Seeing through car window!

[Colin Southern]

I have seen pictures of him with like 15 flashes attached to his dress.

Joe wears dresses? Now that's a shot I'd like to see!

[Colin Southern]

Interesting! I have only one of those flashes.

Probably at some stage in the future you'll want to grab another and then a Pocket Wizard Mini TT1 and a couple of Flex TT5's (each with diffusers). Then you can get more into shoot-through umbrellas - backdrops - and more "studio like" shots

[Amberglass]

Joe wears dresses? Now that's a shot I'd like to see!

I think this is the photo mentioned about Joe.

http://www.joemcnally.com/blog/2008/...-shoe-diaries/

[Amberglass]

Probably at some stage in the future you'll want to grab another and then a Pocket Wizard Mini TT1 and a couple of Flex TT5's (each with diffusers). Then you can get more into shoot-through umbrellas - backdrops - and more "studio like" shots

Working with portable strobes (speedlites) are becoming more and more popular. But also very expensive too because you will not only need 3-4 strobes; you will also need light stands (minimum 7-8 feet), diffusers (either umbrellas (cheapest) or soft boxes), umbrella tilt heads for stands, and a way to trigger the strobes.

Start with learning how to use a single off camera flash (known as a key light for primary light source) by sync cable (cheapest way out because radio triggers are not cheap), and a reflector for fill. There are a lot of generic radio triggers made in China that you can get, but they're not very reliable.

But let me recommend something even more basic and what you already own. The biggest magic is understanding slow sync speeds and key shifting (you control how much of the available ambient effects your image). You have to thoroughly understand how aperture (DOF), shutter speed, and ISO reciprocates each other. Recommends Allison Earnest's "Sculpting with Light" if you're interested in portrait work with lights.

Watch this video:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xnn5nzPvoIM

[Colin Southern]

I think this is the photo mentioned about Joe.

http://www.joemcnally.com/blog/2008/...-shoe-diaries/

I had a close look at it - hard to tell, but my guess is that he's actually wearing some baggy shorts.

[Colin Southern]

Working with portable strobes (speedlites) are becoming more and more popular. But also very expensive too because you will not only need 3-4 strobes; you will also need light stands (minimum 7-8 feet), diffusers (either umbrellas (cheapest) or soft boxes), umbrella tilt heads for stands, and a way to trigger the strobes.

In my opinion, "yes" and "no" - at a professional level one can certainly put 4 (or more) to good use - but - for individual subjects and small groups you can do an aweful lot with just two (and perhaps also a reflector or two thrown in for good measure). The likes of light stands and shoot-through umbrellas are dirt cheap.

Triggering is one area that isn't so cheap if you do it properly, but I think it's false economy to spend money on the cheaper solutions because they won't give you ETTL and they won't give you high-speed-sync; not important if you're shooting in the studio, but far more important if you're shooting outside and want/need a mix of flash/ambient (keeping in mind that one of the key advantages of speedlights is portability - not too many power sources for studio heads on beaches etc) On the plus side though, once you have the likes of Pocket Wizards then you have them for life if you look after them.

[Alis]

I think this is the photo mentioned about Joe.

http://www.joemcnally.com/blog/2008/...-shoe-diaries/

Yes, that is the one. That is his profile picture on his FB page.

[Alis]

Shame, I thought we were trying to improve/salvage something that was unrepeatable, therefore, while it can't aspire to our normal technical standards, the content was worth the effort.

As an exercise in making it look like a polariser had been used, under less than ideal circumstances (the trees and building), I was reasonably pleased with it.

You did a great job on an ulmost unrescueable picture, but what I was looking for was a more natural looking picture. Of course I can not shoot the picture again but I do not have to ues it either. I was trying to see if anyone has any magic method to reveal more from the inside of the car. And I was thinking may be a sharpening method can do the trick.

[Alis]

I agree with Amber that these equipments are expensive. On the other hand, I do not have to buy them right away, so I guess I am going to practice with what I have some more, but my next purchases will be the PWs and also a 85mm f/1.2 Canon lens

[Dave Humphries]

~ And I was thinking may be a sharpening method can do the trick.

Well. I did use USM 3 or even 4 times with different settings, does that count?

but if you/anyone knows of another method (for solving this problem I mean), do share

Not sure what you mean by 'more natural looking', but if it's likely to not be used anyway, there's no point tidying up further.

