Antarctic Adventure

[Markvetnz]

[Dave Humphries]

This thread really makes me want to go (I have also watched a TV documentary on such a trip), but I know my body/health isn't good in the cold - and by that I mean below +5 celsius so I'd stand no chance!

I know from shooting in slightly sub-zero temps here that I don't enjoy it, so I'll have to remain a distant spectator of your excellent adventure.

Many, many thanks for sharing with us Mark.

Cheers,

[graynomad]

As someone currently wrestling with the task of justifying the expense of one of these trips I'm glued to every word

[Teton Chuck]

Mark, This series is very enjoyable. My wife and I did a similar trip a few years ago, but later in the season. My camera wasn't very good and my photography skills were even worse, but looking back at some of my photos and seeing yours it is clear that we took many similar shots with very different snow conditions. I have one photo of my wife standing among the bones of the whale skeleton that you found under snow - for example. Please keep this series going. It's bringing back many good memories.

[Markvetnz]

As someone currently wrestling with the task of justifying the expense of one of these trips I'm glued to every word

Rob - like Nke say - just do it! You will never regret the decision. I am going to go back, and I want to do the South Georgia leg next time. I cannot recommend Aurora expeditions highly enough. Definitely more than just sight seeing.

[Markvetnz]

Mark, This series is very enjoyable. My wife and I did a similar trip a few years ago, but later in the season. My camera wasn't very good and my photography skills were even worse, but looking back at some of my photos and seeing yours it is clear that we took many similar shots with very different snow conditions. I have one photo of my wife standing among the bones of the whale skeleton that you found under snow - for example. Please keep this series going. It's bringing back many good memories.

Hi Chuck

I don't know whether we were lucky or unlucky to have so much snow. It provided for fantastic scenery but it also meant that many old whaling artifacts and relics were covered and of course the penguins were way behind scedule, except up North. I took some shots of the Governoren, a rusting whaling ship that caught fire and was scuttled in 1916. My shots all have heaps of snow and ice all over the place. All the other shots I've seen of this boat have it surrounded by open water. I think overall I probably got better shots becaue there was so much snow and ice present. I'll be going back. My brother's main bucket list item is to get down there.

[graynomad]

just do it! You will never regret the decision.

True enough.

I love Africa and am thinking of returning there as well. Truth is I can probably spend 2 months in Kenya (and be warm) for the same cost as a 2-week Antarctic trip. Photo-wise I'm comparing apples with water melons of course, but they are both great experiences.

do the South Georgia leg next time.

One of the all-time must-see places IMO.

[Markvetnz]

True enough.

I love Africa and am thinking of returning there as well. Truth is I can probably spend 2 months in Kenya (and be warm) for the same cost as a 2-week Antarctic trip. Photo-wise I'm comparing apples with water melons of course, but they are both great experiences.


One of the all-time must-see places IMO.

Rob - you are right about Africa. I also want to go back but I'm a bit wary of Kenya. I might go to Tanzania or just go to Kruger in South Africa. It's a pity that we can't just hop on a plane and go to Antarctica - actually I'm really glad we can't do that. If we could it would just end up being buggered like every other place human beings have tried to exploit. I know it's a lot of money but it was really worth it. I paid for 2!!. If you aren't planning on taking your other half you are already ahead of the 8 ball. The good thing is that once you've paid you really can't spend any money down there, unless you plan on a dozen beers a night.

[graynomad]

I've just spent the last 2 days researching Kenya, I think it's OK, you just have to watch where you go. I'm really only interested in the Mara and that's well away from the trouble spots.

Kruger would be my next choice, but I (used to) know the Mara area and am keen to return although it's often better leaving good memories be.

Re Antarctica, I'll look into Aurora, you seem happy with them.

[orlcam88]

I'm enjoying those "night" scenes. Beautiful and cold!!!

[ScoutR]

Mark, this thread is Awesome. Thank you so much for sharing.

Wendy

[Markvetnz]

2 December 2012


Cutting our way through sea ice in the Butler Passage

Neko Harbour 64deg 51min South 62deg 24min West


Polar Pioneer in Neko Harbour

After our previous evening’s BBQ and after a few hardy/silly souls camped the night out on the ice we set sail for Neko Harbour, another deep water anchorage. We sail through beautifully calm waters with a magical blue sky overhead and it’s not too cold to boot. We’re getting near the end of our trip and many are out on the bow just taking it all in.


Pure deep glacial ice - thousands of years old perhaps?


