DSLR Issue

[Slabstick]

I'm probably one of the few photographers that disagrees with this statement.

When it comes to shooting outdoors in reasonable light levels I rarely shoot without a polarizing filter. Even on a cloudy day, you can get a much crisper looking shot as you can use it to reduce the reflection on any non-metallic surface such as water and leaves. The only time I actually remove it is when I am shooting with a fairly wide-angle lens and I am concerned about getting banding in the sky.

This is a trick I picked up from a well known local nature photographer. He leaves polarizers on all the time rather than the UV or clear filters that other photographers use. I've started doing the same thing. I find that if the light gets too low and I don't have a tripod along, I will remove it, otherwise I will switch to shooting off a tripod for landscape work.

Thanks, ill remember that. The man I buy my equipment from sort of told me the same. He's an instructor for the store actually the owner as well. I do see however if you already have low light conditions a polarizer would hinder getting the right light if you need it. Thanks for your input I greatly appreciate it.

[Melkus]

A polarizing filter can be a wonderful tool to use but there is times that you may not want it like taking photos of a beautiful sunset. A lot of the color seen at sunset comes from light bouncing off of smog or particles in the air. As the polarizer’s job is to block reflected light, them beautiful colors you get at sun set will disappear as well.

Also remember for a polarizer to do it’s best work is when the lens is pointed 90 degrees away from the light source. The easiest trick to finding that sweet spot is to make the letter L with one hand and point your thumb at the sun. Then look to where your pointer finger points, rotating your wrist as needed. This is where a polarizer will have maximum impact. This is not to say all photos taken with a polarizer need to face this direction. Often your subject matter will not be in this optimal path. It’s more of a rule of thumb for finding the sweet spot.

[Macmahon]

Hello,
I'm new here and have been looking this site over. I like it. I have a question but not sure just exactly how to ask it. So, I'll just explain the issue I'm having and the question will reveal itself... I hope. I'm pretty new to the DSLR camera. I have no training. So, I must rely on self taught lessons, Internet, etc... Here's my issue. When I am out taking photos " mostly landscapes" I have a problem getting my lighting or exposure just right. I understand that Aperture is key as well as ISO, and shutter speed. When I set my Aperture to say around 4 "which on this particular lens" is as far as I can go. My ISO is at 100 or sometimes 200. Why is it that I can not set my camera to a very fast shutter speed. The faster I try to set it, I can see my exposure getting darker and darker as I move my shutter speed faster. This happens automatically. Is it supposed to since I am on "M"? I realize I can raise my ISO but doesn't that create noise? Maybe it has to do with my lens? I have the 58 mm lens that came with my camera. "Canon T3i 600D". I'll start with this and I'm sure ill have more questions. Thanks

Hi Larry

If you're in manual mode ('M') what I think you're describing is exactly what should happen! You've fixed your aperture, and chosen a particular ISO so that as you increase the shutter speed (shorten how long the shutter is open) less and less light is captured, so the image will darken. In manual mode, having set the aperture and ISO the camera (maker!) expects you to adjust the shutter speed until the exposure indicator is 'in the middle' (if that's where you want it) ie until the image is properly exposed.

FWIW I agree with the poster who suggested using 'Av' - a semi automatic mode in which you choose the aperture and let the camera automatically choose the correct shutter speed for a good exposure - until you get the hang of what's going on. Makes life easier and you still have the fun of making photographs!

Cheers

Tim (McMahon - no relation?)

Edit: Larry, I apologise. I see that you've had this answer several times over. I did not read far enough down the thread.

[rawill]

lso remember for a polarizer to do it’s best work is when the lens is pointed 90 degrees away from the light source. The easiest trick to finding that sweet spot is to make the letter L with one hand and point your thumb at the sun. Then look to where your pointer finger points, rotating your wrist as needed. This is where a polarizer will have maximum impact.

Interesting comment, I was told that the sun should be over my left shoulder, so that is nearly 180 degrees.
I will try your trick.

[rawill]

Here's a tip which may have other photographers yelling and screaming...

If you are not sure how to set your camera, try this...

For outdoor work in bright conditions set your ISO as low as it will go! That is ISO 100 for some cameras and ISO 200 for other cameras.

Set your exposure to Programmed and shoot!

Programmed exposure mode will select a shutter speed and f/stop combination which will provide decent exposure.

If you decide that you want a different f/stop or shutter speed, it is easy to adjust either the aperture or shutter speed. When adjusting one or the other, the corresponding aperture or shutter speed will be selected.

For darker lighting conditions, raise your ISO to 400 or so.

By adjusting either the shutter speed or aperture while in programmed mode you will see how the corresponding f/stop or shutter speed will be selected. It is a good way to learn the interrelationship between f/stop and shutter speed.

If you are in bright sunlight and have selected ISO 100 and have set your camera to programmed mode, you will probably get a exposure of around 1/500 second at f/8. You can then adjust the shutter speed or f/stop within that programmed exposure and will be able to select 1/125 second @ f/16, 1/250 second @ f/11, 1/500 second @ f/8, 1/1,000 second @ f/5.6 and 1/2,000 second @ f/4. All of these combinations will give you correct exposure. BTW: If you select a shutter speed or f/stop which is between the examples I have given, the camera will select the appropriate corresponding midway shutter speed or f/stop.

