what gives sharpness to a photo

[Catalina]

Dear all:

I want to know what gives the perfect sharpness to a photo.

Besides, the autofocus, what else can help to give sharpness to a a photo?

When working without a tripod, how should you stand, lean, sit, even lay down on a floor and get perfect sharpness in a picture?

Is the way to hold the camera important?

Can I work with my left hand? Because my left hand has a slight tremor.

Cordially

Catalina

[Inkanyezi]

"Perfect sharpness" is an undefined entity, as it comprises a subjective evaluation, or more correct, more than one subjective evaluation.

From a technical standpoint, it is evident that a steady camera, and a steady subject, with correct focusing of the lens, would render optimal sharpness under the circumstances when the photo is taken. Then there are other factors, as contrast, lighting, the angle of lighting, and whether the subject is separated from the background - stands out - as well as spatial density of subject matter versus resolution of optical system as well as the sensor.

There are so many variables, that there is not one simple answer.

Your slight tremor might be less relevant with a good stabilising system in the camera; the best ones I have seen so far are in the Olympus OM-D and Pentax K-5, as they can compensate not only for angular shifts of the optical axis, but also for roll around it.

But as sharpness is not dependent only on how steady you hold the camera, and how well it focuses or how well you focus it, the answer is a lot more complicated. Sharpness is subjective. It is how we perceive "sharp". We can create conditions for sharpness by using a tripod, by focusing with care, and by choosing subject, background and lighting conditions to enhance perception of sharpness. Light from the side may render a "sharper" image than flat front lighting, due to several aspects of light and shadow. Relatively large details may appear sharper than details that are too tiny to be resolved well in the final image. Good contrast between different subject features enhance sharpness, while poorer contrast may look less sharp. Bold features will stand out better than more subtle ones.

So I am afraid I don't have a simple answer, and the one I have is not only rather long and complicated, but also very fuzzy - just as the concept of sharpness.

[Stagecoach]

Hello Catalina,

If we assume that you have focussed correctly the next most important thing is that the camera must be steady. If in a standing position push your elbows against your side to give support and have your right foot further forward.

With your left hand support the lens across your palm with your thumb and fingers wrapped around the lens. The underside of the camera will be supported then also on your palm close to your wrist.

With your right hand grip the right side of the camera so that you right index finger can easily reach the shutter button.

When taking a picture press the shutter button slowly to the half pressed position, then depress slowly again to operate the shutter when you are ready.

You will also have a better chance of getting sharp images if you use a faster shutter speed, if light allows. I would suggest for learning you start with a shutter speed of 1/125s or faster.

There are numerous articles and pictures on the web if you do a search 'Holding a DSLR'.

As for the affect of a slight left hand tremor only your results can answer this.

Grahame

[Stagecoach]

Hello again Catalina,

Until recently you had a lens that would not Auto Focus and have since acquired a new lens.

Can you answer the following questions please;

a) Have you fitted the new lens yet?
b) If you have fitted the new lens have you taken any pictures using Auto Focus that 'you' consider sharp?

Edit :

From your post above it suggests you have concerns about the 'sharpness' of your pictures.

I recommend that you undertake the following test of your camera and lens and post the result here. By undertaking this test it will confirm if your camera is focusing correctly and also give you an indication of what sharpness can be achieved.

1) Place the camera on your tripod.
2) Set the camera to 'P' mode, Single Area Focus [ ], Matrix Metering.
3) Aim the camera at a subject, (garden ornament, tree trunk, gate post etc) so that a defined contrasting edge is within the focus box you see in the centre of the viewfinder.
4) Take the picture pressing the shutter button slowly.

If this produces a good sharp image for which you are pleased with the sharpness it means that any image taken that is less sharp is due to user error or a moving subject.

Grahame

[shreds]

Thanks, guys, I gave up on my first response, as can be seen there are so many factors involved in 'sharpness'.

