Learning Landscapes - Sunlit Trees

[Brownbear]

Hi Mike,

I deleted the files with the clipping in the shadows because I'm trying to avoid noise because of the need to lighten shadows. I still have to check the NX-D programs but will do. Thank you.

Here is the the screen shot of the unprocessed raw file, not clipped in the shadows but you can see from the histogram that if I lessened the exposure that the trees on the bottom were underexposed, jet black in the images I deleted even though the trees are not black. The histogram is different in that it seems to be lacking midtones in the middle?



Here is the NEF file if that is any help

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gh3kxb1t1nfq8qs/103.NEF


As an example of the types of images I have trouble figuring out the exposure on... The unprocessed raw screen shots

In this one I can see that the dynamic range is high because of the sun, and I suppose that at times it is okay to let the islands/mountains be just a silhouette.




But in this one, not so much as the overall scene is lighter as with the trees but the islands in the water are still clipped a little




So perhaps a better approach for me to take is to use my histogram to adjust my settings to not clip the the highlights and let the shadows be clipped? (when the sky is of interest)

I'm wondering why the shape of the histogram for the tree images is so different from the others?

Thank you.

[Mike Buckley]

The reason the shape of the histogram pertaining to the telephoto image of the trees is so different than the other two images is that the scene is completely different. If you take a picture of a white wall and then take a picture of a black wall, the two histograms are going to be completely different. The tree image isn't that different, but you get my point.

Hi Mike,
Here is the the screen shot of the unprocessed raw file, not clipped in the shadows but you can see from the histogram that if I lessened the exposure that the trees on the bottom were underexposed, jet black

Actually, that's not true. This is another indication that you don't understand metering and using your histogram in the camera to determine how to adjust the exposure.

I opened your NEF in Nikon Capture NX2 and did nothing other than reduce the exposure 1 EV. You could have done the same using your camera's Exposure Compensation button before taking another shot. Because you're inexperienced at this, you probably should reduce one increment with each capture and evaluate the histogram afterward rather than reducing 1 EV all at once. If you had reduced the exposure 1 EV as I did, you would have ended up with -1.7 EV compensation, as the shot that you made was captured at -0.7.

The dynamic range of the scene is far narrower than the sensor is capable of recording. Using the exposure adjustment that I applied, the brightest tone is a luminosity value of about 240 and the darkest tone is a value of about 17. The image and histogram of the JPEG are shown below.

(Ignore that the image may not be as sharp as desirable. I intentionally did not sharpen after downsizing for display here, as I wanted to display the image and its histogram using all of your camera settings except the reduction in exposure that I applied.)

[Mike Buckley]

I just thought of something, Christina: You mentioned that the trees went from green to black when you reduced the exposure. Did you come to that conclusion by reviewing the image in the camera's LCD or by reviewing the histogram?

[Brownbear]

Hi Mike,

Thank you as always.

1. The tree image is different to me in that the midtones are less pronounced and that doesn't make sense to me because I see the trees as middle values as opposed to the blacks and whites. And I do know that when I was photographing the scene I did have trouble with not clipping the shadows with some of the exposures I tried.

2. In this image I see that there is room on the shadow end to lessen exposure... I don't know why my histogram in Lightroom shows everything at the far right, and I also had the blinkies in some of the exposures I tried.

I will read up on exposure compensation, and try this scene again the first chance I have, perhaps a few times for the practice.

When in Aperture priority, set at an ISO of 100... If I see the blinkies I dial in negative exposure compensation, which increases the shutter speed to decrease the exposure. And if it is underexposed I dial in positive exposure compensation which decreases the shutter speed to increase the exposure of the image.

When in Manual mode, set at an ISO of 100.... If I see that the histogram is on the left side (tending to be underexposed in the shadows) and I wish to push the exposure to the right I dial in positive exposure compensation which lightens the image even though it doesn't effect the shutter speed or aperture.

What am I missing?

