Spikes Pacific Cousin

[Stagecoach]

Grahame & Isabel,
Most likely the string of web you see is what's called a drag line. The spiders will lay a drag line down so that, when it jumps, if it misses it has a web to climb back up. Most ground spiders in fact lay a drag line down as they go about their business.
[Keep posting spidey pics and everyone is going to learn a lot about spiders ;-)]

Jack,

I find the information you are giving us intriguing and very much appreciate it as it's certainly widening my knowledge. As for the drag line this corresponds exactly to what was happening as these were being run out as he jumped between camera, desk lamp and leaf.

Grahame

[IzzieK]

Same here for me, Jack...your information about the drag line is very interesting. Despite that I do not really like bugs, it will be interesting for me now to find and pick up a few this coming days as our official spring has just sprung according to our holy weatherman... As some old Aussies will say, your blood is worth bottling.

Jack,

I find the information you are giving us intriguing and very much appreciate it as it's certainly widening my knowledge. As for the drag line this corresponds exactly to what was happening as these were being run out as he jumped between camera, desk lamp and leaf.

Grahame

[emmerick]

nice capture Grahame, got the same spider here at home and until now, i haven't got the luck to have them critters stay in front of my camera and say cheese..so frustrating that i'm thinking of drugging them just so i can shoot them..

[deetheturk]

Hi Grahame,i really dont think that is a big issue,you are going to get catch lights in the eyes whenever you use flash,do what i do,if they are too big clone them down to size I still think you have done a great job

David

[Brownbear]

Hi Grahame,

When you place an extender on the end of your macro lens does that help to fill the frame, and achieve a greater DOF? I find it very challenging to grab focus and keep focus on a moving bug when really close to fill the frame, as well as managing sufficient DOF. Any tips to share?

Thank you.

Hi Christina,

Over the past months there have been a few threads/posts that have discussed the abilities of the various methods of obtaining close up/macro images so I am including the lens and tube info along with the size and magnification achieved as it may be of help to some. It's often difficult looking at close up images to appreciate the actual size of the subject whereas if we look at an image containing a human scale is obvious to us.

The magnification info is also useful to me in that I have now started looking at the physical size of a subject, having an idea of how and what I want to include in the frame without cropping and all of which will determine if I need to go greater than 1:1 and if all tubes will be needed to achieve my max capability of 2:1.

One area I must sort is my reference to the 105mm macro lens aperture and I always quote the indicated figure by the Nikon system but this does not equate to indicated aperture by such as Canon and Tamron lenses.

Grahame

[Stagecoach]

Hi Grahame,

When you place an extender on the end of your macro lens does that help to fill the frame, and achieve a greater DOF?

I'm assuming you are referring to fitting extension tubes between camera and the lens Christina.

Fitting of extension tubes decreases the FoV that is recorded by the sensor. If we take your 105mm macro lens at it's minimum focus distance which equates to a magnification of 1:1 this simply translates that if you focus on a bug that is 23.6mm wide it will fill your sensor across its full width which is 23.6mm wide. Your working distance with this scenario, lens front to bug will be approx 150mm.

When we fit an extension tube it increases the lens original magnification but also reduces your working distance. So if we add a full set of tubes to your lens when it's at it's 1:1 magnification we just about double the magnification but reduce our working distance from 150mm down to 70mm approx. With double the magnification (now 2:1) you will only capture half of your 23.6mm wide bug on the sensor. The CiC tutorial covers the maths.

Any extension tube addition requires the camera/lens to subject distance to reduce thus reducing DoF. The affect of the reduction of DoF is perhaps not too significant as you subjects are also smaller but it can be compensated for by using a smaller aperture if lighting allows.

I find it very challenging to grab focus and keep focus on a moving bug when really close to fill the frame, as well as managing sufficient DOF. Any tips to share?

You are not the only one that finds it challenging to get a focussed shot of a bug that moves, we all do. As an example it took me about one hour to get the two spider shots, 5 shots taken, 3 straight to the bin, 1 50/50 and just two I was reasonably happy with.

As for tips with critters that move here's some of what I have learnt;

1 - General

a) The DoF you are able to achieve is going to be very dependent upon lighting available, flash is a great bonus. Do not worry too much about DoF an image of a fly with a brilliant sharp eye is just as impressive if a 1/4 or 3/4 of it's body is in focus.

b) Before shooting consider the bug size, how you want to fill the frame, magnification required. I tend to think that I want to fill 3/4 of the frame with the subject and aim not to crop later.

