Golden Beetle: playing with aperture an trying for pretty

[JBW]

I have tried to get a deeper DOF and a good looking background. Do you think I succeeded. feel free to play with the shots

original

[Stagecoach]

Brian,

I see you have used an aperture of f3.1 on this image and also retained a low ISO of 100 which helps with the noise.

If as you say you tried to get a deeper DOF you should have decreased the aperture in other words a 'higher' f No.

As for the image there's certainly an improvement in composition and note how the low ISO has gotten rid of most of the noise that has been evident in the previous shots. Another good thing about this attempt is that the background is not overpowering and your eyes are directly drawn to the bug.

Look at the centre pic full size and the sharpness of the bug a third of the way along from the rear, a higher f No could have given this same sharpness to the eye as well.

One question, why did you take this shot from so far away? It's not a catch.

Grahame

[JBW]

Hi Grahame, far away? It was at most 3 inches. I didn't want to scare the beasty.

[Stagecoach]

Brian,

From the Exif data this was taken at a focal length of 4.3mm hence why you have the wide angle of view. Have you tried zooming in (if it is possible in the macro mode on your camera) and standing further back and assessing the results. This will give you a deeper DoF but any camera movement will have a greater affect on the sharpness.

Grahame

[JBW]

Grahame, I went out to experiment with the F/ setting and found myself confused. When I switched to adjusting the shutter speed and allowing the camera to look after the rest i started to get results like this:



This does not mean that I am ignoring your advice but it is ne step at a time for this old man.

[JBW]

Brian,

From the Exif data this was taken at a focal length of 4.3mm hence why you have the wide angle of view. Have you tried zooming in (if it is possible in the macro mode on your camera) and standing further back and assessing the results. This will give you a deeper DoF but any camera movement will have a greater affect on the sharpness.

Grahame

Not with the FinePix S4200 zoom and macro just give fuzzy.

[Brownbear]

These backgrounds are prettier... Keep following Grahame's & Geoff's advice and you'll be there in no time!

[JBW]

These backgrounds are prettier... Keep following Grahame's & Geoff's advice and you'll be there in no time!

I shall but do not belittle your own contribution. You reminded me that beauty counts.

[Brownbear]

Thank you Grahame.. I'm learning from your threads, too.

I shall but do not belittle your own contribution. You reminded me that beauty counts.

[jcuknz]

Not with the FinePix S4200 zoom and macro just give fuzzy.

This is the point of using a close-up lens, just a moderate one of say 2 dioptre [500mm focus], so that you CAN use the zoom without the fuzzies. It means that the maximum you can be away from the subject [ subject to front surface of CU lens ] is 500mm but you get your tight framing with the zoom ... not by getting in close ....

How close you can get depends on the focusing power of the lens when zoomed out .... ie. my first Panasonic had a two metre nearest focus at full zoom ... add the 2 dioptre and I have a working distance of 20" > 13" ... little problem of scaring the wee fellows that far away.

I would only work the way you did if I was feeling particularly lazy ... the moment I go for a tight framing the 2d goes on the lens ....I think I worked out with your gear and its 720mm AoV zoom you do in fact get 'true macro' working this way ...I guess that could mean his eye and feelers filling the sensor.

As far as I am concerned the close focusing ability of your camera is a marketing exercise not the way to work.

If you don't want to spend up [US$25 plus P&P... B&H, NY] the cheap sets on Amazon would probably work quite well so long as you do not use the high powered ones in the set and are prepared for some loss of image quality at edges of frame ... serious if photographing a coin or stamp using and needing the whole of the sensor but otherwise of no great importance if what is around the edges of the frame is out of focus anyway.

[JBW]

This is the point of using a close-up lens, just a moderate one of say 2 dioptre [500mm focus], so that you CAN use the zoom without the fuzzies. It means that the maximum you can be away from the subject [ subject to front surface of CU lens ] is 500mm but you get your tight framing with the zoom ... not by getting in close ....

How close you can get depends on the focusing power of the lens when zoomed out .... ie. my first Panasonic had a two metre nearest focus at full zoom ... add the 2 dioptre and I have a working distance of 20" > 13" ... little problem of scaring the wee fellows that far away.

