Thoughts of a first-time mFT user - Panasonic GX7

[Boatman]

Manfred:

I've been shooting a GH2 for three years now. I have a couple of complaints with the camera but generally I'm very pleased with the m43 format. I wish the GH2 HAD in-body stabilization as it would be useful with adapted lenses, but I have managed to get by without it. Using old primes on these m43 bodies is a lot of fun. You can get nice, fast 50mm primes for dirt cheap and they make great portrait lenses. Also, the faster ~80mm lenses make nice fast telephotos for shows and the like.

I find 1600 is about the top ISO you can use and still get results that you can clean up in Lr. 6400 would be nice but that's not going to happen in this format for a while yet.

If you do pick up the 1.7/20, also plan to pick up a cheap bracket. I find that with the small pancake lens on the camera there just isn't enough camera to hold onto. Since you don't need to focus with the Panny lens, a bracket provides a nice sturdy place for your left hand.

I did not come off of a FF or even crop-sensor DSLR, but I think you will continue to enjoy this camera and be impressed with what it can do.

[ajohnw]

I have no m4/3 lenses that have in-lens IS. That is why I chose the EM-5.

You asked if I have seen "it". The tearing is something I have seen but seldom and it has virtually no impact on usage or keeper rates. It is, for me, a non-issue.

The EVF lag is another thing entirely. I shoot both the EM-5 and Nikon DSLRs and in certain identical situations my keeper rates plummet with the EM-5. This is entirely a timing issue akin to attempting to play a racquet sport with a 1/2 lb weight attached to the racquet. As I mentioned in a previous post, one can learn to predict somewhat better (and I am making the attempt with modest success) but there is a limit.

I'm simply amazed. If it ever stops raining here for a few days when I have spare time I must go find some fast moving objects to shoot in worst case conditions. The only problems I have had in that direct is continuous AF. One fix for that isn't really possible on an E-M5. Fixing focus and waiting for what ever it is to come into focus. On the other hand it does get it right fairly frequently.

I can post something interesting that I have had happen a couple of times - awkward position when the shot was taken and believe it or not I do know how to frame what I am shooting - what happened to the sky above the tower? I have had the same thing happen a couple of times.

For some reason the upload isn't working - I'll post it tomorrow.

John
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[Manfred M]

Manfred:

I've been shooting a GH2 for three years now. I have a couple of complaints with the camera but generally I'm very pleased with the m43 format. I wish the GH2 HAD in-body stabilization as it would be useful with adapted lenses, but I have managed to get by without it. Using old primes on these m43 bodies is a lot of fun. You can get nice, fast 50mm primes for dirt cheap and they make great portrait lenses. Also, the faster ~80mm lenses make nice fast telephotos for shows and the like.

I find 1600 is about the top ISO you can use and still get results that you can clean up in Lr. 6400 would be nice but that's not going to happen in this format for a while yet.

If you do pick up the 1.7/20, also plan to pick up a cheap bracket. I find that with the small pancake lens on the camera there just isn't enough camera to hold onto. Since you don't need to focus with the Panny lens, a bracket provides a nice sturdy place for your left hand.

I did not come off of a FF or even crop-sensor DSLR, but I think you will continue to enjoy this camera and be impressed with what it can do.

Hi Homer - thanks for your thoughts. Like with any piece of gear, there are things that I really like (size and weight, decent performance, quality of the EVF display) and things I don't like (focus speed (contrast detect vs phase detect really), the fact that it is too easy to change certain settings,the annoying auto zoom in in spot focus mode and battery life ). Build quality is decent and image quality quite good.

I'm a bit disappointed that it doesn't blow my 5-year old D90 out of the water; but I guess that really shows that digital camera technology is getting to be relatively mature. The D800 is in a class by itself and will continue to be my "go to" camera.

http://www.dxomark.com/Cameras/Compa...___901_792_439

Part of the issue is that I am still getting used to the camera and that will still take some time, but the only way to get there is to keep shooting.

I'll see about additional lenses as I become familiar with my shooting requirements; at this point the 7-14mm lens is probably of more interest than a fast prime. I primarily bought it as a light-weight camera for biking and backpacking. In fact have done almost no shooting with the 100-300mm lens I already own.

[ajohnw]

The first thing I did with an E-PL1 Manfred was go out for a day and use it. Nothing complicated I let P mode decide what to do, no adjustments, just set ISO. It turned out that P mode is pretty sensible and this gives some idea what the metering does. Then spent some time organising the camera controls. Purely compact type on the E-PL1 really. I then tried a few manual lenses with adapters and then tried it for flash macro. By that time I new the limitations of the camera. Poor in low light as far a AF is concerned but usable at ISO 1600 and the camera itself can take care of noise at that level. Useful camera poor controls for use via the viewfinder so bought an E-P3 to get round the controls problem. I then started taking the odd shot to stretch the camera dynamic range wise. One one a monthly or mini on here, can't remember which. In places were people actually comment on such things some said I was lucky to get that range out of it. Not so I could do it again. Not sure about the same aspects on an E-M5 yet. The weather may be more suitable in a month or so.