Thank you.

[Brownbear]

I can't remember.

I always look at my image in the LCD to see what the exposure looks like and I also always check the histogram for clipping. At least until I see that I am managing the exposure. I will check both and be more observant the next time around.

I just thought of something, Christina: You mentioned that the trees went from green to black when you reduced the exposure. Did you come to that conclusion by reviewing the image in the camera's LCD or by reviewing the histogram?

[Mike Buckley]

1. The tree image is different to me in that the midtones are less pronounced and that doesn't make sense to me because I see the trees as middle values as opposed to the blacks and whites.

The histogram is telling you that most of the trees are closer to the blacks. Always believe the histogram. Don't doubt it.

And I do know that when I was photographing the scene I did have trouble with not clipping the shadows with some of the exposures I tried.

There are five possibilities that could explain that:

• You weren't using a tripod and you were using auto focus. When you focused to take the next image, your focus point landed on a significantly darker or lighter spot in the scene and affected the metering.
• You weren't using a tripod. When you composed your next shot, the composition was different enough that it affected the metering.
• The light changed before you metered the next shot.
• You accidentally reduced the exposure too much.
• Any combination of the above

2. In this image I see that there is room on the shadow end to lessen exposure... I don't know why my histogram in Lightroom shows everything at the far right, and I also had the blinkies in some of the exposures I tried

Why would you think the histogram of your image (not my revision of it) should not show data positioned on the right side? If the image displayed blinkies in your camera, why would you not think the data should be positioned there?

Trust you histogram and stop doubting it. When you think it's wrong, it's because your understanding of the tonal values is inaccurate. (The reason I never use spot metering is because I am very certain that my understanding of the tonal values is inaccurate.)

When in Aperture priority, set at an ISO of 100... If I see the blinkies I dial in negative exposure compensation, which increases the shutter speed to decrease the exposure. And if it is underexposed I dial in positive exposure compensation which decreases the shutter speed to increase the exposure of the image.

Correct.

When in Manual mode, set at an ISO of 100.... If I see that the histogram is on the left side (tending to be underexposed in the shadows) and I wish to push the exposure to the right I dial in positive exposure compensation which lightens the image even though it doesn't effect the shutter speed or aperture.

I actually don't know how that works. If your understanding is correct, it has to be that the ISO value is increased.

[Mike Buckley]

Reviewing the image in the LCD for determining anything other than sharpness and depth of field is as close to useless as anything is. Don't review it to determine whether your exposure is as you want it; use only the histogram and the blinkies to determine that.

[Mike Buckley]

Christina,

I would like you to open an image in post-processing software, hover your mouse over the image, and have a reading that displays the luminosity value of the pixel where your mouse cursor is. Nikon Capture NX2 displays that reading in its Levels and Curve tools. My version of Photoshop Elements doesn't but it's an old version; perhaps a newer version does. Lightroom doesn't. Hopefully (surely!) your Photoshop CC does. Hopefully View NX2 or View NX-D does.

It could benefit you greatly to determine the luminosity values of the various segments of your tree image. I would be willing to bet one heck of a lot of money that those values will surprise you. If so, you will learn that your assessment of tonal values is not as accurate as you think it is. Once you have learned that, you will also learn to trust the data displayed in the histogram. You currently seem unwilling to do that, and that decision seems to be very much getting in your way.

[Brownbear]

Hi Mike,

Thank you for your help. Replying is getting complicated so I will try a bold font to highlight my replies.

The histogram is telling you that most of the trees are closer to the blacks. Always believe the histogram. Don't doubt it.

okay

There are five possibilities that could explain that:

• You weren't using a tripod and you were using auto focus. When you focused to take the next image, your focus point landed on a significantly darker or lighter spot in the scene and affected the metering.
• You weren't using a tripod. When you composed your next shot, the composition was different enough that it affected the metering.
• The light changed before you metered the next shot.
• You accidentally reduced the exposure too much.
• Any combination of the above

I was using my tripod and auto focus.

