1st wedding as an amateur

[Colin Southern]

i was just commenting that it was helpful that the exposure lock button which i use happens to be the same button when locking flash - that was all

That's my point though; I've assumed that you'd only use EL / FEL because the normal metering wasn't giving you the correct result - which leads me to "why wasn't the normal metering giving you the correct result?" And all I could conclude was "possibly because you don't yet fully understand how it works - the types of things that upset it - how they upset it - and how to compensate for it". I honestly can't remember the last time I had to use that button; it's probably well over 5 years ago -- all I ever need to do is dial in a correct amount of EC, and I'd eat my hat if that wasn't all you needed to to too. At the end of the day, so long as you're getting the right exposures than that's all that matters, but EL is a "one-shot" thing, whereas EC / FEC stays in place until cancelled - and that's a LOT faster if your set is under the same or similar lighting and/or conditions.

yeah i'll be getting through batteries like there's no tomorrow i reckon - had a decent box 40 aa's held back for some months & not yet opened so they'll start me off - but i'll take as many charged ones as i can get my hands on too

Just make sure they're compatible with the flash beforehand.

im only using auto iso without the flash, it was just a comment that i made about how mounting the flash then makes the iso a constant of 400.

This one has been bugging me. I don't use auto-ISO a lot (and even less with a flash) and I just couldn't think of a valid technical reason why it would be limited to 400. So I did some Googling for quite a while - read a lot of things - and came to a deep and meaningful understanding that nobody else really understand why either. Not to be out-done, I asked Canon's technical guru Chuck Westfall (who was kind enough to answer my eMail even though he's still on Christmas break) and ...

... nobody has ever given him a technical explanation either. So I suspect that one is destined to die with the team who wrote the code. The 1D X is getting a MAJOR firmware upgrade in a few weeks, so who knows - perhaps they'll upen it up for my camera then - will have to wait and see.

Regardless, I still can't see any valid reason for needing auto-ISO with flash in a wedding shoot environment, so you should be fine with manual ISO selection.

on another note, ive had some email exchanges with the groom today over dates/times to meet him & the bride - when i mentioned that part of the reason to meet them both is to discuss their expectations he informed me that "they dont have expectations because this is my first wedding". i've got further questions to put to them surrounding what they want, how they want me to execute it, timings, list of images (to name just some), but none the less his words today were welcoming

Well that's certainly made my day! First time I've come across someone essentially saying "please shoot my wedding - I'll pay you - I know you haven't done one before, so I don't mind what kind of result we get". What a great guy; personally I'd be looking for the hidden camera because I'd be thinking I was being set up!

[wellsie82]

That's my point though; I've assumed that you'd only use EL / FEL because the normal metering wasn't giving you the correct result - which leads me to "why wasn't the normal metering giving you the correct result?" And all I could conclude was "possibly because you don't yet fully understand how it works - the types of things that upset it - how they upset it - and how to compensate for it". I honestly can't remember the last time I had to use that button; it's probably well over 5 years ago -- all I ever need to do is dial in a correct amount of EC, and I'd eat my hat if that wasn't all you needed to to too. At the end of the day, so long as you're getting the right exposures than that's all that matters, but EL is a "one-shot" thing, whereas EC / FEC stays in place until cancelled - and that's a LOT faster if your set is under the same or similar lighting and/or conditions.

spot metering is something ive used a bit since i became aware of it really, ive used it on a few shoots to try out & it helps my workflow & my composition in some respects - in that i don't just half press & fire with the subject in the centre. instead ive half pressed over a face, locked the exposure in then recomposed with the face off centre. not something i'll be doing at the wedding but the change in workflow has taught me how to use it in tricky lighting to keep the subject exposed better

This one has been bugging me. I don't use auto-ISO a lot (and even less with a flash) and I just couldn't think of a valid technical reason why it would be limited to 400. So I did some Googling for quite a while - read a lot of things - and came to a deep and meaningful understanding that nobody else really understand why either. Not to be out-done, I asked Canon's technical guru Chuck Westfall (who was kind enough to answer my eMail even though he's still on Christmas break) and ...

