Is my 550EX on its last legs?

[rpcrowe]

My old 550EX has served me well over many-many years. I have gotten my money's worth from this unit but, I think it may be dying.

Even though I had the unit on HSS during a shoot today. The flash would intermittently leave the bottom portion of the frame black, just as if I did not have the unit in HSS. Sometimes it would expose the entire frame while at other times it would leave a portion of the frame dark.

Lucky, I was in a situation in which I could easily shoot at 1/250 second and not use HSS.

Is the intermittent HSS an indicator that the flash has reached the end of its usefulness. I could use it at 1/250 second or slower but, if one thing on the flash begins to go, I wonder what will be next...

O.K., maybe I should have replaced this old trooper a while ago but, prior to today it has always worked well. I am going to try it on my other 7D to ensure that it is the flash, not the camera causing the problem...

[Colin Southern]

Hi Richard,

Best guess would be a connection issue between the flash and the hot shoe.

Can you do some back to back tests with the flash between your two cameras to see if it's the flash or the camera?

[rpcrowe]

To throw another monkey into the game, I am using a Canon Off-Camera Cord which I will have to eliminate as the culprit by testing. However, since it is one of those annoying intermittent problems, I will need to shoot quite a few test shots. I like the old 550EX and it has served me well. However, it is time to upgrade...

Oh well...

[Hero]

That sounds to me as if the flash, or rather the main capacitor in the flash-unit is on it's last legs. Those will usually start to intermittently leak small amounts of power from the top of their charge. With HSS you will notice it the most because it's a long duration time-critical discharge, but you will probably see very slight inconsistencies in power output when using full power too.

All in all, time to retire the unit and give it its well earned place on the mantelpiece.
(Oh and don't wait too long, when a capacitor completely fails, big chance it wil go out with a bang (literally))

[Colin Southern]

Do yourself a favour Richard - open up your wallet and grab a Canon ST-E3-RT transmitter and a EX600-RT flash and ...

... wonder why you didn't do it 18 months ago when they first came out!

http://neilvn.com/tangents/review-ca...lite-600ex-rt/

[rpcrowe]

I certainly understand where you are coming from, Colin. But, I have decided on a minty used 580EX II to replace my limping 550EX flash...

Actually, I have a friend in a local photo group who never used his flash (because he simply doesn't know how). I am getting his almost new 580EX II at a really great price ($200 U.S. Dollars). Since I always seem to be shooting with a flash that is one or two models old, I snapped up his offer. Two hundred bucks is an offer too good to refuse...

I realize that the 600EX-RT is a more complete unit but, I have a couple of older EX flash units which I can use as slaves to the 580EX II if I absoultely need a multi-flash setup. However, I seldom, if ever, use a multi-flash setup with hotshoe flashes. If I need a multi flash setup for indoor or studio work, I use my studio strobes. When I light with hotshoe flash, it is usually run-and-gun situations; either shooting with flash on camera or bouncing the flash from a Stroboframe Camera Flip bracket modified with a Joe Demb Flash Diffuser Pro...

[Colin Southern]

I certainly understand where you are coming from, Colin. But, I have decided on a minty used 580EX II to replace my limping 550EX flash...

Actually, I have a friend in a local photo group who never used his flash (because he simply doesn't know how). I am getting his almost new 580EX II at a really great price ($200 U.S. Dollars). Since I always seem to be shooting with a flash that is one or two models old, I snapped up his offer. Two hundred bucks is an offer too good to refuse...

I realize that the 600EX-RT is a more complete unit but, I have a couple of older EX flash units which I can use as slaves to the 580EX II if I absoultely need a multi-flash setup. However, I seldom, if ever, use a multi-flash setup with hotshoe flashes. If I need a multi flash setup for indoor or studio work, I use my studio strobes. When I light with hotshoe flash, it is usually run-and-gun situations; either shooting with flash on camera or bouncing the flash from a Stroboframe Camera Flip bracket modified with a Joe Demb Flash Diffuser Pro...

Ah well - the 580EX II is the next best thing -- it's just that the built-in remote triggering is more "miss" than "hit" outside -- especially when umbrellas are involved.

A 600EX-RT will still trigger older EX slaves by the way -- but they enter a class of their own when they start talking with radio waves instead of the traditional "smoke signals".

[rpcrowe]

I posted: Actually, I have a friend in a local photo group who never used his flash (because he simply doesn't know how)."

I found out one of the easons that he never got decent exposures with his flash. The darn thing has never worked and he didn't know that it was his flash rather than his technique which was at fault. Unfortunately he never sent the unit to Canon while it was under waranty;

I tested the 580EX II against my 430EX using direct flash, with my 7D in manual and the flash in ETTL. I made sure that I cancelled out any special functions on the flash and that I did not have a -EV dialed in.