2 - Handholding

a) Do not waste time with live-view or mirror up.

b) Be pretty sure you are set up correctly before approaching the bug, take a test shot of something first as there's nothing worse than being focussed on that perfect pose in the frame pressing the shutter only to find you forgot to turn your flash on or left the camera set at ISO6400.

c) Preset you lens magnification first so that you do not have to put your hand on the lens barrel to rotate it scaring the bug.

d) Support yourself well and move in slowly concentrating on the framing firstly with the shutter half pressed.

e) As the subject becomes more in focus concentrate totally on the eye and only on the eye. The instant the eye is sharpest fully press the shutter.

3 - Tripod

a) With a bug that moves a lot this is real fun as the only option is to move the rig each time.

b) If it's not likely to stop in one position for very long forget mirror up.

c) Personally I never use live-view at all because I trust my focusing ability using the viewfinder.

d) I hold the remote release in my left hand, finger on button and as winding the focus ring (or at times my focus rail) the instant the eye is in focus snap the shot.

If your subjects are steady for long enough you have time to play with such things as aperture, lighting, mirror up e.t.c.

Hope there's something helpful here

Grahame

[Brownbear]

Hi Grahame,

Very helpful, indeed! I intend to print your reply and use it as a reference. Thank you. Truly appreciated.

I've never seen or used an extension tube, I assumed it was like an extender that one attaches to their lens.

One hour to manage two nice shots of spiders on the move! Thank you for sharing that - holding that thought wiill help build patience when I try for such a shot.

Thank you.

I

I'm assuming you are referring to fitting extension tubes between camera and the lens Christina.

Fitting of extension tubes decreases the FoV that is recorded by the sensor. If we take your 105mm macro lens at it's minimum focus distance which equates to a magnification of 1:1 this simply translates that if you focus on a bug that is 23.6mm wide it will fill your sensor across its full width which is 23.6mm wide. Your working distance with this scenario, lens front to bug will be approx 150mm.

When we fit an extension tube it increases the lens original magnification but also reduces your working distance. So if we add a full set of tubes to your lens when it's at it's 1:1 magnification we just about double the magnification but reduce our working distance from 150mm down to 70mm approx. With double the magnification (now 2:1) you will only capture half of your 23.6mm wide bug on the sensor. The CiC tutorial covers the maths.

Any extension tube addition requires the camera/lens to subject distance to reduce thus reducing DoF. The affect of the reduction of DoF is perhaps not too significant as you subjects are also smaller but it can be compensated for by using a smaller aperture if lighting allows.



You are not the only one that finds it challenging to get a focussed shot of a bug that moves, we all do. As an example it took me about one hour to get the two spider shots, 5 shots taken, 3 straight to the bin, 1 50/50 and just two I was reasonably happy with.

As for tips with critters that move here's some of what I have learnt;

1 - General

a) The DoF you are able to achieve is going to be very dependent upon lighting available, flash is a great bonus. Do not worry too much about DoF an image of a fly with a brilliant sharp eye is just as impressive if a 1/4 or 3/4 of it's body is in focus.

b) Before shooting consider the bug size, how you want to fill the frame, magnification required. I tend to think that I want to fill 3/4 of the frame with the subject and aim not to crop later.

2 - Handholding

a) Do not waste time with live-view or mirror up.

b) Be pretty sure you are set up correctly before approaching the bug, take a test shot of something first as there's nothing worse than being focussed on that perfect pose in the frame pressing the shutter only to find you forgot to turn your flash on or left the camera set at ISO6400.

c) Preset you lens magnification first so that you do not have to put your hand on the lens barrel to rotate it scaring the bug.

d) Support yourself well and move in slowly concentrating on the framing firstly with the shutter half pressed.

e) As the subject becomes more in focus concentrate totally on the eye and only on the eye. The instant the eye is sharpest fully press the shutter.

3 - Tripod

a) With a bug that moves a lot this is real fun as the only option is to move the rig each time.

b) If it's not likely to stop in one position for very long forget mirror up.

c) Personally I never use live-view at all because I trust my focusing ability using the viewfinder.

d) I hold the remote release in my left hand, finger on button and as winding the focus ring (or at times my focus rail) the instant the eye is in focus snap the shot.

If your subjects are steady for long enough you have time to play with such things as aperture, lighting, mirror up e.t.c.

Hope there's something helpful here

Grahame