... nobody has ever given him a technical explanation either. So I suspect that one is destined to die with the team who wrote the code. The 1D X is getting a MAJOR firmware upgrade in a few weeks, so who knows - perhaps they'll upen it up for my camera then - will have to wait and see.

Regardless, I still can't see any valid reason for needing auto-ISO with flash in a wedding shoot environment, so you should be fine with manual ISO selection.

yes the manual iso is the way to go - you & a few others have suggested iso 400 (depending on light) so ive got some starting points anyway. ive said to the groom today it might be an idea to get some shots of them at the venue if the lighting at our visit is the same as what it'll be on the wedding day - then i can try some settings out & put them on C1 or C2 ready for the day

Well that's certainly made my day! First time I've come across someone essentially saying "please shoot my wedding - I'll pay you - I know you haven't done one before, so I don't mind what kind of result we get". What a great guy; personally I'd be looking for the hidden camera because I'd be thinking I was being set up!

i was surprised their expectations hadn't changed but i remain mindful that this is all coming from the same person. only when i meet the bride & bring up the same discussion will it properly register with me

[William W]

In my opinion, "Auto ISO" is a function that really needs a COMPLETE understanding of the interrelationships with all the semi automatic Camera Modes (Av Tv and P), before it is used - ever.

Based upon my understanding of how Auto ISO (in Canon Cameras) works, I cannot at this time see any situation that I would engage Auto ISO, when using a Flash.

WW

[Digital]

I agree with Colin. If the couple, especially the bride, does not have any expectations, although they are going to pay you, I would (if this was me) be looking for the nearest exit.
In other words, this sounds to good to be true.


Bruce

[RustBeltRaw]

Based upon my understanding of how Auto ISO (in Canon Cameras) works, I cannot at this time see any situation that I would engage Auto ISO, when using a Flash.

Seconded. You may find that the more settings you leave on automatic, the less predictable your camera system's behavior becomes. Especially in difficult conditions. I am one of those manual-only nuts, but not because it's pure, right, honest, or any of that artsy bullcrap. It's because I know exactly what my camera and flashes will do when I hit the shutter. That said, I do use aperture and shutter priority modes in predictable, strong light, and TTL when combined with manual camera settings. Horses for courses, and all that.

In my opinion, "Auto ISO" is a function that really needs a COMPLETE understanding of the interrelationships with all the semi automatic Camera Modes (Av Tv and P), before it is used - ever.

It seems strange that Auto ISO, when enabled with manual shutter and aperture settings, does not allow one to set exposure compensation (at least not with my cameras - a Canon 60D and very used 1D mkIII). Auto ISO plus manual settings locks you into 0EV as determined by the current metering mode.

So I did some Googling for quite a while - read a lot of things - and came to a deep and meaningful understanding that nobody else really understand why either. Not to be out-done, I asked Canon's technical guru Chuck Westfall (who was kind enough to answer my eMail even though he's still on Christmas break) and ...

... nobody has ever given him a technical explanation either. So I suspect that one is destined to die with the team who wrote the code.

I suspect someone, somewhere, decided that ISO400 was the maximum ISO one would need with an on-camera flash, and set a hard ceiling to keep noise down and auto-mode users happy. Remember, these are the same people who write 1D-series manuals that tell you, first thing, to put the camera in Program mode.

[William W]

It seems strange that Auto ISO, when enabled with manual shutter and aperture settings, does not allow one to set exposure compensation (at least not with my cameras - a Canon 60D and very used 1D mkIII). Auto ISO plus manual settings locks you into 0EV as determined by the current metering mode.

There is no button / dial to execute EC.


***


AUTO ISO and CANON EOS CAMERAS:

I have been investigating the functionality and the applications of AUTO ISO for several months.

My work in this area is mainly predicted upon realistic shooting scenarios and then applying various combinations of Auto ISO /Camera Modes, using different EOS Digital Cameras.

It is important to note that, Canon Auto ISO, does not necessarily function the same as other Manufacturer’s Auto ISO.

