Photographing Mountain Scenes - Help needed

[Brownbear]

I'm having a heck of a time trying to capture the morning light as I see it which is always more beautiful in real life.

I'm thinking that perhaps it may be because I have to get closer to the mountains, and an overnight trip somewhere where I can get closer by dawn via a short hike might be necessary.

The following images were all photographed using Aperture priority, tripod and mirror up mode, Focal Length 300 mm and ISO 100. I think the sharpness and DOF is sufficient but something is missing. All of these images are cropped a little from the top and the bottom to focus in on the mountain tops.

#1

f/8 SS 1/200



#2

f/9 SS 1/10



#3


f/9 SS 1/5

A version in black and white because the only colours that appealed to me was the pink. I used an adjustment layer to reveal just the pink on the trees, and for some reason it is more appealing to me than image #4.






#4

This image is the one that I especially wished to capture well but for some reason even though I captured the pink the sky and the pink colour reflected on the snowy trees, it doesn't work.
f/9 1/13




I think these images are an improvement on my prior attempts but they still do not represent the images that I wish to capture.

I'm hopeful that by sharing these images that I may receive some feedback on how to capture mountain scenes at sunrise as they should be. Thank you.

[Shadowman]

Next venture, take along some drawing tools to try and capture what you see or write down what captured your attention and then use those reminders while editing. Or video.

[Brownbear]

I'm hopeless at drawing but I will give it a try with the hope that it will help me visualize the scene... Video - I haven't a clue how to make one and learning to do so would be overload for me, but a great idea... Thank you.

Next venture, take along some drawing tools to try and capture what you see or write down what captured your attention and then use those reminders while editing. Or video.

[Shadowman]

I'm hopeless at drawing but I will give it a try with the hope that it will help me visualize the scene... Video - I haven't a clue how to make one and learning to do so would be overload for me, but a great idea... Thank you.

Your 7100 should be able to record video and you can use Windows Movie Maker (free) to convert. Regarding the drawing, you can either use graphite to just laydown the tones or colored pencil to map out hues. I use the drawing tool to lay out still life images prior to setting up the shot.

[Quentin88]

It's hard to say like that what could be the problem, so I think the best way to find it is the "zebras logic" (When you hear hoofbeats, think of horses not zebras) or in other words, let's try to exclude the "obvious" before of thinking to more complex things.
In #2 and #4 look like there is some haze, remember than tele-lens as 300mm tend to emphathize mist/fog/haze as effect of "compressed distortion" (the suspended water particles look more compacted) and colours look softer and with less contrast and saturation.
Other possible explaination could be a wrong white balance, try to use "direct sunlight" to have a more natural looking pics or "cloudy" for a warmer one.
Did you disactivated the "active d-lighting" setting of your nikon? The D-lighting tend to balance hight contrast images and thus make hard to capture a sunrise light.
If you used Av-Mode did you used matrix metering mode? Did you compensated the exposoure?
Have you tried multi-exposure for capture a wider range of dynamic tones (HDR)? You can make an HDR in camera from 3 shots (Menu>Shooting Menu>Multiple Exposure) and than shooting three pics with three different exposoure.

[Brownbear]

Hi Pellegrino,

1. Yes, there is likely mist and also perhaps some haze, as these mountains are just on the outskirts of the city in a regional park where I live. However, these are taken the very first morning after a heavy rain with the hope that the heavy rain washes away the haze.

2. I've been using auto WB warm. I checked out the daylight and cloudy preset, and although they show a wee difference with daylight being more natural, it is not enough of a difference.

3. I've never used the D-lighting setting on my camera but I will double check that it doesn't kick in automatically for some scenes.

4. Yes, I used matrix metering and exposure compensation. I believe the exposures for these scenes are fine. I've tried bracketing and combining images one time but I didn't like the look of the combined images. However, I will try it once more it on my next opportunity.

Thank you.

It's hard to say like that what could be the problem, so I think the best way to find it is the "zebras logic" (When you hear hoofbeats, think of horses not zebras) or in other words, let's try to exclude the "obvious" before of thinking to more complex things.
In #2 and #4 look like there is some haze, remember than tele-lens as 300mm tend to emphathize mist/fog/haze as effect of "compressed distortion" (the suspended water particles look more compacted) and colours look softer and with less contrast and saturation.
Other possible explaination could be a wrong white balance, try to use "direct sunlight" to have a more natural looking pics or "cloudy" for a warmer one.
Did you disactivated the "active d-lighting" setting of your nikon? The D-lighting tend to balance hight contrast images and thus make hard to capture a sunrise light.
If you used Av-Mode did you used matrix metering mode? Did you compensated the exposoure?
Have you tried multi-exposure for capture a wider range of dynamic tones (HDR)? You can make an HDR in camera from 3 shots (Menu>Shooting Menu>Multiple Exposure) and than shooting three pics with three different exposoure.

