Portraits and sports, best combination???

[megrag]

Hi my name is Greg.I currently have a Canon P&S(A620) and want to get DSLR.This will be my first post and it is for advice on what combination of equipment would be best. As it stands now, moneywise, I will be able to get either a 7D and one L lens(70-200f2.8) and one prime(50f1.4). OR a 50D and a 17-55(or a couple of non L primes) and the above mentioned L. Any opinions or recommendations as to which would be the best option. The thing that is helping to muddle the pool is the rebate on the Pixma Pro 9000Mk that i can get with the 50D. I have read some reviews about the 50D that has cast some doubt on whether i want to go that route, but the printer is a big plus I think. Thanks for any advice you might have.
Greg

[KentDub]

Hi megrag, welcome to CiC!

While I can't comment on the bodies too much, your lens choice is ideal. I have the 50f/1.4 and love it - the 70-200 f/2.8L is the next thing on my list to pickup. I own the Pixma Pro 9000MkII and it is an amazing printer - I ended up getting the 5dmkII camera which didn't have the rebate for the printer - but the printer itsself had a standalone rebate (though not as much). Don't let the rebate sway you either way - pick the body off of the specs and how they relate to what you want to do. I would recommend that printer any day of the week though

Don't forget to budget for the accessories (i.e. tripod and external flash)!

Hope this gets you started, I'm sure others will be here soon to share their advice

[megrag]

Hi megrag, welcome to CiC!

While I can't comment on the bodies too much, your lens choice is ideal. I have the 50f/1.4 and love it - the 70-200 f/2.8L is the next thing on my list to pickup. I own the Pixma Pro 9000MkII and it is an amazing printer - I ended up getting the 5dmkII camera which didn't have the rebate for the printer - but the printer itsself had a standalone rebate (though not as much). Don't let the rebate sway you either way - pick the body off of the specs and how they relate to what you want to do. I would recommend that printer any day of the week though

Don't forget to budget for the accessories (i.e. tripod and external flash)!

Hope this gets you started, I'm sure others will be here soon to share their advice

Thanks KentDub. I have read some great things about the printer. Glad it is as advertised
Greg

[William W]

I will be able to get either a 7D and one L lens(70-200f2.8) and one prime(50f1.4). OR a 50D and a 17-55(or a couple of non L primes) and the above mentioned L. Any opinions or recommendations as to which would be the best option. [For a combination of Sport and Portraiture] The thing that is helping to muddle the pool is the rebate on the Pixma Pro 9000Mk that i can get with the 50D.

Welcome,


> What Sport(s) do you intend to Photograph?

> Will you use the Printer? (i.e. was any printer on your “to buy” list - or have you succumb to a marketing ploy?


***

On your options so far without answers to my questions:

1.> The EF 70 to 200F/2.8 L IS USM is a better choice for the zoom, unless you are quite specifically assured you will not ever need the IS function – (very few people are ever 100% sure – trust me)

2.> Any APS-C format (“crop”) camera (like the 50D - or otherwise) forming a kit with just these two zooms:

EF-S 17 to 55 F/2.8 IS USM

EF 70 to 200F/2.8 L IS USM

will be far more flexible for general Sport and Portraits, than a camera matched with a 50mm Prime and a 70 to 200 zoom.

NOTE: Just confirming - with the 50D the lens you can afford is the
17 -55 . . . and not the EF-S 18 to 55F/3.5-F5.6IS ? ? ?

I look forward to your answers.

WW

[megrag]

Welcome,

> What Sport(s) do you intend to Photograph?

> Will you use the Printer? (i.e. was any printer on your “to buy” list - or have you succumb to a marketing ploy?

