Help and advice for shadows please

[mrsmasch]

I tried, very unsuccessfully to do a maternity shoot this past weekend. The mom's son was not feeling good; it was too sunny and too hot. So I basically took a few photos under a tree for shade and to protect their eyes. My friend, a fellow photographer and graphic designer told me I need to get rid of the shadows on the ground and on their skin as it looks bad for these types of shoots. Of course it is a matter of opinion.

[IMG][/IMG]

Please tell me how I can fix this photo or if you think it needs fixing. It is obvious they are under a tree, so I feel the shadows belong. I have Photoshop Elements and GIMP.

Thanks for your help!

[Shadowman]

I tried, very unsuccessfully to do a maternity shoot this past weekend. The mom's son was not feeling good; it was too sunny and too hot. So I basically took a few photos under a tree for shade and to protect their eyes. My friend, a fellow photographer and graphic designer told me I need to get rid of the shadows on the ground and on their skin as it looks bad for these types of shoots. Of course it is a matter of opinion.

[IMG][/IMG]

Please tell me how I can fix this photo or if you think it needs fixing. It is obvious they are under a tree, so I feel the shadows belong. I have Photoshop Elements and GIMP.

Thanks for your help!

Personally I feel the shadows belong on the ground. However, by having the couple stand in the shade what you ended up doing is created dappled lighting on your subjects, you could have avoided the patchy look by using flash to give some midtones to the couple. If you shot in RAW an edit will be easier, but if you didn't and only have a jpeg to work with; try adding some fill light during ACR and then once you are in PSE adjust the shadows/highlights a bit.

[Geoff F]

Don't overdo any correction and end up with an unnatural looking result.

Photographing subjects in bright light can cause problems if they are squinting into a bright light; or alternatively if you are shooting towards the light; so getting a bit of shadow was an acceptable option.

You can easily do a little bit of correction, but beware of getting over exposed highlights.

Personally, I would use Curves to raise the midtone/shadows slightly whilst leaving the highlights unchanged. I would selectively apply the edit using layers and masks but you may be unfamiliar with that technique.

Don't attempt to totally remove the shadows, just lighten them a little.

[ajohnw]

I suspect this technique using the GIMP will fix this shot up or at least drastically reduce the shadows.

http://polishlinux.org/apps/graphics...ke-fill-flash/

I did it quickly like this. When you do the levels step take particular care with what happens round the eyes. I didn't pay enough attention to the eyes and didn't use the Gaussian blur step.



Should add that using the blur brush on the mask may be a big help getting the eyes correct.

John
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[Manfred M]

I try to avoid shooting in conditions like the one you were shooting in as it is just too much work to get it to work. I bad light, I find that working in full shade and adding a bit of light via flash or reflector to give the image some "pop" works.

You have two issues in this image; one is the dabbling caused by the branches and leaves from the tree and "raccoon eyes". Fill flash (or a reflector) would have improved both issues. I don't think the dappling hurts if it is kept off the subjects faces.

Now that the shot has been done, a bit of post-processing can help. I've done something about the raccoon eys and shadows, I've done a significant crop to get rid of the background that does not do anything for the image and I've warmed up the overall shot (I'm doing this on my laptop that tends to have a bit too much of a blue cast, so the final result might be too warm). I tend to like my portraits to be a bit on the warm side of neutral.

[ajohnw]

Another option in the GIMP is Filters-G'mic-equalise shadows. Not so controllable as the other way but easier. Really though as others have said you should have used fill flash. If there is one the flash built into the camera would probably have coped as not much extra light is needed.

This is what G'mic will do



John
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[mrsmasch]

Thanks so much everyone!!!!

[ajohnw]

There is yet another way shown here - forgot I had the link. It might be worth using this on it's own or after one of the other 2. It can be an effective people fixer especially if under exposed.

http://dl.meetthegimp.org/meetthegimp051.mp4

There are a lot of video's on that site but they do tend to go on a bit in places.

Result just from 2 layers, one 100% opacity the other about 15%. Then create new from visible and export.



John
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[Shadowman]

Nice edits Manfred and John.

[Cherish]

Nice work on touch ups : )

[patrickjohnson]

Shadows are mostly a progressive enhancement, unless your page somehow relies on shadows for design they aren't important. There are also some CSS shadow fallbacks (through MS filters) that can be applied

[Shadowman]

Shadows are mostly a progressive enhancement, unless your page somehow relies on shadows for design they aren't important. There are also some CSS shadow fallbacks (through MS filters) that can be applied

Shadows give form to an object, they make what is a 2-dimensional representation appear to be 3-dimensional. Cast shadows help in grounding an object to the viewing frame, without the cast shadow the subject would appear to be floating in space. The importance of shadows is subjective but does have it's place in photography and art.

[ajohnw]

One thing for sure shadows like these on some ones face with a shot like this are bad news.

John
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[chauncey]

Please tell me how I can fix this photo

I once thought that you could "fix" most anything in Photoshop/PP, six years later I learned...it ain't true!
Relegate that to the trash can and reshoot...maybe with these tips http://digital-photography-school.co...oor-portraits/

[mrsmasch]

Thank you we are definitely going to shoot on a better day with better lighting and scenery. Unfortunately I am at the mercy of a point and shoot.

[Manfred M]

Thank you we are definitely going to shoot on a better day with better lighting and scenery. Unfortunately I am at the mercy of a point and shoot.

A point & shoot is fine for this (and many other) types of shots. I have lots of shots that I am quite proud of that were taken with a P&S camera.

Technique, rather than the tool, are important for success. The suggestions of using a fill-flash are not going to be all that useful, as the tiny built-in flashes in a P&S do not deliver good quantity or quality of light. If you pose your subjects in a shaded area that gives you clean, diffuse lighting, you are going to get a far better result. Try adding a bit of flash from your camera to see if that improves the shot or not.

[Loose Canon]

Once you get into some solid, non-dapped shade you could also try to get to the edge of it where the subjects are still in the shade, then use a reflector to get some light back onto your subjects.

[Mike Buckley]

then use a reflector to get some light back onto your subjects.

You don't need anything elaborate. Any white household item that is large enough will work. The biggest issue will probably be signing up someone to hold it in place while you take the photo.

[ajohnw]

It isn't unusual for the flash on a compact to supply virtually all the light needed for shots up to 3 or 4m but usually at fairly high iso. This shot doesn't need much and if taken an again I would try the fill in setting and pure flash.

The nearly all is based on older types that would focus in rather dark conditions. Contrast focus on compacts has a lot to answer for.

John
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