Camera recommendations for architect student? Help

[Inkanyezi]

I would not flat out recommend equipment that has major flaws for the type of work expected.

Although the CaNikon cameras are decent machines for general photography, they can be a PITA for closeup work when you come down to models, mainly because you cannot check sharpness critically. Essential accessories also come expensive. Tilt lenses for sharpness control are expensive, and to use them, you need live view with magnification, which is not available on all cameras. It also helps to have a swing/tilt screen for ease of work.

IMHO, the best camera for this kind of work presently might be a Panasonic m4/3 camera, for example G3. There is a decent 7-14 mm lens for normal architecture shots, and with a tilt adapter from Peleng, it accepts any M42 SLR lens, the best of which come from Fuji and Pentax. A good companion for the adapter would be a 24 mm manual lens with multicoating, but they are a bit hard to find, and a 28 mm might be easier to get.

When shooting in-camera jpeg or converting with the bundled software, optical deficiencies of original lenses, as distortion and colour fringing, are controlled automagically. The video is more than decent, and critical sharpness may be checked in the viewfinder, a feature that no Canon or Nikon has.

So that's my suggestion, a tool that is more apt for the kind of work to be done.

[Dons]

Hi Julian, for Nikon, you can usually purchase the body without any lens for a reduced price, then add up to two Nikon lenses of your choice for a reduced price provided all three items are purchased at the same time.

I agree with Frank.. You just buy the body, if nikon, maybe you can consider D90 (it has motor on the body means more flexible with choices of lenses) and you can add lens with nikon 18-200mm for all around lens and tokina 11-16mm for wide angle.. I think it will be a good start for you..

[Dave Humphries]

I agree with Frank.. You just buy the body, if nikon, maybe you can consider D90 (it has motor on the body means more flexible with choices of lenses) and you can add lens with nikon 18-200mm for all around lens and tokina 11-16mm for wide angle.. I think it will be a good start for you..

I'd second those suggestions, the 18-200mm isn't too bad - I'll post some shots (one day) and I'd like that Tokina, but can.t with my body. If money is 'no object' in the decision, the D7000 is considered the latest equivalent to a D90.

Cheers,

[tclune]

I agree with Frank.. You just buy the body, if nikon, maybe you can consider D90 (it has motor on the body means more flexible with choices of lenses) and you can add lens with nikon 18-200mm for all around lens and tokina 11-16mm for wide angle.. I think it will be a good start for you..

The D90 sounds like a good choice for the body, but I really don't like travel lenses -- and the cost of that one would pretty much pay for two good lenses. I would opt for something like the Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 (a personal favorite for just about anything) and either the Tamron 70-300 VC or a refurb Nikon 70-300 VR (the one that I actually have). The two of them would run about the same price as the travel lens, but would be massively more capable. In all likelihood, the OP could forego the tele for the foreseeable future if money were tight -- I don't expect that the long reach will be a particularly high use item in this context. Indeed, he might decide to wait and save up for that wonderful Nikon 70-200 f/2.8 VR lens, which I can imagine would be useful to just about anyone who can get the money together for it.

Also, I would opt for the Tokina 12-24 f/4 over the Tokina 11-16 f/2.8. While it is true that the f/2.8 would be a nice thing to have, the narrow range of the 11-16 makes the lens too much like a prime -- at an awkward focal length for general use. I have often taken only the 12-24 with me when I have been wandering around indoors and have not felt at a disadvantage because of it. FWIW

[Malcgeorge]

I would concur that your choice of lenses are critical and so important. You must aim to get a shift lens if you want really excellent architectural shots, but they are expensive usually. I have never looked on ebay, but there might be such lenses less expensive there. You could consider getting a second hand manual focus shift lens to fit whatever digital camera you choose - that would be cheaper- and the great thing with photographing buildings is - they dont move - or at least not out of earthquake season! So there is no need for rapid autofocusing. Also get a good tripod - a sturdy one. Also think about the wider lenses as something you want to consider- certainly something below the norm of a what passes for so called wide angle lens often now. Even a fisheye lens. But generally I think it is important to spend money on your lenses over and above the camera itself- I have often picked up camera bodies second-hand, but lenses I most usually buy new and the best I can afford after researching the choice well. Just sometimes, though, I have bought a bargain second hand lens which is a corker of a lens. So it all about the lenses - especially for what you have in mind.

[Colin Southern]

You must aim to get a shift lens if you want really excellent architectural shots, but they are expensive usually.

That's what I thought also, but I was quite surprised to learn from a friend of mine who is now semi-retired from a very successful career in architectural photography, that he never uses them.

I don't do a lot of this kind of thing, but I have found that so long as I keep the sensor plane absolutely perpendicular to the floor - and paying particular attention to sensor height from the floor, the results were surprisingly good. As with most things in photography, getting good results nearly always comes down to having good lighting.

[hoffstriker]

All is can say here is: Julian should be looking at his local camera stores for a used older body prosumer camera body and pair it with something like the Canon 17-40 L. It's not gonna do everything, but it's the best he'll get for his budget.