I've never thought about the effects of auto focus on exposure so that is good to know. However, if I use single point auto focus and choose my focus point, all should be fine?
Yes, the light was changing quickly.
Yes, reducing the exposure too much by accident is also likely, as is a slightly different composition.

Lot's of things of little things to keep in mind. Thank you.


Why would you think the histogram of your image (not my revision of it) should not show data positioned on the right side? If the image displayed blinkies in your camera, why would you not think the data should be positioned there?

Trust you histogram and stop doubting it. When you think it's wrong, it's because your understanding of the tonal values is inaccurate. (The reason I never use spot metering is because I am very certain that my understanding of the tonal values is inaccurate.)

Yes, and yes I am still working on trying to see the different tones in a scene.



Correct.



I actually don't know how that works. If your understanding is correct, it has to be that the ISO value is increased.

For Nikon cameras, in manual mode with auto iso the shutter speed changes to allow for a better exposure. ie; decreases the shutter speed if the the highest ISO is not sufficient. In Manual mode with a fixed ISO the ISO is not changed, nor is the aperture or the shutter speed.

To the best of my understanding, it simply pushes the meter to expose to an equivalent stop.. ie. If photographing a snowy scene in manual mode and I dial in +1 it will push the exposure one stop over the middle of the center ideal value. I don't know how it does that without changing your settings, nor could I explain it but it seems to work.

[Brownbear]

Hi Mike,

I will try just that, tomorrow morning. I don't know how to do that in Photoshop CC (or any program) but I will try to figure it out. It is not that I am unwilling, likely just that I'm trying to learn and process what I see as it relates to what my camera produces, a very different and new thought process for me.

Anyhow, I will do first thing tomorrow when I can look at this tree image with a fresh approach.

Thank you.

Christina,

I would like you to open an image in post-processing software, hover your mouse over the image, and have a reading that displays the luminosity value of the pixel where your mouse cursor is. Nikon Capture NX2 displays that reading in its Levels and Curve tools. My version of Photoshop Elements doesn't but it's an old version; perhaps a newer version does. Lightroom doesn't. Hopefully (surely!) your Photoshop CC does. Hopefully View NX2 or View NX-D does.

It could benefit you greatly to determine the luminosity values of the various segments of your tree image. I would be willing to bet one heck of a lot of money that those values will surprise you. If so, you will learn that your assessment of tonal values is not as accurate as you think it is. Once you have learned that, you will also learn to trust the data displayed in the histogram. You currently seem unwilling to do that, and that decision seems to be very much getting in your way.

[Mike Buckley]

In Manual mode with a fixed ISO the ISO is not changed, nor is the aperture or the shutter speed.

That's not possible. Any time the exposure is changed regardless of the method being used to change it, at least one of those three components -- the aperture, shutter speed or ISO -- must change. Unless Nikon has figured out a way to defy the physics of light.

Even if the display in your camera is not changing, at least one of those three factors is changing.

[Mike Buckley]

When you use a single-point auto focus, just be aware that the placement of the focus point does affect the metering somewhat in extreme situations. It will become apparent once you get used to assessing things when you are photographing a scene with bright tones adjacent to dark tones and when you place the focus point on the bright tone for one image and on the dark tone for the next image. For now, don't be concerned about it, as that is a level of nuance that for all practical purposes will only confuse you at this stage of your learning curve.

[Brownbear]

Exp Comp Set at plus 1, then I dial in my settings to match that point, or vice versa if Exp Comp is set at -1. It is not automatic like it is in auto ISO in manual mode.

ie; If I see that I need to expose the image to the right for shadow detail, if I up the exposure compensation to +1, at a fixed ISO of 100 - all I have to do is change the shutter speed or aperture to meet that exposure. It is visual tool that makes exposure easier but I can't explain how it works.

I will do some research tomorrow and see if I can find something that explains the use of it better than I can.