***

The parameters affecting exposure are: Aperture (Av); Shutter Speed (Tv) and ISO.

*

Consideration of (Canon) AUTO ISO and Manual and the three semi-Automatic Camera Modes (i.e. M Mode, Av Mode, Tv Mode and P Mode):

In an EOS Camera one can set each manually, or allow the camera to choose.
The eight combinations on an EOS CAMERA with Auto ISO available are and the general outline of the response to each combination setting, are:

1. M mode, Manual ISO
Response: All Manual Operations.

2. M Mode, ISO Auto
Response: Av and Tv are set manually; camera chooses ISO

3. Av Mode, Manual ISO
Response: Av and ISO are set manually; camera chooses Tv

4. Av Mode, ISO Auto
Response: Av set manually; camera chooses combination of Tv and ISO

5. Tv Mode, Manual ISO
Response: Tv and ISO set manually, camera chooses Av

6. Tv Mode, ISO Auto
Response: Tv set manually, camera chooses combination of Av and ISO

7. P Mode, Manual ISO
Response: ISO set manually; camera chooses combination of Av and Tv

8. P Mode, ISO Auto
Response: camera chooses combination of Av, Tv and ISO


Exposure compensation (EC), is meaningless in Case 1, because the camera is not making any automatic choices which require to be overridden by EC.


Exposure compensation in Cases 3 to 8 inclusive is achieved by using the Quick Control Dial (QCD) whilst the TTL Metering is active and with the setting being persistent for future exposures.

There however is an issue in Case 2 when using a Cano EOS Camera. (M Mode, ISO Auto)


Obviously Exposure Compensation has meaning in Case 2: the camera is making an automated choice of the ISO setting in order to achieve what it thinks is correct exposure; but if, for any of the usual reasons the Photographer wishes to override that automated selection then EC would be the functionality to achieve that desired outcome. The problem is, on any EOS camera – it is impossible so to do.

One reason for this may be that there is no spare dial with which to apply the EC, as when the camera is in M mode (normally), the Photographer has aperture and shutter speed set (one way round or the other) using the MAIN DIAL and QUICK CONTROL DIAL, so therefore QCD is not available to set EC as it is in other modes.

I and others have been quite vocal in this regard - as it seems to me and some of my colleagues that there are more than enough buttons on any EOS Camera to allow this to be overcome: and there have been several simple firmware upgrade workarounds that have been suggested.

But so far, Canon has failed to respond to these ideas / requests.

***

So I did some Googling for quite a while - read a lot of things - and came to a deep and meaningful understanding that nobody else really understand why either. Not to be out-done, I asked Canon's technical guru Chuck Westfall (who was kind enough to answer my eMail even though he's still on Christmas break) and ...

... nobody has ever given him a technical explanation either. So I suspect that one is destined to die with the team who wrote the code.

plus -

I suspect someone, somewhere, decided that ISO400 was the maximum ISO one would need with an on-camera flash, and set a hard ceiling to keep noise down and auto-mode users happy. Remember, these are the same people who write 1D-series manuals that tell you, first thing, to put the camera in Program mode.

I think that you are on to more, than you might suspect. The functionality of the EOS Camera in P Mode and Auto ISO when the camera is set thus and there is a Flash Active, is quite complex.

Trialling common shooting scenarios, with the above combination, has been taking up a good part of my 2013.

BTW, don't dismiss P Mode, it can be very useful - but I would argue that it takes more understanding than Tv or Av Mode, but I would equally argue it is very handy for one to master it.


