Emma C&C Welcome

[Snowy55]

Here is a semi profile portrait of Emma, my stepdaughter. I used a Nikon D5100 with an SB700 flash unit within a Lastolite EzyBox. I did just a little post processing in Nikon Capture NX2 to brighten the image.



Your comments and critiques are welcome. Thanks

[AB26]

Barry, I think if you have your subject a little further away from the background it will work better. Try to avoid any harsh shadows.

The pose, no I do not think it works.

[Manfred M]

A few thoughts for you Barry:

I would suggest that you look at getting your model to stand a couple of m (6 ft) away from the wall to eliminate the heavy duty shadow that you have right behind your subject. More distance would really soften the shadow and make it more or less a non-factor in the image.

Another consideration would be to change her pose a bit and either shoot in pure profile or use a more "classic" pose. The classic "rule" in portraiture is that the subject's nose should not extend beyound the cheek line. That gives you two things; the lines from the cheek are not "broken" and it pulls the back eye out a bit more and provides a better balance (size wise) with the eye that is closer to the camera. Both will generally give you a more pleasing image.

You might also want to try to have the softbox up higher and shooting down a bit more, as that tends to give you a bit more natural looking lighting. Think about how natural light / sunlight hits the subject; unless you are shooting at sunset, the light is not as straight on as you have it.

[rpcrowe]

Placing your subject a bit further away from the wall and having the flash higher will normally help the shadow that is cast behind the subject.

I like using a Stroboframe Camera Flip Flash Bracket because:



1. It places the flash directly above your lens both when you are shooting in the landscape or horizontal position (somewhat unusual for portraits) or in the vertical position which is aptly called "portrait" position. The higher light level gives a more natural look while keeping the flash directly over the lens places the shadow directly behind the subject.

2. However, bouncing your flash with the addition of a diffuser reflector will provide far better light than shooting with direct flash, even when using a fancy attachment. I personally prefer to add the Joe Demb Flash Diffuser Pro to my bounced flash.
www.dembflashproducts.com
The DFD can also be used in areas in which there is no ceiling or other surface off which to bounce the flash. Simply, place the FlipIt portion of the DFD at a 45 degree angle towards the subject. This will direct a major portion of the flash towards the subject but, will soften that directed light...

However, when I am traveling and weight is at a premium, I often do not carry the Stroboframe Bracket. Instead, I bounce my flash mounted on the hotshoe but, have the length of the flash tube facing perpendicular to my camera body rather than parallel with it. I have the DFD mounted to the rear of the length of the flash tube. This will allow easy re-configuring of the flash from the horizontal to vertical camera positions and back. I may have been somewhat confusing in my description of the on-camera flash use but, I think that this illustration might clear it up...

[Snowy55]

Thanks for the constructive comments Andre, Manfred and Richard. I shall remember to move the subject away from the wall if room permits and adjust poses. I used a Custom Brackets S mount, which I should have mentioned Richard. That Stobaframe bracket looks useful.

[jcuknz]

I suggest it would work if tighter framed for a head and shoulders shot and while it misses 'as is' if the hair was further forward to avoid the large expanse of cheek which is the usual problem with side shots like this ... and of course the background further back so the shadow isn't next to the head. The problem can also be hidden with low key lighting and the key showing up the cheekbone shape to darken much of the cheek. The light would be to her left for that which requires the background further back.

Edit ... I have taken less than a dozen portraits ever so I feel I know little about the subject but this is what I would like to have seen in what you took. Some of the beautiful hair copied and placed to hide some of the cheek, her right eye selectively sharpened and the rest very slightly blurred. Her hair is so nice I wondered at my crop which was done because the hair dominated the image , rather like the man and his violin and his large uninteresting head.

Robert Capa said something like "If the photo doesn't work then get closer" [ found that quote on RustBeltRaw's web site ]

[Snowy55]

Thanks for the suggestion jcuknz. I see what you have done there.

[Dusty]

A few thoughts for you Barry:

I would suggest that you look at getting your model to stand a couple of m (6 ft) away from the wall to eliminate the heavy duty shadow that you have right behind your subject. More distance would really soften the shadow and make it more or less a non-factor in the image.

Another consideration would be to change her pose a bit and either shoot in pure profile or use a more "classic" pose. The classic "rule" in portraiture is that the subject's nose should not extend beyound the cheek line. That gives you two things; the lines from the cheek are not "broken" and it pulls the back eye out a bit more and provides a better balance (size wise) with the eye that is closer to the camera. Both will generally give you a more pleasing image.

You might also want to try to have the softbox up higher and shooting down a bit more, as that tends to give you a bit more natural looking lighting. Think about how natural light / sunlight hits the subject; unless you are shooting at sunset, the light is not as straight on as you have it.

Manfred hit it on the nail with his explanation.

Also to make the subjects shoulders appear less wide have her tilt her right /left shoulder down a bit and that shoulder just slightly turned towards the camera. Also have the camera a bit higher than the subject, not towering over her, but the camera lens axis should at the top of her head and have her jaw and head slightly forward to make her jawline stand out.
Dave.

[Snowy55]

Manfred hit it on the nail with his explanation.

Also to make the subjects shoulders appear less wide have her tilt her right /left shoulder down a bit and that shoulder just slightly turned towards the camera. Also have the camera a bit higher than the subject, not towering over her, but the camera lens axis should at the top of her head and have her jaw and head slightly forward to make her jawline stand out.
Dave.

Thanks for those tips Dave. I appreciate it and everyones comments.