430EX in ETTL, Canon 7D in Manual 1/60 second @ f/5.6


580EX II in ETTL, Canon 7D in Manual 1/60 second @ f/5.6


The images I shot bouncing the 580EX II are even worse. Naturally, I did not buy the flash. I suggested that he try to see how much Canon would charge to bring his 50EX II up to specifications...

[Colin Southern]

Yuck.

Did it even fire?

Was it showing ETTL mode on the back?

[rpcrowe]

Yes, it fired and it showed ETTL on the rear LCD. In fact, this looks worse than with no flash at all...

[Colin Southern]

That's really quite bizarre. What exposure would you get without any flash at all?

Almost looks like one heck of a colour temp change as well. Would be really interesting to know what the technical issue with it was.

[rpcrowe]

The exposure with no flash was 1/30 second @ f/4 and looked within the ballpark color wise (considering it was a green walled room). It certainly did not look like the ugly green of the flash. BTW: with the camera in Programmed exposure, I got the same underexposure with the 580EX ii and a very decent exposure and color with the 430EX...

[Colin Southern]

It's almost like it's delivering the pre-flash and then failing on the main flash.

Have you tried manual flash output out of curiosity?

[rpcrowe]

I never tried the flash on manual. I have returned it to its owner and told him that he might contact the Canon Service Center in Irvine, CA to diagnose the problem and perhaps repair the unit. Even though the unit is out of warranty, it might just be worth the cost for him to have a working unit with which he can learn to use flash but, I certainly don't want to buy a flash that has problems...

I did not know that the 600ex-RT flash can control my 430ex and other flashes as a master. This makes the choice more appealing. I seldom use multiple hotshoe flash lighting but, it is certainly nice to retain that capability...

I am concerned regarding a statement on Syl Arenas' blog: PIXSYLATED: http://pixsylated.com/blog/canon-600...t-impressions/

"The manual says that on pre-2012 cameras (anything other than 1D X and 5DM3), the system takes a one-stop hit in sync speed and that HSS is not possible."

I have read the manual (pg.25) and I think the manual is talking about the flash in its RT operation not generally about the HSS capability of this flash. HSS is a hard requirement in my flash needs because I use fill flash for a majority of applicable shots. Effective fill flash is more important for me than RT or other master/slave operation. Outdoor flash, either as fill or as main light must be available in HSS because I will often need/want to use a wide aperture and therefore a fast shutter speed. There are also times in which I want to use a high shutter speed to stop action and also want a bit of fill light...

I have researched the Metz Mecablitz 58-AF2 which has all the bells and whistles that I want but, persons ho have purchased that unit blow hot and cold regarding its use and quality. I think that I will cross that one of my list. I have looked at the Metz manual for the 58-AF2 and don't like the way the manual is set up...

It looks like the 600ex-RT might be my only choice.

[Colin Southern]

I did not know that the 600ex-RT flash can control my 430ex and other flashes as a master. This makes the choice more appealing. I seldom use multiple hotshoe flash lighting but, it is certainly nice to retain that capability...

A lot of people think that everything prior to the 600EX-RT communicates via infra-red using the red LEDs in the bottom of the unit, but they're just the AF assist LEDs. The communication is actually done with visible light from the flash head itself ... and the 600EX-RT is as capable of doing that as all the others (there is however a firmware option to stop those "legacy modes" appearing when you cycle through the communication modes).

"The manual says that on pre-2012 cameras (anything other than 1D X and 5DM3), the system takes a one-stop hit in sync speed and that HSS is not possible."

I have read the manual (pg.25) and I think the manual is talking about the flash in its RT operation not generally about the HSS capability of this flash. HSS is a hard requirement in my flash needs because I use fill flash for a majority of applicable shots. Effective fill flash is more important for me than RT or other master/slave operation. Outdoor flash, either as fill or as main light must be available in HSS because I will often need/want to use a wide aperture and therefore a fast shutter speed. There are also times in which I want to use a high shutter speed to stop action and also want a bit of fill light...

That's an interesting one. Yep - the manual says that - it absolutely does. The only problem is that it's wrong wrong wrong. Do some more Googling and you'll find people using your camera who don't have a problem; the only thing I noticed was a "TV" warning on the flash, but it takes the shot just fine anyway.

That manual entry has confused a LOT of people (and quite rightly so).

My personal advice is to stick a ST-E3-RT on the camera then invest in a couple of the 600EX-RT flashes; once you get the hang of them they're just so superior in terms of ease of use that it's just ridiculous. The only thing you won't be able to do without a new camera is use group mode (basically an extension of the old ABC channels that allow any combination of modes).

My suggestion is to just do some more Googling and get a feel for how people are finding them in your situation. Happy to personally test any combinations you'd like assurance on using my 1Ds3 (which should work the same as your two cameras).