WW

[wellsie82]

afternoon all

the ettl flash has turned up & so far ive used it in the house one night this week after work to "play around". im at an indoor party tonight so everything is on charge in readiness for some practice

it's already clear to me why so many of you have said to use the camera in M mode if the flash is set to ettl

in fact, a lot of the answers to my questions i had perhaps asked prior to getting the flash are now apparent (my normal work-flow is to research something a bit, try it out, then ask if im stuck but in this case i was asking lots of questions before even trying the ettl flash out)

ive seen for myself now that with the ettl mounted/in-use, it'll obtain the exposure on my subject, the shutter controls the amount of ambient light hitting the sensor & the aperture controls the DoF. if the iso is in auto, you're really unable to control the shutter or the aperture.

one of my questions for today might sound daft, but id like to know how the camera deems the subject to be. ie, the above controls the ambient light & DoF, the flash emits enough output to expose the subject correctly, but is the subject the middle of the frame or one of the 9 AF points it might of selected?

my final question is surrounding the advice about using iso 400 when ive set the camera to M mode - clearly noise is a consideration if the iso goes too far & the iso being too small means you probably wouldn't be able to let much ambient light in, is iso 400 the happy medium/starting point?

[Colin Southern]

afternoon all

Still 'mornin here (camera is focusing better than my eyes!)

it's already clear to me why so many of you have said to use the camera in M mode if the flash is set to ettl

It's because you need control of the ambient light. There's also a setting in the camera to set the shutterspeed to 1/250th in Av mode whenever a flash is being used.

ive seen for myself now that with the ettl mounted/in-use, it'll obtain the exposure on my subject, the shutter controls the amount of ambient light hitting the sensor & the aperture controls the DoF. if the iso is in auto, you're really unable to control the shutter or the aperture.

The shutter controls the amount of ambient light only until you hit X-Sync speed - after that, shutter and aperture affect both flash and ambient (so the only way to vary the flash to ambient ratio is by varying the effective flash output (ie change the brightness or the distance).

one of my questions for today might sound daft, but id like to know how the camera deems the subject to be. ie, the above controls the ambient light & DoF, the flash emits enough output to expose the subject correctly, but is the subject the middle of the frame or one of the 9 AF points it might of selected?

Basically it notes the values in all the metering zones as they are with just ambient light, and again with the preflash light. The zones that change the most are considered to be the subject. ETTL uses the focus distance (assuming flash head isn't tilted), but ETTL II (which you have) doesn't. It also ignores AF point selection.

my final question is surrounding the advice about using iso 400 when ive set the camera to M mode - clearly noise is a consideration if the iso goes too far & the iso being too small means you probably wouldn't be able to let much ambient light in, is iso 400 the happy medium/starting point?

400 or 800 tops. If you need to go beyond that then you're probably shooting the inside of a cow - in a dark cave - at night, as we say.

High ISO doesn't give noise per se; what it does is lower you dynamic range so you're signal is closer to the noise floor so you need to remember 2 things (1) DON'T UNDER-EXPOSE and (2) frame the shot to minimise cropping in post-production. Normally the noise isn't visible, but it BECOMES visible when you correct any under-exposure in post production.

Hope this helps!

[William W]

my final question is surrounding the advice about using iso 400 when ive set the camera to M mode - clearly noise is a consideration if the iso goes too far & the iso being too small means you probably wouldn't be able to let much ambient light in, is iso 400 the happy medium/starting point?

I don’t think it is a good for you to have preconceived ISO settings.

It would be better for you to assess the EV of any shooting situation and determine the ISO that you require to give you the range of Apertures and Shutter Speeds that you require and also (importantly) to accommodate the RANGE of the Flash Unit that you will be using and to then consider the type of lighting you wish to employ for the shot.

Re your comment about noise: If you use High ISO (higher than 400) then correct exposure is more critical

WW

[wellsie82]

so i went to the venue yesterday & met the couple

they reiterated his previous comments that im doing them a favour & essentially told me to chill out a bit (chance would be a fine thing)

anyway, i spent two hours at the venue exploring & scouting locations for the day. i went armed with my 6d, 24-105mm & used my ettl flash off camera using a transmitter/receiver set-up. unfortunately a diffuser (small cap placed over the flash) & flash bender (to diffuse/spread/bounce light) haven't turned up yet so my flash was essentially naked & i was bouncing off walls/ceilings were possible

i used my girlfriend as the model & placed her in the spots where i'll be placing the couple on the day. i stayed in manual, used an iso of 400, had my flash on auto/ettl throughout & only really varied my shutter speed & flash compensation to suit. indoors, the lighting will be the same as on the day & ive noted my settings for each location so at least ive got a starting point come the day itself