[Amberglass]

I agree with Amber that these equipments are expensive. On the other hand, I do not have to buy them right away, so I guess I am going to practice with what I have some more, but my next purchases will be the PWs and also a 85mm f/1.2 Canon lens

You know the 85 1.8 is much faster at focusing and costs much less than the 1.2. The 85 1.2L is an amazing piece of glass but slow to focus; you need to take your time with this prime with it's extremely narrow DOF. Just like the 50 1.2L, it's considered a specialty lens. Granted the L's are amazing lenses, but you really have to decide if you really need it. I've known people over the years who purchased the 16-35 2.8 and 85 1.2, only to later sell them for the 17-40 f and 85 1.8 instead.

Everyone's shooting needs are different. When looking into very expensive lenses (doesn't matter if you can afford them or not), consider renting them first for awhile. If you find yourself renting the same glass more than 5 times a year (or it's gets closer to almost half the cost of the lens); then you should "consider" buying it.

It's like how so many people buy fitness equipment, the intensions are good initially and honest enough. But it's such a waste to have it laying around collecting dust when the novelty wears off.

You can use your 580EX IIs as a master commander and a second as a slave for awhile before investing in PWs. Again, master the basics first before jumping into more gear. Fortunately for me I use Nikons (but also long time Canon user) and am currently very happy with the CSL it offers.

[Colin Southern]

You know the 85 1.8 is much faster at focusing and costs much less than the 1.2. The 85 1.2L is an amazing piece of glass but slow to focus; you need to take your time with this prime with it's extremely narrow DOF.

I have a theory that the mechanics of the 85/1.2L are probably geared down for the extra precision reguired for focusing at F1.2 (and the electronic manual focus for the same reason; ie no way to mechanically focus the lens wide open - nobody would ever be able to position it accurately enough). I know that a lot of people say it's "slow to focus", but in context, I haven't found that to be the case at all. Sure, it might take close to a second to hunt through the entire focus range, but in the context of portrait photography (which is it's forte) there isn't a lot of repositioning required from one shot to the next and in that respect the focus speed is more than adequate (on my camera anyway) (1Ds3 - which has a dedicated processors for lens drive and focus calculations).

It's like how so many people buy fitness equipment, the intensions are good initially and honest enough. But it's such a waste to have it laying around collecting dust when the novelty wears off.

One of my standing jokes around my place is "home gym for sale - 10 years old - as new condition"

You can use your 580EX IIs as a master commander and a second as a slave for awhile before investing in PWs. Again, master the basics first before jumping into more gear.

However, if one invests in a Pocketwizard TT1 and a couiple of TT5's then the TT1 is capable of "forced master mode" (in fact it's the default in the latest revision of Control TL software) which means that you can have BOTH flashes off camera, and still have full ETTL control. (or just operate with one flash, off camera, or have one off camera and one on camera -- it's all pretty versatile).

PS: The pocketwizard folks are also about to release the ZoneCommander for allowing full zone & ratio control with out a 550/580/ST-E2 on camera.

[Alis]

Thanks, Colin and Amber for the information. I agree completely. Those will be my next purchases but I have a long way to get there.

By the way, I forgot to mention the need for a much more important too, that I will ask you guys in a new thread right now

[KentDub]

Here's my attempt on it... No idea what to do with the right side of the window. I fixed the black level - the red reflection is exteme, so I desaturated the reds... Anyways - how's this?

29-second makeover

[Ashwin]

I have an exercise for you guys: does anyone know how I can make the people inside the car more visible in this picture. I need a printable version.

This is what I could do for you

[willgoss]

OK....I also tried.....here it is....had an inspiration to ues an IR script to the work I did yesterday....you can get a little more from this.....

[Alis]

Not sure what you mean by 'more natural looking', but if it's likely to not be used anyway, there's no point tidying up further.

Thanks, Dave. I meant it looks kinda plastic. I was looking for a way to make it look more clear through the window without looking like painting or having that plastic texture to it. I have more shots from that day and I like a couple of them but they are all done the same way with the window up.

[Alis]

OK....I also tried.....here it is....had an inspiration to ues an IR script to the work I did yesterday....you can get a little more from this.....

Thanks, Will. Looks interesting. What do you mean by IR, could you explain more, for similar situations. Is it a technique that simiulate the infrared?

[Alis]

This is what I could do for you

Thanks, Ashwin. I think this looks very good actually. What did you do?

[Alis]

Here's my attempt on it... No idea what to do with the right side of the window. I fixed the black level - the red reflection is exteme, so I desaturated the reds... Anyways - how's this?

29-second makeover

Thanks, Kent! For 29 second, it is actually very good .

But seriously, it is very close to what Ashwin came up with but his is a bit brighter which can be achieved with yours too I guess.