Traveling in Southern Ethiopia

[Manfred M]

I've posted a number of shots of different ethnic groups and / or tribes that we visited in Southern Ethiopia. I though it might be interesting to show what the travel and living conditions were like. I would classify most of these as snapshots, so the quality is lower than what I usually post.


Road Conditions - we had to share the road with people and animals. This type of obstacle was common soon after we left Adidis Ababa on our way south to the Omo Valley. The main difference is that the roads were not paved in the south...




There were flowing rivers to cross and these had no bridges. We were there just after the end of the short rainy season (ended mid to late October). In rainy season some of the roads are totally impassable due to the volume of water running through the rivers. It's rather obvious why travel was by 4x4.




On the other hand partially dried-out rivers still had water just below the surface. Mud means lack of traction and getting stuck. Flash floods do occur and can was vehicles that are stuck downstream.




A vehicle (not part of our group) got stuck right behind us and it turned out that the driver could not engage his four-wheel drive and kept digging himself in even deeper.




Traveling in convoys is a must in case a tow is needed. It had started to rain quite hard and everyone was worried about a flash flood. Lots of people were there to help push. Eventually we managed to get the 4x4 pulled out. We never did make it to the Hamer village we were hoping to visit.




The cable ferry at the Omo River crossing had been torn away from its moorings during the recent rainy season. This meant the only "ferry" available was the traditional dugout canoe. My wife sort of enjoyed the ride...




Accomodation in this part of the country is either marginal or non-existant. Camping is a good way to stay near the tribal areas. We camped in a backwoods area near a Mursi village and a "campground" near the town of Turmi. This tent was our home for 5 days and four nights.




We had to wash in the river in the backwoods area, but in Turmi we had "showers". The water was hand drawn from a well and put into the large holding tank by hand. Cold and brisk showers after a fill up or in the morning, but not too bad in the afternoon when the water had all day to warm up in the sun.




Toilets were primative as well. This is the "shack out back", complete with flush toilets (sort of).




Flush toilets means that there was a barrel of water with a small bucket to flush with. Ethiopia is definitely a BYOTP (Bring Your Own Toilet Paper) country. "Bush toilets", were cleaner, but privacy was always iffty. The locals would show up to investigate whenever our Land Cruiser stopped somewhere.




Getting fresh meat in these remote areas was a bit problematic, so slaughtering a goat was one way to ensure a good supply. It was coated with lemon juice to preserve it. Quite tasty (rather like lamb) and tender, when cooked properly.

[Downrigger]

Thanks for posting these - really interesting series. Sturdy work, traveling in such an adventurous manner, and nice snapshots too - they document well some of your high points (and low). Was this trip service or pleasure? - took some intestinal fortitude in either case.

[Bobobird]

Intestinal fortitude - indeed.

Nice set of travel shots. Looks like you both enjoyed yourselves immensely.

[Manfred M]

Totally pleasure. We try to get into odd places around the world every year or two and this was a bit of a spur of the moment decision (a bit of a fact-finding). I would like to get back in the next year or so and set things up for some proper photography.

This area of the world has always been on my hit-list (it was our fifth trip to Africa), and recently I saw some work by the young Canadian photographyer Joey L (Joey Lawrence), so that helped move this location up on the priority list.

http://www.joeyl.com/personal-galler...le-of-mankind/

[Mike Buckley]

Great series and narrative, Manfred. Thanks for sharing it.

The series reminds me of a friend who defines "roughing it" as staying in a hotel that has no room service.

As for the shower, my first night in Morocco in 1990 was at a campground that had a tiny one-room building containing a bed. It was our last available resource other than sleeping in the car for the night, so we happily took it. The attendant assured me that a hot shower would be available the next morning, which was important because it was quite cold. When I walked around the place the next morning I found the shower: a large metal cauldron of water as in one of the above photos though with a pile of firewood stacked underneath it to heat the water.

[rpcrowe]

I'd love to have been on that trip...

[Manfred M]

Great series and narrative, Manfred. Thanks for sharing it.

The series reminds me of a friend who defines "roughing it" as staying in a hotel that has no room service.

As for the shower, my first night in Morocco in 1990 was at a campground that had a tiny one-room building containing a bed. It was our last available resource other than sleeping in the car for the night, so we happily took it. The attendant assured me that a hot shower would be available the next morning, which was important because it was quite cold. When I walked around the place the next morning I found the shower: a large metal cauldron of water as in one of the above photos though with a pile of firewood stacked underneath it to heat the water.

Sounds almost like the shower we had at Aufsicht, Namibia.



The bucket hanging up is filled with water using the bucket in the background.





Just outside of the shower was the hot water heater; coated in soot, the sun would heat up the water supply, and if that still was not hot enough, one could build a fire underneath the water holder. Water came from a rainwater cistern. If the water was too hot, one could dilute it with the cold tap while mixing it in the previously mentioned bucket.

[Manfred M]

I'd love to have been on that trip...

Sounds like I should give you a call if I get around to organizing a photo trip back....