Lighting for tabletop studio?

[chauncey]

Scenario is that I have no lighting at all...I want some, but...I don't know what I want/need.
Google led me to this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tf-jap4VT9E good idea to invest or not?
Limited financial means.

[Shadowman]

The great thing about home studio is no one has to see your gear except you, the viewer only sees the effects on the image. There are quite a few DIY books on the subject and most accessories, including lamps can be purchased in a hardware store. I've considered purchasing a two light setup, but for now I use one shop lamp with 40W bulb and a large flashlight for either spot lighting, light painting, or backlighting source.

This bud was photographed using an off-camera flash and backlit with an LED desk lamp. This was done directly at my desk, there might have been some stray light form my monitor as well.

[Mike Buckley]

I've never used LED lights but I like his explanation that most of them can be used with a dimmer switch for increased control. I can't imagine why they wouldn't be sufficient for most tabletop photography. When taking into account storage space, they are also smaller than compact flourescent lamps. Definitely avoid using hot light (incandescent) bulbs in a lamp because they are really hot and will easily melt diffusion material.

If you have a really small shooting area such as mine (4' x 8'), the one possible concern is the example of the background light in his setup. His background light seemed fairly far away from the background material. If you don't have enough space (I don't) to allow sufficient distance, the area of bright light will be smaller. A standard lamp with a 10" or larger reflector will also be inexpensive and the reflector will seemingly create a larger bright area at the same distance as his LED lamp. At least that's my impression after having reviewed his video of the setup.

I sure do like his folded board for the DIY reflector that makes it easy to stand the board on the tabletop with no clamps. I can't believe I haven't thought of that and am going to leave my computer right now to cut my reflectors the same way.

[Manfred M]

I bit the bullet and bought some studio lights (I have two of the Einstein units that he showed at the beginning of the video), just because I want lights that are multi-purpose, rather than a setup that is very much restricted to product shots of relatively small, stationary objects.

Main advantage of the small light setups that are featured in the video are low cost and the ability to see how the lighting looks, without taking a shot. Downside is that you have very restricted shooting abilities, i.e. you need to block out all other lighting in your "studio" so as to ensure that ambient light is not affecting your image.

Advantage of proper studion lights; you can use them in most lighting conditions as they can be set to overpower the ambient lighting conditions. Exposures will be relatively short (near your camera's synch speed), and of course you can use them anywhere, even outdoors. Really the only downside is the cost.

[rpcrowe]

A pair cheap worklights, not the heavy duty hot halogen types from home supply stores, but, the old fashioned clip-on reflector light types and a couple of reflectors fabricated from white cardboard as well as light stands fabricated from paint cans with sticks (see video) are all you need for lighting.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Woods-60-...0160/204667690

Backgrounds can be white, gray or black foamboard or cardboard and or you can use fleece of varied colors.

You "CAN" use a light tent, but that is not necessary. If you opt to use a tent, I would recommend buying one rather than fabricating one out of a cardboard box. A light tent such as this one is pretty cheap and can be folded away and stored with no problem. It is supplied with a set of different colored backgrounds and has a shoot-through front. That is a piece of the same material as the tent itself with a slit through which you can poke your lens. That is quite handy for shooing very reflective items.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/24inch-60cm-...item3a8099566d

There are various other sizes available also. I have found no difference between the higher and the lower priced ents.



The nice thing about most table-top photography is that you are shooting inanimate subjects so shutter speed is not a factor.

Prophoto Life has a series of free, short, video tutorials that cover most phases of table-top photography:

http://www.prophotolife.com/video-library/

Episode 1, DIY Product Lighting is a good place to start....

I don't use this type of lighting since I have studio strobes with modeling lights. I have always done my product photography in a dark room (a garage is good also) so I don't have to worry about ambient light impacting my image. Somehow also, I seem to be able to concentrate on my setup and its lighting better when that is the only light in the room lit...

Not counting your camera and tripod (pretty necessary for this type of work) I would think that you could be set up for table top photography for less than $25-$50 U.S. Dollars. The higher end would be if you want a light tent.

[chauncey]

Thanks guys, Richard...I will watch that series.

[Shadowman]

This is an $80.00 setup available through Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002FDL71G/...SIN=B002FDL71G

I was discussing such a setup with our corporate photographer and he suggested we go to a hardware store and get one of their daylight rated lamp and bulbs. The light tent in kit in the link can be purchased for about $30.00, so the remaining cost is the lamps, extra backdrops, and packaging.

[DanK]

I'll post below what I use most of the time, in various combinations. The bulbs are standard 50W and 75W halogen floods. I don't use LEDs because most are not color-balanced, and this is cheap. I use either Manfrotto diffuser sheets or parchment paper for diffusers. I more often use a silver umbrella than the one shown. I don't use dimmers, although I should; instead, I just move the lights closer and farther away. I like this setup better than flash because I can see what the lighting will look like and keep modifying things until I have it right.