[Ken MT]

I suggest that you take the RAW image as that gives you more chances in changing the scene as you saw it

[nimitzbenedicto]

Hi Christina,

Hey, you started a good thread - mountain views.

Hoping to learn from the masters.

Thanks

[Manfred M]

Christina - I think you are facing the classic issue of your senses being overwhelmed by the beauty of what you see before you, but your camera just records a slice of what is there. I think you need to stick to the basics that you would consider in an other image and start building a shot the same way.

1. What is the subject? Are your viewer's eyes drawn the the subject? If your subject does not draw the viewers eyes and holds them, your image is not strong enough.

2. What compositional elements / techniques have you used in your image? Rule of thirds, repeating patterns, "S" curve, etc? While these "rules" are suggestions, using them to start building your image and then you can figure out if or if not you want to break them.

3. How have you handled your image in post? Is the white balance the way you want it? What about your black and white points? What about sharpening and contrast, etc.

Unfortunately, the rest of us were not there, so you are going to have to use your compositional skills to draw us in. Yes, you are working the shot (this is a good thing), but not every shot ends up being a winner. Part of what you as the photographer have to figure out is what your audience sees.

[Mike Buckley]

3. I've never used the D-lighting setting on my camera but I will double check that it doesn't kick in automatically for some scenes.

It doesn't. You have to enable active D-lighting.

Always refer to the camera setting as active D-lighting, not D-lighting. That's because Nikon's post-processing software has D-lighting, which is different. Active D-lighting is always done in-camera. D-lighting is always done using Nikon's post-processing software.

[Mike Buckley]

Christina,

Christina - I think you are facing the classic issue of your senses being overwhelmed by the beauty of what you see before you, but your camera just records a slice of what is there.

It's good to see Manfred saying that. I've always felt that this is your issue.

Perhaps another way to say it: Enjoy the moment of experiencing the three-dimensional scene with all of its sounds and aromas. Make the best possible photograph, which is a two-dimensional object with no sounds or aromas. When the photo doesn't live up to experiencing the scene, take into account the limitations of the photo.

Yet another way of saying it: Stop comparing your photos to your memory of experiencing the scene. Instead, just make the best damn photo you can make.

At the risk of getting really, really boring, another way of saying it: I've been to the Grand Canyon in terrible light. Experiencing the Grand Canyon in terrible light is far better than viewing any photo I've ever seen of it in the very best light. Get used to it; a photo is not the same as experiencing the scene. If it was, we wouldn't bother going to the places that we go to. Instead, we would look at photos, and spend a lot less time and money doing it.

[Donald]

It's good to see Manfred saying that. I've always felt that this is your issue.

Or to get really, really, boring, another way of saying it is ..... You were in amongst majestic, awe-inspiring scenery. That much is obvious from the pictures that you've posted. I don't know how on earth I would have made a magnificent image from that scenery. Sometimes the image that really works for you comes from a landscape that is not that majestic and awe-inspiring.

For example, I'm quite pleased with this one. But to stand where I did stand and look at the scene before me was, although very beautiful, not something that immediately shouted 'photography'. I had to 'work' a bit to get the image out of the landscape before me.

[Brownbear]

Thank you to all for taking the time to reply and share some advice.

Ken...

Thank you. I do shoot raw. However, I'm also still learning to post process images with the hope of bringing out the scene I saw. ie; working on it

Manfred...


Thank you. I do think that part of the problem is me being able to create a compelling composition. (as well as learning to see what scenes I can actually capture well with my camera)

These images are such as small part of the overall vista (300 mm lens) and my subject was the snow covered mountain peaks. (with misty tops or pink light and clouds) Aat the time I was thinking that the lines of trees on the mountains would lead the eye to the mountain peaks.

I was especially hopeful that the last image of the mountain adorned with trees covered in snow lit by the light would be so much more. I played with the black and white points, and curves after setting the WB before other post processing adjustments it is a little better but not the beauty it should be.

I need to rethink my mountain view images and I have printed your reply, with the intention of using this as a guideline.

Mike...

Slowly but surely it is sinking in. I will do just that. Thank you for sharing your experience. I've never been to Yellowstone but I've seen images and I can imagine how beautiful this place truly is.

I will read up on active D-lighting so I know what it is.

Donald...

Yes, the area that I live has beautiful mountain vistas, hence my quest to try and capture their beauty. I'm learning that I can't capture the view as I see it. Thank you for sharing. I adore your mountain view, a truly beautiful image that I would be ecstatic to capture. I will concentrate on "working" to create and portray the mountain scenes I'm trying to capture.

Thank you to everyone for your tips and helpful advice.

I need to put some more thought into these scenes, and at the risk of sounding boring, yes, I'm starting to get it... ie; portraying a three dimensional scene and feeling, somehow in a two dimensional image. It sound like something that will take me a while to figure out how to do, well.