the shots of the couple on their own im happy with whether they're inside or outside. my concern is if the weather is poor & i have to do the formals/group shots inside - the venue is quite cosy/small & the only place i can find to do them is on the stairs

they do not have a big list of group shots/formals as they prefer candids afterwards, so i think the most people i'll have in a group shot is between 10 & 12

the stairs are broken into two flights so i can either be on the bottom floor facing 10-12 who are stood on the stairs going up (look up at them), or i can get onto the middle floor & shoot down on people

i had a good play with settings & found bouncing the flash tough to prevent the "rabbit in headlights" exposure so i went iso640, 1/40 & f13, flash was -2/3. this produced some harsh shadows so come the day itself im thinking of asking my girlfriend to stand beside me with the flash on a monopod & put a shoot-through umbrella on it to soften the lighting

the lens has IS so 1/40 was ok for me (i can lean against the wall/banister too) & the ambient light/flash balance seemed ok, i guess my main question here is the aperture. i went f13 because i might have 2-3 layers worth of guests who all need to be sharp - is this over the top? i never used f4 for example because i didn't think it would render enough people sharply. would something like f8 perhaps be better?

is the shoot-through umbrella/flash bender a better idea?

[JR1]

Love your photos thread too long to read, sorry, I hope you have public liability and public indemnity insurance

[Jim B.]

This will help you with your f/stop calculations. Dof

[Charles Mackay]

Hi, I have done 2 weddings as a guest and one as an amateur photographer. In all 3 cases I sat down with the bride and groom to discuss exactly what they wanted several weeks ahead of the wedding to ensure the 'standard' shots were covered, so any 'impromptu' candids were a bonus. I doubled up on most of my gear, camera bodies, flashguns, lenses, (and batteries!) so that either/any one failing would not be a disaster. Outside I used largely continuous shooting mode, in order to select the best shots from fleeting, changing expressions later. Inside I had an auxiliary battery pack directly attached to the flashgun, for quick recycling and the ability to take several shots quickly of a scene without having to wait for the flash. The importance of checking out the venue with the bride and groom and discussion of (including management of) their expectations cannot be over-emphasised, so with that done you can concentrate on your brief, enjoy the day and produce some good photos.

Charles

[rpcrowe]

I shot my first wedding (in the early 1970's) using a Graflex XL rangefinder medium format camera with a Honeywell Auto/Strobonar flash that had that new fangled auto exposure control. My lens was the standard 90mm for the 6x9 cm format. I had a Yashicamat 6x6 cm TLR with a second Honeywell strobe for my backup...

Over the years, I used various cameras such as the Rolleiflex and Mamiyaflex. I never had any supplemental lenses until I gravitated to the Hasselblad 500C with a Carl Zeiss 80mm f/2.8 Planar lens and a Carl Zeiss 150mm f/4 Sonnar telephoto for portraits.

I never thought that I was under equipped. I used the Mamiyaflex as a backup (until I eventually could afford another Hasselblad) and purchased a Mamiya Sekor 55mm f/4.5 lens.

Photographers did not have the plethora of varied focal lengths and wide aperture lenses that photographers of today are blessed (cursed with). Of course, wedding coverage in those days was quite a bit more formal and there was very little photojournalistic style coverage.

[Glenn NK]

OK, the wedding must be over by now.

How did it go?

[wellsie82]

OK, the wedding must be over by now.

How did it go?

