Opinions on camera setup & workflow to take a picture

[Joan]

Current cameras come loaded with tons of possible adjustments. I wonder if many of them make really sense in most of the cases....

I'm going to briefly describe the workflow that I follow to take a picture and how this workflow affects the way that I have configured and adjusted my camera (EOS 6D) in order to shoot as fast as possible while retaining the control of what I'm doing. As you will see I normally don't use (and I will probably never use) many of the possible camera adjustments that I have available in my 6D.

I would greatly appreciate your comments on my way of doing things and any alternative/improvement that you may suggest.

-1- Picture framing:

This has to do with the zoom that I use as my base lens (24-105 f4 L IS USM) and with which I take 90% of my pictures. The very first step is to adjust zoom and camera orientation to best suit the picture I want to take. If I decide that my base zoom is not the appropriate lens for the shot it is now the time to change it.

-2- Focusing:

If I have plenty of time and I am very concerned for the focusing of the picture, I focus manually using live view and enlarging as much as possible the image in the rear display of the camera. My experience says that most of the times AF can be somewhat improved manually an that there is no replacement for manual focusing.

If I do not have plenty of time or if focusing is not critical, I use auto focus only with the central focus point (auto focus with all the focus points is a nightmare for me and has ruined many good pictures by inadvertently focusing at the wrong point). I aim at the part of the image that I want to be in focus while choosing if possible some area with a clear color contrast to make AF more accurate.

I use always back button focusing. This allows me to go step by step, starting by focusing camera to what I want that be in perfect focus, and forget afterwards the focus issue so as to concentrate on light metering, DOF and speed.

-3- I shoot normally in P-mode. This grants a correct exposure and allows me to quickly adjust speed or lens aperture (depending on what I want to do: if looking for a given DOF or a given speed). Should I need to overexpose or underexpose, I can do it also quite fast with the rear wheel. So, the next step is to select the appropriate combination of aperture and speed (index finger) and to select any exposure compensation (thumb finger).

-4- I use normally evaluative metering, and only under some particular circumstances, spot metering (back lit targets, etc...). I do not really grasp the real utility of the other metering methods available in the camera.

I aim at the point that I want to select for light metering, I half shoot, I recompose and finally I take the picture.

The complete process is quite fast once you are used to it.

Some additional notes:

-5- I shot always in RAW. I do not need, so, all the myriad of adjustments that are possible and that make sense only for JPEGs (picture style...) because I adjust everything when post-processing (why these adjustments are not greyed-out when selecting RAW shooting when configuring the camera ?)

-6- ISO speed setting I use is in AUTO mode from 100 to 3200. On the one hand, should I need to increase ISO beyond 3200, I want to be aware of the need of doing it, but on the other hand I don't want to have to adjust ISO manually in each shot (because it takes time). I consider that I can rely on automatic camera ISO selection for this (manual ISO selection being, so INMHO, not needed, if limiting the upper ISO value). In most cases grain at 3200 is acceptable to me.

-7- All the adjustments are made through the view finder. I never use the rear display.

[Manfred M]

There is no right or wrong answer here, and whatever works for you; who can argue.

My worflow is still heavily influenced by my many years of shooting film; I rarely shoot auto-ISO, as I tend to set this as low as possible to achieve maximum dynamic range, maximum colour depth and minimum noise.

I also rarely shoot P mode; in virtually all my shots I first determine whether I need to set a particular aperture (managing DoF) or shutter speed (to either freeze motion or to blur it). So in order of use; first is aperture priority, then shutter priority, manual (different approaches) and on occasion "P" mode.

I virtually always shoot single focus point, continue mode and will focus on the main focus point and will recompose. Sometimes I do use pre-focus settings and deactivate autofocus after I lock my focus point. Metering tends to be evaluating, except in cases where I don't think it is giving me what I want (I tend to turn to exposure compensation before I turn to spot metering).

[davidedric]

¡Hola Joan! I think your sequence looks pretty good. Perhaps because it's rather like mine

Manfred is several steps beyond me in expertise, and I am sure his advice is sound, but we must learn slowly.

[Shadowman]

Joan,

I looks like you started with one setup, found it didn't work for you so you adjusted your use of AF to something that suited you. That's part of what all this photography stuff is all about; something that works for you. I could tell you that using center focus is wrong but that might not be what you are looking for, nor the viewers of your images. You'll know when it's time to make changes.

[chauncey]

You lucky dog you, in that you have Canon...start to shoot in manual mode, utilizing Live View's histogram.