EX: Canon 30D - Ex+ $415.00 on KEH.com
Canon EF 17-40mm f/4L USM Lens - $799.00 on BHphotovideo.com

[rpcrowe]

Not to beat a dead horse but, using any crop camera; a lens wider than 17-18mm for interior shots is really needed. Most certainly, 28mm is NOT a lens which can be used on a crop camera for architectural interiors.

I agree with Colin that keeping the sensor plane perpendicular to the floor is the most important aspect of avoiding distortion. A lot of distortion can be corrected using Photoshop CS-5 or Photoshop Elements; especially if the image was shot well in the first place.

A wide range zoom lens like the 18-200mm is certainly not the type of lens for architectural photography. The image quality is not particularly good while barrel and pincushion distortion (the bane of architectural photographers) are more exagerated in the wide focal length lenses.

Depending on your need for video, a stand-alone video camera might free up your choices in camera models. The Flip HD video camera is quite inexpensive. Although I have video capability with my Canon 7D, I use the flip for uploading videos of my rescue dogs on YouTube. It is easier and more fun to shoot with this simple camera and for the use I do with my videos, worrying about shooting HD video with a DSLR is, IMO a PITA. The FLIP produces adequate quality for my needs. There are other stand alone video cameras which will do a better jon than a DSLR in shooting video.

To tell you the truth, I don't like the 7D for video use. I don't trombone my zooms but, find that the lenses for my 7D. while top notch for still work, have a lot to improve in video use. The twist range from telephoto to wide angle is really too short in order to do a very smooth zoom. The follow focus capability of most of the still lenses are virtually non existant because the twist is only about 90 degrees total.

I am used to zooms for 16mm motion picture cameras such as the great 12-120mm Angenieux. This is not a motorized zoom but this lens can be zoomed a LOT MORE SMOOTHLY than the lenses designed for still photography used on DSLR cameras. Of course, you can always jury rig it with the plethora of accessories which are available (at a pretty high price) to change a damn good still camera into a mediocre video shooter.

Follow focus is also a lot easier with a lens designed for cinema or video work. You can accomodate the still lenses with accessories like this one...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKJ9V...eature=related

[julian norton]

Thank you for all of your guys hard work and help I recently went into my local camra store and tried out a bunch of cameras and lens. Lucky for me I found 300 dollars in an old wallet I thought I had lost. So with the new money I talked to the sales accociate and he was able to convince me on getting a Nikon it was a brain rattling choice between the Nikon and the Canon with literally the only difference being that the Nikon lens came with a 5 year warranty while the Canon had a 1 year warrenty I couldn't find a noticable diffrence in any other aspect between the Nikon 5100 and the Canon T3i/T2i

So what I was looking at after doing a lot of research and in store testing is the following

Nikon D5100 Digital SLR Camera With 18-55mm VR Lens


1x Tamron SP AF 10-24mm f / 3.5-4.5 DI II Zoom Lens For Nikon DSLR Cameras
2x Lexar 8GB Professional 133x SDHC Card
1x Nikon EN-EL14 Lithium-Ion Battery (1030mAh)

I decided against getting the tripod (for now) as I don't think I will be able to stand dragging it all across Italy and without becoming an clear mark for robbery.

However input on these choices would be appreciated the cost of it in store was like around 1460- tax. I can make up the difference I was just wondering if this was a decent price. I checked around and was able to find this site that seemed pretty reputable any thoughts http://www.bhphotovideo.com/ they were able to offer the exact same thing but is tax free for around 1370. Also they offer a 3 year accident included warenty for around 130 bucks which is making them seem really tempting. So I'm debating going with that instead since its tax free I just don't know how easy it will be if I run into trouble to contact them.

I'm still open to lens suggestions though. The guy at the store said they don't sell any used lens but the main headquarters does so i'm going to check that out tomorrow. Thanks a lot like I said you guys are awesome I could still use the help. It seems everyone is a big fan of Tonkina lens so I'll look into them too.


ps any recommendation for a camera bag I'm looking for it to fit 2 lens main body, SD card, mic. cables, and most importantly be portable enough to carry around for hours at a time but still be study enough not to be cut easily if someone tries to cut and run it. Budget around 50-75 dollers

[Malcgeorge]

Tamrac 75 or 85 is a good bag - it is a rucksack type with compartments for the camera and lenses plus room for a bit of other stuff. The really nice thing is the side flap to be able to get your camera out quickly when that fleeting shot appears and needs to be taken without too much fuss and bother. It costs about £40-50 here so I guess you could get it within your $50-70 budget.

[FrankMi]

ps any recommendation for a camera bag I'm looking for it to fit 2 lens main body, SD card, mic. cables, and most importantly be portable enough to carry around for hours at a time but still be study enough not to be cut easily if someone tries to cut and run it. Budget around 50-75 dollers

Hi Julian, there are a lot of good camera bags available in many configurations. After much experimenting with camera bags and how to organize them I came up with a solution that fits my needs for doing a wide range of outdoor photography using almost exclusively natural light.

