Extention tubes

[Mark von Kanel]

I want to try and get really close so im thinking of getting some extension tubes do you have any recommendations for brand , length etc? i will strat to do some research but no doubt you guys will already know what will take me hours of reading and guess work to find out!

[Glenn NK]

I've been using a set of Kenko tubes on both my Canon bodies since 2007. They come in Nikon variety also and likely others I'm not aware of.

As for length, the Kenko tubes come in a set of three (12mm, 20mm, 36mm) and can be use singly or in any combination.

The easiest method is trial and error.

Incidentally, the Kenko set costs less than one Canon tube.

Glenn

[DanK]

I agree with Glenn. I have used a set of Kenkos for 6 years or so. They are solidly built, enough so that I have no concerns stacking all three.

[William W]

I concur.

I use and recommend the already mentioned Kenko SET OF THREE for my DSLRs. I have Canon DSLRs. I concur that they are solidly built and I do stack three sometimes with no concerns.

Also (importantly) the internal light baffles are very good - contrary to some comments that you may read; tubes are NOT just air holes - the internal bits are important.

Another important feature is to get tubes with electric connections so the lens and camera are in communication - some cheaper tubes do not have this feature.

Also the bayonet mount locking feature on tubes is important to consider – especially if the camera is looking down the lens mount locking cam/pin needs to be locked in tight: this is not so on some cheaper models, but both Kenko are good to go in this regard.

I believe that you use Nikon and I would assume that the Kenko Nikon Tubes would be built to the same standards as the Canon set that I use.

Recommendations for length to use would require information about the lens(es) and camera(s) that you intend using and the magnification that you require: but the Kenko set of three is a most versatile set of lengths for both APS-C and 135 Format DSLRs for most general work using a basic lens cache.


WW

[Geoff F]

One thing to consider, Mark, is that tubes enable you to move closer to the subject but don't add anything in the way of magnification themselves. So that is fine if you are able to get closer, and without scaring away something like a nervous live insect.

In which case, I prefer to use a 1.4x converter instead, and shoot from a safe distance. I rarely use tubes now, but when I started macro photography with a 70-300 relatively close focusing zoom they really did make a difference. They took me from a minimum distance of 4 ft to a little less than 3 ft.

The Kenko tubes are popular, but also check to see if there is anything from your lens manufacturer at a sensible price. There are much cheaper alternatives but many are of poor quality and can lack the electrical contacts so you lose auto focus.

Tubes may darken an image slightly but that is easy to overcome.

[Stagecoach]

Mark, +1 to the Kenkos, I have used them for years.

With the three tubes, giving max extension of 68mm you will get almost 2:1 magnification on the 105mm on a crop sensor. This equates to being able to fill the frame width with 13mm wide subject on a 24.6mm width sensor. Things will be less of course for full frame.

There is much talk about intermittent connections on these especially when using all three with a heavy lens such as the 105VR. I have suffered this problem at times and now if using them with the tripod mount the rig on a cheapo focus rail where I am able to then support between the lens and rail (I use a short pencil). Also important if you are going to add the SR200s to he rig plus diffusers...........

Grahame

[chauncey]

Grahame brings up a valid point in that using all three tubes can lead to unsupported weight
and a tipsy tripod.
My setup took a tumble...busted the tubes, lens, and camera. Bought this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[terrib]

Can't add anything to what others have already posted except another vote for the Kenko tubes. They've provided me a happy alternative to the cost of an actual macro lens.

[Mark von Kanel]

Grahame brings up a valid point in that using all three tubes can lead to unsupported weight
and a tipsy tripod.
My setup took a tumble...busted the tubes, lens, and camera. Bought this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

can you post a pic of your setup with this support in action please?

[Mark von Kanel]

can you post a pic of your setup with this support in action please?

sussed how it works no need for image thanks.

[Stagecoach]

sussed how it works no need for image thanks.

Hi Mark, was not sure if you wanted the image of mine or Chauncey's setup. I have never had a problem with tripod instability I use the rail purely to remove the loading on the tube/camera bayonets. The rail is also very useful for physically moving the camera when you get to the limit of movement on the lens barrel, rather than moving the tripod or subject at times.

[IzzieK]

Love to see your set-up, Grahame...am curious...
even Chauncey's....
this post is just getting interesting for me...Thanks...