That LV histogram is based on a jpeg rendition of your image so you need to "neutralize" (slide them to the left) all your "picture style" settings.
Set-up your LV to display a RGB histogram and blinkies whenever it's opened. Now it's a simple matter to adjust SS, F/stop, and ISO to push" that histogram to just shy of the right side, a technique referred to as "Exposing To The Right". Don't even bother with metering as it['s no longer necessary.

Now simply input wanted/needed SS and f/stop and use the ISO to push that histogram to the right or...any combination of the three settings."

This technique will seem awkward to start with but will become second nature.

Make sure that your AF has been micro focus adjusted if needed.
The single focus point is fine until you begin to shoot moving objects that need chased...
then, more focusing points are in order.
Have never done the back button focus thingy.
They are not "grayed out" because that LV image is a jpeg version of the image.

[William W]

. . . I'm going to briefly describe the workflow that I follow to take a picture and how this workflow affects the way that I have configured and adjusted my camera (EOS 6D) in order to shoot as fast as possible while retaining the control of what I'm doing . . . I would greatly appreciate your comments on my way of doing things and any alternative/improvement that you may suggest.

-1- Picture framing:
This has to do with the zoom that I use as my base lens (24-105 f4 L IS USM) and with which I take 90% of my pictures. The very first step is to adjust zoom and camera orientation to best suit the picture I want to take. If I decide that my base zoom is not the appropriate lens for the shot it is now the time to change it.

I do not do that.

Adjusting the Zoom first -or- selecting the lens first (that is to say selecting the FOCAL LENGTH of the lens first), means that the Photographer loses control of the PERSPECTIVE of the image.

I first set the CAMERA VIEWPOINT (Camera Position) to establish the PERSPECTIVE of THE SHOT.

Then, I choose the FOCAL LENGTH of the lens, to FRAME, The Shot.

This is a ‘standard procedure’ and it is most rigorously adhered to by Cinematographers / Directors of Photography. This procedure is less often seen now in Still Photography except by those who have been institutionally taught Photographic (or Art) Theory, by some means or another.

*

-2- Focusing:
If I have plenty of time and I am very concerned for the focusing of the picture, I focus manually using live view and enlarging as much as possible the image in the rear display of the camera. My experience says that most of the times AF can be somewhat improved manually an that there is no replacement for manual focusing.
If I do not have plenty of time or if focusing is not critical, I use auto focus only with the central focus point (auto focus with all the focus points is a nightmare for me and has ruined many good pictures by inadvertently focusing at the wrong point). I aim at the part of the image that I want to be in focus while choosing if possible some area with a clear color contrast to make AF more accurate.
I use always back button focusing. This allows me to go step by step, starting by focusing camera to what I want that be in perfect focus, and forget afterwards the focus issue so as to concentrate on light metering, DOF and speed.

This generally seems a logical set of procedures to adapt.

Caveat - ["This allows me to go step by step, starting by focusing camera to what I want that be in perfect focus, and forget afterwards the focus issue so as to concentrate on light metering, DOF and speed."] Except of course this is not suitable if the Subject, or you, or both are moving.

I concur with values and advantages of using centre point only AF. I use Back Button Focus, the Centre Point AF, Lock Focus and then Recompose. I have occasionally used the outer AF points on EOS 1 Series cameras, but my staple cameras are 5D Series and I only use the centre point AF on those.

I don’t use Live View Manual Focussing all that much, firstly because not all my cameras have that facility and secondly because I don’t shot a lot of pictures which allow me the time to make Live View MF adjustments.

But yes, I concur definitively: Live View, when used (and focus adjustments are set up correctly), affords one very accurate focussing.

I concur that best practice is to AF on CONTRASTS, for accuracy.

*

--3- I shoot normally in P-mode. This grants a correct exposure and allows me to quickly adjust speed or lens aperture (depending on what I want to do: if looking for a given DOF or a given speed). Should I need to overexpose or underexpose, I can do it also quite fast with the rear wheel. So, the next step is to select the appropriate combination of aperture and speed (index finger) and to select any exposure compensation (thumb finger).

Firstly, I’ll pick up on the phrase that you use here “- I shoot normally in P-mode. This grants a correct exposure . . .”

… well using P mode does NOT grant you correct exposure - what it does, is it allows the camera to set what the camera thinks is the correct exposure and that will be based upon the METERING MODE that you have selected.

Now I am almost certain that you understand this point, because you go on to mention METERING MODES later in your post, but I just want to underscore, that for procedural integrity I firstly choose the METERING MODE to best suit the LIGHTING SCENARIO and the SUBJECT as appears the SCENE, before I choose the CAMERA MODE that I will use.

