opening. The feeding platform is positioned in the middle (laterally) of the frame.

So, the distance from the flash to the subject is around 1mtr (80cm width of the bracket plus the 20cm width of the sill). The diffuser sock and the close proximity to the subject gives a softer light and eliminates the harsh shadows that were evident in some earlier shots.

Setting the flash power at an arbitrary level to begin with, and firing off a few shots to get an idea of how the birds look by viewing on the camera LCD, and then either adding or subtracting power until you are happy, seems to be a reasonable method! The flash power is adjusted remotely from the control unit mounted on the camera's hot shoe.

The flash unit is a Godox AD600BM (600w/s) with remote (wired) head, and is usually set somewhere betwen 1/8 +.7 and 1/4 +.7 power. Its (radio) controller is the Godox X1T.

Shutter

The shutter is released remotely using 2 X Yongnuo RF-603's (one connected to the camera, and one in my hand).

This is where a good deal of patience is needed; after placing 2 or 3 pieces of fresh wholemeal bread smothered with honey onto the platform, I stand behind the camera with a good view of of the window opening and, with the Yongnuo remote shutter release in one hand (thumb at the ready), and fingers crossed on the other hand, stare expectantly into the opening.

When a bird arrives, it happens very quickly. You may have noticed that the Lorikeets tend to be moving across the opening preparing to land on the platform or, heading straight toward the opening preparing to land on the platform. The Myna birds, as in this thread tend to be fleeing - moving up and away from the platform. This is because the Lorikeets defend their food source vigorously and can inflict a serious wound. Noticing shots #1 and #2 from this thread, you can se that each bird has a morsel of bread and honey that he/she has been able to 'escape' with.

So, when a bird is within the opening (also known as the 'window of opportunity'), lightning-fast reflexes come into play as my aching thumb attempts to fully depress the button on the Yongnuo remote shutter release unit before the bird has left the frame.

Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't.

I hope that helps, Dave.

[Chrisclick]

Thank you, Jean. Maybe achievable lt a later stage. For now, I need the DOF as the birds are moving very quickly, sometimes toward the camera, sometimes away. If the DOF is narrower, many (more) shots will be lost.

Thanks Binnur, appreciate you looking and commenting.

[Chrisclick]

Hi Izzie, thanks for having a look. These were not really shot at night (the birdies are asleep then). They were taken in the afternoon.

I underexposed the background to contrast the birds, it looked like nightime, so hence the title.

These are plain old Noisy Myna birds, Izzie. I'll bet you have seen millions of them! They tend to be disliked. So i'm just trying to show them in a different light (pardon the pun)!

[IzzieK]

Thanks Chris...I remember them now...I like the budgies and the parrots...

[Dave Humphries]

Thanks for all the details Chris (and PM).

The answer was 'more technical'

When I have tried similar, it was with flash(es) on light stands adjacent a feeder or nest box in the garden of my sister's (old) house, I was sat on a chair, or hiding behind a bush or building and snapping from there with a 70-300mm at 300mm (450mm FFE) with camera on a monopod. I used a less powerful Godox speedlight bare headed, set up close as I could to the action. Don't think I've ever shown them; I'm too lazy, not sure they're 'good enough' and also not sure people would be that interested.

Your getting the camera close is a great idea, unfortunately the architecture of my house and the windows doesn't lend itself to replicating your set up, but it is definitely something to bear in mind and has several advantages over my previous methods.

Cheers, Dave