Iso 6400 with corrected image

[Dave Humphries]

I am not sure about the rules here and do not want to get into any trouble. If the Mods say it is okay I will post the links. Until then you have been PM-ed.

Hi Carl,

Yes it is OK to post the links.
If to someone elses tutorial, it'll be obvious who wrote it, but if to an image, then we ask that a credit is given to the photographer/source.

Cheers,

[Carl in Louisiana]

Hi Carl,

Yes it is OK to post the links.
If to someone elses tutorial, it'll be obvious who wrote it, but if to an image, then we ask that a credit is given to the photographer/source.

Cheers,

Thank You Dave! I will make sure credit goes to the one in the links with the settings.

[Carl in Louisiana]

Now I feel better posting links to other forums. The persons post on in camera settings is "TeamSpeed". There are three links one here on CnC and it is the one that got me interested to do more research and that is how I found the other links. The first one was started by Scott Stephen here on CnC, Thank You Scott.

Expose Left, or Expose Right (or neither?)

http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1143454/0

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/...ht=mini-review

The second and third links was sent to me in a PM from TeamSpeed after I had PMed him, many Thanks to You TeamSpeed for sharing your findings with everyone and to those who posted their workflow for PP.
There is lots of great info in all of these posts try to read all the way through them to get the most out of them.

Good Luck! I look forward to seeing many more post with images at higher ISO's. Many Thanks to Willie for inspiring me to use higher ISO's to start with when he posted his beautiful B & W's.

Carl

[Dave Humphries]

Hi Carl,

I have pasted the new picture and feedback Teamspeed provided into the first post as you requested by PM.

Cheers,

[Carl in Louisiana]

Hi Carl,

I have pasted the new picture and feedback Teamspeed provided into the first post as you requested by PM.

Cheers,

Thank You Dave,

I am certainly learning from this and just wanted to share it with others interested in high ISO shots so we all could learn.

[speedneeder]

Carl, thanks for posting some good links.
They have helped me at least be in a position to use NR to some success.
I posted a couple comparison images on my Facebook page and the early feedback favors a modest application of NR.
If I could make awesome ISO 6400 images I would be ecstatic for my hockey photography!
By the method to overexpose 2/3, I suspect that would be comparable to ISO 4000.

[Carl in Louisiana]

Your very Welcome Brian. I am glad I had the opportunity to share what I am learning with others. Your FB photo's are awesome! It is going to help me also with my indoor shooting once I get the PP down pat.

Carl, thanks for posting some good links.
They have helped me at least be in a position to use NR to some success.
I posted a couple comparison images on my Facebook page and the early feedback favors a modest application of NR.
If I could make awesome ISO 6400 images I would be ecstatic for my hockey photography!
By the method to overexpose 2/3, I suspect that would be comparable to ISO 4000.

[Teamspeed]

Carl, thanks for posting some good links.
They have helped me at least be in a position to use NR to some success.
I posted a couple comparison images on my Facebook page and the early feedback favors a modest application of NR.
If I could make awesome ISO 6400 images I would be ecstatic for my hockey photography!
By the method to overexpose 2/3, I suspect that would be comparable to ISO 4000.

Hi all, I am one of the folks that Carl has mentioned and has been in contact with, and thought I would register over here so that I can try to keep up with any questions right at the source.

Keep trying out the high ISO and various settings in your raw and then post processing. As stated over on the POTN thread, I actually remove noise differently on each color channel, since the 7D is so different on each.

For sports shots, here are some high ISO shots (6400,12800) over the years from various 7Ds I have owned.

[Scott Stephen]

@Teamspeed: WOW. Can't believe that is 6400 or 12800 on a 7D. I have the same sensor on my T3i of course, and yet I can't use anything shot at 800, even in RAW, and I can't really trust 400 sometimes if I am cropping very much at all. (On faces anyway. On other things it is easier.)

[Colin Southern]

@Teamspeed: WOW. Can't believe that is 6400 or 12800 on a 7D. I have the same sensor on my T3i of course, and yet I can't use anything shot at 800, even in RAW, and I can't really trust 400 sometimes if I am cropping very much at all. (On faces anyway. On other things it is easier.)

Scott,

Hi ISO psyches many people out.

What's actually happening is - with increasing ISO "stops" - you're actually using less and less of the sensor's potential. The sensor's noise floor remains (for all intents and purposes) the same, but the actual signal captured is less ... so the net result is that the dynamic range that the sensor is capable of capturing is reduced ... and what that in turn means is that "the higher the ISO setting used, the lower the dynamic range of the scene that can be captured, and the more critical the exposure is".

At base ISO modes (eg 100 for Canon), a normally exposed reflective scene will expose the highlights with around a 1.3 to 2 stop "safety margin". At high ISO settings you simply can't afford a 1.3 to 2 stop "safety margin" - and thus exposing to the right becomes mandatory, and you'll also be more and more limited to simple reflective scenes (eg those where the light is simply reflected off surfaces in the shot) that typically only require a 4 stop range). If the scenes have any degree of active/direct lighting (eg trying to reveal the details of a silhouetted face whilst shooting into the light - at high ISO settings - you'll be sunk.

In summary though - at high ISO settings - push your exposures to the limit (but then reduce them in post production. It's all about signal-to-noise ratios. The more signal for a constant amount of noise, the better.

The other thing people forget is that any noise created using a high ISO mode is still very VERY small noise - and most of it gets sampled out when a photo is down'sampled for online display. Or put simply, "forget about what an image looks like at 100% magnification on-screen" ... you only need to worry about what the ENTIRE image looks like in it's finished form.

As a rule, high ISO modes don't cause noise per-se - the noise is usually made visible in post-production when under-exposure is corrected, thus raising the level of noise also, to a point where it's visible.

Hope this helps!

[Scott Stephen]

Thanks, Colin. I will keep that in mind about the exacting exposures and about the way things look worse at 100% mag on screen.
Funny how infrequently we actually make prints anymore, isn't it. Far fewer than 1% of all the shots I take ever get printed. Of those, 99% are just 5 x 7 or smaller. The rest go nowhere, or get thumbnailed on Facebook or something.

And yet I do get pretty worked up about how things look on my 22" monitor when I have also zoomed it in to ludicrous magnification to look for noise and sharpness. Maybe I need to have a glass of wine while doing my post work.