On your options so far without answers to my questions:

1.> The EF 70 to 200F/2.8 L IS USM is a better choice for the zoom, unless you are quite specifically assured you will not ever need the IS function – (very few people are ever 100% sure – trust me)

2.> Any APS-C format (“crop”) camera (like the 50D - or otherwise) forming a kit with just these two zooms:

EF-S 17 to 55 F/2.8 IS USM

EF 70 to 200F/2.8 L IS USM

will be far more flexible for general Sport and Portraits, than a camera matched with a 50mm Prime and a 70 to 200 zoom.

NOTE: Just confirming - with the 50D the lens you can afford is the
17 -55 . . . and not the EF-S 18 to 55F/3.5-F5.6IS ? ? ?

I look forward to your answers.


WW

****I would like to be able to do basketball and night time football. All the high schools around here play on Friday nights, and possibly some drag racing.
****I would like to be able to print at home but it is not an absolute necessity to begin with. I have no photo printer at the moment. It would definitely be a plus to be able to print at home , as I live in a rural area; about a 25 minute drive to town.Do you print yourself or do you use a lab? Maybe I could use an online service, but sending large files seems to be a hassle also.
****. Unfortunately the 70-200 IS would be a bit more than I can afford along with the 17-55. . My main concern was with the 50D. It has received what I would call mixed reviews. Any experience with this camera?? The 7D with the higher continuous shooting mode and the video is the major appeal in terms of bodies.( This may actually be the marketing ploy I have a weakness for) Seems to be a bit better on noise also.
****Thank you William . Your response is appreciated. This purchase may well be my last major camera purchase, so I want to be happy with what I get.

[William W]

I would like to be able to do basketball and night time football.

High School Gymnasia are notorious for poor light. It is likely you will find F/2.8 will be too slow or just at the limit at ISO3200 to give you enough shutter speed to pull clean shots consistently – so I suggest you not be thinking that either zoom will be the “ant’s pants” in all situations for low light sport.

High School Football fields (here) are worse than Gyms in so far as the lighting is “in pockets” – near the goal line can be +4EV to the sideline at the centre of the field . . . again F/2.8 will be at the limit.

Re Drag Racing – that is a sport where Panning IS can be useful.

In both situations (BBall and Football) the ability to roam is exceptionally valuable – do not underestimate how important it is and how much it can affect your ability to get clean images.

If you have licence to move, a Fast Prime can become you very best friend – especially if you are looking for shots for one particular team – because you can hang around nearer their scoring or action zone - for the whole game – moving with the team.

If I were selecting lenses solely for BBall, and with a notion for a budget - I would choose from the EF35F/2; EF50F1.4; EF 85F/1.8. (The EF50F1.8MkII is a good lens too). I would likely get all three FL’s . . . but the choice could be narrowed down to two or one by knowing what access and movement ability you will have.

On the other hand - it is totally silly to think of buying a couple of Short Primes, if you will be relegated to the Grandstand at the side of the Gym, 60ft from the action – because in that scenario you will need the 70 to 200, but you might need to pump to ISO6400 to get any acceptable Tv.

SO – when considering your cameras - I would be looking at ISO capacity and the quality at the top end of the ISO.

BTW frame rate is not important to me at all: 3 to 5 FPS is fine for the sports you mentioned – it is good discipline - in both sports the understanding of the sport is important – I think the last thing you want is 10 frames in the buffer waiting . . . and you miss the clincher.

I would challenge you to shoot 1 frame only at first - it will sharpen your: framing skill; shot anticipation: and sport’s intuition.

BTW the 85F/1.8 is a very handy lens for field sports when shooting in poor light if you can run the sideline or (especially) if you can be at the scoring end (head on to the players).

The 85F/1.8 gives you 1 1/3 stops more than the F/2.8 zoom . . . and, when shooting head on you can often manage a stop slower Tv, before motion blur detracts from the image – so the 85F/1.8 and using a good pre-planned positioning can bring the ISO down two stops - maybe from ISO6400 to ISO1600, for example when shooting football in poor lighting conditions at night.

Swapping my 85F/1.8 for my 70-200F/2.8 and wiggling myself a bit closer, has saved my butt at indoor swimming meets, often.

