Yongnuo YN-460 II Actual values

[Equilibrium8]

I bought a Yongnuo YN460 II a while ago to use for fill and backlighting. I use a YN-468 as my main flash.

Does anybody know how the power increments on the 460 translate to proper aperture values?

I wanted to use the two flashes together on each side of an object and I struggled to get them to an equal setting; there was always a slight shadow on one or the other side.

[Black Pearl]

You're best off investing in a flash meter, that way you can balance the lights precisely and get a perfect exposure.

[Equilibrium8]

Thanks Robin.
I've been putting off getting a flash meter, but it seems pretty difficult to work with two flashes without one.

[revi]

As you have two different models, it might be impossible to get a perfect equilibrium by only varying the power settings
on the flashes (I wouldn't even bet on it with two of the same model...). However, you could try to change the distance
flash-subject for the fine tuning (I realise that that might change other things as well, but it might be your only solution).

Remco

[Equilibrium8]

As you have two different models, it might be impossible to get a perfect equilibrium by only varying the power settings
on the flashes (I wouldn't even bet on it with two of the same model...). However, you could try to change the distance
flash-subject for the fine tuning (I realise that that might change other things as well, but it might be your only solution).

Remco

Thanks Remco. I didn't think of that. The space I was working with wouldn't allow me much leeway on flash distance, but I could have just gone to the floor.

I probably wouldn't need to match the flashes for most things I suppose. This was a random need; I was doing product shots for my wife's company and she brought home their light tent and ONE of the lights from the set... which is not useful. So I put the light at the back and tried to match the flashes for the side lights.

[speedneeder]

Kenny, I didn't know the guide numbers were different between the flashes you mentioned.
If they are the same power, then the diffuser, zoom setting, and distance from subject would all make much more difference than the power you select to use. I have a couple 560's, and you select in full power, 1/2, 1/4 etc. Each of these is one stop. Soooo, if you are set at 1/2 power, and you change your aperture from 8.0 to 5.6, I would expect to get the same exposure at 1/4 power on your flash.
I am probably not understanding your question though. I don't use a light meter and talk in f-stops like I have seen some photogs do, I just take the picture and look at my histogram, which you have to do whether you have a light meter or not, and make adjustments as needed.
Is a 'flash meter' something different?

[Equilibrium8]

Kenny, I didn't know the guide numbers were different between the flashes you mentioned.
If they are the same power, then the diffuser, zoom setting, and distance from subject would all make much more difference than the power you select to use. I have a couple 560's, and you select in full power, 1/2, 1/4 etc. Each of these is one stop. Soooo, if you are set at 1/2 power, and you change your aperture from 8.0 to 5.6, I would expect to get the same exposure at 1/4 power on your flash.
I am probably not understanding your question though. I don't use a light meter and talk in f-stops like I have seen some photogs do, I just take the picture and look at my histogram, which you have to do whether you have a light meter or not, and make adjustments as needed.
Is a 'flash meter' something different?

Hi Brian
The guide numbers are completely different. The 460 uses a row of LEDs like your 560 I think, wheras the 468 has an LED screen with complete information on it like the actual f-stop value. I didn't know that the LEDs mark complete stops, I'm assuming the 460 will be the same. Thanks, that makes it easier to adjust it. The 468 has a few EV adjustments between each stop which is adjusted with the same +- buttons, the 460 has them too, but I can never remember the roundabout multi-button way of using it.

There are dedicated flash meters. I don't really know how they are different, I just came across some when I was researching light meters.

What's your opinion on the 560? They are more powerful than either of mine I think. I'm thinking of replacing my 468 with one. The 468 I have is a Mk1... I find the lack of a standby and wake-up feature on all Yongnuo Mk1 versions a serious PITA.

[speedneeder]

The 560's - no problem as a manual flash. Optical slave works very well except when mixing with preflashes from TTL flashes.
The 560 has the 8 LED's, so when I say one stop, what I mean is that 8 LED's is full power, and 7 LED's is half that, which is the same as one stop of light through an aperture of 5.6 vs 8.0. So in my experience, when I change my aperture 1 stop with the manual flash, the exposure change by one stop also. I never think of flashes in terms of f-stop - this is a foreign concept to me. I'm definitely not an expert on this!

