Hi Ashwin,
Here's my setup.
Here's a video that explains the technique I'm using.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwExpFDUC9Y
Setup is easy.The hardest part is getting your timing for the drops.
Doughboy (Blowfish)
Scout (Snowscape)
Steve H (Rainy Days)
Steve H (Mustang)
Ron (Dolphin Feeding)
Iwanbogor (Funny Boy)
Taktell (Relax)
Jim B. (Balanced)
Donald (I don't think he's the one who feeds us)
Arith (Lichfield Redone)
Hi Ashwin,
Here's my setup.
Here's a video that explains the technique I'm using.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwExpFDUC9Y
Setup is easy.The hardest part is getting your timing for the drops.
When I was (much) younger, and doing just this thing with film, I built an electronic multiple flash trigger/delay/counter box.
It could be started by contact closure, light beam or sound, then had an adjustable delay before the first flash output fired, plus an interval timer for another 8 or so to create a sequence.
Of course with film, the results were not spectacular, mainly due to the delay in processing and trying again
I'll see if I can find (and scan) an old print or two. Due to time and costs, not many prints exist.
Cheers,
Hi Dave,
I have seen a unit that does what you describe(not exactly but close) on the internet,http://www.bobrigby.com/brp_products...utterbeam.html I would love to see your photos.
Last edited by Jim B.; 2nd February 2010 at 03:10 PM.
Thank you Jim,
Very good improvised set up, you are right to say that hardest part to get the desired result is timing. I was thinking that you might have Shoot HD Video, possibly with higher frame rate than normal frame rate of 25 fps to avoid blurriness and get sharpness, and then get print from suitable frame.
In old days I used to film such shots in my 16 mm Movie camera with higher frame rate, and was getting prints from suitable frame, but this was time consuming as, getting Movie Roll processed will take more than 15 days...
This is a fine image of an interesting (and ubiquitous) subject.
I recently read a fascinating book called "In the blink of an eye" that contains high speed photography of surface tension effects, among other things, accompanied by explanations of the physical processes and descriptions of how the images were captured. It's well worth a look if you're interested in this kind of thing.
Very nice photo.
Ashwin,
I have a 5DII,but never considered using it's video capability.Video might give me some interesting results.Now,I'll need to do some video research.One of the aspects of photography I really enjoy, there is always something new to learn.
Thanks,Will.I'll give that a look.
Keep in mind that to get SHARP FREEZE ACTION, you will need to film at higher frame rate than normal, normal filming speed is 25fps. Your lighting position is OK. but for video you will require continous lighting
another interesting photography is getting 360 degree view in a single click, here is a link
http://www.0-360.com/index.asp?ID=go...FUcwpAodY0j-0Q
Last edited by Ashwin; 2nd February 2010 at 03:07 PM.
Congratulation JIm
In Mini Competition #71,
your entry is getting record breaking points
Last edited by Ashwin; 3rd February 2010 at 03:58 AM.
The 0-360 is wild!
5DII shoots video at 30fps.Not going to be fast enough,I'm guessing.
For those in the UK the current edition of Practical Photography (March 2009) has an article on this exact subject. Chris Culpit is the photographer in question and he uses all sorts of dyes, flash gels and even milk in the water to get some really cool effects from the droplets. He uses a very similar setup, with two remoteley fired flashguns or a photogate on a delay circuit that triggers when a drop falls through it.
His blog is well worth checking out and has lots of information on shooting drops and also a lot of his own photos too.
It's at: http://www.drippy2009.blogspot.com/
Rich
Wow Jim - this is the closest result I've seen for a while
Hi Jim,
To date, I have failed to find my milk drop picture(s)
However, I did find these three prints, which I scanned and PP'd a bit today.
Taken between 25 and 30 years ago, with the same trigger unit, but set in sequence mode, they are far (very far) from ideal, but show what can be done so easily these days with digital
Subject and intent is fairly evident, it is a shame I didn't have more control of the background though
I can't remember now: I either had a mixture of different sized flashes, or I triggered the same one several times, which may explain the dimness of the last exposure in the middle shot
I wouldn't dare guess what camera and exposure settings I used as I don't seem to have any notes
If you can't see them full size here with the lightbox, try this link to them on PBase
I must also apoligise for a nasty scan band on two of them, I cloned it out on the first, then forgot on the last two, doh!
Anyway, I hope you find them interesting,
Last edited by Dave Humphries; 4th February 2010 at 10:49 PM.
Hi Dave,
Thanks for posting these.This type of photography always amazes me.#3 is my favorite.Was photography a hobby for you then or were you taking classes?
Hi Jim,
Thanks, #3 is my favorite too. Although not sure I did it justice in the PP, I see it still isn't horizontal
Well, I was taking classes - but only because photography was my hobby back then
I note that seems to apply just as much today as back then, from some members posts here.
The motorbike "virtual bridge" entry in the themed challenge shows how easy this can be these days, no need to recourse to a multi-second exposure on "B" and multiple flashes to illuminate the scene - I suppose the closest analogy is the popular "painting with light" technique these days.
Cheers,