Thank you for the tip on focus points.

That's not possible. Any time the exposure is changed regardless of the method being used to change it, at least one of those three components -- the aperture, shutter speed or ISO -- must change. Unless Nikon has figured out a way to defy the physics of light.

Even if the display in your camera is not changing, at least one of those three factors is changing.

[Stagecoach]

When in Manual mode, set at an ISO of 100.... If I see that the histogram is on the left side (tending to be underexposed in the shadows) and I wish to push the exposure to the right I dial in positive exposure compensation which lightens the image even though it doesn't effect the shutter speed or aperture.

What am I missing?

Hi Christina,

When in Manual mode and you dial in 'Exposure Compensation' all you are doing is applying a 'bias' to the cameras metering system. The values of Speed/Aperture will not change by doing this until you adjust speed/aperture manually to to re-centre the meter indicator on the biased scale.

Personally if using Manual mode and I want my histogram moved either to the left or right I simply adjust the speed (or could be aperture/ISO) up or down offsetting the meter indicator rather than bothering about dialing in +/- EC with the risk of forgetting to re-set this to Zero prior to my next shot.

Grahame

[Brownbear]

Hi Grahame,

Thank you for the explanation. I shouldn't have stated just lighten up the photo (or darken). But it is different than auto iso in manual mode which changes the shutter speed. I like using it because if my iso is fixed, I don't wish to use a higher iso it is easy to figure out the exposure to avoid clipping by changing either the aperture or shutter speed. I don't forget to change this as I've learned to check it.

And when photographing birds in flight and wishing to expose to the right it is a good way to see that you are in fact doing this? (along with checking your histogram)

Applying Bias to the cameras metering system simply means that if you wish to expose to the right, and dial in plus one exposure compensation that the exposure you see in the camera readings through the view finder matches the exposure set?

Thank you.

Hi Christina,

When in Manual mode and you dial in 'Exposure Compensation' all you are doing is applying a 'bias' to the cameras metering system. The values of Speed/Aperture will not change by doing this until you adjust speed/aperture manually to to re-centre the meter indicator on the biased scale.

Personally if using Manual mode and I want my histogram moved either to the left or right I simply adjust the speed (or could be aperture/ISO) up or down offsetting the meter indicator rather than bothering about dialing in +/- EC with the risk of forgetting to re-set this to Zero prior to my next shot.

Grahame

[Brownbear]

At this moment, I feel a little bit overwhelmed with all the technicalities so I'm not sure if I have this correct.
Follow-up to questions etc...


Checking Luminosity Values for the tree image in Adobe Photoshop CC (if I have done this correctly)

Shows Range = 49-253 Mean = 178 Median = 239 Standard Deviation = 75.1

Meaning that yes the darker trees are closer to black than I thought the were but that in this particular shot there was still room to decrease the exposure.

The high luminosity values of 253 show that the highlights are not clipped, but when I view the histogram on the far right it looks clipped, or very almost clipped to me.

Spot metering at the top of the highest tree line should've worked because all these luminosity values are at the upper range of the luminosity values ie varying from 239-253 which to me indicates that I chose the right spot to meter off of... ?

Spot metering...

The manual for the Nikon D7100 states on page 86 that Exposure Compensation is most effective when used with Spot or Center Weighted metering. ?

Exposure Compensation in Manual Mode - From Support Nikon USA

If exposure compensation is set when using automatic Digital and Film SLRs in the manual exposure mode, the actual aperture and shutter speed settings do not change as they do if one of the automatic exposure modes is selected. Instead, the metering scale in the camera's LCD readouts will be shifted by the amount of compensation set, and the photographer must then readjust the aperture and/or shutter speed setting to bring the meter back to the "0" indication to actually achieve the compensated exposure.

