New series! Dramatic Fossils (focus-stacked B&W)

[FlyingSquirrel]

After having done a few installments of dramatic b&w focus-stacked seashell images, it occurred to me how awesome it would be to do the same treatment to some fossils. I've always loved fossils, so this was a great way to take it to another level. I dug out my collection, proceeded with the laborious process, and I have to say, they came out exactly as I'd envisioned. I'm thoroughly thrilled with these images.

To recap, the point of these type of shots is to get razor sharp images with unlimited depth of field (with focus-stacking technique), and then to dramatize the heck out of them with judiciously applied contrast adjustments.

(By the way, there ARE more seashell images coming!)

MUST view full size by clicking then press "F" for each photo... C&C appreciated

1 - Fern (8 images)



2 - Crocodile Scale (10 images)



3 - Trilobite (8 images)



4 - Crinoid Stem (23 images!)

[Shadowman]

Very nice images. How large are these pieces? Was it a lighting issue that steered you towards focus-stacking?

[FlyingSquirrel]

Very nice images. How large are these pieces? Was it a lighting issue that steered you towards focus-stacking?

Thanks John. The fern is about 3" across, scale is about 1.5", trilobite about 1", and crinoid stem is about 0.75" long.

The reason I use focus stacking on macro shots is because I like the sharpness it produces. When you start stopping down the aperture for greater depth of field, you get diffraction which destroys the sharpness. Not only that, but with stopping down, you never really get "sharpness" throughout, because the depth of field is really just an illusion of sharpness before and after the actual focal plane.

Thanks for viewing and commenting

[Shadowman]

Thanks John. The fern is about 3" across, scale is about 1.5", trilobite about 1", and crinoid stem is about 0.75" long.

The reason I use focus stacking on macro shots is because I like the sharpness it produces. When you start stopping down the aperture for greater depth of field, you get diffraction which destroys the sharpness. Not only that, but with stopping down, you never really get "sharpness" throughout, because the depth of field is really just an illusion of sharpness before and after the actual focal plane.

Thanks for viewing and commenting

Thanks for the response Matt, are you using macro lens, closeup filter, reversed lens,...? How about lighting, positioning of strobe or flash?

Thanks

[FlyingSquirrel]

Thanks for the response Matt, are you using macro lens, closeup filter, reversed lens,...?

No problem, thank you for viewing and commenting. On some shots I use a 50mm macro, other shots I use a 150mm macro. Depends on the size of the subject and the angle and magnification I need.

How about lighting, positioning of strobe or flash?

Thanks

I used a poor man's studio: Cardboard box with top and one side removed, inside lined with tin foil. Lighting from one side with a light therapy lamp! LOL. I adjust the angle and distance of the light depending on the subject texture and how I want the contrast and shadows to fall.

Hope this helps.

[Shadowman]

No problem, thank you for viewing and commenting. On some shots I use a 50mm macro, other shots I use a 150mm macro. Depends on the size of the subject and the angle and magnification I need.

It does, thanks for the information.

I used a poor man's studio: Cardboard box with top and one side removed, inside lined with tin foil. Lighting from one side with a light therapy lamp! LOL. I adjust the angle and distance of the light depending on the subject texture and how I want the contrast and shadows to fall.

Hope this helps.