sorry for the delayed response - it's actually next week

ive done some testing with the ttl flash over the last month or so which i'll share with you below (groom has said if his pics next week turn out the same way he'd be happy):-

http://www.flickr.com/photos/wellsie82/11933095863/ - bounced off the ceiling

http://www.flickr.com/photos/wellsie82/11907538915/ - practice exposing for the subject with the flash whilst capturing the atmosphere/ambient light in the background

http://www.flickr.com/photos/wellsie82/11907984144/ - subjects too far away to bounce so pointed flash directly at them whilst on camera (won't be doing this unless i can really help it next week

http://www.flickr.com/photos/wellsie82/12412866183/ - one of my favs last weekend using a flash bender - was stood 5-10 feet away - 6d in M mode

http://www.flickr.com/photos/wellsie82/12440216315/ - again 6d in M mode - capturing the ambient light

http://www.flickr.com/photos/wellsie82/12463891693/ - indoors at a soft play centre - 6d in M mode

http://www.jasonwells.co.uk/Photogra...IMG_3042-M.jpg - yet to go onto my flickr page

im certainly feeling more confident with the set-up which includes using the new flash & a bender to soften light when the subjects are close to me. also feeling more confident with the camera being in manual mode. my workflow with the flash mounted is select iso to allow for decent range of exposures, select the aperture to control DoF, then the shutter to allow the amount of ambient light to hit the sensor. ive been impressed with the performance of the flash

still intending to use 6d at all times, mainly with the 24-105mm & with 50mm as backup. want to use 85mm for the couple when im getting shots of the couple only

my partner will have the 550d during the ceremony & will get what shots she can from the back (bride entering), B&G at the end of the aisle. aside from that she'll be helping me in all other respects & will be at my side (directing the off-camera flash, helping to get the shots i need, getting people in the right places & making sure they're all looking nice)

visited the venue a month ago & spent 2 hours wondering the venue, using my partner as a test model to try & practice my settings. that'll give me a starting point come the day itself

cleared 50gb of cards down today (i know i wont need that much even shooting in raw) & got 50 aa batteries (overkill i know). got 3 spare batteries for my 6d & one spare for the 550d. very little else i can do now except print off my settings/list of images to obtain etc

[Colin Southern]

ive done some testing with the ttl flash over the last month or so which i'll share with you below (groom has said if his pics next week turn out the same way he'd be happy):-

I looked over previous replies, but I'm not clear on which flash you bought in the end?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/wellsie82/11933095863/ - bounced off the ceiling

Just be aware that ceailing bounces can give you unflattering "office lighting" (you can actually see it a little in this image is you know what you're looking for). If you end up in that situation, a quick and dirty work-around is:

- Put a wide select around each eye and eyebrow

- Put a BIG feather on the selection (50px) (Shift F6)

- Duplicate the layer (Control + J)

- Change blending mode to screen

- Reduce layer opacity to suit (usually to only around 3 or 4%)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/wellsie82/11907538915/ - practice exposing for the subject with the flash whilst capturing the atmosphere/ambient light in the background

http://www.flickr.com/photos/wellsie82/11907984144/ - subjects too far away to bounce so pointed flash directly at them whilst on camera (won't be doing this unless i can really help it next week

http://www.flickr.com/photos/wellsie82/12412866183/ - one of my favs last weekend using a flash bender - was stood 5-10 feet away - 6d in M mode

http://www.flickr.com/photos/wellsie82/12440216315/ - again 6d in M mode - capturing the ambient light

http://www.flickr.com/photos/wellsie82/12463891693/ - indoors at a soft play centre - 6d in M mode

http://www.jasonwells.co.uk/Photogra...IMG_3042-M.jpg - yet to go onto my flickr page

They're all looking reasonably presentable, which is a great start. Just remember you need to be able to do this CONSISTENTLY during the wedding.

im certainly feeling more confident with the set-up which includes using the new flash & a bender to soften light when the subjects are close to me. also feeling more confident with the camera being in manual mode. my workflow with the flash mounted is select iso to allow for decent range of exposures, select the aperture to control DoF, then the shutter to allow the amount of ambient light to hit the sensor. ive been impressed with the performance of the flash

ETTL II is pretty good. Often a FEC of -0.6 is a good starting point to avoid that "over-flashed" look.

my partner will have the 550d during the ceremony & will get what shots she can from the back (bride entering), B&G at the end of the aisle. aside from that she'll be helping me in all other respects & will be at my side (directing the off-camera flash, helping to get the shots i need, getting people in the right places & making sure they're all looking nice)

When you're "up against it" having an assistant like this is a god-send.

