DSLR Issue

[Slabstick]

Larry,
Yes you are correct many people keep a UV filter on the lens to protect it.
How are you finding the forum?
John

Finding it helpful, ever heard of brain overload? Lol

[Slabstick]

Larry,
Yes you are correct many people keep a UV filter on the lens to protect it.
How are you finding the forum?
John

How much can I expect to pay for a UV filter? Don't want to get ripped off.

[JPS]

Finding it helpful, ever heard of brain overload? Lol

I know what you mean, but it will all come together, I promise.
Just keep some 'Asprin tablets' in your pocket to help with the brain overload.

[JPS]

How much can I expect to pay for a UV filter? Don't want to get ripped off.

I paid about £40 for mine, just make sure you get a decent one. Remember, any poor quality glass in front of your lens will have an impact on your pictures.

[Slabstick]

This is correct, in Manual nothing should be changing, when you set Shutter speed / Aperture they should remain constant.
John

What's happening is... I Set my ISO to 100 or 200 then, I set my aperture to 4. Then as I set my shutter speed, "I am in live mode" I can see the light diminish as I turn my shutter speed up "faster". I don't think I have anything on auto. I can go ahead and adjust for a fast shutter speed then, I have to manually raise my ISO to get my light back. I'm just assuming that all this is normal.

[Slabstick]

I know what you mean, but it will all come together, I promise.
Just keep some 'Asprin tablets' in your pocket to help with the brain overload.

Sometimes I'm kind of thick headed. But once I grasp it. I'll have it. Always been that way with me. It's like your on a new job. Boy it's hard but after you've been on the same job for awhile it gets much easier. You even find short cuts and easier ways to get the same results.

[JPS]

What's happening is... I Set my ISO to 100 or 200 then, I set my aperture to 4. Then as I set my shutter speed, "I am in live mode" I can see the light diminish as I turn my shutter speed up "faster". I don't think I have anything on auto. I can go ahead and adjust for a fast shutter speed then, I have to manually raise my ISO to get my light back. I'm just assuming that all this is normal.

Larry,
IMO this is totally normal.
As you increase the shutter speed the shutter opens and closes much quicker, therefore only a small amount of light is let in and onto the sensor. To compensate you increase the ISO. If you slow down the shuuter speed the shutter stays open longer letting more light in and onto the sensor. If you do this then you would normally reduce the ISO because more light is getting in and you don't need the ISO so high.

[JPS]

Sometimes I'm kind of thick headed. But once I grasp it. I'll have it. Always been that way with me. It's like your on a new job. Boy it's hard but after you've been on the same job for awhile it gets much easier. You even find short cuts and easier ways to get the same results.

The good thing my friend is there's no rush; keep asking questions; over & over if needed, that's what we are here for.

[Slabstick]

Larry,
IMO this is totally normal.
As you increase the shutter speed the shutter opens and closes much quicker, therefore only a small amount of light is let in and onto the sensor. To compensate you increase the ISO. If you slow down the shuuter speed the shutter stays open longer letting more light in and onto the sensor. If you do this then you would normally reduce the ISO because more light is getting in and you don't need the ISO so high.

Ok, I read somewhere that there are no stupid questions. I'm about to destroy that concept. When you set your shutter speed how does the camera know since the shutter is actually closed and there is no light coming in at the moment?

[JPS]

Ok, I read somewhere that there are no stupid questions. I'm about to destroy that concept. When you set your shutter speed how does the camera know since the shutter is actually closed and there is no light coming in at the moment?

Inside the camera is a tiny computer that takes the shutter speed you have dialed in say 1/125 of a second and then send an electronic signal which then opens the shuuter for 1/125 of a second as requested. Basically its opens the shutter and the computer counts very, very fast to the speed you have selected and then the signal is turned off and the shuuter closes. If that makes sense.

[Slabstick]

Inside the camera is a tiny computer that take the shutter speed you have dialed in say 1/125 of a second and then send an electronic signal which then opens the shuuter for 1/125 of a second a requested. Basically its opens the shutter and the computer counts very, very fast to the speed you have selected and then the signal is turned off and the shuuter closes. If that makes sense.

Ahhh see? You do learn something every day. Thank you.

[Slabstick]

Ahhh see? You do learn something every day. Thank you.

Can you critique my photos? Let me have it. I need to know from someone that knows what they are looking at.

[JPS]

Can you critique my photos? Let me have it. I need to know from someone that knows what they are looking at.

I would have no problem at all in doing that. What I would say is that it's best to post them in the 'Nature & Architecture' area or the 'People & Pets' area, depending on what type of picture you are posting. Then all the members can give advice. If you are not ready for everyones comments yet then I will happily do my best to help, but the Guy's & Girls here would be more than happy to help.
John

[Slabstick]

I would have no problem at all in doing that. What I would say is that it's best to post them in the 'Nature & Architecture' area or the 'People & Pets' area, depending on what type of picture you are posting. Then all the members can give advice. If you are not ready for everyones comments yet then I will happily do my best to help, but the Guy's & Girls here would be more than happy to help.
John

Thanks for everything. I posted some photos where you suggested in nature.

[rpcrowe]

Here's a tip which may have other photographers yelling and screaming...