Before buying I used my usual review sites lenses as well. Given the problems I had a close look at Panasonic too especially before buying the E-M5.

This is the shot I mentioned in my last post. Think I will leave it to people to figure out what could go on in the camera to have this effect. Also what it might do to the electronic view. There was some sky above when framed. I just took it again. Not that it's a useful shot, I was hanging around waiting for people. In lens can do similar things.

I can't upload photo's still so here is a link, might come up with the wrong orientation if clicked on.

http://www.23hq.com/ajohnw/photo/16019127

The usual crap Oly optics.

John
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[Shadowman]

John or ajohnw provided the following link on another thread:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/ecajoe/sets/


I was very interested in the MFT performance at a ComicCon convention. I was in a similar venue about two years ago and had a terrible time shooting under those conditions (indoor, high ceiling, mixed lighting). I will state that at the time I was afraid of using high ISO and didn't like using flash on the performers so one out of five shots were failures. The camera settings used by the photographer in the above link were very informative as I have similar model camera.

[Manfred M]

Strangely enough John, we followed a similar process when I first got the camera. A quick skim of the manuals off I went, starting in P mode so that I could figure out how I wanted to configure the controls. I think the main difference is that I had handled a number of cameras in-store to figure out how I liked the handling. As I was not in the market for lenses, but wanted a body that I could use these on. I'm still playing with the setup (probably around 80% there now).

I'm going to shoot a bit longer before I think about getting any more lenses, just to see what ranges I tend to do most of my shooting at. Again, because these lenses are shared with my dedicated video camera (and I have the adaptors to shoot all of my Nikon glass on it, and I will be getting one to shoot the Leica glass as well). I have fast wide-angle glass for crop-frame (f/2.8 11-16mm) and full frame (f/2.8 14-24mm and f2.8 19mm) so I can experiment; what I don't like (for the GX-7) is the size and weight of that glass. The three lenses that look interesting from a still and video standpoint are the Panasoinc f/4 7-14mm and the Voigtländer f/0.95 17.5mm and 25mm; but probably more from the video side. On the oither hand. I am looking for a single lens / single body for biking / backpacking approach, so the video side is really the main driver for any lens purchases.

As I am a jprg + RAW shooter, the in-camera image processing is something I care less about, so in camera noise reduction is less important than how the RAW data came across, as I can fix anything I need to in post on using the RAW data

As for the "effect" in your posted image; I see lens flare and keystoning.

[Manfred M]

John or ajohnw provided the following link on another thread:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/ecajoe/sets/


I was very interested in the MFT performance at a ComicCon convention. I was in a similar venue about two years ago and had a terrible time shooting under those conditions (indoor, high ceiling, mixed lighting). I will state that at the time I was afraid of using high ISO and didn't like using flash on the performers so one out of five shots were failures. The camera settings used by the photographer in the above link were very informative as I have similar model camera.

John - the shots on his website are take with a 6D and f/2.8 24-70mm lens, not a mFT. I would used my D800 and f2.8 24-70mm for that kind of event.

[ajohnw]

John or ajohnw provided the following link on another thread:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/ecajoe/sets/


I was very interested in the MFT performance at a ComicCon convention. I was in a similar venue about two years ago and had a terrible time shooting under those conditions (indoor, high ceiling, mixed lighting). I will state that at the time I was afraid of using high ISO and didn't like using flash on the performers so one out of five shots were failures. The camera settings used by the photographer in the above link were very informative as I have similar model camera.

I hoped he had split off E-PL1 and E-P3 shots. He uses other gear as well. Actually he was the guy I had the no way would I buy an EM-5 conversation with. His comment was I would. Maybe the buttons feel a bit plastically. We also had some Panasonic Olympus lens conversations - he won, on price. There are still some advantages to using Panasonic gear on an Olympus camera. Sometimes it's cheaper. Not sure if that is the case on lenses now but he won because basically there is a tendency to get what one pays for and there really is no point moaning about it - just get on an use it.

John
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[ajohnw]

Perhaps you noticed that the sun was just out of shot Manfred and also realised that the lens was angled up rather a lot. Only one way to find out what gear does is to try it. Actually I took several shots on that site just playing around for that reason only.

On the link I know for a fact that he has posted a number of Pen shots some where or the other as I have seen a number of them. He's one of those people who like to show what cameras like Pen's can do using them in situations where he could clearly use his "better" gear if he wanted to.

John
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[ajohnw]

John or ajohnw provided the following link on another thread:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/ecajoe/sets/


I was very interested in the MFT performance at a ComicCon convention. I was in a similar venue about two years ago and had a terrible time shooting under those conditions (indoor, high ceiling, mixed lighting). I will state that at the time I was afraid of using high ISO and didn't like using flash on the performers so one out of five shots were failures. The camera settings used by the photographer in the above link were very informative as I have similar model camera.

