Originally Posted by
Manfred M
That's a make, not a model, so more information is needed. I happen to use a Benq, but not all their screen models are sRGB compliant. If you know the model number and look up the spec sheet and it says 100% sRGB compliant, then it is. If the spec sheet does not, then it is not.
It isn't
It's not possible to do this without an external calibration tool, so you cannot be calibrating but rather are making adjustments.
You may well be right but when I go into Windows 10 it asks me if I want to calibrate my monitor and runs me through gamma, brightness, contrast, neutral gray. When I use my new computer it asks me the same question and then runs me through the same procedure. Perhaps this is a similar situation to astronomy. One needs to collimate a tlescope. You can do it with a pinhole eyepiece or a laser
And you are missing the point. Unless you have a compliant and calibrated screen, you can see that there are differences, but you don't know if you are seeing the correct colours
Not true. I can see if the colours are what I was seeing outside.
Let me go back to the original problem you identified:
1. You are getting mould in your current camera body and were hoping to prevent this from happening by replacing it with a weather sealed model so this does not happen in the future. The answer you got was that this solution would not work as mould spores would still get inside and would flourish in the environment where you live. The solution that was proposed was that you consider getting a humidity controlled storage solution to protect your camera bodies and lenses.
True
Sealed cameras are useless, unless coupled with sealed lenses. These tend to be higher end and can usually be identified because they have an elastomer gasket around the lens mount.
True
The storage bag with desiccant that you current store in will not work.
Not perfectly but better than nothing
2. The story then changed a bit where the problem was fogging when you took your camera outside into a warmer, humid environment. Again the sealed body (and lens) is not a solution. The problem is caused by the temperature differential between the storage environment and the shooting environment. The only way to solve this issue is to allow the camera and lens to warm up to a point were condensation is not an issue.
No. I have failed to make myself plain. We live in a non airconned house that is always close to the ambient temperature. My fogging problem happens when I'm outside and the sun come out driving the moisture out o the ground and into the atmosphere and my camera.
A sealed body is a partial solution, but you still have the issue of the front element of the lens, which will fog over, even if it is a sealed lens. If not, the moisture can work its way into interior lens elements and clearing this problem will taken quite some time.
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3. A few of us suggested that rather than spending money on a new camera, investing in a new camera body as an obvious way for you to continue your photographic growth.
A new computer screen is not nearly as "sexy" as other types of photography equipment, but as it is the most frequently used tool in ones work, it is a wonder why this situation exists at all. A lot of people will spend all kinds of money on a new computer system; fast processor, fast video card, etc. without analyzing what these contribute to their workflow.
Actually I did a lot of analyzing. A high end monitor does me no good if my low end computer crashes trying to pp astro shots. Taker a look at the minimum system requirements needed to run DSS
Most computer systems target either the "office user" who uses basic office software, works in a bright environment and spends time looking at web sites. None of these are particularly resource intensive users. At the other end are the computer gamers who need the video processing power to play games. These are the two audiences that computer sales people are most familiar with and have no issues in steering them in the right direction. Other less known uses like photo editing, video editing or creating artwork on a computer all have different requirement and most computer sales people don't have a clue on what these users need.
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The photo editing side of this group is the one that is easiest to handle; they don't need a particularly powerful multi-processor computer running a 64-bit operating system. Editing still images is not particularly resource intensive, so a decent mid-range computer with a decent amount of RAM is all that is required. A good mid-range video card with at least 2 GB on-board video RAM is quite main stream. What is important is a good computer screen that can accurately display at least the sRGB colour space (AdobeRGB is you plan to do your own prints) and it must be calibrated and profiled using a relatively inexpensive hardware profiling device from xRite or Datacolour. Higher end screens made for this type of work typically require a higher end profiling device.