Upgrading my entry level equipment

[Nitrouspizza]

Hey guys, long time no see. I've got a small question. I have a budget of about $300.00-$500.00 and a nikon d3100 with the kit 18-55 vr. My question per se is this: What should be the next step equipmentwise on my career? I mainly shoot small modeling jobs, I cover political campaigns and do a lot of publicity but I want to take the next step in terms of image sharpness/overall quality. Should I save for a new camera? Should I invest in glass?

I'll appreciate any advice folks!

[Shadowman]

Samples of what you can do with the kit lens would help.

[RustBeltRaw]

If you are already shooting small modeling jobs and political campaigns, a hot shoe flash might be worth a look. It will let you start using light creatively for the modeling work, and should be a big help when shooting low-light indoor stuff for the campaigns.

The D3100 does not have a Commander flash mode, which would let you use the flash on auto-exposure iTTL mode off-camera. Fortunately, most Nikon flashes include an optical slave eye, which will fire them when the sensor sees another flash, such as the on-camera pop-up. Since there's a newer version, used SB-900 flashes are fairly plentiful now, and well within your budget.

If you want to stick with a lens, the 85mm f1.8G will give you a little more reach, and provide a very useful portrait/modeling lens.

[Manfred M]

I would have to agree with Lex. A flash might be a good investment. The other direction you could consider is going for a longer lens, and with your budget, something like the 55-200mm or 55-300mm might be a consideration, especially if you are looking for better closeups of people.

You really won't notice a lot of difference in image quality or sharpness with a different camera body, Higher end cameras are easier to shoot as you can access the controls directly, rather than having to acces functionality through menu items. As Lex has already mentioned, Commander Mode for controlling off-camera flash is something you get as you step up, but going to the 5000 or 7000 series bodies is going to cost you a lot more than you have a budget for.

When it comes to lenses, faster glass is where I ended up going (better low light performance and shallower depth of field), but any of the f/2.8 lenses, even third party ones are going to be well outside of your budget range. Just be careful when looking at lenses, the D3100 does not have a built-in focus motor, so any lens you buy will have to have a built in one, unless you are planning to focus manually; not a practice I would recommend with the D3100.

For flash, have a look at the Speedlight SB-700. It should be in your price range.

[Shadowman]

Some new photographers gravitate towards a telephoto zoom (55-200mm) after tiring of the kit lens. Could come in handy with the political campaign work.

[rpcrowe]

Although I shoot Canon gear, not Nikon; cameras are cameras and lenses are lenses. I can very well recommend general ideas for any brand.

IMO for shooting "small modeling jobs and political campaigns", there are two tools (with some accessories) that I would definitely consider as valuable and even necessary:

First is a decent quality mid-range zoom of around 17mm or 18mm, to 50mm or 55mm with a constant f/2.8 aperture. Nikon, Tamron and Sigma all have these lenses (prices vary). Including Image Stabilization (Canon terminology) would be nice but, certainly is not required. In fact, the Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 lens without vibration control (Tamron calls it VC) is said to produce better results than the model incorporating VC. The most important parameter would be the constant f/2.8 aperture. IMO, this is pretty well necessary for creative flash work!

Note: I have never studied the various Nikon cameras to learn which can be used with which lenses. To me it is a PITA to have to worry about that! Nikon took the cheap option when it came to some of their entry level cameras. Any Canon crop DSLR camera can use any Canon mount autofocus lens (with the possible exception of some older Sigma Canon mount lenses)...

I would NOT opt for an extended range zoom lens with a variable aperture for this type of work...

Second is a hotshoe flash. Creative use of flash (both indoors and out) will certainly help to produce good imagery. I personally do not think that the type of photography you plan can be effectively accomplished using available light only. I personally prefer to use OEM Canon flash units to third party units and I am sure that I would prefer OEM flash I were shooting with Nikon gear. I also would ensure that my flash was equipped with decent through the lens exposure control. Sure, you can work with manually controlled flash but the TTL is far more efficient for your planned types of photography.

