Waterfall. C&C welcome

[Andy in Mendip]

I took, I care to forget how many shots of this waterfall, this may not be the best shot , but will be happy to receive comments

Andy


Greyfield Woods by andy_mendip, on Flickr

[kdoc856]

Hi, Andy

With longer exposure shots especially, it would be helpful to post with your EXIF data. Your shutter speed and aperture are huge here, and would really effect any comments.
The small size of the image doesnt show well in the lytebox so your original shot may appear different, but it appears you have used a "tweener" shutter speed- not fast enough to give a natural look to the water, but not slow enough to give a really "silky" look.
I think you could use a touch more contrast overall and maybe a about a 1/2 stop less exposure, and that might bring out some more detail in the falls. Looks a great place to practice the waterfalls techniques. Hope this helps,

Kevin

[Andy in Mendip]

Hi Kevin,

I knew when I started to shoot I would have problems with light as this is in the middle of a wood, the EXIF data is 2 sec F/11 ISO 100.

I plan to revisit this waterfall to practice more with it also when it is not so busy with walkers.

Andy

[orlcam88]

When you go back up, try shooting it with an ND filter or circular polarizer.

btw, send new photo's on this thread to see how you progressed!

[Andy in Mendip]

Hi Orlando,

Thanks for the tip, I will do that, I hope to go back this week if I get time if not it will have to be next week, | do have to say the area at the bottom is very restricted to get a shot looking back up as the waterfall has two levels to it, this shot being at the upper of the two.

Regards

Andy

[Andy in Mendip]

All, I realise I have made mistakes with F stops, but here are a 2 more examples taken. I am on a very steep learning curve, I believe as long as you learn from the mistakes it adds to the experience.

Regards

Andy

1.

26.08.2010 / 649 by andy_mendip, on Flickr

EXIF exposure:- 1/5 secs, F/4, ISO 100 Kit lens 18-55mm

2.


26.08.2012 / 671 by andy_mendip, on Flickr

EXIF, exposure:- 0.6 secs, F/11 ISO 100 50mm lens, I think the F stop is to large but I was going for the DOF in other shots.

[Donald]

I am on a very steep learning curve, I believe as long as you learn from the mistakes it adds to the experience.

Exactly. And it's something we should never stop doing, even once we are experienced.

[Andy in Mendip]

Donald,

thank you for your comment, as ever, I am humbled by the C&C I receive, which is what makes this the site it is

[Ken Curtis]

Hi Andy.

The water in your images looks like it has a yellowish cast to it. I downloaded waterfalls 1 and 3 and then opened them in Photoshop. I opened a selective color adjustment layer, chose the white color from the drop-down choices list and dialed back the yellow slider. In the third image, I think I added a slight bit of red. Now there is less of a yellow cast to the entire image(s) and the water looks white. You might want to experiment to see the effects and find what you like.

[Polar01]

Andy: I am going to suggest you try f8 ,f11, f16, and even f22 and f29. This way you can see the difference each f-stop makes as it slows the shutter down and the resulting increase in of depth of field. Remember to set the camera to "A" apiture (I just can not spell) and use your tripod. Remember if you are shooting in RAW you can adjust the colour balance later. Also look at your histogram to make sure that you have not clipped the highlight, if you have, bring the histogram back to the left so you are not clipping the highlighs (just a slight bit will not hurt as you can adjust for that in post production). If there is light shinning on the water it is hard to not blow out the highlights, practice, practice, practice, and when you feel that you have got it practice some more, I know I do that all the time.

Cheers:

Allan