Single point auto focus vs manual focus

[Brownbear]

When photographing a landscape, stationary subject and the like, I typically using single shot auto focus using a single point, switching to manual focus only if I'm having difficulty grabbing focus.

I read somewhere that it is best to switch to manual focus after locking onto your desired focal point with autofocus. Is there any reason to do so? And if yes, why?

Thank you.

[NorthernFocus]

Hi, Christina. Although I used to do that I've never actually read it anywhere. The reason I used to do so was so I could recompose the image. Landscapes are typically shot with settings allowing wider DOF so focusing on an object relatively close to the camera but not in the center of the frame is pretty common. So focus/recompose/shoot is pretty common when shooting landscapes. If you're not ready to shoot immediately after focusing, this can become problematic with autofocus.

With modern cameras with multiple focus points to choose from it is often possible to pick a focus point that will work with your desired focal point in the scene thereby eliminating the need to recompose. I now use the AF-On button on my camera so it isn't an issue to focus and recompose. So my days of using manual focus are pretty much over. One exception is if I'm using a 3-stop ND filter plus polarizer. In that case manual focus and setting up based on distance is simply easier.

[Brownbear]

Thank you Dan. Truly appreciated.

I can't recall where I read the advice, as I have been reading up on a lot of things. Hence I'm double checking things that I don't understand easily. However, I do recall that it wasn't referring to recomposing a scene, something I rarely do, so it is very nice to know that auto focus is just fine, when it is easy to focus.

Thank you!

Hi, Christina. Although I used to do that I've never actually read it anywhere. The reason I used to do so was so I could recompose the image. Landscapes are typically shot with settings allowing wider DOF so focusing on an object relatively close to the camera but not in the center of the frame is pretty common. So focus/recompose/shoot is pretty common when shooting landscapes. If you're not ready to shoot immediately after focusing, this can become problematic with autofocus.

With modern cameras with multiple focus points to choose from it is often possible to pick a focus point that will work with your desired focal point in the scene thereby eliminating the need to recompose. I now use the AF-On button on my camera so it isn't an issue to focus and recompose. So my days of using manual focus are pretty much over. One exception is if I'm using a 3-stop ND filter plus polarizer. In that case manual focus and setting up based on distance is simply easier.

[Manfred M]

Christina - I do virtually all of my focusing using single point; with the main exceptions being low light (i.e. autofocus does not work reliably so I will use a magnified LiveView) or when shooting motion with the subjects moving towards or away from me, where I will use a 3D continuous focus setting.

In the past (on manual focus cameras) I would do a focus on a point and then back off a touch to take advantage of hyperfocal distance using the scale markings on my camera.

I've recently switched to back button focus and have disabled the focus link to the shutter release. That way I can fix my focus (using single point) and not have it drift off my focus point when I recompose and press the shutter release. I've found that I get fewer out of focus issues going this way.

[Brownbear]

Hi Manfred,

Thank you for sharing. I have been using Live View, a lot, lately and it is a very helpful feature to use, and I often use manual focus in low light, contrast (foggy scenes) and also when things other things are grabbing focus. I do use continuous auto focus frequently, but have yet to try it with the 3D tracking feature, so I will try it out.

Good to know.

I've read all about the benefits of back button focus, and I will eventually try it. Right now it just sounds a little bit to complicated for me to use comfortably, but when I'm ready for it, I will try it.

Thank you. Truly appreciated.

Christina - I do virtually all of my focusing using single point; with the main exceptions being low light (i.e. autofocus does not work reliably so I will use a magnified LiveView) or when shooting motion with the subjects moving towards or away from me, where I will use a 3D continuous focus setting.

In the past (on manual focus cameras) I would do a focus on a point and then back off a touch to take advantage of hyperfocal distance using the scale markings on my camera.

I've recently switched to back button focus and have disabled the focus link to the shutter release. That way I can fix my focus (using single point) and not have it drift off my focus point when I recompose and press the shutter release. I've found that I get fewer out of focus issues going this way.

[chauncey]

Gotta agree...the only time I activate multiple points is when I might be chasing something like BIF.

[Dave Humphries]

Hi Christina,

I have found that greater familiarity with my camera allows me quickly select the most appropriate method for the pertaining conditions.

I would guess that I shoot about 45% of the time AF-ON (back button focus), 45% AF-C with normal half press shutter press AF and 10% using other modes, including Live View and Manual Focusing.