The exposure will be the same but, difference is that wider f/stops (smaller f/numbers) will provide less depth of field (the distance in front of the point focused on to the distance to the rear of the point focused on which is in acceptable focus). The faster shutter speeds will stop subject motion and will compensate for some camera shake...

Many thanks,

I have read and read, but did not realise I could make the changes you have listed above.
This make the camera an adjustable auto setting and is a great little learning tool.

I might even try this setting when doing motorsport this weekend.

[jcuknz]

If you are shooting motorsport you will probably need to watch your shutter speed and ensure it is reasonably high at least 1/125 if not 1/250 or 1/500 even 1/1000 .. depends on how far away the moving cars are. This will mean you may need to raise the ISO and with a modern DSLR you should be able to go to 800 ISO and still get good results. In my book in considering the varying paramenters I believe a sharp image is better than a blurry one ... they are for the artie artie freeks

If it is a 'bad light day' there is a technique you can try and that is to pan/track with the car and a moderate shutter speed will capture the car as a sharp object but the background will be blurred which gives the feeling of speed to the car image Some use this technique even on good days.

[rawill]

I believe a sharp image is better than a blurry one ... they are for the artie artie freeks

If it is a 'bad light day' there is a technique you can try and that is to pan/track with the car and a moderate shutter speed will capture the car as a sharp object but the background will be blurred which gives the feeling of speed to the car image Some use this technique even on good days.

Maybe I am an artie farty freek!

I do the low shutter speed pan shots, on a bright light day or bad light day.
I want to get the "speed shots". IMO anything else is P/S.
A racing car, frozen in time with a 500 or 1000 shutter speed does nothing for me.

When I see those kind of photos in print media I think to myself the photographer hasn't even tried.

I haven't yet found a way to make the wheels spin and have the car and background sharp.

A young racer used one of my speedshots of him in a Formula Renault on his Facebook page, and I think also in his Motor racing CV.



However, the shot is over exposed and needs some work, but I can't find the original.
I am going ot have to reshoot it sometime.

[jcuknz]

I'm not calling you an AAF Robin Just suggesting for when things are not going to be right it is better to get a sharp shot with poor colour than a blurred correctly exposed shot ... what you are doing is anothe matter completely ...I wonder if this is the effect you are after?

Firstly used curves bringing bottom left point to the right along the bottom line[ which darkens and increases contrast a bit], then selected the body of the car and used less brightness in brightness/contrast tool. Finally selected the near wheels and applied motion blurr at 3pm on the dial.

You could do better with the original file I expect

[rawill]

I like what you did, you certainly improved the shot.
It just shows what a bit of knowledge and time can do.

I think I shot this at S80. I also wish I could find the original.
I have been practicing my panning to get the car in sharp focus, and filling the photo with a little space left on the left for the car to drive into, I find it quite challenging.

I should start a new thread with some of my experiments from this morning.

[rawill]

rpcrowe

I found with my D70s that when I set it to P, then set the speed, I still got an alteration in speed that I had not programmed it.

It was sunny and I was at the motor race track, see my motorsport thread.
I think maybe I needed to set the EC to a V low setting.

Anyway, another day to experiment tomorrow.

[Slabstick]

Larry I would not worry to much at this point in time about things like correct exposure, yes it's always best to get it right in camera if you can but all of this can be corrected in pp (Post-production ) If you not got any photo editing software yet then you may need to think about this. As I see it your job right now is to understand your camera and what all the settings do and how they work together also to lean about things like the exposure triangle or the depth of field all of these tutorials can be found right here and there are many videos on line that you can watch as well. I know it can be over whelming but take your time and just enjoy this great hobby

Sorry this is so late. Thanks so much. Your right...overwhelming. But! I do have time, need to just take a deep breath, listen to what you guys and gals are saying and just enjoy and learn. Thanks for making this forum enjoyable.

[Slabstick]

A polarizing filter can be a wonderful tool to use but there is times that you may not want it like taking photos of a beautiful sunset. A lot of the color seen at sunset comes from light bouncing off of smog or particles in the air. As the polarizer’s job is to block reflected light, them beautiful colors you get at sun set will disappear as well.

Also remember for a polarizer to do it’s best work is when the lens is pointed 90 degrees away from the light source. The easiest trick to finding that sweet spot is to make the letter L with one hand and point your thumb at the sun. Then look to where your pointer finger points, rotating your wrist as needed. This is where a polarizer will have maximum impact. This is not to say all photos taken with a polarizer need to face this direction. Often your subject matter will not be in this optimal path. It’s more of a rule of thumb for finding the sweet spot.

Great tip. Ill remember that.

[Slabstick]

Many thanks,

I have read and read, but did not realise I could make the changes you have listed above.
This make the camera an adjustable auto setting and is a great little learning tool.

I might even try this setting when doing motorsport this weekend.

Thank you very much for this. I'm going to have to write all this down and put it in my notes. Great help, thanks