Do you print yourself or do you use a lab? Maybe I could use an online service, but sending large files seems to be a hassle also.

Both. I have a one of the older model Canon Printers and a couple of other HP’s. Printing at home is a nice convenience. Using a good quality Pro Lab will show significant differences – it depends upon your end requirements – one is not better than then other. I pump out my own 5x7 for my scrap book – but for $ the file goes to the pro lab . . . it depends on your own needs.

Unfortunately the 70-200 IS would be a bit more than I can afford along with the 17-55.

I understand that. See the last point.

My main concern was with the 50D

I have not used the 50D or the 7D.

I suggest you are diligent n scrutinizing the sources of any “review” and the credential of any users who either make compliant or extol the virtues of either camera.

This purchase may well be my last major camera purchase, so I want to be happy with what I get.

Yes, but I think it is a mistake to limit your “kit” to one purchase. A Camera kit is a living thing. I in no way subscribe to the notion of “upgrading” for the sake of technology that is silly IMO – but having bought many camera kits over the years I have learnt it is much better to identify what is required and buy that particular tool. Buying a “stop gap” I have found leads to frustration from: Time wasting; Money wasting and consistently looking at images which could be better if the correct tool was used in the first place.

WW

[megrag]

High School Gymnasia are notorious for poor light. It is likely you will find F/2.8 will be too slow or just at the limit at ISO3200 to give you enough shutter speed to pull clean shots consistently – so I suggest you not be thinking that either zoom will be the “ant’s pants” in all situations for low light sport.

I figured that F/2.8 would probably be pushing it in some of the gyms and at the night football games. That is why I have been looking at some of the primes. The focal length was going to be my next question. A couple that caught my interest are the Canon EF 100mm f/2.0 USM Lens and the Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM that you mentioned. With the 1.6 crop factor the 100mm would be a 160mm. How would that work in a small H.S gymnasium and at the football fields? Would the extra reach be worth the loss of the 1/3 stop?

High School Football fields (here) are worse than Gyms in so far as the lighting is “in pockets” – near the goal line can be +4EV to the sideline at the centre of the field . . . again F/2.8 will be at the limit.

I'm sure I would have some leeway at the football fields to get out of the stands and closer to the action. Interesting that there is that much variation in the lighting.

Re Drag Racing – that is a sport where Panning IS can be useful.

A co-worker has a car that he races some and mentioned the possibility of selling some photos at the races. At times there have been people that are set up at the drag strip, and seems to have done quite a bit of business there. Just something I have been pondering.

In both situations (BBall and Football) the ability to roam is exceptionally valuable – do not underestimate how important it is and how much it can affect your ability to get clean images.

If you have licence to move, a Fast Prime can become you very best friend – especially if you are looking for shots for one particular team – because you can hang around nearer their scoring or action zone - for the whole game – moving with the team.

If I were selecting lenses solely for BBall, and with a notion for a budget - I would choose from the EF35F/2; EF50F1.4; EF 85F/1.8. (The EF50F1.8MkII is a good lens too). I would likely get all three FL’s . . . but the choice could be narrowed down to two or one by knowing what access and movement ability you will have.

I usually do roam anyway as I like to move around and get different vantage points. I usually try find the limits of how close I can get and not cause problems.

On the other hand - it is totally silly to think of buying a couple of Short Primes, if you will be relegated to the Grandstand at the side of the Gym, 60ft from the action – because in that scenario you will need the 70 to 200, but you might need to pump to ISO6400 to get any acceptable Tv.

SO – when considering your cameras - I would be looking at ISO capacity and the quality at the top end of the ISO.

From what I have seen the 7D does a little better at the higher ISO range than the 50D.

[QUOTE]

BTW frame rate is not important to me at all: 3 to 5 FPS is fine for the sports you mentioned – it is good discipline - in both sports the understanding of the sport is important – I think the last thing you want is 10 frames in the buffer waiting . . . and you miss the clincher.