AF-ON does remove a lot of the need to manually focus (as Dan says), or mess with switching the lens from M/A to M, which for me usually means losing sight of the subject while I fumble to feel for the switch.

AF-ON certainly doesn't suit all situations*, but it does make life so much easier for others (when you and the subject are not moving relative to each other), so locking focus (by simply lifting your finger off the button) is just one less thing the camera has to do - and there's less chance of a wonky aim, where the focus point misses the subject, giving a soft shot. If I find the mental workload of co-ordinating two fingers to separately focus and expose is too much, I switch to normal mode - I do this so often that it is usually top of the "recent" menu and easy to find.

* examples when AF-ON is great; shooting wading birds in water, perched birds (especially if 'inside' a bush/tree), landscapes, architecture, animals being shot through glass, mesh or wire fencing or bars (think zoo)

* examples when AF-ON isn't the best choice; flying or moving things - birds, insects, aircraft or trains (non-exhaustive list - you get the idea)

Regarding focus points, probably 95% of the time it will be a single point, for perched wildlife/landscape/architecture, I will compose and select one near what I want sharpest. 5% of the time I might try other modes, like Dynamic 9 or 21 point. or 3D, for flying things against a clear blue sky (be they birds or aircraft).

Hope that helps, Dave

[jcuknz]

I hate it when I press the wrong button and AF changes to multiple focus points
Without the DSLR gadgets I have been taking 'half trigger' with the focus area on the spot I want to be the focus point and then continuing to hold HT compose the shot. This is quick and easy though I know I can and have occasionally pressed the LCD for a one spot focus ... I think DSLRs can do this after a fashion. My PEN has something similar in a simple form.

Christmas Day 2013 I tried something different becuase I only had my bridge camera with me and used the focus lock option for the first time ... worked a treat
I never use manual focus except when I have to, legacy lenses on the Oly Pen. Way back when I started digital and EVF were much cruder than today's variety I determined there was no point in discerning 'mush from mush' so I learnt to use AF properly, which basically is the same as manual focus except the camera does it for me ... picking the required point of focus and focusding on it or something at the same distance.
Manual focusing is a function I was happy to leave with film on taking up digital and AF

Altogether a very personal choice to which I am owning up to rather than saying it is correct.

[Brownbear]

Hi Dave,

Thank you for expanding on the question, sharing your techniques and providing some wonderful examples. Yes, it is very helpful and truly appreciated. And nice to know as it fits with what I am doing, albeit I have yet to try 3D or Back button focus. However, I intend to learn to use these features one day, sooner rather than later.

PS My 300 mm lens has a turning function on the the end of it that switches the lens to manual focus, and I adore this feature. All my other lens require that I move that switch and fumble. So if you need another reason to purchase that 300 mm lens, there it is.

Very helpful!

PPS Chauncey - It is very reassuring to know that you agree with all the replies. Thank you!

Hi Christina,

I have found that greater familiarity with my camera allows me quickly select the most appropriate method for the pertaining conditions.

I would guess that I shoot about 45% of the time AF-ON (back button focus), 45% AF-C with normal half press shutter press AF and 10% using other modes, including Live View and Manual Focusing.

AF-ON does remove a lot of the need to manually focus (as Dan says), or mess with switching the lens from M/A to M, which for me usually means losing sight of the subject while I fumble to feel for the switch.

AF-ON certainly doesn't suit all situations*, but it does make life so much easier for others (when you and the subject are not moving relative to each other), so locking focus (by simply lifting your finger of the button) is just one less thing the camera has to do, so less chance of a wonky aim, where the focus point misses the subject, giving a soft shot. If I find the mental workload of co-ordinating two fingers to separately focus and expose is too much, I switch to normal mode - I do this so often that it is usually top of the "recent" menu and easy to find.

* examples when AF-ON is great; shooting wading birds in water, perched birds (especially if 'inside' a bush/tree), landscapes, architecture, animals being shot through glass, mesh or wire fencing or bars (think zoo)

* examples when AF-ON isn't the best choice; flying or moving things - birds, insects, aircraft or trains (non-exhaustive list - you get the idea)

Regarding focus points, probably 95% of the time it will be a single point, for perched wildlife/landscape/architecture, I will compose and select one near what I want sharpest. 5% of the time I might try other modes, like Dynamic 9 or 21 point. or 3D, for flying things against a clear blue sky (be they birds or aircraft).