An upturned iceberg - looks like scalloped sand dunes

Once more, plenty of snow and yet another Gentoo breeding colony greet us. I get some pretty neat shots of the kayakers, the ship and Gentoos as they leave the water. On the way here we see a colony of these industrious birds breeding at the top of a hill. This means a few hundred metres backwards and forwards to the water to fetch pebbles one at a time to build the nest. No wonder they resort to thieving pebbles from their neighbours.


Afternoon paddle in Neko Harbour

At Neko I walk quite close to the face of a very active glacier and witness for the first time the groans, cracks and rumblings of a glacier. Loud cracks like rifle shots emanate from deep within the bowels of the ice mass. There is an occasional sound like a train going through a station at speed, as ice and snow collapse and crumble. I witness a minor calving and the resultant wave it creates.


A large wave is created as a slab of ice crashes into the sea - Neko Glacier

What an experience. Just to sit there in otherwise total silence and experience nature in its rawest essence. A good way to reboot the soul!


Enterprise Island 64deg 32min South 62eg 00min West



Mid afternoon we make our way further north to Enterprise Island. This time we are greeted by copious amounts brash ice, growlers and ice bergs both small and huge. At times we have to force our way through the ice. The weather is spectacular. We glide into Foyn Harbour and find the rusting wreck of the Governoernen, a Norwegian whaling ship deliberately run aground in 1916 after a fire broke out on board. Almost 100 years in the same place and it is pretty much intact. Antarctic Terns use it as a base to feed and breed. This ship provides for some of the best photos of the trip.









Mating Terns

A shag or a Tern?

On the way back to the ship we come across a massive pyramid of an iceberg. It has odd tide lines on multiple sides indicating that it has toppled over at some stage. Electric blues, rippled reflections and ice everywhere make for great photography.



Early evening and we’re back on board for a well earned dinner. Tomorrow we head north for the Drake Passage (heaven forbid) and home, with hopefully one more spectacular stop.

[gregj1763]

Amazing, just amazing photo's Mark.

[jeeperman]

Impressive, Mark. You have certainly made great use of the opportunities afforded you this trip.

[MilT0s]

Amazing, impressive, so can I add fantastic? Awesome? Excellent?

At least many thanks for sharing your adventure with us.

[Donald]

Just back home after having being away at my dad's. Christmas and New Year cancelled as a result of my dad being ill (he's now in hospital and I'm not sure where circumstances are going to lead over the next 7-14 days). So just trying to catch up. Will take time to study these latest (for me) glorious images later this evening.

[smcrews]

What a fantastic set!

[Markvetnz]

Just back home after having being away at my dad's. Christmas and New Year cancelled as a result of my dad being ill (he's now in hospital and I'm not sure where circumstances are going to lead over the next 7-14 days). So just trying to catch up. Will take time to study these latest (for me) glorious images later this evening.

All the best for the new year Donald. I'm sorry to hear about your Dad.I hope things go well for all of you.

[Tony M]

Hi Mark,

I have just discovered this thread today, after a few weeks' absence from CiC, and have read it all in one sitting. It was a fascinating and enjoyable read; your writing style made it all the more entertaining.

I would love to do a trip like this. I'm pretty bad when it comes to sea-sickness, so I'll have to develop some sea legs first, or it could end up being a very expensive two weeks in bed.

You must be looking forward to a break after writing your travel diary, but I have a bunch of questions for you. Sorry.

I found it interesting looking at the EXIF information in the photos to see what decisions you made about the exposure. It would be interesting to know what guided your choice; for example, shutter speeds were quite fast, typically < 1/400s, even when not photographing moving subjects. I suppose you were the moving subject in many of them. You used manual exposure almost exclusively, with Matrix metering mode set. I don't often shoot like that and wonder if you were using the metering mode to guide you, and simply over-exposed to account for the amount of white ice and snow. You mentioned the challenges of dealing with dark water and white surfaces; what did you do? (I shoot mostly landscape and architecture, so I haven't encountered problems this severe.)

And there's the post-processing. 5000 photos is a lot to PP. You just couldn't do what I do - slowly and painfully decide how to PP each photo. Perhaps you did for a select few. What did you do?

Your lenses had focal length ranges of 16-35mm and 70-200mm, a fixed 400mm and a 1.4x teleconverter. Did you miss having the 36-70mm and 280-400mm ranges? (It doesn't look like it.) Are you happy with using the teleconverter instead of using a tele zoom lens between 200-280mm? I ask because I've started thinking about upgrading my lenses over the next year or so (I take ages to decide, mainly because of the cost and wondering if I'm worthy...) and the idea of a teleconverter is interesting.

Just when you thought you'd finished eh! Well, this is a learning forum.

Tony

[Mike Buckley]

Another great set. My favorites are of the ship cutting through the ice and the iceberg in front of the abandoned ship. Well done!