Now, my choice of Metering Mode is usually SPOT METERING, but that is mainly because I usually shoot PORTRAITURE of some sort and I usually meter OFF SKIN TONES.

However, when I am shooting landscape or interior scenes and I am using the camera’s TTL Metering, I usually use EVALUATIVE METERING MODE.

(so hopefully you will understand by these two examples, how I choose the Metering Mode to suit the SUBJECT as it appears in the SCENE, before I choose what Camera Mode, I will use to make the shot)

I think that it is important that one understands the Metering Modes and how they all work.

Because there is little detailed information on each Metering Mode this learning has to come from the experience of trial and error, which is probably a good thing because with a modicum of effort one can become quite intuitive about which metering mode will be the most useful as a guide to the exposure that will be best to use for any given situation.

*

Anyway, back to your protocols and more comments about P Mode:

I use M Mode most of the time. I use P Mode the second most often, (then Av Mode, then Tv Mode).

In my opinion P Mode is a very underutilized and is exceptionally misunderstood as a very useful semi-automatic Camera Mode. On many forums, ‘P Mode’ is lambasted and those using P Mode are often criticised out of hand – I find this most interesting, especially when the critics usually just advocate using another of the Semi Automatic modes (i.e. Tv or Av).

What you have selected is “Program Shift” - which (as you described) allows many combinations of Aperture and Shutter Speed to be selected by the “Main Dial” (index finger) and also EXPOSURE COMPENSATION to be managed by the “Quick Control Dial” or “QCD” (Thumb).

TWO important points for your consideration:

1. If you use EXPOSURE COMPENSATION when Program Shift is activated (and you have used Program shift to set a desired Av and Tv combination), note that EXPOSURE COMPENSATION might alter: Aperture - OR – Shutter Speed – OR – BOTH Aperture and Shutter Speed, depending upon the shooting scenario. You kind-of implied that you already know this as fact - but is important to mention, anyway.

2. You mention that you use your index finger for Program Shift, but you do not mention what finger you use for the Shutter release?

If you are seeking “in order to shoot as fast as possible while retaining the control of what I'm doing” then you will use the MIDDLE FINGER on the Shutter Release.

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-4- I use normally evaluative metering, and only under some particular circumstances, spot metering (back lit targets, etc...). I do not really grasp the real utility of the other metering methods available in the camera.
I aim at the point that I want to select for light metering, I half shoot, I recompose and finally I take the picture.
The complete process is quite fast once you are used to it.

On a 6D you have four Meter Modes available to you.

I consider the PARTIAL MODE and the SPOT MODE very similar, except that the Partial Mode is a ‘bigger’ spot (see your user manual as it will provide the approximate differences).

I sometimes use PARTIAL MODE if I require a bigger area for the ‘spot’ reading. As one example and as I mentioned I usually meter off skin tones – if I am very close to the SUBJECT (4 or 5 feet away) I might quickly switch to PARTIAL METERING to make a meter reading from the face because if I used SPOT METERING the total AREA of the face that the meter would be taking into account would be a relatively small area of the face itself and not a true indicative of the average skin tone.

I rarely use CENTRE WEIGHTED AVERAGE Metering Mode, but I do think that it is a useful exercise to play with it and to note how it seems to work.

I have found CWA quite useful for scenes which have either a natural vignette or bright annulus which would otherwise distort the reading of EVALUATIVE METERING. For example this scene here with a natural vignette:



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Also, as a side note, many scenes and shooting scenarios allow one the option of shooting an EXPOSURE BRACKET.

If the shot allows time for it and if I am unsure of the Camera’s TTL Metering capacity (or if I unsure of my judgement on any particular shot) I will shoot an Exposure Bracket, typically: ±⅔ STOP.

Note well that: choosing to use an Exposure Bracket can be the "best way to shoot as fast as possible whilst still keeping control".

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-5- I shot always in RAW. I do not need, so, all the myriad of adjustments that are possible and that make sense only for JPEGs (picture style...) because I adjust everything when post-processing (why these adjustments are not greyed-out when selecting RAW shooting when configuring the camera?)

As already mentioned (post #5), the JPEG Picture Styles selected will affect the Histogram and the Highlight Blinkies. This is a most important concept to understand for those who put credence and use in the Histogram and/or the Highlight Blinkies as one can set up the Picture Styles to suit fine tune both for very accurate CHIMPING.

I neither use the Histogram nor the Highlight Blinkies very often – the Histogram almost never – but I do capture raw + JPEG (L) and I sometimes use the jpeg file, usually SOOC (Straight Out Of Camera).

