Originally Posted by
GrumpyDiver
Binnur - again; back to basics.
Camera captures image data and that RAW data is NOT affected by anything other than your aperture, shutter speed and ISO settings. Everything else is up to you when you do your RAW conversion.
From here, things get a touch more complicated. RAW data is not an image, so every time you take a picture, your camera processes the RAW data and creates a jpeg that is displayed on the screen on the back of your camera, and that image is based on the camera settings. These settings are also written to the data that your camera stores; including the settings you happen to have selected.
On opening the RAW data, ACR has access to these paramters; BUT Adobe does not have access to Canon, Nikon, Panasonic, Sony, etc. firmware, so any interpretations of these settings are based on assumptions made by the Adobe programing team; not the camera manufacturer's engineers.
When you look at the file in ACR, some of these parameters are used as "default" values, but this is not a 100% conversion as sharpening, contrast tend to be less than what an in-camera generated jpeg would look like. The jpeg that your camera produces and the view that ACR gives you may (or may not) be close, but they certainly will never be identical.
It is up to you, the RAW shooter, to use the RAW converter to tweak the image the way you see fit. I would not rely on either the camera or ACR to dictate the correct colours. You don't know which one or if either one is actually correct. Here you really have two approaches, and it does depend on how accurate you want your colours to be.
The simplest is to include a neutral target; white grey, etc. in a shot and then use that to set your white balance. This is what I usually do. I have a couple of "professional" targets, but will also use a white shirt, a piece of paper or even someone's eyeball as a starting point to set my white bqlance.
The second is to get the X-rite ColorChecker Passport; which consists of a colour swatch target and the software to produce a lighting / camera specific profile for the the shooting conditions and this will give you an VERY accurate colour profile to use and you colours will be bang on; although frankly I often don't want 100% colour accuracy because the image may look better if it is a touch warmer or cooler.