Beginner Photographer needs some advice on equipment

[PopsPhotos]

Some very good advice here. I have many ideas I could offer, had I the time, but I'm in production on my tool, finally and time is very short. So, as an alternative, here is a link to a fellow I like:

http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/reco...cameras.htm#2k

Now, be aware, as you read through his site, he does like to joke around a bit, so watch for the really outrageous statements. (Inserted for those who don't like people who joke.) The bulk of his site is based on his own tests and experience, so you can trust him.

Pops

[Vapvk]

To be commercial photographer you have to first decide what could be your clients and what they expect from your photographs, most important is at what cost? That will help you to decide what camera kit and investment will make your venture grow and fulfill your ambitions in photography. As per my experience your "Public Relation or PR" is more important than your camera kit.

I have started in 1985, lending cameras from friends and then 1000$ loan. Today I have 40,000$ worth equipment and doing good job as Trainer and Consultant in the field of Video, Photo, Audio Track Recording and Computer Desktop assembly.







you will be surprised to know what camera kit I used to sell these photo.

[Designer]

Sarah, I am so sorry to read that you were robbed. Please try to keep your spirit and hopes up. I wish you good luck at any recovery of the money, and your continued effort at starting your photography business.

May I still respond to your orignial post?

I have heard that the Nikon line is generally favored by photojournalists, while the Canon line is prefered by portraitists. Either line has much to laud, and either brand will perform stuningly with the proper accessories, and adequate practice. Your preference for the D7000 is understandable, but if I may, I would like to comment on your other choices.

You wrote that you would like to cover events, such as a photojournalist, and that you would attempt most shots using available light. You made no mention of computer software, but this is essentially the "second half" of making pictures, at least those that you wish to be paid for. Save up the money to get a good computer software program to "finish" the pictures that you take with the camera.

Having said that, I will point out that you will not need most of the filters that you mentioned. No need for a polarizing filter is most of your work will be indoors. Also, no need for the UV/skylight filter, either. In fact, I don't see a need for any filters whatsoever for your chosen field, but you may wish to get those two for jaunts in the out-of-doors. Get the size for your largest diameter threads, and then get an adapter ring(s) to "step down" the size to your other lenses. Be aware, however, that some larger diameter threads are also a wider "pitch", which means that the adapter ring(s) may have to have different thread pitches on either end. Get these adapters from your local camera shop, so the manager can order the correct product.

Speaking of larger lenses, I am going to go out on a limb, and suggest that you will need only one lens. If your goal in shooting style is for quick portraits in available light, then I suggest that you obtain the fastest normal-to-medium-length "prime" lens that you can afford. This will likely be in the range of a 50 to 85mm focal length, with an aperture size of 1.4 or thereabouts. This will be an expensive lens, but with VR, (vibration reduction) and proper technique, you should be able to crop and enlarge any reasonably-exposed photo to a very nice portrait taken at nearly any indoor range. This will eliminate the hassle of changing lenses for most of your shooting.

The software is also where you do things like color balance, special effects, and touch-ups.

Please keep us informed as to your progress.

Jim (Designer)

[tresise]

I am a Nikon user and have been for 35 years, when I worked professionally in the photo industry I used just about every format up to 10x8, and worked different sides of the industry including pro labs, and a Japanese photo company.

It is most unfortunate that you lost your savings - certainly with online banking etc transferring money reduces the need to carry large sums of cash.

I was going to say that for $2000 you simply don't have enough cash to buy the sort of kit you need even for a very restricted market of indoor events. However you could just manage it, well the basics only.

The D7000 as a body will provide the quality you need. However when it comes to the rest of the equipment you can't skimp if you wish to be taken seriously. The figures of $250 for a lens or less is frankly a joke.

Ideally you would have a f2.8 lens (AF 17-55mm f/2.8G ED-IF AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor) but that will be well outside of your funds coming in at $1400 each.

Perhaps a kit? D7000 DSLR Camera Kit w/18-105mm DX VR Lens $1500.

Then you need to add a good flash I currently have the Nikon SB800 which can light up a 'big area' when taking a large group. The current model is Nikon SB-900 AF Speedlight at $479.

A UV filter was mentioned somewhere - always have one on a lens - it is there to protect the front of the lens!!!! replacing a scratched filter is much cheaper than the whole lens, and if you move outside a polarizing filter comes in useful.

All prices from http://www.bhphotovideo.com in NY (as I am UK based)

The range 18-105 (27 - 150 on DX) gives you the option to take both a group or an individual with out being obtrusive, standing back unobserved and taking a candid picture allows you to get a shot which others won't even see.

But on top of all of this you will actually need to know how to use a camera / lens / flash and this is were I become more critical does the world need another person with a camera who does not know what they are doing? From all of your comments about what kit etc tells me one thing you don't know much, if anything about photography.

You mention pictures in a church - I presume a wedding - that is a specialty act in its self. I always refused wedding work as it is fraught with problems, and getting good pictures of a big event is crucial. You really need to be technically very competent and know the venues well.

Honestly don't invest in camera kit if you think you will make some money - invest in something you like doing and you get satisfaction from and and ideally you are good at. Having worked as a pro there is nothing worse than an amateur trying to earn a 'buck' they lower the price and the quality. This might sound harsh but commercially it is difficult enough to earn a living as a photographer I saw many a 'pro' just scrapping a living.

[EricBowles]

I have several Nikon cameras and shoot professionally. In terms of your budget and needs, the D7000 is a very good choice - it's new technology, great image quality, and most importantly performs well with low light.

For events, a flash is probably going to be a requirement. The SB-700 is a good full function flash.

For events you need to cover several focal lengths - 18-35mm for large groups, 35-50mm for small groups, 85-100mm for individual shots, and 150-200 to isolate subjects from a distance. There is little need to have more than 200mm. You can break this kit up a lot of ways, but 18-200mm is your range.

One of the tricks to good event photos is to isolate your subject from the background. That requires a shallow depth of field. A shallow depth of field helps with low light, but only if your subject(s) are in focus. I like an f/2.8 lens, but there are some very good options at 50mm - the f/1.4 and f/1.8 lenses are good options.

The less expensive consumer lenses give up a little with image quality vs. their pro counterparts, but are solid options to start. In 4x6 prints you won't see any real difference, but you would see a difference in large prints. Generally consumer lenses do not offer f/2.8 apertures, so you are giving up a bit of the subject isolation. I would look for a VR lens - it helps with slower shutter speeds as long as your subject does not move. There is also a difference in build quality between the consumer, pro-sumer, and pro level lenses. Given your budget, you'll probably start with an 18-55 and a 55-200 or 55-300 lens. The upgrades would be the 16-85 and 70-300.

Unless you need to protect a lens from fingers or splashes during a shoot, I'd skip the UV filters. The caveat is you must always use a lens hood. You do need a circular polarizer to cut outdoor reflections. Indoors it slows shutter speeds a lot.

With the Nikon system, you'll need to post process your images. Nikon View is free and a very good start. Capture NX2 is a good solid editor that will handle most of the needs of professional work.

Don't forget that sometimes used gear is a good choice. www.keh.com is one of the top retailers of used gear - conservative ratings and very reliable. You can both buy used gear and sell it as you upgrade.