That is a frequent problem, Brian. The brightness range of the real scene requires a greater range than can be captured with a camera; so the highlights get over exposed while the shadows are over dark.
I tend to expose for the highlights then attempt to recover something from the shadows during editing. Curves often with additional layer masking.
The 'simple' alternative is a number of shots (auto exposure bracketing possibly) then auto or manual merging into some form of HDR. Which is fine when you are shooting a static subject and using a stable tripod. Not such a handy idea when your subject is moving in the wind or you are hand holding the camera!
One way around this, but not a perfect solution, that I frequently use is to expose to prevent the highlights from 'blowing' and just take one shot in Raw format.
During the Raw conversion I set one 'exposure' setting for the highlights then go back and do another image conversion for the shadows. These two images can then be merged together using masks on layers.
But it is a technique which requires suitable software and a degree of skill with the masking. I use a drawing tablet and pen instead of a mouse.
Alternatively, you can simply be happy with the image which you have shot.