I put my camera on a Black Rapid strap for easy access and fast shooting. I carry two lenses, one wide-angle and one telephoto in lens cases that attach securely to my belt with the built-in Velcro straps. That leaves the spare battery, spare memory card, cable release, lens wipes and other bits and pieces in a zip lock plastic bag which easily fits in my pocket. Lens filters are in a pouch attached to the Black Rapid strap. Unless I bring my tripod in a case that slings over my shoulder, I have everything I need with both arms/hands free and nothing banging around. I leave the camera case, speedlight, battery charger, and all the other non-essentials in the camera bag for easy transport back in the vehicle or at home.

If I were starting from scratch I'd get just the lens cases and for the stuff I have in my camera case, any appropriate carrying bag would work.

[rpcrowe]

I have given up carrying a camera bag when shooting. Instead I transport my gear when I am flying in a light backpack. I use a Lowepro Mini-Trekker AW but any medium to small backpack will be just fine. When I am shooing, I carry my cameras on a strap (I use an OPTECH USA Dual harness) and wear a photo vest and carry my extra gear in the pockets. I fly wearing the vest also and have found that it is great for airline travel because I can use it to carry my passport, wallet, eye and sunglasses, tickets and boarding passes, reading material, cell-phone and I-pod and then just need to slip off the vest when going through the airport security.

When I am shooting in crowded areas or areas in which I am concerned about theft, I have the cameras on the strap beneath the vest. It is easy to shoot that way and I would expect that it is a bit safer than having a camera bag swinging from my shoulder. Of course, someone could slice my vest pockets but, there are so many pockets in my vest that I would expect that it might be difficult to identify which pocket to slash.

You cannot be totally safe from theft anywhere in the world but, paying attention to where you are, not wandering alone into strange areas at night and not following some nice guy (or pretty girl) down an alley to "get the wonderful view of a chapel or a famous monument or to have a drink" is another common sense procedure.

There are camera security straps which incorporate a steel cable which prevents the cut and run thief from slicing the strap. I have not used these but, if you are worried about cut and run thieves, twenty-five U.S. dollars or so might give you peace of mind...

http://www.rei.com/product/753280/pa...:referralID=NA

By the way... Here is a tip in any area in which there may be pickpockets. I separate my cash; keeping most of my money plus my passport in a neck pouch beneath my shirt.

http://www.google.com/#q=travel+neck...w=1107&bih=468

I carry a small amount of ready cash folding money (in small denomominations) and coins in the front pocket of my jeans. I replentish the ready cash when needed but, transfer the money from the pouch to the pocket of my jeans in a restroom or some other fairly private location. Flashing a big wad of cash is a lure for thieves almost anywhere in the world.

It is really funny that Americans can be afraid of traveling in Europe and Europeans can be afraid of traveling in the USA. I don't wander into any type of area in a foreign land that I would not wander in my own city (and there are some areas of San Diego, CA which I consider off-limits for photography). I have traveled all over the world and have never been robbed or mugged. If you are traveling in fear, you certainly will not enjoy your travels...

I understand your reluctance to carry a tripod and frankly, I carry one sometimes and other times I don't. However, a lightweight monopod will give your camera a lot of support and is often allowed in some places like museums that forbid tripods. The monopod will allow slower shutter speeds when shooting indoors in lower light levels.

[Colin Southern]

I understand your reluctance to carry a tripod and frankly, I carry one sometimes and other times I don't. However, a lightweight monopod will give your camera a lot of support and is often allowed in some places like museums that forbid tripods. The monopod will allow slower shutter speeds when shooting indoors in lower light levels.

I agree 100% In fact I'd go so far as to say I don't know how it would be possible to get quality indoor photos of architecture without using a tripod; by definition it's going to involve narrow apertures in areas of relatively low levels of light - neither of which are condusive to hand-held shooting. It should be possible to get something that's no nore than 1 or 2kg ... could even make a good "weapon" in case of emergency!

[Malcgeorge]

There is loads of good advice here Julian and certainly enough to set you up in a way that should help you to get the most out of your trip. However, I would add that your fears about getting robbed are rather overplayed - if you are sensible and take sensible precautions there is next to nil possibility of you being robbed in most cities in Europe, especially if you stay in the tourist areas and don't flaunt what valuables you have or get careless with them. I have travelled extensively in Europe and to be frank I have never felt in the least worried, even in some areas where others say it is dodgey. So your attitude is important- mark yourself out as a frightened victim and that's what you will be. On an equipement front I now carry a monopod more often than I pack a tripod and this is something you might consider. Also if you want to do lots of interior shots perhaps a flash gun is needed or at least check what is the max sensitivity of the camera sensor you buy. But perhaps the best advice to come out of here is that with endless cash everything is possible, but on a limited budget you must cut your cloth accordingly and so what you might have to do is scale back your expectations to fit in with the capabilities of the gear you can afford and plan well to get the maximum use out of the gear you do get. Reading the posts here I think there is advice which is pretty sound and should help you to achieve a dfegree of what you are after on your trip.

[Dons]

I decided against getting the tripod (for now) as I don't think I will be able to stand dragging it all across Italy and without becoming an clear mark for robbery.

Ho ho ho..... Julian, tripod is a must have... Specially when you want to take night landscape or slow shutterspeed... Of course you can push it with high ISO, but the result is not very good...