I would add a Stroboframe Camera Flip Bracket these have become available on Amazon.com for a really reasonable price ( http://www.amazon.com/Stroboframe-Ca.../dp/B00009UTLU )

Along with the Stroboframe Bracket, I would add a diffuser reflector. This can be fabricated from foamcore ( http://super.nova.org/DPR/DIY01/ ) or purchased. I prefer the Joe Demb Flash Diffuser professional ( www.dembflashproducts.com ).

Finally, I would definitely recommend an off-camera flash cord. This can either be a Nikon OEM cord or a third party cord. I am using a Calumet Off Camera Cord for my Canon Gear...

Learn how to use this gear and you will be well on your way to mastering the technical aspects of the type of photography you intend to do...

Unfortunately the gear that I suggested is going to cost a bit over your budget. However, a combination of a used Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 lens and a Yongnuo 565ex or 568ex (I would prefer the 568 because of High Speed Sync Capability) should be within your price range.

[Mike Buckley]

Commander Mode for controlling off-camera flash is something you get as you step up, but going to the 5000 or 7000 series bodies is going to cost you a lot more than you have a budget for.

The Nikon 5000 series camera bodies themselves have no Commander mode. The SU-800 Commander can be attached to the hot shoe but doing so would still require purchasing a separate speedlight.

[Manfred M]

The Nikon 5000 series camera bodies themselves have no Commander mode. The SU-800 Commander can be attached to the hot shoe.

Sorry, I knew that but was not clear about it. The D90, D7000 and D7100 have Commander Mode. The full-frame D600 / D610, D700 and D800 do as well, but the D3 and D4 cameras do not (as they have no built-in flash).

[Mike Buckley]

This thread might provide a solution for me, so I would like to make sure that I correctly understand the information. I use my wife's Nikon D5100, which has no Commander mode, in my makeshift studio because of its articulating LCD. I also own a Nikon SB-600 which can not be powered remotely by the Nikon D5100. Do I understand Lex and Manfred correctly that if I purchased a Nikon SB-700 or higher series, I could power it off-camera using the camera's built-in flash and that I could control its output by configuring the flash itself?

[PhotomanJohn]

Mike,

I may not understand your question exactly but here is my input. I don't use a SB-600 but I understand they can operate as a remote under the CLS system but do not have a slave function where it can trigger from an external flash. The SB-700 can operate as a commander or a remote for CLS as well as a dumb slave to another flash. So with a D5100, SB-600 and SB-700 you could attach the SB-700 to your camera (directly in hot-shoe or with an extension cord) and use it as a commander to control the SB-600 placed remotely. There isn't a way to use all three flashes (camera, SB-600 and SB-700) in that set up.

Did that answer your question?

John

[Mike Buckley]

Thank you, John. That answers my question so perfectly that it reveals that I didn't really know what to ask.

[Nitrouspizza]

Thank you so much guys! I think I'm gonna invest in some good light as you suggested. I think I still have so much to pull out of my kit lens and camera before stepping up. Also rpcrowe mentioned a flash cord. Why not a wireless flash system? I'm very new to off-camera lighting

[PhotomanJohn]

Also rpcrowe mentioned a flash cord. Why not a wireless flash system? I'm very new to off-camera lighting

A cord will allow a TTL capable flash to function as if it was on the camera and would be used with the flash bracket he mentioned. Most wireless triggers do not couple TTL information so the flashes must be operated in manual mode. TTL capable wireless triggers have been relatively expensive but now there are beginning to be some good options in the $80 per pair range.

John

[Nitrouspizza]

A cord will allow a TTL capable flash to function as if it was on the camera and would be used with the flash bracket he mentioned. Most wireless triggers do not couple TTL information so the flashes must be operated in manual mode. TTL capable wireless triggers have been relatively expensive but now there are beginning to be some good options in the $80 per pair range.

John

Well, let me put it more specifically. I want a two flash system to work with my camera to create interesting lighting but I want to do things i.e. put my two flashes behind my subject or put flashes underne
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kenwbrown/462135050/

[RustBeltRaw]

Well, let me put it more specifically. I want a two flash system to work with my camera to create interesting lighting but I want to do things i.e. put my two flashes behind my subject or put flashes underne
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kenwbrown/462135050/

That photo is not something you'll be able to do with hot-shoe flashes. Not one or two, anyway. Automotive photography studios are insane. Think 20ft-high cyc walls and 40ft softboxes on adjustable overhead pulley systems.