I would only work the way you did if I was feeling particularly lazy ... the moment I go for a tight framing the 2d goes on the lens ....I think I worked out with your gear and its 720mm AoV zoom you do in fact get 'true macro' working this way ...I guess that could mean his eye and feelers filling the sensor.

As far as I am concerned the close focusing ability of your camera is a marketing exercise not the way to work.

If you don't want to spend up [US$25 plus P&P... B&H, NY] the cheap sets on Amazon would probably work quite well so long as you do not use the high powered ones in the set and are prepared for some loss of image quality at edges of frame ... serious if photographing a coin or stamp using and needing the whole of the sensor but otherwise of no great importance if what is around the edges of the frame is out of focus anyway.

Actually you would work my way if you had my camera. As far as I can see there is no way to attach anything to my lens except the lens cap.

[jcuknz]

OK so Fuji were afraid you would add something like a telephoto adaptor and damage the lens which I have always considered pretty fragile and one of the reasons I 'stuck' with my FZ50 when Panasonic introduced the FZ100/150 with tromboning lenses. The FZ30 and FZ50 don't have tromboning lenses. But to try and be compact Pany had to use a tromboning lens in the competition to be a 'super-zoom'.

However people have overcome this problem of a lack of filter thread by getting a lens of the same diameter as the camera lens housing and using cellotape or electrical tape . The danger here is that when the lens retracts the tape doesn't get dragged into the camera to gum up the works. Here I have doubled up a pair of two dioptre lens of different diameters with one screwed into the camera thread and the second taped on to give me 4 dioptre.


As DIYer with my first Nikon 5700 I noticed a small ridge which was pretty close to the diameter of the thread of a step-up ring which required about 0.5mm off the diameter to fit .....I took a touch off [ I have a lathe ] and offering it to the lens it 'stuck' and remained there for perhaps three years. mounting various filters/CU lens on the ring as required. Still fits but not so firmly as before


A third solution for you would be to cut out the centre of a spare lens cap and AC glue a lens to it.

For those who are not DIYers there is the equivalent of this sold by www.SRB-Griturn.com [ which I copied ]
It is mounting a 50mm lens from my SLR to give me a 20 dioptre close-up lens ... completely unneccessary for those with a super-zoom ... the Nikon 5700 pictured only has an x8 zoom out to 280mm AoV

That is a shocking thing to do .. mounting a Vitacom on a Nikon but I was learning the hard way.
EDIT OH DEAR! Wrong photo! I was adding a telephoto adaptor but I have another photo showing the 50mm being used and posted the wrong one

[JBW]

Photo Nut, you do have fun. The taped on lens reminds me of my English motorcycle days. But my days of chopping or modifying anything are pretty much over. I would imagine that N.Z. is similar to the Philippines in one way... shipping costs are horrendous?

When the day comes that my skill level has surpassed my cameras capabilities I will buy a new set up. I have no idea just what it will be but I know it will be the camera equivalent of an 8" LightBridge telescope. Inexpensive, high quality glass, rugged, and superb for what I enjoy.

But for the foreseeable future I will be enjoying and learning with the S4200.

[Inkanyezi]

#12 Instead of cellotape for a closeup lens, I have used a cutoff medicine canister that slides over the lens and carries the closeup lens glued onto it. It won't damage the camera, but it falls off easier. A slit and a rubber band can make it steadier. Another option is an O-ring that fits precisely over the end of the lens.

[jcuknz]

I'm sorry JBW ... I thought you were keen to learn and expand on what you can do with your super-zoom.

[JBW]

I'm sorry JBW ... I thought you were keen to learn and expand on what you can do with your super-zoom.

I am keen to learn what I can do with my camera. But I have neither the money to purchase nor the skills needed to create accessories. What I can do is learn how to use all of the options on my camera. I will appreciate any and all suggestions you would care to offer on how to use what i have and when the time comes on what to upgrade to. As for what you are creating and using I love it but I am in no position and probably never will be to go down that route.
B.