What's a good brand of extension tubes?

[hopeg]

I'm looking into getting some extension tubes until one day I can afford a good macro lens, but I'm not sure what is a good brand to go with. I have a Nikon D5100 with two kit lenses 18-55 & 55-200. Do any of you have any advice on any particular brands of extension tubes? Thanks!

[chauncey]

Extension tubes are nothing but air...I use Kenko myself.

[Andrew76]

Extension tubes are nothing but air...I use Kenko myself.

Well, that's not exactly true. Some are, as Chauncy says, just air. Those ones are quite cost effective, but don't transmit any of the electrical signals from your lens to camera, and vice versa. Rendering your lens effectively manual. This isn't a huge deal if you're comfortable using a manual lens. I'm not sure (being a Canon shooter myself), how the D5100 would handle that.

[PhotomanJohn]

Hope - I use the Kenko tubes as well and they are adequate and better than many others. They are the Nikon versions and have the electrical contacts to allow the communication between camera and lens which is needed for metering, focus and exposure setting since your lenses don't have aperture adjustment rings.

John

[William W]

. Do any of you have any advice on any particular brands of extension tubes? Thanks!

I also recommend the most recent Model Kenko, and I recommend that you buy the set of three.

As already mentioned, there is more than just air to consider.
As well as the electrical connections there is also the rigidity and quality of make, especially the locking device on the bayonet mount.
And more: the quality and finish of the inside of the tubes such that Flare and Reflections are minimized.

Some of the cheaper tubes have poor locking pins and I have known at least one lens to fall off.

WW

[gregj1763]

One more vote for Kenko here

[DanK]

Another vote for the Kenko set. They are sturdy enough that you can stack them. I've used a set for 3 or 4 years with no problems.

[Inkanyezi]

A little tip on how to use the extension tubes.

When you have extension tubes, the range of focusing, the focus span, of the lens is very limited. In fact, before you have learned how to find focus, your images may turn out blurred even though you saw them sharper in the viewfinder, or the camera might block the release due to not finding focus.

There are basically two ways of finding focus with extension tubes, either with the in-focus indicator in the viewfinder, page 61 in the manual, or with live view on the rear monitor. In both cases, you do the actual focusing by rocking the camera back and forth slightly, until you find focus. It is also possible to find focus by zooming, although this also changes the size of your subject more dramatically than just rocking in focus.

Mind that you get very very close with the extension tubes. When extensions are used on the 18-55 lens, you might even get too close, finding focus only within the lens itself, behind its front element. This occurs at the short focal length, where the extension tube is longer than the focal length.

The extremely short distance from the lens to your subject also has other implications, as shading the light onto the subject or scaring away small insects.

With extension tubes, you get higher magnification with shorter focal length, but it also takes you much closer.

It is easier to use a lens with fixed focal length with the extension tubes, and for example a macro lens should render a better result than zoom lenses. As the macro lens also has a large focus span, it is easier to work, and AF often can fine-tune focus when you use extensions and a macro lens.

[DanK]

There are basically two ways of finding focus with extension tubes, either with the in-focus indicator in the viewfinder, page 61 in the manual, or with live view on the rear monitor. In both cases, you do the actual focusing by rocking the camera back and forth slightly, until you find focus.

To clarify, moving the camera to obtain focus is often done if you don't have the camera fully supported, e.g., if you are using a monopod and shooting bugs. However, if you are going to be using a tripod, you can focus manually using the focusing ring on the lens. To get accurate focus, I usually use live view, move the focusing area over the part of the image on which I want focus to be clearest, and then magnify the view 5x or 10x.

One disadvantage of tubes with the kit lenses is that the viewfinder will get very dark. In essence, you are taking a fraction of the regular field of view, and hence a fraction of the light, and spreading it over the entire viewfinder. This will be particularly severe at the long end.

One advantage of starting with tubes is that if you decide you like macro work (not a given, because it is technically very demanding, and a lot of people find it is too frustrating), you can use the tubes with a dedicated macro lens when you get one, to increase magnification.

[inkista]

Hope, one more reason you want to pay more for the tubes that have the electrical contacts on them is that if you're using G lenses (such as your 18-55, and 55-200) you won't have any means of aperture control, as you would with D lenses that have aperture rings on the lenses. That's why the $10 eBay jobs tend not to be worth it.

The Kenkos are great, but if you want a cheaper brand with contacts (but lower build quality), there are the generic Pro-Optic tubes out there. Adorama sells them. If you didn't mind compromising on build even farther, I'd mention the "budget" all-plastic set, but I think Adorama only sells those in Canon and mirrorless mounts, which should say something.

[William W]

More about how to find focus and the shooting position the camera: -

As well as moving ("rocking") the camera back and forth if the rig is supported by a monopod or using the focus ring of the lens, if the camera is supported by a Tripod . . .

When using a Tripod, after placing the tripod in the general position for the shot the whole camera and lens rig can be moved into position by using Focussing Rails which allow the Photographer to make very fine adjustments of the camera's position.

This can be achieved by a one rail arrangement, which just allows for the camera and lens to move in an out: or a two rail set which allows the camera and lens to move in and out and also sideways, into position.

Focussing Rails can be used with a Macro lens too.

Focussing are most usually employed when the Subject is static and the shooting environment is controlled.

This is a two rail set:




Obviously its understood that you're on a budget at the moment, as you mention that Extension Tubes are a first step and that you are saving for a Macro Lens. Focussing Rails are probably not an high priority for you.

But it is worthy to note that, if you get interested in macro work to any reasonable depth, you will require a budget for other gear, besides just the macro lens.

A Tripod, or Monopod, or both will probably become an essential item; an Head for the Tripod; Flash Equipment; and Flash Modifiers, the Modifiers can often be made DIY.


WW