Unsharp mask vs. High Pass sharpening

[Kris V]

What are the criteria for each? What is the best method?
When do you use USM and when do you use HPS?
I'm not sure if my reasoning works but I use USM for global overall sharpening of the whole image, and High Pass with a layer mask when I only want to sharpen a part of the image.
Does that make sense, or do I have it wrong? If so, can someone set me straight?

[Colin Southern]

I never use high-pass sharpening, for what it's worth.

If I only want to sharpen part of an image then I do it any one of a number of ways ...

- Select the part I want to sharpen

- Duplicate the layer - sharpen globally - erase what's not to be sharpened

- Use the history brush

- Create a mask

[Mike Buckley]

My understanding, though I could be wrong, is that the primary advantage of high pass sharpening is that it has less of a tendency to create halos. I know for a fact that judicious use of the unsharp mask eliminates them.

The only time I use high pass sharpening is when I want to increase the texture. Even then I use it at about 35% opacity.

[Kris V]

My understanding, though I could be wrong, is that the primary advantage of high pass sharpening is that it has less of a tendency to create halos. I know for a fact that judicious use of the unsharp mask eliminates them.

The only time I use high pass sharpening is when I want to increase the texture. Even then I use it at about 35% opacity.

When I use HPS, it's usually between 40 and 50% opacity. Frankly, I find it more user friendly than USM.
I'm just wondering what the general consensus is. Most PhotoShop tutorials mention USM, and very few even touch on HPS.
I was pointd in that direction by a colleague at work a few weeks before I retired. I was sold.

[Kris V]

I never use high-pass sharpening, for what it's worth.

If I only want to sharpen part of an image then I do it any one of a number of ways ...

- Select the part I want to sharpen

- Duplicate the layer - sharpen globally - erase what's not to be sharpened

- Use the history brush

- Create a mask

Thanks for the info, Colin. Sounds probably more complicated than it really is.

[Mike Buckley]

I don't know about using the history brush, but all of the other methods Colin explained will work whether using USM or HPS.

I was sold.

There are lots of ways to accomplish the same basic look. If you're sold on using HPS and it continues to work for you, why would you be interested in making a change?

[Colin Southern]

Thanks for the info, Colin. Sounds probably more complicated than it really is.

Complicated? - Nah - that's simple (there's 4 separate ways in those 4 lines)

In Photoshop

Method 1: Press L - Draw your selection - Filter -> Sharpen -> Unsharp Mask

Method 2: Ctrl+J - Filter -> Sharpen -> Unsharp Mark. Press E for eraser

Method 3: Filter -> Sharpen -> Unsharp. Press Y. Windows -> History -> Click next to previous state. Paint over undesired regions.

Method 4: Press Q. Paint over what you want. Press Q. Filter -> Sharpen -> Unsharp. (you MAY need a Shift+Ctrl+I) after 2nd "Q".

Too easy

There are other variation on this too.

[Colin Southern]

I don't know about using the history brush, but all of the other methods Colin explained will work whether using USM or HPS.

It'll work fine for that too.

There are lots of ways to accomplish the same basic look. If you're sold on using HPS and it continues to work for you, why would you be interested in making a change?

Because a different way may produce an even better result?

[Colin Southern]

I just had a play with high-pass sharpening. Personally, I wouldn't touch it with a barge pole - not enough control for me.

[Mike Buckley]

Because a different way may produce an even better result?

True. However, she explained that she was "sold" on using HPS, which I infer that she would be wise to spend time developing other post-processing capabilities instead of learning another way to sharpen her images.

[Colin Southern]

True. However, she explained that she was "sold" on using HPS, which I infer that she would be wise to spend time developing other post-processing capabilities instead of learning another way to sharpen her images.

Her call, but sharpening is probably the biggest failing that I see here, and it seems to me that HPS has some significant limitations.

[Kris V]

I don't know about using the history brush, but all of the other methods Colin explained will work whether using USM or HPS.



There are lots of ways to accomplish the same basic look. If you're sold on using HPS and it continues to work for you, why would you be interested in making a change?

Just wanted to know if one method was giving better results than the other. HPS looked like it was just an easier way of doing partial sharpening. I just use a layer mask on the HPS layer.
I'm struggling with the concept of the history brush. Never figured out in what situation it needs to be used, or exactly how it works. That's one of the Photoshop things that really have me for a loop.
That, and vanishing point.....

[IzzieK]

History brush tutorial, Kris...

http://lonestardigital.com/history_brush.htm

Now I am sure some of your will be busy using this to your images because I did..

Just wanted to know if one method was giving better results than the other. HPS looked like it was just an easier way of doing partial sharpening. I just use a layer mask on the HPS layer.
I'm struggling with the concept of the history brush. Never figured out in what situation it needs to be used, or exactly how it works. That's one of the Photoshop things that really have me for a loop.
That, and vanishing point.....

[PhotomanJohn]

IzzieK - Thanks for the link and the refresher on the history brush. I had forgotten about it and should be using it in some situations.

John

[Kris V]

Thanks for the link, Isabel. Eventually I will get it.

[RustBeltRaw]

The main thing I don't like about HPS is the way it's implemented in Photoshop. Compared to USM, it's not as easy to quickly tweak settings and see the results. But I still use it. Mainly for architectural work, vehicles, etc. Inanimate objects only, and rare protraits where I want a crunchy look. It can make people look a little odd to my eyes, even with transparency. USM is my go-to, since most of my shots include people, but I get a lot of mileage from Bicubic Sharper downsizing, too.

It's not the clearest example since I blended sharpening methods, but this portrait used Tone Mapping, HPS, and Bicubic Sharper at various opacities. Tone Mapping for mood, deep shadows, and hard dark areas, HPS for an exaggerated, textured look, and Bicubic Sharper for web resizing. Unfortunately, all that can't make up for off-center softness

[IzzieK]

Thanks for the link, Isabel. Eventually I will get it.

Here's a good one on vanishing points and where you can use it...

http://psd.tutsplus.com/tutorial/pho...search_index=6

[Kris V]

Here's a good one on vanishing points and where you can use it...

http://psd.tutsplus.com/tutorial/pho...search_index=6

Thanks Isabel - bookmarked for further reference.