Lets try starting from the other end of this conundrum.

Catalina, place your camera on a tripod or other solid surface and very gently squeeze the shutter until it clicks, using a reasonably high shutter speed (say in excess of 1/500) if the light allows, or do the same with a flash but at the sync speed of the flash…probably 1/60 or 1/125. Do you consider these 'sharp'?

Post them here and we will try and give you some further feedback, before taking up hand held positions etc.

[Polar01]

Catalina try this link, he has three short videos on sharpness for the point of view of holding the camera, they are from his sharpness series.
http://www.moosepeterson.com/blog/

Cheers: Allan

[benm]

Here is one tip that works for me: take a deep breath just before you are ready to squeeze the shutter button; then slowly let out some of the air, pause, take the photo.

[AB26]

Catalina,

Maybe Grahame left out one little detail:
If you are shooting RAW you will need to sharpen in Post. Your image might not be tack sharp SOOC.

[rpcrowe]

1. Image quality of the lens at the f/stop you are shooting. Often less expensive lenses will not produce the optimum sharpness wide open but will significantly increase image sharpness when stopped down 2-stops or so from maximum.

2. Steady hold for camera. Optimally a hefty tripod will provide the most steady hold. It is amazing the quality that a mid or lower priced lens (such as one of the many kit lenses) can produce when shot at 2-stops below maximum aperture and mounted on a tripod. Alternately a decently fast shutter speed combined with a secure hand-hold will provide a steady support. There are many instructional tutorials on how to hold a camera steady (most camera user manuals show examples). I strongly believe that using a camera with an eye level viewfinder will provide a better and more secure hand-hold than shooting with a LCD as the viewfinder. That is because I have my viewfinder camera snugly pressed against my face with my elbows resting against my ample belly. I have seen many people hand holding their cameras using the LCD and it doesn't seem that they have a secure hold with their cameras floating out 12-inches in front of their face.

3. Using a low quality filter will decrease sharpness.

4. Shooting at a very high ISO will decrease apparent sharpness because of noise.

5. Correct focusing procedures will impact sharpness to a great degree. I will rely on my Canon 7D auto-focus capability for the majority of my shots. I skipped an entire generation of Canon cameras (EOS auto-focus film cameras) because, in my vanity, I was sure that I could do a better job manually focusing my images than any camera could do automatically. I was wrong! Using a mid range aperture (f/8 or f/11) I have had absolutely no problems with landscape focus and don't have to rely on wondering about hyperfocal distances, etc. BTW: the manual focus SLR films cameras such as the Canon A-1 SLR, which was my standard body, had a far better manual focusing capability than my 7D DSLR. However, the 7D auto focus runs rings around the manual focusing A-1.

6. One of the most critical factors impacting sharpness of your final product is the sharpening added during post processing. ALL DSLR images benefit from sharpening, especially those shot in RAW. Post processing sharpening is a subject within itself and is covered quite well in the CiC Tutorials found above.

Another factor that impacts apparent sharpness in landscape is atmospheric haze-smog and angle of the sun. In my area, there will be a decided difference in sharpness of the landscape views due to the above factors. Sometimes, a top quality (top quality = quite expensive) CPL filter can increase the contrast and apparent sharpness of a landscape by minimizing the reflections off water and dust particulates in the atmosphere.

Using a lens hood will often increase the apparent sharpness of an image.

Finally, contrast of your subject may be a decided factor in the apparent sharpness. A more contrasty scene will usually appear sharper than a less contrasty scene.

[Stagecoach]

Hello Catalina,

I have considered your original post in this thread again since my two previous replies in post No 3 & No 4 and have read all of the replies other members have made to it.

Whilst a number of the replies contain information that does affect apparent sharpness of an image I would suggest that there is also lot of superfluous information that is not specific to your 'question' which is "how to achieve sharpness in relation to holding your camera".

