YES. There are 4 sliders under the SHARPENING process in Lightroom: NamelyI see, Jiro, that you do not use unsharp mask for any creative sharpening before resizing. Would that be correct?
AMOUNT - the extent of sharpness that you want to apply on the image you are editing. I think it works the same as the High Pass filter in Photoshop. Picture this as something like a volume control on a stereo unit.
RADIUS - The extent the sharpening amount is extended to the neighboring pixel elements. If you push this too far (increase its value) you would see the Halo effect on the image you are editing. I usually starts at 0.5 and then gradually increase the value depending on my subjective taste. Typically I don't go as far as 1.2 to 1.3 in value. If you have very sharp edges on your image (like clearly defined straight lines) it will definitely produce halos around these lines. If you have soft edges on the image, these areas won't be affected until you increase the radius value to the right.
Amount and Radius are the sharpening enhancers, the next two sliders are what we call dampeners.
DETAIL - This dampens the halo effect induced by the radius slider. It's like you are bringing in the detail on the sharpened areas while at the same time preventing any blooming or halo to appear while you are adjusting it.
MASKING - This works like the find edges filter in photoshop. What it does is that it is finding all the edges (from going to all the areas of the image to just the edges alone) on the image and selectively apply the sharpening adjustment values on these areas. White areas are the most affected ones while the black areas are not. To see it in action, hold the ALT key while adjusting the sliders to see its effect on the image. Remember, white areas are affected, black ones are not.
The contrast slider in LR is a global adjustment tool. If you want to be specific on your contrast adjustment, then the TONE CURVES in Lightroom is the better choice to use. However, since Lightroom does not have layer capabilities (but it does have the adjustment brush to work on similar to this but limited in range) You can't tune in your adjustment by adjusting the opacity of your adjustment layers. This is the reason why I use the contrast and tonal adjustment tools in photoshop. I can go as many as 8 curve adjustment layers on one image depending on how I want to fully control my tone contrast adjustments. I can't do that in Lightroom.Also, how is Step 4 different from contrast adjustment in LR,
It all depends on what you want to achieve. I don't apply the same procedure over and over again like a prescribed medicine to all my images. The image usually gives me an idea on why, where, and how much will I edit it. I learned this approach from David duChemin's book. When you apply the same thing to all your images and not subjectively assessing if it makes your image coincide with your vision then you simply know "how" to adjust but not "why" you are adjusting. The former is the logical side, the latter is the intuitive side of editing.
YES, definitely. Main subjects usually are sharper, brighter, with more contrast. Background and secondary subjects are a bit softer, darker (if needed) and with lower contrast to be distinct from the main subject....do you use masks for selective adjustments?
Hope this helps, Abhi.
I forgot to tell you abhi. I always have 2 versions of my work. One is a 16-bit high resolution of the image and one in 8-bit smaller sized jpeg. The 16-bit high resolution does not get any sharpening values added to it until I know what I want to do with it (print or share in the web as a high-res image). The Jpeg file is the one that gets all the adjustments prior to uploading to flickr.