I would challenge you to shoot 1 frame only at first - it will sharpen your: framing skill; shot anticipation: and sport’s intuition.

Good suggestion. It was late last night and one of the main things I did not mention is the new autofocus system on the 7D.

[QUOTE][QUOTE]BTW the 85F/1.8 is a very handy lens for field sports when shooting in poor light if you can run the sideline or (especially) if you can be at the scoring end (head on to the players).

The 85F/1.8 gives you 1 1/3 stops more than the F/2.8 zoom . . . and, when shooting head on you can often manage a stop slower Tv, before motion blur detracts from the image – so the 85F/1.8 and using a good pre-planned positioning can bring the ISO down two stops - maybe from ISO6400 to ISO1600, for example when shooting football in poor lighting conditions at night.

Swapping my 85F/1.8 for my 70-200F/2.8 and wiggling myself a bit closer, has saved my butt at indoor swimming meets, often.

Seems that I have come to the conclusion that the Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM and either the 100/F2 or the 85/1.8 might be what I end up with. The 17-55 gives me more leeway on the wide end for more general purpose shooting. Decisions, decisions.
Another complicating factor is that the nearest town is growing but still has a ways to go. It is 100 miles or so to the nearest town of much size,(Nashville, Knoxville.), so the options to shop are very limited for a decent selection of camera equipment.

Both. I have a one of the older model Canon Printers and a couple of other HP’s. Printing at home is a nice convenience. Using a good quality Pro Lab will show significant differences – it depends upon your end requirements – one is not better than then other. I pump out my own 5x7 for my scrap book – but for $ the file goes to the pro lab . . . it depends on your own needs.

I will most likely end up waiting(till the next rebate) to get a printer. Will give me time to practice with the camera.



I understand that. See the last point.





I have not used the 50D or the 7D.

I suggest you are diligent n scrutinizing the sources of any “review” and the credential of any users who either make compliant or extol the virtues of either camera.

Yes, but I think it is a mistake to limit your “kit” to one purchase. A Camera kit is a living thing. I in no way subscribe to the notion of “upgrading” for the sake of technology that is silly IMO – but having bought many camera kits over the years I have learnt it is much better to identify what is required and buy that particular tool. Buying a “stop gap” I have found leads to frustration from: Time wasting; Money wasting and consistently looking at images which could be better if the correct tool was used in the first place.

I am not one to jump at an upgrade just to try and keep up. That( and $$$) is why I'm still using my A620. It has enough manual controls to make it an interesting camera to learn with, but also has too many limitations to do what I would really like to do. It has done me well though. I anticipate that the right body would mean that I would be able to concentrate my future resources on lenses, some lighting as the need arises and other useful accessories.

I surely do appreciate all the useful information and suggestions you have offered. Thanks so much for your time. Hopefully, as I learn more about how the forum works I can get you opinion on some of my work. Thanks again friend.
Greg

[KentDub]

Hi Greg,

Thought I'd put in a few more words

I figured that F/2.8 would probably be pushing it in some of the gyms and at the night football games. That is why I have been looking at some of the primes. The focal length was going to be my next question. A couple that caught my interest are the Canon EF 100mm f/2.0 USM Lens and the Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM that you mentioned. With the 1.6 crop factor the 100mm would be a 160mm. How would that work in a small H.S gymnasium and at the football fields? Would the extra reach be worth the loss of the 1/3 stop?

Longer reach is well worth the 1/3 stop - especially with a 1.6x multiplier on it.

As far as lenses - I would highly recommend that you get one zoom to start with, and go at least a couple weeks using that. You will quickly find by looking at the EXIF in bridge what focal length extremes you constantly use (For me - I always need more reach). This will help you make a better decision on what lens to purchase next. (i.e. don't buy a wide angle lens if you always shoot fully zoomed in on your telephoto!)