To illustrate this, assume you have set f/11 and 1/125 second and the meter scale indicates 0 for correct exposure. If you then set +1 EV compensation, the scale will move 1 EV to the negative side (because the current aperture and shutter settings are now one stop below your desired exposure). Therefore, to achieve the compensation in the actual exposure, you will need to open the aperture to f/8 or reduce the shutter speed to 1/60 second to bring the meter scale back to 0.

Although it is possible to use the exposure compensation feature in the manual mode, it is more practical to use it with the P, S, or A modes because the camera will make the exposure adjustment automatically. In the manual mode, it is much easier to simply shift the aperture or shutter speed by the desired amount directly if you wish to deviate from the metered exposure.

The link for reference https://support.nikonusa.com/app/ans...in-manual-mode


From a Manual Magazine about the functions of Nikon camera

States that Exposure Compensation in Manual Mode is handy for dark or light toned subjects, ie metering for a mid grey tone

The way that I use this that works for me is when I'm photographing a white swan on snow, I know that the camera will try to underexpose the scene so I dial in positive exposure compensation and adjust my shutter speed or aperture to match the new exposure setting (ISO Fixed at a certain value)... Which should work the same for a landscape of a snow covered mountain that fills the frame... It makes sense to me BUT contraindicates the information from Nikon USA (middle paragraph in the quote) pasted below... ie; moves the EV scale in a negative direction


To illustrate this, assume you have set f/11 and 1/125 second and the meter scale indicates 0 for correct exposure. If you then set +1 EV compensation, the scale will move 1 EV to the negative side (because the current aperture and shutter settings are now one stop below your desired exposure). Therefore, to achieve the compensation in the actual exposure, you will need to open the aperture to f/8 or reduce the shutter speed to 1/60 second to bring the meter scale back to 0.

As a result, I am confused about Exposure Compensation in Manual Mode with a fixed ISO because what I think I am doing with the swan in the snow image is trying to compensate for underexposure of the scene by my camera by dialing in positive compensation, which seems to be the opposite of the above statement... ie; the scale will move 1 EV to the negative side

Grahame... Thank you for your explanation of Exposure Compensation in manual mode in terms of the meter. At this moment I am confused about its use, whereas I wasn't before I looked everything up.

Mike... Thank you for letting me know about viewing the image in the LCD for anything more than DOF and sharpness. Doesn't seem right for a high-tech camera but will do.

Thank you Mike and Grahame.

[Mike Buckley]

Meaning that yes the darker trees are closer to black than I thought the were but that in this particular shot there was still room to decrease the exposure.

To clarify your learning experience, try the following out for size: The darker trees are closer to black than to the mid tone you incorrectly assessed them to be. That incorrect assessment also made you erroneously think the histogram is incorrect, when in fact it is correct. Even so, the darker trees are not so close to black that you would have risked clipping the shadow tones if you had reduced the exposure a reasonable amount for whatever reason you might have had in mind.

The high luminosity values of 253 show that the highlights are not clipped, but when I view the histogram on the far right it looks clipped, or very almost clipped to me.

Considering that the highest luminosity value is 255 and that the brightest tones in the image are at 253, you should expect the far right side of the histogram to indicate that some tones are almost clipped. I don't understand why you would think otherwise.

Such a small display of the histogram, whether it's the histogram displayed in the camera's LCD or the histogram displayed in Lightroom, makes it difficult if not impossible to accurately assess such fine details. If CiC's tutorial is correct that you can usually retrieve during post-processing about 1 EV of clipped highlights or shadows, there is no need to be concerned about any further detail when reviewing a histogram.

Spot metering at the top of the highest tree line should've worked because all these luminosity values are at the upper range of the luminosity values ie varying from 239-253 which to me indicates that I chose the right spot to meter off of... ?

First, keep in mind that you used matrix metering, not spot metering, when capturing the NEF that you provided to me.

