studying how to do headshots/portraits 2013

[Manfred M]

I use diffusers on my flash that is mounted on the camera. I have a Gary Fong (looks like Tupperware) that I have used when photographing people with good results.
With this system you are basically bouncing the light from the flash; however you do not have to depend on the ceiling or wall in some cases. Is anybody familiar with the Gary Fong system?
I agree that the best light to use is a off camera lighting setup. As previously mentioned, 45 degrees in front of your subject, 45 degrees looking down on the subject.

The problem with the Gary Fong gear is that unless you bounce part of the light off a ceiling, you are still working with a small (point) light source, with all the inherent issues. There are fans out there and others who are ambivelent to the gear. I would not use is as my preferred light source for portraiture; there are much better solutions out there.

[Digital]

The problem with the Gary Fong gear is that unless you bounce part of the light off a ceiling, you are still working with a small (point) light source, with all the inherent issues. There are fans out there and others who are ambivelent to the gear. I would not use is as my preferred light source for portraiture; there are much better solutions out there.

I miss my Elinchromes.

Bruce

[shreds]

I miss my Elinchromes.

Bruce

Its not until you get used to some kit like this, that you realise what a compromise an on camera flash gun is. OK essential in many situations, but if you are serious about portraiture then getting them off onto stands with brolleys/softboxes or better still dispensing with them as main lights and using mains powered/large portable battery powered Bowens/Elinchromes or similar.

But only worth the expense if utilising them on a regular basis as they are not cheap for occasional use.

[Digital]

Its not until you get used to some kit like this, that you realise what a compromise an on camera flash gun is. OK essential in many situations, but if you are serious about portraiture then getting them off onto stands with brolleys/softboxes or better still dispensing with them as main lights and using mains powered/large portable battery powered Bowens/Elinchromes or similar.

But only worth the expense if utilising them on a regular basis as they are not cheap for occasional use.

Ian, how true is your statements.

Bruce

[Loose Canon]

This shot was taken with a flash on a camera bracket while wearing a Fongsphere. I believe Bruce mentioned this device and wondered if anyone used one. If you think a bracket is “off-camera” then it was shot with off-camera lighting. I tend to think of it as on-camera (the bracket being attached to the camera), but off-axis lighting. It was shot with the top on the Fongsphere, the flash aimed directly at the subject, and on ETTL. I don’t remember if any FEC was used but it is always an option.

Sure, we’d all love to use nothing but off-camera lighting and that seems to always be the first thing suggested. But the reality is that you can’t always. And you don’t necessarily have to be afraid to use a flash on-camera. Bill has a spiffy reflecting catcher's mitt he uses. He probably made that for a couple of bucks. Richard uses Joe Demb. I have two or three different on-flash modifiers including reflectors and have used them all. And like them all. All of these will work and differ slightly so you can choose what you like best.

This shot was taken about a half mile down a trail from the vehicle. I didn’t have a mule handy to help me lug lights, modifiers, stands, etc. and I dang sure wasn’t going to do it myself! But I can easily lug a fold up 5in1 reflector and bounce it if I want. Or use it for any of the other 5in1 uses!

The camera may not lie, but lighting certainly can! If your subject complains about them looking “fat” try different lighting. Short-side lighting is better for this purpose than flat or broad-side lighting as one example.

Also a couple of things I try to watch for? Mottled lighting in the shade (not a huge fan of this kind of light hitting my subject and making them appear “spotty”). Ultra bright backgrounds that will distract. And if I am shooting portraits, I will always have at least a Speedlite or a reflector, or both available for fill. This will help alleviate dark muddied high contrast tones and help lift the shadow areas, less corrections in post.

[shreds]

Can't fault it, Terry. Good shot, well lit, and suitably indistinct background. All focuses attention on the skin tones. Good natural posing too.

[Manfred M]

Nice shot Terry - well lit, planned and composed. I agree with you regarding shooting with a flash bracket being form of "on camera"; I shoot with a Stroboframe at times and that is exactly the way I look at it and often use a diffuser on the Speedlight when I do. Choice of diffuser is really personal taste (and even whether you use one or not).

You've added just enough light to supplement the ambient light (which looks nice and diffuse to begin with) to give the shot a bit of an edge.

I also agree that a folding reflector is a great tool. It folds up to a reasonably small size, doesn't weigh a lot and as long as you have someone around to hold it, often works a lot better than a flash when shooting outdoors.

[nimitzbenedicto]

HI Terry,

Very beautiful!

May I inquire , the bracket you mention must be similar to the brackets we used on film cameras. But in this instance, you had a hotshoe on it, specific to your flash? Cable connected or wireless.

Perhaps, some exif.

Thanks in advance.

Victor

[Manfred M]

Victor - there are a number of different styles out there and this happens to be what I use;




It does two things for you:

1. It raises your flash well above the optial axis of your camera which means a longer lens does not cast a shadow on your subject; and

2. When shooting in portrait mode; your flash can be set above the camera so that the light does not come from the side, but rather from above the camera. This tends to give me better results.

I do use it with a hot shoe adaptor that connects to the camera's synch port, but could also trigger it as a slave using the camera's built-in flash.