From what I have seen the 7D does a little better at the higher ISO range than the 50D.

The 7D is in a higher class than the 50D. Canon has its models seperated by the number of digits, then the lower the digit - or more simply, the lower the number the higher class the camera is. If you are the kind of person who buys something and uses it until it dies, then I would recommend the 7D. Personally I like to buy things new (newest if I can), and run them into the ground before making a new purchase. The 7D will sport the latest and greatest in Canon's technology - do you need it? Probebly not - but you may grow into it ("It's not more than you need, it's more than you're used to"). As an artist, nothing annoys me more than being limited by my tools - while I do my best to improvise, it's usually a disappointment.

From what I have seen the 7D does a little better at the higher ISO range than the 50D.

It does, along with a lot of other things it will do subtley better. See above.

BTW frame rate is not important to me at all: 3 to 5 FPS is fine for the sports you mentioned – it is good discipline - in both sports the understanding of the sport is important – I think the last thing you want is 10 frames in the buffer waiting . . . and you miss the clincher.

I would challenge you to shoot 1 frame only at first - it will sharpen your: framing skill; shot anticipation: and sport’s intuition.

Although I completely agree with this statement in principal - you'll want a higher frame rate. It's not necessarily that you want to capture 7 shots per second - it's the lag between the shots. Let's say you wanted to capture 3 shot burst - on a 3fps camera they would be taken at 1/3rd second intervals. On a 7fps camera, the three shots would be spaced by 1/7th of a second. Thats all three shots in less time that 1.5 shots from the 3fps camera. The 3-shot burst then, will improve your chances of getting the perfect shot (i.e. when the dude is at the peak of his jump) assuming your timing is either dead on, or very close (practice makes perfect).

I will most likely end up waiting(till the next rebate) to get a printer. Will give me time to practice with the camera.

While I completely respect that - I thought I'd mention this (I really love my canon printer). It is the first printer I have ever owned that upon looking at the prints, all I see is a photo - not a printed picture. To me, that's worth everything. I havn't had the luxury of having my pictures professionally printed, but with the Canon's 16-bit full AdobeRGB printing, I wouldn't imagine that the lab could do a night and day difference. So - when you do come around to getting a printer, I still recommend the Canon Pro9000 MkII.


I've injected a lot of my own opinions - so feel free to take it with a grain of salt. Hope it helps

[William W]

Although I completely agree with this statement in principal - you'll want a higher frame rate. It's not necessarily that you want to capture 7 shots per second - it's the lag between the shots. Let's say you wanted to capture 3 shot burst - on a 3fps camera they would be taken at 1/3rd second intervals. On a 7fps camera, the three shots would be spaced by 1/7th of a second. Thats all three shots in less time that 1.5 shots from the 3fps camera. The 3-shot burst then, will improve your chances of getting the perfect shot (i.e. when the dude is at the peak of his jump) assuming your timing is either dead on, or very close (practice makes perfect).

Expanding:

I was precise with the comments I made in this point. "3 to 5 FPS is fine for the sports you mention"

There were many elements to my comment - I would like to expand on the logic of them:

Firstly there is the maths as KentDub pointed out: and on the issue of the maths, (I am not familiar with the 50D or the 7D – but I hands on familiar with: 400D 20D 30D 40D 5D and some older 1 series) . . .

We are talking about night-time Football and BBall inside School Sports with an F/2.8 zoom or possibly an F/1.8 or F/2 prime.

Now at ISO1600 to ISO3200 we might guess typical Tv = 1/320 to 1/500 will be the range we will have.

Obviously if we can pull faster Tv, balancing the trade off with noise we will – but for the Gyms I have worked and the School Footy Fields with F/2.8 that’s about the Tv we can expect – so just for the sake of this commentary – let’s accept that as “about” where we will be.

Now, taking the 40D for example – it maxes FPS at 6.5 but drops when the Tv is around 1/500s to around 5fps, but on the other hand the design of the 30D allows (its maximum) about 5FPS even at 1/200s.