If you are not sure how to set your camera, try this...

For outdoor work in bright conditions set your ISO as low as it will go! That is ISO 100 for some cameras and ISO 200 for other cameras.

Set your exposure to Programmed and shoot!

Programmed exposure mode will select a shutter speed and f/stop combination which will provide decent exposure.

If you decide that you want a different f/stop or shutter speed, it is easy to adjust either the aperture or shutter speed. When adjusting one or the other, the corresponding aperture or shutter speed will be selected.

For darker lighting conditions, raise your ISO to 400 or so.

By adjusting either the shutter speed or aperture while in programmed mode you will see how the corresponding f/stop or shutter speed will be selected. It is a good way to learn the interrelationship between f/stop and shutter speed.

If you are in bright sunlight and have selected ISO 100 and have set your camera to programmed mode, you will probably get a exposure of around 1/500 second at f/8. You can then adjust the shutter speed or f/stop within that programmed exposure and will be able to select 1/125 second @ f/16, 1/250 second @ f/11, 1/500 second @ f/8, 1/1,000 second @ f/5.6 and 1/2,000 second @ f/4. All of these combinations will give you correct exposure. BTW: If you select a shutter speed or f/stop which is between the examples I have given, the camera will select the appropriate corresponding midway shutter speed or f/stop.

The exposure will be the same but, difference is that wider f/stops (smaller f/numbers) will provide less depth of field (the distance in front of the point focused on to the distance to the rear of the point focused on which is in acceptable focus). The faster shutter speeds will stop subject motion and will compensate for some camera shake...

[Slabstick]

Here's a tip which may have other photographers yelling and screaming...

If you are not sure how to set your camera, try this...

For outdoor work in bright conditions set your ISO as low as it will go! That is ISO 100 for some cameras and ISO 200 for other cameras.

Set your exposure to Programmed and shoot!

Programmed exposure mode will select a shutter speed and f/stop combination which will provide decent exposure.

If you decide that you want a different f/stop or shutter speed, it is easy to adjust either the aperture or shutter speed. When adjusting one or the other, the corresponding aperture or shutter speed will be selected.

For darker lighting conditions, raise your ISO to 400 or so.

By adjusting either the shutter speed or aperture while in programmed mode you will see how the corresponding f/stop or shutter speed will be selected. It is a good way to learn the interrelationship between f/stop and shutter speed.

If you are in bright sunlight and have selected ISO 100 and have set your camera to programmed mode, you will probably get a exposure of around 1/500 second at f/8. You can then adjust the shutter speed or f/stop within that programmed exposure and will be able to select 1/125 second @ f/16, 1/250 second @ f/11, 1/500 second @ f/8, 1/1,000 second @ f/5.6 and 1/2,000 second @ f/4. All of these combinations will give you correct exposure. BTW: If you select a shutter speed or f/stop which is between the examples I have given, the camera will select the appropriate corresponding midway shutter speed or f/stop.

The exposure will be the same but, difference is that wider f/stops (smaller f/numbers) will provide less depth of field (the distance in front of the point focused on to the distance to the rear of the point focused on which is in acceptable focus). The faster shutter speeds will stop subject motion and will compensate for some camera shake...

Ok, thank you. I'll try that. I can see how you could get a good correlation on all your settings. Great idea.

[Manfred M]

Ok, I did. The filter is a Polarized filter that I have been reading about. I went to our local Camera supply and the man only confirmed that in lighter situations the filter will get deeper and richer color. I realize I shouldn't leave it on all the time. Is there a protective lens cover that I should buy? Like a UV cover?

I'm probably one of the few photographers that disagrees with this statement.

When it comes to shooting outdoors in reasonable light levels I rarely shoot without a polarizing filter. Even on a cloudy day, you can get a much crisper looking shot as you can use it to reduce the reflection on any non-metallic surface such as water and leaves. The only time I actually remove it is when I am shooting with a fairly wide-angle lens and I am concerned about getting banding in the sky.

This is a trick I picked up from a well known local nature photographer. He leaves polarizers on all the time rather than the UV or clear filters that other photographers use. I've started doing the same thing. I find that if the light gets too low and I don't have a tripod along, I will remove it, otherwise I will switch to shooting off a tripod for landscape work.

[Manfred M]

Inside the camera is a tiny computer that takes the shutter speed you have dialed in say 1/125 of a second and then send an electronic signal which then opens the shuuter for 1/125 of a second as requested. Basically its opens the shutter and the computer counts very, very fast to the speed you have selected and then the signal is turned off and the shuuter closes. If that makes sense.

That has to be one of the most unique explanations I've ever read as to how a shutter works...

[JPS]

That has to be one of the most unique explanations I've ever read as to how a shutter works...

[Melkus]

Larry I would not worry to much at this point in time about things like correct exposure, yes it's always best to get it right in camera if you can but all of this can be corrected in pp (Post-production ) If you not got any photo editing software yet then you may need to think about this. As I see it your job right now is to understand your camera and what all the settings do and how they work together also to lean about things like the exposure triangle or the depth of field all of these tutorials can be found right here and there are many videos on line that you can watch as well. I know it can be over whelming but take your time and just enjoy this great hobby