visited the venue a month ago & spent 2 hours wondering the venue, using my partner as a test model to try & practice my settings. that'll give me a starting point come the day itself

That'll pay big dividends. I'm currently reading "an Astronaut's guide to like on earth" by Chris Hadfield - you would not believe the extent to which those guys rehearse things; every situation and combination imaginable.

cleared 50gb of cards down today (i know i wont need that much even shooting in raw) & got 50 aa batteries (overkill i know). got 3 spare batteries for my 6d & one spare for the 550d. very little else i can do now except print off my settings/list of images to obtain etc

All set to "strap on and feel the G's"

[wellsie82]

I looked over previous replies, but I'm not clear on which flash you bought in the end?

canon 430 - not the most powerful but from what i read it'll do the job & my group shots don't involve large numbers of people. not currently doing enough flash togging to warrant a bigger spend atm

ETTL II is pretty good. Often a FEC of -0.6 is a good starting point to avoid that "over-flashed" look.

i think that's often been one of my first starting points actually (LR doesn't show the FEC in its exif by default). ive got a customised option to control the FEC very quickly should i need to. i've shot enough with it to see the main changes in flash outputs such as blowing out chunks of faces with +2 Vs given a more natural look with with - FEC.

That'll pay big dividends. I'm currently reading "an Astronaut's guide to like on earth" by Chris Hadfield - you would not believe the extent to which those guys rehearse things; every situation and combination imaginable.

christ i bet! bet it's also a good read too!

[wellsie82]

Evening all,

Well the wedding is all done & dusted, not only that but the editing is all complete too & the couple are extremely happy with the results.

It was always my intention to undercharge & over deliver so that paid off. The original agreement was for me to share with them every image I took in an unedited format - them to pick their best 50-100 images & I would go away & edit them.

In the end though I took it upon myself to select the best 500 & have uploaded these into a private gallery for them.

So what did I learn? It's bloody hard work & doing it on my own would of been a non-starter.

I need to give people more space in the frame & by that I mean zoom out. A few hands/feet were trimmed in camera which of course I couldn't rescue in post processing.

Controlling of the flash - was always going to be my weak point having used the flash so little. By the end of the night I was controlling the amount of flash light hitting the sensor with my aperture but earlier in the day I was using FEC only - this lead to overexposed images - some of which were beyond repair.

Balance group images with the "couple shots". The bride & groom were never too fussed on shots of the two of them but I had intended to spend 30-40 mins in the grounds of the venue taking portraits - blurred backgrounds, f1.8 - you know the stuff. Unfortunately the 90 min window we had for images wasn't enough (people were spread over two floors so finding everyone was painful to say the least) & when given the option the couple wanted me to finish the group shots instead of getting shots just of the both of them. Something I feel they might live to regret but I had to respect their decision. Had it of been outside or all in the same room, I think it would of been easier to source everyone which would of in turn, quickened up the group pics. As you'll see from the "people" gallery on my site, the bulk of my portrait experience comes from posing people or getting candid shots in controlled lighting - I wasn't able to utilise this & I feel it's now a "gap" in my wedding portfolio.

Don't rely solely on flash lighting. It was a lovely day & although 99% of the shots were taken inside, the sun was lighting the room up quite well up until 3-4pm.

Don't stay too long at the venue - I was there from 11am-11pm. It made for an extremely long day but it did enable me to capture everything from the build-up through to the dancing. Should I ever do another, I would agree an end time.

Culling/rating all the images then editing 500 images was my choice because a) he's a friend & b) I wanted to get them something asap to yay/nay to put my worried mind at rest. I would do that many again.

Anyway, you guys all helped me tremendously in the run-up. Some of you put my mind at ease, some of you guided me with settings & talking about your experiences, others recalled horror stories & nearly put me off. My best 50 odd images (and these still need to be trimmed down) are online at http://www.jasonwells.co.uk/Photography/Weddings - if any of you have five minutes I wouldn't mind hearing some feedback seeing as you all know your stuff.

Thanks once again :-)

[Digital]

It is good to hear that your wedding shoot went well. Congratulations.


Bruce