This is a trend, I have noticed – as the Continuous Shoot MAX. FPS value increases the rate of falloff from the maximum is more severe at (what I would term) “the low range Tv for sporting applications”.

FWIW: The 40D’s max fps actually starts to drop at around Tv = 1/1000s and really only gives is maximum rate at Tv = 1/4000s, anyway.

The 1 series are better in both these respects.

So by extrapolation, (though not having used a 50D or a 7D), their quoted Continuous Drive Rates being above 5FPS, would not be influencing me much at all, especially for night-time or indoor work.

***

On the second point of my meaning:

A lot depends upon how one learnt.

There is no disputing the maths – it is nicer to have seven shots from which to choose than three (provided the Tv is short enough for the camera to fire off seven per second as mentioned above).

I was careful to mention that is my personal feeling it was mentioned “by the way”.

I was not suggesting, that, for example single shot shooting for Football and Basketball is better, superior or more elitist than firing off seven frames - but, there are these two elements:

On what I prioritize:

> If, for example I had a choice of a camera with ISO range to 6400 with little noise and single shoot only vs. a camera with ISO1600 being quite noisy but had 5FPS – I would take the former rather than the latter for indoors or night-time sports coverage.

Similarly, I rate AF accuracy etc, higher than frame rate, for sport.

On learning the skill:

> Even if a student had a 1 series rated at 10fps, I would initially teach them to shoot single shot – to get the rhythm the sense of the sport the feel for the shutter to make the camera an extension of the hand such than the brain does not have to think but the index finger reacts instinctively.

***

I trust my expansion makes more sense of my former, somewhat limited paragraph of why 3 to 5 frames per second is "fine for the sports you mentioned" - and why I don't necessarily swing high on the manufacturer's quoted maximum FPS numbers and why I don't necessarilly make those numbers (if over 5FPS) the priority criterion for my buying decision.

***

BTW camera format makes a difference too, big mirrors are: big flappers; more mass and greater inertia to initaially overcome, for example.

WW

[KentDub]

I wasn't attacking you William No need to call me "KentBub"

Surprizing that none of us have even bothered to lookup the framerates of the mentioned cameras (lol). I thought though that the 7D has a faster FPS, as well as better ISO support. Wouldn't that make it (given the cameras in question) the best of both worlds?

[William W]

I wasn't attacking you William No need to call me "KentDub"

Hi, Glad you are there - - - I didn't think you were attcking me at all.

I was explaining my thinking that's all. I used your quote as a spring board to expand.

I referred to you as "KentDub" becasue that's the name on the forum and under your quote - just like you referred to me as William ???

How would you like me to address you?

OHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH OK typo . . . . . I see now . . . . .

I will fix sorry . . . . I hope you are still there if so I wait your respnse to ensure all isd OK no offense was meant

WW

[KentDub]

Nono, I knew it was a typo. Just creating some drama for entertainment

[William W]

I thought though that the 7D has a faster FPS, as well as better ISO support. Wouldn't that make it (given the cameras in question) the best of both worlds?

I haven't looked at the 7D closely - basically because I don't want another camera (I just want more lenses).

But yes: if the 7D has: better High-end ISO; better or equal AF; and a faster burst rate - then I would be heading that direction rather than the 50D.

Also, whilst we are gesticulating about Footy and BBall specifically, being realistic, megrad is buying this camera for LOTS of uses and the 7D (on paper) seems to give lots of "stuff" with which to play, and that’s what most of this is all about – having fun and forgetting about all the “junk” the office . . the surgery . . . the building site . . . or whatever.

WW

[William W]

Nono, I knew it was a typo. Just creating some drama for entertainment

I am from Australia . . . so when we say "You Bastard" it means "OK friend - you got me fair and square"

YOU BASTARD!

WW

[megrag]

I haven't looked at the 7D closely - basically because I don't want another camera (I just want more lenses).