Hi Mark, was not sure if you wanted the image of mine or Chauncey's setup. I have never had a problem with tripod instability I use the rail purely to remove the loading on the tube/camera bayonets. The rail is also very useful for physically moving the camera when you get to the limit of movement on the lens barrel, rather than moving the tripod or subject at times.

[chauncey]

Chauncey doesn't have his gear back yet.

[DanK]

In years of using Kenko tubes, I have had only one instance of an electrical connection problem, and I don't think the problem was the tube. I was using a 100mm macro lens, a 12 mm tube, and a 1.4x converter, in that order. (Canon's extenders won't fit their 100mm macro lenses without a spacer.) I think the problem was actually that the converter was not seated properly, because all I had to do is twist the converter once, and everyone worked fine from then on. However, I use the Canon 100mm L, which is quite light, which may help account for the fact that I haven't had problems.

Support becomes a problem because of the additional length. In field work, it is a problem anyway, because you often have an off-balance flash near the front of the lens. This is a fairly typical rig for my bug hunting, with a 100mm lens and a 36mm tube. Other than the fact that I now sometimes use a larger diffuser, this is what I most often use.



This puts a lot weight forward. In addition, if you use the kind of home-made bracket I use:



the plate mount on the camera body is taken up by the flash bracket. Both factors suggest using tripod a ring, which you will see in the top photo. You can mount it either forwards or backwards, to get good balance. With that done, I find balance is OK. I never use a rail, but in indoor work, I do use a geared tripod head to get fine control over movement.

[rpcrowe]

IMO, one thing to avoid is buying the el-cheapo extension tubes which have no electrical connection between the camera and the lens. These are almost impossible to use efficiently because you cannot stop down adequately.

[Mark von Kanel]

Dan i could kiss you!! al the problems ive had lighting my bee shots and i had all the gear to make it "simples " id been useing sb900's on stands but it was a real pain to set up, my lens mounted sb200's didnt have enough grunt camera mounted 900 gave bad light bracket mounted off cam single 900 = bad light BUT when i saw your rig i realised i often use a duel flash bracket system on my underwater rig!! Just bolt it to my D800 and away i go! Thanks!!

[Mark von Kanel]

my new light set up inspired by dan, the only problem so far is that i cant reach the af button for back button focusing but no drama ill alter the set up when i get time. time to stop playing with kit and get out there and take some pictures!

[Stagecoach]

my new light set up inspired by dan, the only problem so far is that i cant reach the af button for back button focusing but no drama ill alter the set up when i get time. time to stop playing with kit and get out there and take some pictures!

Good one Mark, does it come with stabilisers, seriously, all you need now are a couple of these diffuser boxes for bug work.



Grahame

[DanK]

my new light set up inspired by dan, the only problem so far is that i cant reach the af button for back button focusing but no drama ill alter the set up when i get time. time to stop playing with kit and get out there and take some pictures!

Mark,

I have a few suggestions. One is that as Grahame says, you need diffusing. If you don't want to make something large, you can make do by getting Sto-fens (I think around $15 in the US), wrapping aluminum foil around the sides, covering it with a couple of layers of paper towel, and holding the whole thing together with a rubber band. that is what I often use, although larger diffusers are better. I am currently reworking a coke can diffuser (which you can find by googling).

A second is that you will want your light sources close to the front of the lens, not so far away.

Third, you are going to have a heck of a job balancing this unless you are a lot steadier than I am. Even with my rig, which is a single flash held close to the camera, I find it difficult. I often use a monopod with a tilt head to help. Tilt heads rotate in only one plane. You have to set it to allow you to rotate the camera lens up and down.

Dan

[Mark von Kanel]

Hi Dan / Grahame, thanks for the advice and ill implement when i get home, because i wasnt attempting true macro the distance between the flashes was set to illuminate a whole bee frame had i been doing macro id have use the sb 200s attached to the lens, as i wasnt that close i could use auto focus and so hold the grips on either side, when i was on scean doing the shoot i did think a mono pod would help but had no way of attaching it to my rig, another improvement for next time.

Diffusion was a problem but i managed to get acceptable results. using the diffuser that came with the flashes. Grahame wher did you get those diffuser panels?