Hope that helps, Dave

[Brownbear]

Thank you for taking the time to add on your comment. I've never owned a camera with just manual focus so it is nice to hear that you think auto focus is preferred and just as good, unless needed for focusing under challenging conditions.

Appreciated!

I hate it when I press the wrong button and AF changes to multiple focus points
Without the DSLR gadgets I have been taking 'half trigger' with the focus area on the spot I want to be the focus point and then continuing to hold HT compose the shot. This is quick and easy though I know I can and have occasionally pressed the LCD for a one spot focus ... I think DSLRs can do this after a fashion. My PEN has something similar in a simple form.

Christmas Day 2013 I tried something different becuase I only had my bridge camera with me and used the focus lock option for the first time ... worked a treat
I never use manual focus except when I have to, legacy lenses on the Oly Pen. Way back when I started digital and EVF were much cruder than today's variety I determined there was no point in discerning 'mush from mush' so I learnt to use AF properly, which basically is the same as manual focus except the camera does it for me ... picking the required point of focus and focusding on it or something at the same distance.
Manual focusing is a function I was happy to leave with film on taking up digital and AF

Altogether a very personal choice to which I am owning up to rather than saying it is correct.

[NorthernFocus]

...If I find the mental workload of co-ordinating two fingers to separately focus and expose is too much, I switch to normal mode...

When (not if) that occurs with me, I simply miss the shot

I become mentally constrained earlier in the process. I have to pick one method and do it all the time. If I try switching in mid stream, in addition to missed photos I end up with strained fingers, poked eyes, camera smashed on the pavement out of frustration, etc...

[jcuknz]

Thank you for taking the time to add on your comment. I've never owned a camera with just manual focus so it is nice to hear that you think auto focus is preferred and just as good, unless needed for focusing under challenging conditions.

Appreciated!

On one of the rare occasions when AF didn't work for me was when I was trying to shoot the moon in cloud and MF was no better and before I had focus the cloud had covered the moon for good on that evening

Early on in the 'mush on mush' days I got the feeling that AF took just as long as MF .... or should I say MF took just as long as AF ...so I have stuck with AF and I learnt the hard way to WAIT for it to do its job when with a runner running away from me to the finish line [ he was supposed to be close with the FL in b/g ] but the camera hesitated and hum'd and ha'd and eventually took the photo which was out of focus

So with my cameras I know however impatient I am I MUST wait for the steady light unless I have had time to organise a focus point so there is no wait.

I quite love the PEN with the Rokinon 7.5mm pre-set to 'somewhere between infinity and .75m' and everything seems to be in focus At f/16 just about everything is sharp.

[jcuknz]

I read somewhere that it is best to switch to manual focus after locking onto your desired focal point with autofocus. Is there any reason to do so? And if yes, why?

One of the traps with the Panasonic bridge camera [ FZ30/FZ50 ] is that if you use AF and then switch to MF you may touch the focusing ring and undo what AF did for you. The switch is on the side of the lens quite close to the focusing ring with the zoom ring further along the lens.

A side issue, awhile back Manfred wrote about different kinds of lenses ... the usual still photography lens cannot focus at telephoto and then hold focus as you zoom back for the shot whereas the motion picture lens normally holds focus and I was happy to find out my 14-140 Lumix is of the later type .... but that is all I remember of his posting ... sorry

[Brownbear]

Thank you for sharing. Actually I have experienced just that, one night while trying to photographing the moon with clouds (neither AF or MF worked), so good to know and very helpful. Next time around I will wait.

On one of the rare occasions when AF didn't work for me was when I was trying to shoot the moon in cloud and MF was no better and before I had focus the cloud had covered the moon for good on that evening

Early on in the 'mush on mush' days I got the feeling that AF took just as long as MF .... or should I say MF took just as long as AF ...so I have stuck with AF and I learnt the hard way to WAIT for it to do its job when with a runner running away from me to the finish line [ he was supposed to be close with the FL in b/g ] but the camera hesitated and hum'd and ha'd and eventually took the photo which was out of focus

So with my cameras I know however impatient I am I MUST wait for the steady light unless I have had time to organise a focus point so there is no wait.

I quite love the PEN with the Rokinon 7.5mm pre-set to 'somewhere between infinity and .75m' and everything seems to be in focus At f/16 just about everything is sharp.