You have previously requested that we keep things simple, logical and deal with matters step by step and I believe there are two basic fundamental areas that we must address first with your learning of taking pictures with the D40, these are;

1) The basic method to be able to take a picture that is exposed correctly.
2) The basic method to be able to take a picture that is sharp where you want it to be sharp.

Item 1) we have dealt with in a previous thread where you have been advised of the settings and an exercise to practice exposure compensation, we await the results to be posted.

Item 2) I will expand below on the methods for achieving the best sharpness of an image so that it is sharp where you want it to be with specific reference to your D40 camera;

HOLDING THE CAMERA

Methods of holding the camera have been covered already and this is something you can practice and also read the numerous articles available on the web for further advice. It all comes down to keeping the camera steady.

FOCUS MODES

Your camera has four (4) modes of focusing, AF-A, AF-S, AF-C and 'Manual'. These are explained on page 23 of the manual and you should be aware of and understand the reason for the setting you are using. AF-A is the default setting for the camera.

(for information images you have posted to date indicate you have used AF-A, AF-S and Manual modes.)

AUTO FOCUS AREA MODES ON YOUR D40

You should be aware that your D40 has three (3) 'Auto Focus Area Modes' and these are explained on page 24 of the manual. These modes are 'Closest Subject', 'Dynamic Area' and 'Single Area'.

'Closest Subject' is the default setting for the camera but unfortunately this mode will always Auto Focus the camera on the nearest object in the scene which may not be what you want.

(for information some pictures you have posted show that the AF-Closest Subject and AF-Dynamic Area modes have been used although you have advised us the Auto Focus function did not work on you camera/lens and have since purchased a new lens?)

FOCUS INDICATOR

Your D40 has a 'Focus Indicator' which is a small green circle to the bottom left of the viewfinder display that the camera will light up when it considers the subject enclosed within the viewfinder 'focus box' is in focus (sharp).

------------------------

Previously you have asked what settings you should use your camera on and I am going to suggest the following as the 'best' to assist you in achieving a picture that is sharp where you want it to be and also exposed well. Once you can achieve these two basic functions of taking pictures we can then move on to explore the camera further;

a) Undertake a Two Button Reset, (instruction previously given).
b) Set the camera to 'P' (programmed auto) mode.
c) Set the camera to 'Matrix Metering'
d) Set 'Focus Mode' to AF-S
e) Set 'Focus Area Mode to Single Area
f) Set 'ISO' to 400

Take some pictures of anything keeping the subject that you want sharpest within the viewfinder 'focus box' and post the results, whatever you think of them. In addition, if you are still concerned about the sharpness of the pictures undertake the test as I have explained in post No 4.

Here is an example of a picture I have just taken using the exact same camera settings I have advised above. The lighting conditions were not the best being very bright sun but the result is exposed well and the plant, the subject, is sharp. You should be able to achieve similar results with your camera, if not there is something fundamentally wrong which we need to sort.



Note the image is the Jpeg straight out of camera with no post processing work undertaken.

Grahame

[Stagecoach]

Catalina,

Maybe Grahame left out one little detail:
If you are shooting RAW you will need to sharpen in Post. Your image might not be tack sharp SOOC.

Hi Andre,

I believe that at present the objective for Catalina is to be able to point the camera at a subject and produce a well exposed (as well exposed as we would accept P mode to produce in the conditions knowing it's limitations due to our knowledge) picture that is sharp (again within the known limitations due to our knowledge) where she wants it to be sharp).

Once this can be achieved confidently and repeatedly we can then move on to such areas as DoF, ISO, speeds, lighting, PP etc.

To be honest I'm struggling a bit here because there are so many unknowns, there's still the question of AF and is it working with the new lens?, we are not getting examples to be able to diagnose. A typical one being is that if you have a D40 camera set to AF on the Closest Subject at a wide aperture (often chosen in P mode) you could consider that a fuzzy person standing 6ft behind the item the camera focused on was a camera or holding technique fault.