[Equilibrium8]

The 560's - no problem as a manual flash. Optical slave works very well except when mixing with preflashes from TTL flashes.
The 560 has the 8 LED's, so when I say one stop, what I mean is that 8 LED's is full power, and 7 LED's is half that, which is the same as one stop of light through an aperture of 5.6 vs 8.0. So in my experience, when I change my aperture 1 stop with the manual flash, the exposure change by one stop also. I never think of flashes in terms of f-stop - this is a foreign concept to me. I'm definitely not an expert on this!

Yea, sure. I don't think in f-stops with the flash either. I just shoot and adjust. I thought it would be god to know the actual values of each power level on the 460 so when I want to swop flashes (which happens when I get irritated with the 468 turning off all the time) and then I can just dial in the same setting quickly. But knowing that they equal stops is fine. Thanks!

[nivaska13]

I would like to ask you I owe a CAnon 5 D and a speedlight 580 Ex, I desperately need to shoot on location and I don't have any transmiter or receiver unit, which one would you recommend? I'm in a low budget situation, I'm not too familiar with all the technical details, but I heard that is better to owe transmitters instead of receivers? I need something were if Im in a hurry situation I can pretty much relay to auto sets, no manual unless I have the time for it in a more lay back situation. Would yongnuo work with my 580Ex and my 5d? Which one of the yongnuo flashes can I used and transmitters can I use with my equipment? or Pocket wizzard is the way to go? Sorry I have to many questions! ):

[inkista]

You say you're on a low budget, but you need auto power setting capability. Sorry to tell you this, but there's no way to do this off-camera inexpensively. Your cheapest possible shot is probably the Pixel Kings or the Phottix Odins, and that would be about $150 per transceiver unit, or $300 to get your 580EX off-camera with eTTL capability.

If you want to go cheaper, you're going to HAVE to work with the flash in manual. In that case, the Cactus V5s are the low-budget choice. And when I say Manual, I mean the flash power output must be manually set on the flash's back. If by manual you meant shooting with the camera in a mode other than full Manual, you may have a very steep learning curve ahead when it comes to balancing flash against ambient.

You will need two units, one a transmitter to put on the camera's hotshoe, and one a receiver to put on the flash. A "transceiver" unit is one that can work as either a receiver or a transmitter. The Cactus V5s are transceivers.

You do not need a Yongnuo flash.

If you need pro-level quality and reliability, then PocketWizard is the way to go, but the eTTL capable triggers do have some additional issues, which is why Canon just came out with the ST-E3 and the 600EX-RT, which are probably past your budget. But that would be the ultimate way to go.
__________

In terms of the old original thread, the YN-468 is actually less powerful than the YN-460 II (which has the same power output as the YN-560). The actual measured guide numbers can be found on speedlights.net.

[Manfred M]

While I use PocketWizard myself, there have been some favourable reviews of the Yongnuo RF-602 Wireless Flash Trigger, and the price is a fraction of the PocketWizard price (i.e. in the $40 - $50 range).

Much of what you are trying to do has more to do with fiddling around with the equipment and taking test shots, rather than an exact science. Even with "better" equipment, I find myself fiddling with positioning of the units until I get an image that I like. I almost always use a diffuser on any strobe. You'd be amazed how well a few layers of Kleenex held on to your flash with a rubber band, a cut up Javex bottle or styrofoam coffee cup work versus a bare flash head.

The guide numbers on the flashes should help you get close.

[speedneeder]

I agree with Kathy completely.

Yongnuo's RF-602 is a trigger only - no ETTL and no adjusting from the camera. While full manual flash definitely has its place, so does ETTL, which is what you asked about.

[inkista]

While I use PocketWizard myself, there have been some favourable reviews of the Yongnuo RF-602 Wireless Flash Trigger, and the price is a fraction of the PocketWizard price (i.e. in the $40 - $50 range). ...

I use the RF-602s and love 'em, but they've been superseded by the Yongnuo RF-603s and Cactus V5s (about $60 for two units). The reasons I recommended the Cactus V5s over the 602s or 603s are:

Over 602s:
- Transceiver units that use standard AAA batteries
- Pass-through hotshoe on top

Over 602s & 603s:
- You can easily reach the power switch when a flash is mounted on the unit.
- The channel selection is a dial on the side, not dip-switches (and in the case of the 603, under the battery cover).
- The V5s have locking rings on the feet for added stability.

If the choice, however, is between the 602s and the Cactus V4s, go for the 602s. The 602s use 2.4GHz, not 433 MHz (better range and fewer interference issues), could be used as shutter remotes, and had a much better profile for stability (flat, rather than vertical on a plastic swivel).