Second, you would only spot meter a relatively bright tone in the image if you also plan to increase the exposure beyond the exposure the meter would otherwise indicate to use. When using spot metering, I'm reasonably confident the camera "thinks" the luminosity value being metered is 128 (the very middle of the mid tones), though more technically-minded people who unlike me regularly use spot metering may correct me. Another way of putting it is that whatever luminosity value you choose to spot meter, the camera "thinks" it is the same luminosity as a grey card designed to be used for metering.

The manual for the Nikon D7100 states on page 86 that Exposure Compensation is most effective when used with Spot or Center Weighted metering. ?

Every time you mention that, I cringe. Even if that statement was true, it does not indicate that using exposure compensation combined with matrix (evaluative) metering is ineffective. All I can tell you is that 99% of my photos are made using matrix metering and exposure compensation and they are metered to produce the exact exposure that I wanted to achieve. If that's ineffective in Nikon's mind, so be it.

If exposure compensation is set when using automatic Digital and Film SLRs in the manual exposure mode, the actual aperture and shutter speed settings do not change as they do if one of the automatic exposure modes is selected. Instead, the metering scale in the camera's LCD readouts will be shifted by the amount of compensation set, and the photographer must then readjust the aperture and/or shutter speed setting to bring the meter back to the "0" indication to actually achieve the compensated exposure.

That makes sense to me. It also contradicts your earlier statement that the process of using exposure compensation in manual mode doesn't involve changing the aperture or shutter setting.

Although it is possible to use the exposure compensation feature in the manual mode, it is more practical to use it with the P, S, or A modes because the camera will make the exposure adjustment automatically. In the manual mode, it is much easier to simply shift the aperture or shutter speed by the desired amount directly if you wish to deviate from the metered exposure.

That also makes sense to me. That's because once I have chosen the Manual mode, it doesn't make any sense to me to then use an automated method such as the Exposure Compensation; it seems both natural and faster to fine tune the exposure manually.

The way that I use this that works for me is when I'm photographing a white swan on snow...It makes sense to me BUT contraindicates the information from Nikon USA (middle paragraph in the quote) pasted below... ie; moves the EV scale in a negative direction

No, that is not a contradiction. Read the Nikon information again. It clearly states that the resulting display of -1 EV on the scale indicates that your shutter and aperture settings will result in an exposure that is 1 EV less than what you want (less than what you have set the exposure compensation to). That -1 EV is NOT indicating that the camera has automatically adjusted the exposure; it can't do that automatically because it is in manual mode.

I'm compelled to note that part if not all of your confusion has surely come about because you are trying to master spot metering, matrix metering and manual metering when it's clear from your posts that you haven't mastered any of them. Your chosen course of action is NOT working for you, Christina. Personally, I can't justify taking the time to continue going over and over this stuff when I see no end to your confusion so long as you pursue trying to master all of them at the same time.

Do what you want, but I strongly recommend when shooting landscapes that you master matrix metering combined with exposure compensation and aperture priority before moving on to any other method of metering.

[Mike Buckley]

Sorry, Christina, but I really screwed up a lot in my previous post and had to edit much of it after I initially posted it. Apologies! Please take the time to read that post again to ensure that you've read the latest version. I promise not to touch it again.

[Brownbear]

Mike,

Thank you for your help, and for the time that you have taken to answer/clarify my questions/doubts in this reply, and others as well. I truly appreciate it and I hope you know that.

Your explanation of luminosity and the histogram, as well as the proper use of spot metering as it relates to the grey card is helpful to my understanding.

My apologies for bring up spot metering again. I'm just trying to make sure that I do things correctly and even though I have no doubt that matrix metering works just fine (which I've also learned from the exercise you gave me, and from my experience using it). However, when I read things about spot metering especially if it is in my camera manual, I presume it is a reliable and valid resource and because I'm just trying to get a better understanding I shared what I read with the hope that others/yourself would clarify.

I have been using matrix metering, almost always, but on this particular day I switched spot metering, thinking it might work better so why not try it, but from now on I will use matrix metering with exposure compensation until I feel I've mastered it.