Grahame

[Inkanyezi]

Of course I had missed all previous posts.

There is one thing that has changed a lot since we used cameras that had to be focused manually. We no longer need to hold the left hand around the lens. Of course many do so because it is convenient for zooming, but if you have a slight tremor, it might be contraproductive to hold your hand in that position.

Instead, hold the left side of the camera body, and support your left hand against your cheek if you look with your left eye or against cheek and nose if using right eye. This will possibly stop any shake of your hand or at least subdue it. By supporting your hands against your face, you might hold the camera more steady. You might figure out a position for doing a similar thing in portrait orientation.

[ajohnw]

I think it's best to check a lens for sharpness or focus with flash if possible. Set the camera to manual, the aperture of the lens 2 stops under it's maximum, speed to maximum flash sync speed and ISO to minimum. Photograph some thing from around 2 - 3m or so. I often use a chair back that has a woven fabric and also a white lace chair back cover over part of it. It's contrasts with the colour of the chair back making the auto focus's job easier. There just needs to be enough light to make sure the camera focuses positively - not much these days. The idea is to make the flash produce the bulk of the light - the exposure will be very short. I usually sit in a chair opposite and rest my elbows on my knees. a Tripod could be used as well but I would add a cable release for that or use the short self timer setting to actually take the shot. If the tripod is so so lock the mirror up as well. Then look at the shot at 100% resolution. Even a standard zoom should give a sharp image at it's max setting used like this. Thinking in terms of something like an 18-55mm on APS.

If it isn't sharp either focus or the lens could be out. Some cameras have focus adjustments in the menu's. With a test like this it's a case of trying adjustments each way and seeing what happens.

Another way involves using an angled ruler in the shot at say 30-40 degrees with a vertical target to focus on in the middle. The targets are usually black and white. The central AF point is used on that and the rule graduations used to see where the camera actually focused. People knock things up like this from eg Cornflake packets, tape blue tac or whatever. The target needs a piece of white card and a dense black cross made with indelible pen or what ever to give the camera something to focus on. A tripod is best this time, no flash and decent light levels. There are some wonderfully complicated designs for these things about on the web. Try positioning the AF point or points in different position to get consistent results then adjust as needed. This is one example of a target which also attempts to look at resolution but targets can easily be made larger to test telephoto's at a distance for instance if things are kept simple.



It's also possible to focus for best mtf on a particular type of target - probably a touch over the top and needs better targets than can easily be produced.

Whoops - the idea of the design is that the target is part cut out and bent up into a vertical position.

John
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[Stagecoach]

John,

Whilst I would not disagree with you suggested method of testing a specific lens for sharpness I would suggest this information is superfluous to this thread at present and the questions from Catalina in post No 1.

Catalina has posted a number of images of which some have been un-sharp all over and others that have been sharp in places. For those images which have been sharp in places, unfortunately the sharp places have not been where one would want for the subject. The fact that some places are sharp (the un-sharp being caused by DoF or focus error) suggests in itself that the lens used is or can produce sharp images.

The tests I have already suggested in post 4 and 10 are perfectly adequate at this stage for us to diagnose a posted image to be able to give further comment or advice. Catalina now has a new lens and hopefully an AF that is working and this is the first thing that must be confirmed as functioning with acceptable results.

My concern is that due to the fact that Catalina's first language is not English, her technical knowledge regarding the camera and photography and terms used is limited (as fully expected for a novice) and she wants to learn step by step we do not need to scare her with info and knowledge that whilst being second nature to us can easily confuse the matter for her.

Grahame

[AB26]

Grahame:
What you are doing here is an admirable undertaking. Catalina should really appreciate the time and effort you are putting into helping her.
Maybe the rest of us should stay out of this as Catalina does not need to be confused by different opinions. No harm dropping in to see how you are doing.