[rpcrowe]

Christina...

I have selective vision in that I can see a magnificent vista and amalgamate both the principle portions of that vista along with everything else ending up with a product that might not actually have been there. I tend to do a lot of my landscapes with longer focal lengths because I personally have problems effectively showing a very large areas in my images. I also like longer focal lengths because they tend to compress distances. Cropping is another possibility when you are at your maximum focal length.

When I look at your first image, the area that pops out for me is the peak with the bit of blue sky in back. I picked out this area in a two different crops. I didn't worry about the quality of the image due to the cropping of the small posted images. I just wanted to show what "I saw" in your image.

I also increased the contrast and blue a bit. If I were working on this to be a finished image, I would have selectively increased the blue in the sky and not have shadows around the tree areas seem over blue.

I also think that a landscape benefits from some type of frame or border...

This image portrays to me the magnitude of the peak...

1.


While this image portrays the rough terrain along the tops of the mountain...

2.


I like the way that the sun is hitting the peaks from image left. However, I wonder if this might not be an opportune time for a CPL filter which might darken the blue of the sky and also reduce the reflectance of the snow. It might cut through the haze a bit but shouldn't disturb the clouds obscuring the peak which I think are a great part of the image...

I also think that capturing the image in RAW will allow you greater versatility in post production...

[Brownbear]

Thank you for sharing and taking the time to show a different version. I see that you picked out the sad little face in the mountain peak. I will play with this image and keep this scene in mind the next time I try to photograph this scene, even though it will not be the same as the snow will likely disappear soon. Yes, I need to purchase some polarizing filters and intend to do so soon.

Thank you Richard!

Christina...

When I look at your first image, the area that pops out for me is the peak with the bit of blue sky in back. I picked out this area in a few different crops. I didn't worry about the quality of the image due to the cropping of the small posted images. I just wanted to show what "I saw" in your image.

1.

2.

3.


We have selective vision in that we can see a magnificent vista and amalgamate both the principle portions of that vista along with everything else. I tend to do a lot of my landscapes with longer focal lengths because I personally have problems showing a very large area in my images...

I like the way that the sun is hitting the peak from image left. However, I wonder if this might not be an opportune time for a CPL filter which might darken the blue of the sky and also reduce the reflectance of the snow.

[Polar01]

Christina: I took your #4 did a small crop, however first I opened in ACR or if you use LR, did some adjustment but nothing much, small changes. When into the colours sections and adjusted to bring out those pinks that I knew were there. They probably were not strong but I think, no, I know my mind would have remembered as they now appear as that is how I want them to appear.
Christina what you see and the camera sees are two different things, the trick is to take what the camera captured and change that into what your mind saw. That is where knowing what can be done in post production, it took me about 3 minutes in total. I knew that the pink was there so it was a matter of bring that colour forward to give me my reality. I would suggest when working with the colour slider to be bold making big moves to see what happens, small ones sometimes one does not see the change.

Cheers: Allan

[rpcrowe]

Christina... One way to economically provide CPL filters for lenses of different diameters is to purchase one filter that woul fit the largest diameter lens and then use step rings to be able to fit this filter to lenses with smaller diameters.

Step rings are pretty inexpensive and IMO that it is better to buy one really good filter than to buy several not so good filters...

[Brownbear]

Hi Allan,

Thank you for taking the time to show me this. I quite like your version, and prefer it to my edit. The pink on the trees is as they were, the clouds were not quite so pink, nor was the top of the mountain on the right side. It has a fantastical quality bringing to mind an "imaginary world" that I like, a lot.

I tried to do the same using the colour sliders (magneta, purple, red) in LR but couldn't replicate your version. I'm will save this image and and try again another day.

Thank you!

PS I just noticed your signature statement.... Very thought provoking!

Christina: I took your #4 did a small crop, however first I opened in ACR or if you use LR, did some adjustment but nothing much, small changes. When into the colours sections and adjusted to bring out those pinks that I knew were there. They probably were not strong but I think, no, I know my mind would have remembered as they now appear as that is how I want them to appear.
Christina what you see and the camera sees are two different things, the trick is to take what the camera captured and change that into what your mind saw. That is where knowing what can be done in post production, it took me about 3 minutes in total. I knew that the pink was there so it was a matter of bring that colour forward to give me my reality. I would suggest when working with the colour slider to be bold making big moves to see what happens, small ones sometimes one does not see the change.

Cheers: Allan

[Brownbear]

Hi Richard,

Thank you! I will look into buying one quality CPL filter that fits all my lens and some step rings. Far more affordable then buying filters for each lens. Appreciated!

Christina... One way to economically provide CPL filters for lenses of different diameters is to purchase one filter that woul fit the largest diameter lens and then use step rings to be able to fit this filter to lenses with smaller diameters.

Step rings are pretty inexpensive and IMO that it is better to buy one really good filter than to buy several not so good filters...