I do have various Picture Styles preset, and these presets reflect the typical shooting scenarios that I find myself within so that I can use the JPEGS SOOC. My main four shooting scenarios are:
Indoor Available Light TV Lighting Set;
Indoor House Available Light (Incandescent);
Outdoor Sunlight;
Outdoor Sunlight Flash as Fill.
I have a fifth but it would never ever use either the Histogram or Blinkies and that is: Studio Flash.

So, even though I set up these JPEG Picture styles to suit the JPEG SOOC, I am cognisant of the effect that these Picture Style settings will have on the histogram and (especially) the Highlight Blinkies.

For a practical example I know that I can recover about ⅔STOP from my 5DMkII and I know that this recovery limit will be just not yet be reached (but very close to it) if I have ‘Blinkies’ just beginning to show when I have the Picture Styles set to: ’Outdoor Sunlight’ or ‘Outdoor Sunlight Flash as Fill’

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-6- ISO speed setting I use is in AUTO mode from 100 to 3200. On the one hand, should I need to increase ISO beyond 3200, I want to be aware of the need of doing it, but on the other hand I don't want to have to adjust ISO manually in each shot (because it takes time). I consider that I can rely on automatic camera ISO selection for this (manual ISO selection being, so INMHO, not needed, if limiting the upper ISO value). In most cases grain at 3200 is acceptable to me.

Frankly, Auto ISO – in combination with- P Mode, does not make sense to me at all - the only circumstance I can think of is if one is shooting under a great pressure of time – AND – in rapidly varying LIGHTING CONDITIONS and then it would be likely that Av or Tv Mode (or even M Mode) would be a superior choice.

Also, realistically when would that be? When would it be "almost impossible to choose an ISO that will give me a reasonable RANGE of Shutter Speeds and Apertures" – because - "I am simply shooting way too fast and the lighting is changing so quickly and all the time between shots from EV 4 to EV 16 so I "NEED" ISO 100 to 3200 at my disposal automatically".

I think that it is important to understand that P Mode works on an algorithm which is basically biased toward a faster shutter speed to alleviate camera blur. The point is I think that you need to consider that when initiating AUTO ISO you are giving the camera free reign over the RANGE of Av and Tv that it can select when in P Mode. In this case, I think that is counter-productive and whether or not one is accepting of the “grain” at ISO3200 that doesn’t really figure in that particular rationale.

However, I do understand that engaging Auto ISO (with a limiter) brings P Mode one step closer to FULL AUTOMATIC and I understand that some might like to shoot that way.

I am just not so sure that it is the best option available as doing so seems to certainly devalue the initial choice of using P Mode: however I would be interested to contemplate a counter-argument on this particular point.

I have pondered this particular shooting rationale for some time (i.e. P Mode + AUTO ISO) and whether or not there is any situation where it would be the best choice (as opposed to another choice) and I would like to know of shooting scenarios where folk would consider P Mode + AUTO ISO a combination that would be the most appropriate.

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-7- All the adjustments are made through the view finder. I never use the rear display.

Sound technique – as far as that technique itself goes.
But do you have the other eye open? It is often very important to have visual input about what is happening outside the viewfinder.

WW

[AB26]

Hi Joan,
Your workflow is up to you to decide what to do and how to do it. There is no right nor wrong. Getting the shots is most important, even if you shoot in full Auto mode.

All the different settings and adjustments in the menu’s of the camera are simply there to allow the Photographer more freedom to be creative in “capturing images” rather than “creating photographs”. If you like spending more time in front of the computer doing PP it is fine.

My workflow might be completely different from yours but that does not mean I have a better workflow than you’ve got, it is just different. The reason for this might be because I hate sitting in front of a computer trying to “fix” images in PP. (I am pretty useless with image manipulating software and I have no idea how to work in layers. ) Therefore I am obsessed with getting it as right as possible, in camera. No matter if I shoot Jpeg or RAW, my workflow stays the same.

Photography is a lot like playing golf, the more clubs you can use the easier it is to get to the green.

[DanK]

Use what works for you.

I can't recall the last time I used P mode--never on my last two cameras--and I have never used auto ISO, although now that I have a body that can handle a wide range of ISOs, I think I may occasionally try it. I use M much of the time, but if I want some automatic control, I pick Av or Tv depending on whether I need to worry about DOF or motion blur.

I relied on center -point only with my 50D, and I would with a 6D, but with my 5D3 I often use an off-center cross point rather than focus and recompose.

Like you, I generally use back-button focusing.

However, this is just what works for me.