Catalina:
I can only say: Really appreciate what Grahame is doing. He is leading you step by step without getting into technically confusing terminology and detail. You only have to look at Grahame’s work to realise you are in good hands.

[Stagecoach]

Andre,

Thank you very much for the kind words and I certainly do not wish for my efforts to be seen as trying to monopolise Catalina's assistance. I just have this feeling at the moment that our aim has to be getting Catalina to point a camera at any 'beginner' subject and get a decent result. It can be done in 'P' mode, I have fully examined this and information on the web also supports this for the D40. The AF, if working and set correctly should also provide acceptably sharp images.

Once we can get Catalina producing and posting pictures such as my above example, they can be diagnosed, problems if any examined or such affects as exposure, speed and DoF have had on the image explained.

If anyone considers the present route I'm taking could be different or improved I would of course be interested in hearing other ideas.

Cheers

[jcuknz]

A small point ... you may find that shooting a burst of shots may produce a sharper result in the following frames than the first one.
In shooting any test I would use the 10 second delay and leave the camera [ and tripod?] untouched during countdown and exposure ... I work this way for any shot taken using a tripod as a matter of course though normally I am only using a tripod when at home since I have stabilisation.

[ajohnw]

John,

Whilst I would not disagree with you suggested method of testing a specific lens for sharpness I would suggest this information is superfluous to this thread at present and the questions from Catalina in post No 1.

Catalina has posted a number of images of which some have been un-sharp all over and others that have been sharp in places. For those images which have been sharp in places, unfortunately the sharp places have not been where one would want for the subject. The fact that some places are sharp (the un-sharp being caused by DoF or focus error) suggests in itself that the lens used is or can produce sharp images.

The tests I have already suggested in post 4 and 10 are perfectly adequate at this stage for us to diagnose a posted image to be able to give further comment or advice. Catalina now has a new lens and hopefully an AF that is working and this is the first thing that must be confirmed as functioning with acceptable results.

My concern is that due to the fact that Catalina's first language is not English, her technical knowledge regarding the camera and photography and terms used is limited (as fully expected for a novice) and she wants to learn step by step we do not need to scare her with info and knowledge that whilst being second nature to us can easily confuse the matter for her.

Grahame

Fine Grahame but pointing the camera at something flat with contrast rules out user problems and using flash should avoid the need for a tripod. A place to start.

John
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[Stagecoach]

Fine Grahame but pointing the camera at something flat with contrast rules out user problems and using flash should avoid the need for a tripod. A place to start.

John
-

John,

I hear what you are saying but your suggestion of using flash complicates things a bit as it could be construed that you need flash to take a sharp picture and your comment "" Set the camera to manual, the aperture of the lens 2 stops under it's maximum, speed to maximum flash sync speed "" is very unlikely to be understood by Catalina.

For info the reason I'm advising basic 'P' mode at present is that it tends to open the aperture wide to maintain a reasonable speed and hence a shallower DoF which will make it easier to determine where exactly sharpest focus is within the image and if this coincides with where it was wanted. Hopefully Catalina will post some images soon for assessment.

Grahame

[Inkanyezi]

My concern is that due to the fact that Catalina's first language is not English, her technical knowledge regarding the camera and photography and terms used is limited (as fully expected for a novice) and she wants to learn step by step we do not need to scare her with info and knowledge that whilst being second nature to us can easily confuse the matter for her.

I guess I am not the only one to have a few wildcards up the sleeve.

My first language is Swedish, my second Spanish - English in the third place, before French, German, Dutch and a few others (Quechua {runa-simi}, Finnish, Bahasa Indonesia, Gaeilge {Irish}).

Adivino que el primer idioma de Catalina sea Español.
Entonces, si hay algo de clarificar, le puedo dar explicaciones en castellano. Creo que el idioma no será el gran problema realmente, pero si alguna vez puede servir de puente a mejor entendimiento, lo pudiera explicar en ese idioma también.