With respect to Exposure compensation in manual mode, I just tried it on a white cup filling the frame (twice to confirm), and even though the dial in the view finder shows a negative exposure when you change the aperture or the shutter speed to zero the exposure from that point, it results in a brighter image with the histogram pushed to the right. I cannot explain why but the histogram confirms this, ie; it is moved over to the right. Nevertheless I will stop using it as I can see it is not needed, or recommended.

I see and understand your point of view. I will stick with aperture priority, matrix metering and exposure compensation for my landscapes until I feel that I have mastered it.

Thank you Mike. The help and guidance you have taken the time to give me has been truly helpful, and I value it very highly.

To clarify your learning experience, try the following out for size: The darker trees are closer to black than to the mid tone you incorrectly assessed them to be. That incorrect assessment also made you erroneously think the histogram is incorrect, when in fact it is correct. Even so, the darker trees are not so close to black that you would have risked clipping the shadow tones if you had reduced the exposure a reasonable amount for whatever reason you might have had in mind.



Considering that the highest luminosity value is 255 and that the brightest tones in the image are at 253, you should expect the far right side of the histogram to indicate that some tones are almost clipped. I don't understand why you would think otherwise.

Such a small display of the histogram, whether it's the histogram displayed in the camera's LCD or the histogram displayed in Lightroom, makes it difficult if not impossible to accurately assess such fine details. If CiC's tutorial is correct that you can usually retrieve during post-processing about 1 EV of clipped highlights or shadows, there is no need to be concerned about any further detail when reviewing a histogram.



First, keep in mind that you used matrix metering, not spot metering, when capturing the NEF that you provided to me.

Second, you would only spot meter a relatively bright tone in the image if you also plan to increase the exposure beyond the exposure the meter would otherwise indicate to use. When using spot metering, I'm reasonably confident the camera "thinks" the luminosity value being metered is 128 (the very middle of the mid tones), though more technically-minded people who unlike me regularly use spot metering may correct me. Another way of putting it is that whatever luminosity value you choose to spot meter, the camera "thinks" it is the same luminosity as a grey card designed to be used for metering.



Every time you mention that, I cringe. Even if that statement was true, it does not indicate that using exposure compensation combined with matrix (evaluative) metering is ineffective. All I can tell you is that 99% of my photos are made using matrix metering and exposure compensation and they are metered to produce the exact exposure that I wanted to achieve. If that's ineffective in Nikon's mind, so be it.



That makes sense to me. It also contradicts your earlier statement that the process of using exposure compensation in manual mode doesn't involve changing the aperture or shutter setting.



That also makes sense to me. That's because once I have chosen the Manual mode, it doesn't make any sense to me to then use an automated method such as the Exposure Compensation; it seems both natural and faster to fine tune the exposure manually.



No, that is not a contradiction. Read the Nikon information again. It clearly states that the resulting display of -1 EV on the scale indicates that your shutter and aperture settings will result in an exposure that is 1 EV less than what you want (less than what you have set the exposure compensation to). That -1 EV is NOT indicating that the camera has automatically adjusted the exposure; it can't do that automatically because it is in manual mode.

I'm compelled to note that part if not all of your confusion has surely come about because you are trying to master spot metering, matrix metering and manual metering when it's clear from your posts that you haven't mastered any of them. Your chosen course of action is NOT working for you, Christina. Personally, I can't justify taking the time to continue going over and over this stuff when I see no end to your confusion so long as you pursue trying to master all of them at the same time.

Do what you want, but I strongly recommend when shooting landscapes that you master matrix metering combined with exposure compensation before moving on to any other method of metering.

[Mike Buckley]

Christina,

Your comments about the histogram and clipping lead me to think that you have not mastered analysis of the histogram. Until you master use of the histogram, you will never master any form of metering. You might want to bone up on the histogram, including a very clear understanding of what its X and Y axis indicate.