[nimitzbenedicto]

Victor - there are a number of different styles out there and this happens to be what I use;




It does two things for you:

1. It raises your flash well above the optial axis of your camera which means a longer lens does not cast a shadow on your subject; and

2. When shooting in portrait mode; your flash can be set above the camera so that the light does not come from the side, but rather from above the camera. This tends to give me better results.

I do use it with a hot shoe adaptor that connects to the camera's synch port, but could also trigger it as a slave using the camera's built-in flash.

Hey, looks cool. Obviously, quite expensive. "stroboframe"

I'll have to search for something similar to your rig. Keeping in mind your guidelines, it must be high above the cam.

Thanks.

[Manfred M]

Victor - there is a cheap alternative that I've use many times before I got the Stroboframe (which is owned by Tiffen Filters) That is holding the flash in my left hand and the camera in my right hand. Set the speedlight to slave mode and use the built-in flash to fire it or use the synch cable connector (that is not cheap either).

The downside is that my arm gets tired after a while, but positioning is far more flexible than a fixed Stroboframe.

[Loose Canon]

Thank you guys! A special shot for me since it is my Lovely and Charming Blushing Bride!

Victor I guess the bracket is similar. Manfred mentioned his Stroboframe and here is a simple and effective example.

The bracket has a cold shoe on it. The flash communicates with the camera hot shoe via a sync cable. Or in my case Phottix Odin radio triggers.

I would be glad to mention the EXIF-
f/5.6
1/60th of a second shutter
ISO 100
Focal Length- 153mm
Subject Distance- 5.5m
Evaluative Metering
Canon 50D

The rock background was approximately 3-5M behind the subject.

[Loose Canon]

Oops!

Looks like I'm a little late on the Stroboframe!

[nimitzbenedicto]

Victor - there is a cheap alternative that I've use many times before I got the Stroboframe (which is owned by Tiffen Filters) That is holding the flash in my left hand and the camera in my right hand. Set the speedlight to slave mode and use the built-in flash to fire it or use the synch cable connector (that is not cheap either).

The downside is that my arm gets tired after a while, but positioning is far more flexible than a fixed Stroboframe.

Yes. A very practical alternative but still with the basic theme of angling the light in use.

I'll practice with this arm-mode to familiarize my muscles and to observe its effect on subject.

After enough practice/observations, I may get the affordable bracket on Amazon - 8$.

Thanks Manfred.

[nimitzbenedicto]

Thank you guys! A special shot for me since it is my Lovely and Charming Blushing Bride!

Victor I guess the bracket is similar. Manfred mentioned his Stroboframe and here is a simple and effective example.

The bracket has a cold shoe on it. The flash communicates with the camera hot shoe via a sync cable. Or in my case Phottix Odin radio triggers.

I would be glad to mention the EXIF-
f/5.6
1/60th of a second shutter
ISO 100
Focal Length- 153mm
Subject Distance- 5.5m
Evaluative Metering
Canon 50D

The rock background was approximately 3-5M behind the subject.

Hi Terry,

Thanks for the EXIF. Got a lot of ideas.

Seems you have the same set-up using Stroboframe with Manfred.

I found an Adorama bracket on Amazon for 8$.

May get it when my arm gets stiff/numb after using Manfred's "manual mode"
( jz kiddin......hehehe.... )

Thanks

[Digital]

Manfred, I stopped using my Stroboframe when I purchased Gary's Fong's Lightsphere. Seeing your photo on this thread made me realize that I can benefit from both worlds: handle mount flash, and Lightsphere. Due to my lack of organization skills I found that my equipment was logically placed where it was supposed to be. As a result I could not find it at first. I realize that does not make much sense.
I am now going to use both systems when the situation calls for flash.

Terry, nice portrait of the lady - beautiful work.
I consider any flash mounted off the camera's hot shoe as off camera. As a result using a Stroboframe is to me an off camera flash.
Also, with a simple use of an Allen wrench I can adjust the height of the flash on the Stroboframe.
Thanks guys, you made my day.

Bruce

[nimitzbenedicto]

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NikonD300. 55-200mm@65mm. Aperture priority: f/5, 1/100, ISO400. autoWB. Spot metering.
Focus Mode:AF-C. AF-Area Mode:Single. pp/viewNX2, gimp, Helicon Filter 5

L. A. Convention Center. 6Jul2013

[nimitzbenedicto]

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Nikon D300. 55-200mm@55mm. Manual mode: f/5. 1/250, ISO400. spot metering. autoWB
Focus Mode:AF-C. AF-Area Mode:Single. pp/viewNX2, gimp, Helicon Filter 5


6Jul2013

[nimitzbenedicto]

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Nikon D300. 55-200mm @105mm. Manual mode:f/5.6, 1250, ISO200
Focus Mode:AF-C. AF-Area Mode:Single. pp/viewNX2, gimp, Helicon Filter 5

[HenkB]

Victor,

There's palpable improvement over the course of this thread. I may have missed it but I'm surprised no one has included a link to Neil van Niekerk's website. He is a dedicated wedding photographer and generally works with as few flashes and as simply as he can get away with - generally what you are trying to do. His approach is practical to the nth, he addresses both TTL flash and manual flash - whatever works. It's worth a look, I would think.