How is the exif info obtained on fiickr now - I don't seem to be able to get at it any more? I find it useful at times.

John
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[Manfred M]

How is the exif info obtained on fiickr now - I don't seem to be able to get at it any more? I find it useful at times.

John
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Just click on the image to enlarge it, John. The EXIF info is shown on the side of the large view.

Every image I opened up from his Comic Con 2013 album seems to be taken with the 6D.

[Manfred M]

Perhaps you noticed that the sun was just out of shot Manfred and also realised that the lens was angled up rather a lot. Only one way to find out what gear does is to try it. Actually I took several shots on that site just playing around for that reason only.

On the link I know for a fact that he has posted a number of Pen shots some where or the other as I have seen a number of them. He's one of those people who like to show what cameras like Pen's can do using them in situations where he could clearly use his "better" gear if he wanted to.

John
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Yes, the reflections from the iris and the tilting minarets are both dead give-aways.

I agree that one has to get out and shoot and stretch push the limits. Part of the reason I took the camera / lens combo I plan to use to the musem yesterday was to do wide open, low light shots. I found that with a bit of practice, I could easily shoot at 1/8th and even 1/6th seconds and get reasonable shots at ISO 1600 at shorter focal lengths, with perhaps 25% of the shots being good enough to use.

ISO 1600 is probably as high as I would want to go and even at IS0 800, its noticeable at 100% magnification. As I said before, this is not unexpected, but a still a bit disappointing.

[ajohnw]

By the way forgot to mention I don't usually use a lens hood. I keep meaning to get one for the 12-50mm and others.

I found some E-P3 shots taken at a camera show but only at 400 ISO. That is pretty safe in my view on the 12mp Panasonic sensor. Good job too as means I could look out of the window and say oh a 400 day and use the camera as I shot film. I know there should be some food shots but they aren't in the album.

One option of getting an idea of what these cameras can do is to allow auto to do what it wants including using max iso, noise reduction and anything else it might use and take some shots. I found that a useful option on an E-PL1 a couple of times that saved messing with the menu's. This is one playful shot as I had to remain seated - obvious problems but not really with noise levels. Max iso. 1600 in this case.

http://backup.cambridgeincolour.com/...04507/original

The E-PL1 was praised for it's ability to recover high iso shots but it should be possible to do better from raw. Or is it. An interesting question is some ways.

Shortly after that one I found no view at all in continuous. Shots I wanted too but the above gave me some idea what to expect.

John
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[ajohnw]

I'm finding noise levels in reviews are not all that useful now and also that cameras can give some unexpected results. One type of shot all ok and another different light levels hopeless. Might cause me to wonder if the rate the photons go in at has an effect. Crazy but I sometimes feel higher ISO's work better at lower light levels and what might be called longish exposure times. I used 25600 at 1/15 sec, I should try it at say 1/1000 sec or higher.

I found that moon shots and ducks etc were fine hand held with the Panasonic xx-200mm and 100-300mm. I couldn't put a figure on low light but I would have though well under 1/focal length secs.

I did try some museum type shots. though a glass cabinet. Used flash at an angle to avoid reflections and then perspective correction. I think the uneven lighting is down to the cabinet not the flash. My PP is a little more subtle now. I used maybe too much tone mapping to get rid of the through glass effect..

Not being able to upload shots is getting annoying. There are a few here

https://www.flickr.com/photos/489946...7631145195858/

Flash was used on the bar too so that the lights would come out reasonably - had to replace a tile or 2 in order to get rid of reflections. These sort of shots are why I like a built in flash. Plenty of power for this sort of thing even off Olympus.

John
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[Shadowman]

How is the exif info obtained on fiickr now - I don't seem to be able to get at it any more? I find it useful at times.

John
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There are three dots near the right corner, you click on these and additional data selections are available.

[Shadowman]

Just click on the image to enlarge it, John. The EXIF info is shown on the side of the large view.

Every image I opened up from his Comic Con 2013 album seems to be taken with the 6D.

Maybe I selected another photographer's image. This one showed that it was taken with Olympus E-P3.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/ecajoe...57630028693618

[Manfred M]

There are three dots near the right corner, you click on these and additional data selections are available.

Funny; this is what shows up by default on my screen. All the EXIF data is there...

[Manfred M]

Maybe I selected another photographer's image. This one showed that it was taken with Olympus E-P3.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/ecajoe...57630028693618

Thanks - All the ones I clicked on were taken with a 6D.

[ajohnw]

There are three dots near the right corner, you click on these and additional data selections are available.

Thanks John.

One other comment from him I remember when I was getting frustrated with controlling the camera was that he would use ISO to make it go where he wanted. Pretty obvious but I hate digging through menus so frustrations continued.

Curious cameras E-PL1's. They are addictive after a fashion and also probably as intended encourage people to move up a model at some point.

John
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[ajohnw]

I just came up with a comment that Olympus will not correct a Panasonic lens on one of it's cameras. Odd really as they did but I suppose such things can't be expected to last. Sad really.

John
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