[rpcrowe]

I have bitten the bullet and ordered the Canon 600ex-RT from Adorama in New York City (I usually purchase from either Adorama or B&H)...

Even though (for now) I don't need the radio control, we never know if or when that need will arise. What finally convinced me was the $50 U.S. Dollar instant rebate (price markdown) which is good until November 2nd. Sometimes my Scottish heritage comes through in decision making processes. The 600ex-rt ended up at $500 U.S.D. with free shipping and no state sales tax (close to 9% in California) charged.

The other units I considered aside from that used 580EX ii (I will stay away from used flashes and only thought about that one because I know the owner) was the Metz Mecablitz 58AF-2 and the Nissin Di866 Mk. ii. Although both of these units have some few bells and whistles that I like, the reviews ran hot and cold while the Canon 600ex-RT reviews were pretty consistently very good. I have seldom been happy with photo equipment when I have been cheap about the purchase...

I am wondering if Canon will bring out some lower priced "slave" RT units or does the need for the units to communicate with each other eliminate master and slave concept? Does the 600ex-RT transmission allow any other type of receiver to be used in slave capacity on a unit like the 430EX ii?

It is a shame that Sunpak discontinued the 120J instead of keeping the technology updated with ETTL, master/slave capability and high speed sync, and so on. I still have an old 120J and really like its large round reflector and its bare bulb capability. The Thyrister exposure control was pretty accurate and if it had HSS capability, I'd probably still be using it! The battery pack provided pretty darn quick recycling also.

[Colin Southern]

Well done Richard - congrats on the new purchase.

I actually got 5 of mine from Adorama too, after getting so many conflicting stories from NZ suppliers; think they worked out at $880 NZD in the end.

Next step will be the ST-E3-RT (once you get the 600EX-RT just imagine what it would be like with the top 1/2 cut off and that's 95% of what the ST-E3-RT is like. The radio triggering in particular is ROCK solid (can't recall even a single misfire).

Give me a yell if there's anything you need to know about them. And if mine are anything to go by, I think you'll find the exposure almost impossible to trip up.

[rpcrowe]

I do have one question which is not referenced in any of the specs. How high above the top of the camera is the Canon ST-E3-RT Speedlite Transmitter when mounted on the cmera hotshoe. I really like using a Stroboframe camera flip bracket but, the camera does not have room to flip with a high piece of gear on the hotshoe.

I use a Canon Off-Camera sync cord (since the wireless flash control of the 7D is chancy at best outdoors when the flash is on the bracket). I don't like having the flash end of the off-camera cord between the flash and bracket. This places the flash in a vulnerable position - especially when the weight of a modifier like a small beauty dish is attached to the flash. There is a lot of torque between the flash and the Stroboframe when I add the additional off camera cord. Possibly, the metal foot of the 600ex-RT might help but, the mounting of the Off-Camera Sync Cord is plastic.

I know that there are other brackets available but, I really like using the Stroboframe camera flip model.

[Colin Southern]

I do have one question which is not referenced in any of the specs. How high above the top of the camera is the Canon ST-E3-RT Speedlite Transmitter when mounted on the cmera hotshoe. I really like using a Stroboframe camera flip bracket but, the camera does not have room to flip with a high piece of gear on the hotshoe.

I use a Canon Off-Camera sync cord (since the wireless flash control of the 7D is chancy at best outdoors when the flash is on the bracket). I don't like having the flash end of the off-camera cord between the flash and bracket. This places the flash in a vulnerable position - especially when the weight of a modifier like a small beauty dish is attached to the flash. There is a lot of torque between the flash and the Stroboframe when I add the additional off camera cord. Possibly, the metal foot of the 600ex-RT might help but, the mounting of the Off-Camera Sync Cord is plastic.

I know that there are other brackets available but, I really like using the Stroboframe camera flip model.

Hi Richard,

I'll measure it for you shortly (when my eyes start focusing and I get my gear bag out of the car) (just woke up!).

You're probably better off getting an Canon OCSC3 - it has a metal shoe and it weather seals with the 600EX-RT. It handles the torque better than the older versions, but it is still possible to damage them if you're not at least a little bit careful (the mount rips the screws out of the plastic base). They're just fine most of the time, but if the flash is horizontal and gets a big bump then the laws of physics do tend to take over.

[Colin Southern]

Hi Richard,

It's a slightly tricky one because the "top" of the ST-E3-RT sits about 30 degrees to the horizontal when mounted on the hotshoe to allow it to be seen a bit easier. When I measured it it looked to be around 59 to 60mm above the level of the hotshoe.

Just be aware that one of the limitations of the ST-E3-RT is that you can't do 2nd curtain sync through it, if that's important.