The fixtures themselves are cheap "hair lights"--boom lights for illuminating the top of peoples' heads in studio shots. You can buy them (at least in the US) for under $100, although you have to check: if you want to use an umbrella, not all of the fixtures have a socket for one. I'll also post what I think was the shot I was taking when I stopped to photograph the aparatus. The trumpet, toner, and stat manual are optional --they were there because I was using them to hold up a vase before switching to the Plamp.

[Shadowman]

I'll post below what I use most of the time, in various combinations. The bulbs are standard 50W and 75W halogen floods. I don't use LEDs because most are not color-balanced, and this is cheap. I use either Manfrotto diffuser sheets or parchment paper for diffusers. I more often use a silver umbrella than the one shown. I don't use dimmers, although I should; instead, I just move the lights closer and farther away. I like this setup better than flash because I can see what the lighting will look like and keep modifying things until I have it right.

The fixtures themselves are cheap "hair lights"--boom lights for illuminating the top of peoples' heads in studio shots. You can buy them (at least in the US) for under $100, although you have to check: if you want to use an umbrella, not all of the fixtures have a socket for one. I'll also post what I think was the shot I was taking when I stopped to photograph the aparatus. The trumpet, toner, and stat manual are optional --they were there because I was using them to hold up a vase before switching to the Plamp.

Nice setup and image.

[DanK]

Thanks

[Loose Canon]

Wm I’d say yes on this if you are good with continuous. At some point I’m going to acquire two or three of these myself.

Not something I could use for everything, but if I want continuous this is what I would want. These are great for shooting jewelry and shiny stuff!

Easy on the budget and should last a long time being LED. And a huge upside is that they don’t get hot. I think you would enjoy these.

Of course I’m sure you are aware of their limitations (he may have even mentioned them on the video) but I’ll mention a couple in case someone else is considering these.

Not very powerful and so you will need long exposures mainly. And you have to shoot in a room that can go to total dark because the room’s ambient will affect the shot with long exposures. You can’t kill the ambient with a fast shutter.

I’d get these and hold off on the light tent unless you are sure you will need one. Light tents have their uses but I’d take that money and invest in other items. Like diffusion material, foamboard (black & white), background material, gray card for referencing, incidentals.

I wouldn’t worry about balancing unless you are shooting for something/someone that absolutely have to have dead-on color matching. To begin with, if you need that kind of accuracy you are not going to be using these or halogens anyway. Just reference a gray card and you’ll be good to go! But if I were going to get more than one of these I'd get them all at the same time and see if you could get them from the same batch so at least they might have a better chance to match each other.

Dan showed a nice set up. And you can see from his sample image what he can do with it. But I’d knock one of those hot lights down in a heartbeat and put a big whoppin’ scorch mark in the carpet! Burning my hands handling them would be the least of my worries!

[DanK]

To begin with, if you need that kind of accuracy you are not going to be using these or halogens anyway. Just reference a gray card and you’ll be good to go!

ACtually, I think halogens are fine in terms of color once you adjust white balance, but I may be wrong.

But I’d knock one of those hot lights down in a heartbeat and put a big whoppin’ scorch mark in the carpet!

Well, I'm a klutz and the space is small, so I bang into them all the time. 75W doesn't get dangerously hot. However, it is also not super bright, and you need long exposures. The biggest problem with that is having a wood floor, which vibrates. I used to do them on our granite kitchen counter for that reason. It's like the daguerreotype days, but in reverse: the photographer has to stand stock still.

[IzzieK]

I have a continuous lighting set (3) that came before Christmas. And I have a small space for my studio set up. Before that, I have 3 builder's lamps. Then the only thing to know is where the light is coming from when I do my shot. Manfred and others supplied me with those knowledge so far and I am still learning...Life is a continuous learning experience, sometimes I can be successful, sometimes I suck at it. But I persevere...

[Loose Canon]

“Endeavor to Persevere”!

Why haven’t we seen anything from your studio Izzie?

[IzzieK]

“Endeavor to Persevere”!

Why haven’t we seen anything from your studio Izzie?

I am still studying, that is why...I did a pseudo product shot this afternoon but I am not happy with it yet. Maybe tomorrow I will be...this week might be a good week to produce something (or not...) Seeing your work and that of others here, I want to be able to come close...honest!

[Mike Buckley]

You "CAN" use a light tent, but that is not necessary.

Never say never. Some shots cannot be made effectively without using a light tent.

[Loose Canon]

I am still studying, that is why...I did a pseudo product shot this afternoon but I am not happy with it yet. Maybe tomorrow I will be...this week might be a good week to produce something (or not...) Seeing your work and that of others here, I want to be able to come close...honest!

Awesome! I'll just have to wait on pins and needles then!

Go get 'em kiddo!

I'll be looking forward!