Post your insects

[deetheturk]

Very cool, amazing detail well done, at two times you would be approx 2.5 inches from the subject wow did you glue his feet down to stop him moving?

Cheers David

[rudi]

...... did you glue his feet down to stop him moving?

Cheers David

No, I put a spell on him (hope this is the correct saying....)

Brought this one inside after a cold rainy day, must have been paralized. After 2 minutes the antennae popped up, and the head started moving, very nice to see in the frames I took. After another half minute or so it started flying around. End off shoot...opened the window and off it went..

[Geoff F]

Just double checked with the book, Rudi.

As you will be aware, some Comma butterflies hibernate over the winter and appear early the following Spring. This second brood tends to be slightly darker and with a more greenish tint than the early Summer brood.

There is also a southern species (Polygonia egea) but too far south for you to worry about.

And they have the comma mark looking more live a V or Y shape; rather similar to the Thorn species of moths.

[rudi]

Thanks for update Geoff. I think we had one hibernating in our shed last year, but I am not sure anymore now, no pictures available. More probably it was a Nymphalis ....

I had the idea to make a more detailed shot from the white C and from the green 'patches', which could have some nice patterns, well next time....

[Cantab]

I recently took these photos of the underside of an orb weaver spider. Because of its location I was not able to take a top view of the spider. I'm not sure about the precise identification. I think it is araneus diadematus but another possibility might be acacesia hamata.

The photos were shot with a Canon 100 mm macro lens 1/200, f14, ISO 200 with flash. I should've used white paper towels or something to diffuse the flash somewhat as the spider still has a few hotspots even after some selective pp.

[Geoff F]

Some hotspots are usually impossible to avoid with flash, Bruce. I tend to clone or brush them over. And bright sunshine can actually be worse than flash.

What camera mode were you using? For flash use, I shoot in manual and allow the flash to find its own level; but I use a little bit of flash compensation to reduce any harsh flash problems.

In the old days of fixed output flashes you had to use some form of flash head masking to reduce the power. But with the modern 'self thinking' flashes adding any flash masking just encourages the flash to increase its output; so you don't really get anywhere.

Moving the flash position off camera etc can be beneficial but this can cause a lot of other problems in 'real life' photography.

[Cantab]

Some hotspots are usually impossible to avoid with flash, Bruce. I tend to clone or brush them over. And bright sunshine can actually be worse than flash.

What camera mode were you using? For flash use, I shoot in manual and allow the flash to find its own level; but I use a little bit of flash compensation to reduce any harsh flash problems.

In the old days of fixed output flashes you had to use some form of flash head masking to reduce the power. But with the modern 'self thinking' flashes adding any flash masking just encourages the flash to increase its output; so you don't really get anywhere.

Moving the flash position off camera etc can be beneficial but this can cause a lot of other problems in 'real life' photography.

Geoff, thank you for your comments. I was shooting in manual mode. From my perspective, things simply get too complicated if I let the camera play around with either the aperture or shutter speed (or ISO). That may be partly because of decades of using a DSLR with a match the needles exposure system and a flash head with a dial on the back of it for determining the appropriate f-stop.

On the topic of trying to diffuse the flash head, I've seen in another thread considerable discussion of various ways of diffusing the flash in an attempt to reduce hotspots. Are you suggesting that, from your experience, this type of diffusion does not really provide much assistance?

[Geoff F]

That is indeed my experience, Bruce. I've tried things as varied as a Stofen Diffuser and a polariser, and they produced worse results.

It would be so nice if something did work, however in the real world . . .

Reducing the flash power may help, but if you reduce it sufficiently you can then get problems with shadows. If you manage an angle where you don't get any rebounded light going directly to the camera you may see some improvement. Like shooting towards a mirror, which in reality is what is happening with those shiny surfaces. But difficult to organise when shooting live subjects.

Using flash with the manual flash output option is another choice which can help if you need to seriously reduce power.

The problem with masking over a modern flash head in auto flash settings is that the camera doesn't know what you have done, so it is telling the flash unit to increase power while you are wanting to reduce it. Which is where flash compensation is helpful, to a limited extent.

The best conditions for me, when photographing insectlife, or flowers for that matter, is a lightly overcast sky with no direct sunshine but sufficient light.

Sometimes with flowers, I will introduce some light shading to reduce harsh sunlight. But once again, difficult for live insect work; particularly as any sudden reduction in light levels tends to scare away your models.

So I have found that you just have to learn to live with a few hotspots when photographing with flash or bright sunshine.

[Cantab]

Geoff, thank you again for your comments. Turning to the ID question, I believe there are orb weaver spiders in England but possibly not the same as over here. Does my spider look like anything you've seen?

[Geoff F]

It certainly looks like one of the Araneus species; such as Araneus diadematus but I would want to see more angles before being too specific.

A spider expert would rely more on an angle like you have here and do an identification based on the genitalia, but although I have the relevant books I'm not sufficiently skilled to work from this angle.

[Cantab]

Geoff, I'll see if I can find another specimen. If I do, I'll shoot from angles other than the bottom side.

[Abitconfused]

My insect...50mm Sigma Art lens. He is energetic and hard working but a bit paranoid.

[deetheturk]

Nice capture Ed!

David

[Geoff F]

Bees are always tricky because they rarely stop flitting around long enough to pose for a portrait; so you have done well to capture one in that position.

[orlcam88]

Just another bee. It's been warmer than usual but that's to be expected these days. Just glad to see them

[deetheturk]

Very nice Orlando!

David

[orlcam88]

Thank you David and Geoff!

[jdathebowler]

This is my first effort in trying to capture a Plume Moth.Please comment on how to improve the next time I see one.
John

[Cantab]

John, an interesting looking bug. What aperture, etc. did you use?

[jdathebowler]

Hi Bruce,I used 4.0 1/60 and ISO 800 with flash.
John