[Dave Humphries]

I become mentally constrained earlier in the process. I have to pick one method and do it all the time. If I try switching in mid stream, in addition to missed photos I end up with strained fingers, poked eyes, camera smashed on the pavement out of frustration, etc...

LOL

Like everything else Dan, practice makes perfect

(but I know what you mean, I went through that phase too)

[ajohnw]

When doing shallow depth of field work and manually focusing I always make a point of focusing slightly into the subject to take advantage of depth of field. This come from growing up with completely manual cameras as it prevents say taking head shots and finding some of the head is visibly out of focus in places. Some AF systems are doing something similar now - face recognition and then honing in on the eye. Probably fine face square on but not so good in part profile as I am sure AF tends to lock onto the nearest surface of some subjects wasting depth of field.

Again also when manually focusing I might go the other way and deliberately focus short. That is when a blurred background is wanted and it is at a suitable distance behind the subject.

I'd guess some one might make the comment switch to manual focus if they had problems locking it via some other means. i haven't been into that on Nikon yet as more interested in what the metering does as is at the moment so just point and shoot. AF seems fine which was a worry on a D7000.


John
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[Inkanyezi]

When photographing a landscape, stationary subject and the like, I typically using single shot auto focus using a single point, switching to manual focus only if I'm having difficulty grabbing focus.

I read somewhere that it is best to switch to manual focus after locking onto your desired focal point with autofocus. Is there any reason to do so? And if yes, why?


Thank you.

I do that sometimes, and here's why:
When using timed delay, the AF will focus at the chosen spot or multiple, when the shutter button is half pressed. Often when I shoot something that is not moving, a stationary setup, I don't want it to focus when I touch the button, as I use the self timer to make the camera release after a two second delay. Then I focus first, lock focus by switching to MF, but of course I don't touch the focusing ring of the lens. Then I can shoot a set of bracketed exposures without focus changing. This is also done for panoramas, when nothing shall be changed while reorienting the camera - MF and Manual exposure. Actual focusing is done with AF, and then locked by switching to MF.

The same raindance for actually making a selfie. There is no way to have the camera focus on your face if you don't have a remote release, but you put a stand-in there for focusing, and then you lock focus, so it will not change. MF is a way to lock focus. No change will be made by the camera when the button is pressed.

[jcuknz]

As one who is more likely to be found doing a ten frame pano rather than a simple two or three version I never use manual exposure ... two reasons .... early on I found the exposure at the start of the sequence was frequently rather different to that at the end ... secondly since I stitch using my editing programme with its layers function it is easy enough to match up adjacent frames if the camera or light has changed.
But each to their own and all I am saying is that some do and some don't.

As for selfies .. Almost since I started digital I have had a camera with fully articulated LCD screen and the latest has a touch screen to place the focus point exactly where I think it should be while in front of the camera, with a cable release to activate focus/exposure and take the shot. I have posted a 'macro' photo of my eye previously which is one of the rare occasions when I did this, not something I do every day

[AB26]

Hi Christina,

There is no “rule” on how you should use your camera. It is a matter of developing a shooting style and technique that works for you.

I once listened to a world renowned professional photographer freaking out about people “recomposing”. If recomposing suits you, it is fine. If you use the focus points and move them around in the viewfinder it is fine. If you use single point focus it is fine. If you wish to switch to MF after spot focusing, it is fine. If you can get the shot looking like you want it to look like it is BRILLIANT!

If you are going to switch to MF after locking on, why not use MF from the word go? If your subject is in focus why not simply take the shot?

[ajohnw]

I just bought and infa red remote release for my D7000. Cost under 5 quid including postage. No 1/2 ;press facility as per some types but the camera appears to use delays when it's used. Focus - mirror up - shoot. I did check that the camera had front and rear sensors but my main interest is the rear one. The main problem is size - so small I might miss locate it. It uses a standard lithium button cell. I would hope it only uses power when the button is pressed.

jc is right. The touch screen focus - shoot is amazing. The camera just does it. Ideal for some candid shots. The other useful facility is instant preview via screen or viewfinder showing any clipping clearly. I must admit that makes me lazy - shoot - oh dear it's clipped where I don't want it to be - adjust and shoot again. Or of course making a judgement and saying that's ok. Seriously the D7000 is stone age in comparison - Not that this will stop me from using it.

John
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