There has been a few people asking about how to photograph hummingbirds, so here is a little info on how i shoot them. Mods can move this to the appropriate place.
Hummingbirds are very inquisitive little birds. The more time you spend around them, the closer you can get to them without spooking them. Just sitting near your feeders for awhile in the morning or evening will help alot. I can stand next to my feeders, and they will fly within 2 feet or less of me. The feeders i use are small single port feeders. (only hold about 3 OZ. of fluid. This keeps the nectar fresher , keeps them coming more often, and alows you to position the direction of the feeding port to get the bird facing the direction you want it to.
Where do i position my feeders?............. I like a well lit shaded area, with a crossing light. I try to keep my light behind me and to one side or the other. If its in the morning or evening, it can be in direct soft sunlight with the same light direction.
In late morning light around 8:30 to 10:00, i position my feeder under the shade of a bush, with the light coming from the side. The background is sun lit. This gives a milder backlit situation and alows you to use some fill flash to expose for your subject. You can get really good shutter speeds this way. I set my flash 2 feet from the feeder (on a tripod) and use a flash bounce card to soften the light.
Getting close is absolutely essential if you want good shots. They are tiny birds and you need to fill the frame to keep from cropping away all your resolution. I'm shooting with a canon 300 f/4L IS lens (sometimes with a TC) from 6 feet or less.(sometimes as close as 4 feet). The closer the better, as long as you have just a touch of extra room to make a minimal crop for composition.
Light is very important in any shot. For hummingbirds, you need very good light to get high shutter speeds, but not direct hard sunlight that will blow out detail on the reflective feathers. I find very bright cloudy days ideal for hummingbirds. Other than that, i like morning light, better than the evening. If your shooting in the afternoon, find a well lit area in the shade and use some fill flash if needed.
Exposure is also important. Push your exposures to the limit. (expose to the right). Most of the information your camera records, is in the right side of the histogram. The more information you record, the better your shots will be. So shoot in RAW, expose to the right, and bring your exposure back in post processing. If you underexpose, you will have more noise and less information recorded.
The 2 cameras i use are a canon 40D and a canon 1d mk II. The Lens is a Canon 300 f/4L IS, 1.4X TC and 2X TC.
In the menu of my camera, i can go to 'focus search' and disable it. This will keep your camera from searching for a focus if you miss your target. If you try and focus and can't get the dot just right, the camera will usually try and find something to focus on and cycle through the full focus range of the lens. By that time, your subject is long gone and you missed your shot. If you turn the focus search off, the camera will not search and give you enough time to get the dot on the subject and hit the shutter button again and get a focus lock. What you will have to do, is get your focus 'close' manually, and then the auto focus will take over from there. It takes a little getting used to , but helps alot.
My camera setting ................
ISO is uaually 1250. Anything more than that is a little too noisy for my taste. (at least with the equipment i have) A newer camera model can push the iso further with better results. So , push your iso as far as you can to get shutter speeds of 1/1250 or more if you can. Speeds of 1/2000 are needed to freeze the wings. I also incorporate some noise reduction in my post processing, because of the high iso's.
Focus drive..........AI Servo for flying shots and one shot for still shots. Use your focus dots to compose your shots. This will alow you to get in closer and compose the shot in camera.
Metering mode......... I usually use spot metering for most things, but for hummingbirds , i use evaluative metering. Hummingbirds are too small and fast to get the center dot on, to meter off them. Just remember if you have a bright background, your camera might be fooled into underexposing for the hummingbird. So check your histograms and use exposure compensation when needed.
Shooting Mode.........Manual. Too hard to hit the exposure lock on quick subjects. Adjust your exposure manually and keep reviewing your histograms ,making fine adjustments as needed, when light changes.
Use your focus dots to compose your image in camera. Learn how to adjust them without looking at the camera. This will alow you to get in tighter and fill the frame.
WB......Auto I shoot in RAW , so i adjust the WB in post.
Aperature..........I adjust as needed and according to the lighting conditions. Usually between f/6.3 and f/9.
Pay attention to your shooting conditions. Early morning and late evening , when shutter speeds are low, are ideal for still shots. I like to watch my feeders from a distance, and see what limbs the hummingbirds like to perch on, and then set up and wait for that shot. If the limb they use isn't ideal for a photo, I often will take a bare branch and wire tie it in a good location for them to use. They like a bare branch in a shaded area, near the feeder , so they can watch over it. Postion the branch in the right location, and they will start using it for their perch, giving you the perfect shot your after. After you find a location they like, you can change the branch , from time to time, for different shots.
Be creative...............you can hide the feeder with flower clippings. When the hummingbirds come to feed from the feeder, it looks as if they are feeding from real flowers. This will allow you to "set up" the perfect shot with a great background.