But yes: if the 7D has: better High-end ISO; better or equal AF; and a faster burst rate - then I would be heading that direction rather than the 50D.

Also, whilst we are gesticulating about Footy and BBall specifically, being realistic, megrad is buying this camera for LOTS of uses and the 7D (on paper) seems to give lots of "stuff" with which to play, and that’s what most of this is all about – having fun and forgetting about all the “junk” the office . . the surgery . . . the building site . . . or whatever.

WW

Hello William,
As for the specs on the 7D. Quickly, it is 18mp, dual Digic IV processsors . 8fps up to 126 JPEGS and 15 raw, ISO 6400 seems very usable with some PP. and 12, 800is available, but not recommended except for emergencies. The auto-focus is down from the 1 series, with 19 auto-focus, all expandable, if I'm not mistaken. It also controls up to 5 remote flashes. Really I think it is more closely related to the 1 series than to the 50D. Viewfinder has 100%frame coverage with 1x magnification .Seems pretty impressive, but it is new and still has a few bugs Canon is working out.
Thanks again for the helpful info. Do you have a page somewhere? or galleries here? I have a Pbase account :www.pbase.com/megrag if you would like to check it out. Feel free to be critical, but kind.
Greg

[William W]

Hello William, As for the specs on the 7D. . . Do you have a page somewhere? or galleries here? I have a Pbase account :www.pbase.com/megrag if you would like to check it out.
Greg

The ISO extended is likely ISO12800, and it might be a "real" digital ISO of it might just be ISO 6400 with a tweak in the camera (like the 20D has "H" which is not really ISO3200, but ISO1600with some extra fiddle factor).

I won't link to the W&P studio I contract to but, if I am allowed by CiC rules - I hang out at another Forum and there's a bit of my work there: photo.net/photodb/user?user_id=2223148

My images there are "just for me" - very little of my W&P work is posted on line - contractually it is limited.

WW

[William W]

ISO 6400 seems very usable with some PP.
Greg

Hint:

Nail the exposure - do NOT rely on post production or De Noise add-ons to save underexposure

WW

[KentDub]

Hi Greg,

Seems pretty impressive, but it is new and still has a few bugs Canon is working out.

I wouldn't worry about that too much. Canon is pretty darn good at finding and fixing issues and releasing firmware updates. The 5dmkII when new used to have an issue when you had a very bright object next to a very dark object; a simple firmware update fixed it.

[William W]

I have a Pbase account if you would like to check it out. Feel free to be critical, but kind.
Greg

I had a look. Thanks

I can see you are enthusiastic but technically limited sometimes - but the green bug is great! with a 620 - I liked that - I think you've got a bit of a twist to the way you see thing and that's nice.

I'd think about composition a bit more - especially for people (portraiture) even candids- Compositionally “centre thinking” all the time becomes boring.

Also some of your night shots you are pulling at 1/20s - wait till you get ISO1600 and ISO3200 - you will be hand holding and shooting at >1/100s - Crikey there will be no stopping you!

All the best

WW

Just on the Bugs and Flowers - the EF100F/2.8Macro is very nice (easy to spend you money) - and it is an OK sports lens too – in good light - I am just throwing that in to the mix because you were to and fro about the 85 or the 100 prime . . . the 100F/2.8Macro is not as fast focussing as then 100F/2. and it is a stop slower

Also yes, agreed, Canon fix stuff with firmware upgrade number one and the stuff to fix is usually minor, anyway.

[megrag]

Hi Greg,

I wouldn't worry about that too much. Canon is pretty darn good at finding and fixing issues and releasing firmware updates. The 5dmkII when new used to have an issue when you had a very bright object next to a very dark object; a simple firmware update fixed it.

Yes , I know, but thought I might wait for a little while(Later serial #) and let Canon fix the problem before shipment, maybe.
And thanks for the insight and info. Appreciated.
Greg