Macro flash

[lesno1]

I just read this while looking at macro photography and wonder what other peoples thoughts are on it


"The key to achieving good results is moving the flash close to the end of the lens and diffusing the hell out of it"

[DanK]

for certain types of macro photography: yes. That's my approach, and that of most people I know, for bugs. Not for stationary flowers, on the other hand.

[Geoff F]

What sort of flash unit? Pop up camera flash, ring flash or standard top of the camera flash unit? One flash mounted centrally or one or more off the camera flash units? What sort of subjects?

At one time, with fixed output flashes you had to use some form of diffuser to reduce the output, such as taping paper over the flash head or using one of many designs of plastic clip on covers.

Modern 'self thinking' flash units will measure the ambient light then adjust their output to suit and you can easily vary the flash output compensation in the same way that you vary normal exposure compensation.

For really close flash work I sometimes use a Lastolite Mini Apollo flash cover because they increase the size of the output area considerably which helps to reduce harsh shadows and the top of the lens causing a shadow. However for distances of more than 2 ft between flash head and subject I don't see any advantage. With really close work under 'studio conditions' I will use various light sources not flash anyway.

I'm not keen on ring flash because being on the end of the lens it is liable to get accidental damage in real life outside photography conditions. I also like to keep as much clutter as possible away from the lens tip when close to an already nervous subject, definitely not having what appears to be a frightening large pair of eyes close to my subject.

For insect work, and in reality most flash photography, I set my camera manually to suit the scene, but taking care over any limitations about shutter speed linking to flash use (eg 1/250 max or high speed flash etc). Then I adjust my top mounted flash unit output compensation as required. Mounting the flash off camera is all very well in some conditions but a lot of my insect work involves shooting through 'holes' in the vegetation.

My typical settings for outside insect work would be 1/200 F14 Iso 400 flash compensation 0 to +2.

For flower work, I prefer to shoot without flash whenever possible, but with regard to subject movement restrictions. Whether insects work best with or without flash is dependent on many things and there aren't any firm rules, but I tend to use flash as my default position but turn it off if I get problems with the flash.