If you want to to multi-flash setups, then swapping your camera body for one with a Commander mode is not a bad idea. I got my off-camera lighting start with the wireless functions built into my 60D, and they're really quite good. A remote cord will be good for run-and-gun work, giving you one hand for the flash and one for the camera, with full TTL capability. But that really only works for one flash. Off-camera work takes a triggering system, which can get expensive.

In-camera commanders are the least expensive way to get very capable off-camera wireless triggering. Nikon's CLS system is excellent, so that may be the best way to go. The D90, at about $500 used, is the least expensive of Manfred's options. You could then sell your D3100 for about $250-300, and use that money to pick up an appropriate flash.

[Manfred M]

Well, let me put it more specifically. I want a two flash system to work with my camera to create interesting lighting but I want to do things i.e. put my two flashes behind my subject or put flashes underne
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kenwbrown/462135050/

As Lex has already stated, this is a studio shot done with a lot of studio lights and huge light modifiers. This is not something that you can do with a couple of Speedlights.

You can save yourself a lot of money by starting off with a single off-camera flash and using a simple (even home-made) white reflector for your fill light (I use an old piece of CoreTex plastic). Going to a two-flash setup is far more complex than using a single light; I use a flash meter when setting up multiple flash setups to get my lighting ratios the way I want them.

Learn how to light with a single flash before you add a second light. You will save yourself a lot of grief that way...

[rpcrowe]

Here's am answer to the question of why I will use a wired flash off-camera on the Stroboframe Camera Flip Bracket when my 7D has wireless capability?

I have used the 7D/Stroboframe combination with 550EX, 430EX and 600X-RT flashes and the wireless triggering seems to work just fine indoors. However outdoors, the wireless triggering can be problematic. The efficiency of the wireless triggering depends on the brightness and angle of the sun and the flash to subject distance. Since, I will often shoot both indoors and outside during a single shoot, my M.O. has been to connect the flash with the camera via a remote trigger cord...

Doubtless some radio triggering systems would get around that problem but, the remote cord is a sure and relatively inexpensive (compared with a good radio system) way to trigger my flash. Working with the remote cord, I have all of the controls that I would have if the flash were connected directly to the camera...

BTW: If you are using a flash with master capability, such as the 550ex, 580 EX (series) and 600EX-RT, at the end of your sync cord, you can trigger ant number of slaves, just as you could if the flash were connected directly to your camera's hotshoe

I once used a Canon Off Camera Cord but, one of my rescue puppies chewed that cord. I replaced it with a Calumet Cord http://www.calumetphoto.com/product/...dlites/CF0027/ because I have a Calumet store a few minutes from my house and I needed the cord immediately. The Calumet cord works every bit as well as did the Canon OEM cord and was quite a bit less expensive

[inkista]

That photo is not something you'll be able to do with hot-shoe flashes. ...

Uh. Lex, Manfred: you most certainly can do that shot with only two speedlights. That's exactly how it was made: two SB-24s and cheap flea-bay remotes. Here are the set-up shots:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7211625@N06/463133143/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7211625@N06/463138722/

Might wanna read through the stuff under the picture next time. That image was the subject of this Strobist article.

[Mike Buckley]

you most certainly can do that shot with only two speedlights. That's exactly how it was made: two SB-24s and cheap flea-bay remotes.

It seems to me that if the shot requires two speedlights and two remotes, then it's reasonable to say that it can't be made with only two speedlights. I realize that's not your point but I couldn't resist.

[RustBeltRaw]

you most certainly can do that shot with only two speedlights. That's exactly how it was made: two SB-24s and cheap flea-bay remotes.

It seems to me that if the shot requires two speedlights and two remotes, then it's reasonable to say that it can't be made with only two speedlights. I realize that's not your point but I couldn't resist.

Thanks for trying to save me, Mike, but I stand corrected and amazed. I mistook the exterior highlights for softbox reflections. That's an incredible shot.